Reduced loads for fun, and economy ~ Low recoil, low cost, more shooting! 

I too also appreciate the time and effort that you have expenced to share with us. You're a true statesman of the firearm community!

Yawn zzz

Absolutely, that's why I'm here.

Robert Page Robert, thank you for your kind words, that are greatly appreciated. Indeed, one of my greatest pastimes has been to sit and share an evening with someone about shooting. Much of my inspiration in doing these videos is to bring that experience to others who have never had that pleasure. Thank you for sharing time with me.

Robert Page try to set up a Skype!

Kenneth G Maiden jii

I'm in delco

Frank Corio Cutting sod around my yard right now so I can get my bark mulch down, but will be working on that. Thanks.

L Krueger Trail Boss was developed specifically for reduced power loads with lead bullets- and is popular in cowboy action shooting. It is not very dense, and 5 pounds come in the same size jug that 8 pounds usually comes in. Nice that it fills the case at lower charges, for more uniform ignition, and to make a double charge obvious. I have found, however, Trail Boss is susceptible to static cling. If you start seeing variation from your powder measure, and flakes clinging to the side of the hopper- you might wipe the measure out with a dryer sheet.

Old A , Missouri bullet is having big success with there powder coated bullets and reasonable cost . Thanks be

JSmunitions I run 3.7 and 125 cast swc in 357 mag, which works well. Trail Boss seems to be particularly susceptible to static cling, especially in low humidity. You might see one throw from a powder measure a grain light, and the next one a grain heavy. Not saying that would be your squib, but if you see powder clinging to the side of the powder hopper, and an unusual degree of variation from your powder measure, try wiping the inside of the hopper and drum with a dryer sheet.

O man , he was referring to chamber area and barrel tube . The powder is an oxygen bearing material and the two do not mix well at all , but rapid firing Simi autos need a small amount of lube on load bearing surface's .

ChuckRich Wash it with Dawn dish detergent without rinsing, and dry it, which will eliminate static cling. Do that for funnels and your powder pan too. That's an old trick I learned many years ago. No, there's no transfer.

Thank you for your prompt and helpful response.

Working at both Dow and DuPont where these highly refined compounds are produced I remember it is important and you make a good point remembering it's where in the process static charges could be generated . In other words , electronics - of cores magnetics play a part in anything so highly refined over such a broad area . Use of Brass /glass /Stainless Steel , any non furious materials should be considered when working with explosives and any sensitive process involving static charges even down to relative humidity can come into play in an accident . I say grounding during the process is vital , thank you for bringing it to our attention . Thanks be

Louis Yong I recommend that you have your headspace checked by a gunsmith. He should charge you no more than ten bucks, and he can do it in ten seconds, if he has slow reflexes. The 30-30 headspaces on the rim. Excess headspace is a serious issue and can absolutely mean that a rifle is severely weakened or damaged. However, backed out primers can also be caused by excessively weak powder charges that do not rebound the case back against the bolt face and reseat the primer. No matter what, have your gun checked, or you might get a nasty surprise. It's not at all uncommon for old guns to have been subjected to stress and weakening over so many years.

GunBlue490 thank you Sir. It's great to know that it won't be expensive for the gunsmith to diagnose the problem. That's what I'll do.

I neglected you? Truly? Oh, pity sakes. The next time I do a video, I'll be sure to consult you.

@@GunBlue490 You have a large body of highly informative and useful instruction and perspectives. I certainly don't feel "neglected" - just suggesting the video could be more complete, and hence more useful to your wide audience. From my perspective, yours is a glass 99.9% full, and I'm just trying to add a little from my little corner of experience. I am a faithful subscriber, and wish you and yours the greatest success, and health through these trying times.

H4985 is IMR4895 now same made all by Hodgdon

Wireman134 my manuals still show different loads for the IMR

The old H-4895 is different from the current H-4895 as well. The differences in any powder from lot to lot are often as much or greater than any difference you are likely to see between IMR and H versions of 4895. I have used both interchangeably for many, many years in a variety of cartridges and never had a whisper of a problem. I will concede, however, that I should have stated that one start at minimum and work up with ANY powder, and even with new lots of the same powder. Sierra bullets say go for it, you can interchange data

@@Wireman134 Hodgdon VERY SPECIFICALLY states H4895. They DID NOT apply this to IMR 4895.

oscar rodriguez The SR1911 has standard 1911 construction, which never had a full length rod. I demonstrated it in the takedown video. Standard 1911s work just fine and can have great accuracy without a full length rod.

IMR PB is same burn rate but less bulk.

Matthys J Uys I would not. Assembled ammo is made to have very uniform dimensions that could potentially be changed with excessive handing, especially with the added weight and leverage of the bullet and powder. It would not harm the ammo in any way, which is intended to work through rifle actions, but it cannot help it keep straight either. I see no point whatsoever in polishing loaded ammo, except perhaps with a cloth.

GunBlue490 thank you so much your advice is greatly appreciated.

Tumbling loaded ammo is a bad idea for another reason as well, if we tumble it we are also tumbling the powder, breaking it down in various ways. What do you think would happen if you took a slow burning powder and ground it down into smaller and smaller pieces, effecting the total surface area, also think about the coatings or additives that area added to stabilize the powder, what happens if we disturbed that? Boom.ask me what happened to a friend of my Grandpa, that had loaded some standard pressure 357 loads that had fancy self defense bullets and never fired the second box. Just kept it in his truck (old Dodge) for 15 years or so because they were only fancy self defense (expensive) he forgot he even had them there for long time. One day, realizing the foolishness of keeping "precious" never to be used except in case of emergency. He went to shoot them up.........Boom. He asked my grandpa (who was hanging out at The Gift House,what he thought might have happened. Grandpa pulled a bullet off one of them with a pair of pliers, dumped out the powder on a piece of paper, then used a spoon to get a sample from an unopened can, placed it next too it. He explained that having that rattling around in his old dodge for so long had caused it to break down and not be the same. The friend just threw the box away as he walked past the end of the counter. The useless S&W revolver was never repaired.I think Brasso and a rag will give you a better, safer finished product, if your into that sort of thing.

J D I'm sorry, but though I know the specifics of many guns made, I simply do not attempt to keep up with the literally hundreds of guns and subtle variations of every maker and model. I can advise you to simply do as I would do before considering any purchase and investigate the manufacturer's own specifications, which most manufactures post on line. It's important to understand that Ruger's SR1911 firing pin design is not only the spring, but also the titanium pin itself, in combination, which, together, prevents unwanted strikes. I'm sure Rock Island even has a technicians line as part of customer service that you can call.

GunBlue490 thank you for your knowledge!

Adam Jacob Well, powder and bullet makers approach the same issue from different directions, which can expectedly yield varied results. Sometimes, greatly varied. The bullet maker deals with two constants; his bullets, and a particular powder. The powder maker deals with one of the two; his powder, that must be assigned to the gross variable of any bullet maker (except when he lists specifics). Also, they can easily be testing powders and primers from different brands and lots, and may easily be using guns with varied bullet jump to the rifling. The answer is simply to understand that either sources are valid for their test conditions, but neither are valid for your gun until you work up loads according to standard practice. Your gun will likely fall into the data given by one of the two, or perhaps not. I unfortunately see on line where many folks take a page of loading data and presume that the top charge is safe for shooting in their gun, when the manuals all clearly state that such is not the correct approach, and they earn that maximum charges must be carefully approached according to practices that every handloader must abide. There is also a presumption that one book's data is superior because it lists faster loads, which is absurd. A gun can only shoot the velocity that is built into it when using safe loads, and there is no such thing as better data. Test guns all employ varied barrel lengths, which are often different from the other lab, and are almost always longer than factory guns. So, to answer your question, find the load that is at least five percent below the lower of the two sources, and work up in increments approaching the maximum listed. You may or may not get to the stronger data, but more importantly, you should be seeking accuracy, not a velocity. 20 feet per second is only worth about five yards of downrange performance, at best.

As a new reloader, thank you for your advice and for sharing your knowledge. Cheers.

No, but the burning rate is positioned at the slow end of the powders generally used with good results. It's slightly faster than Varget and H4895 and IMR4895, and slower than Winchester 748. It's the same rate as H335, which generally works very well with that bullet weight. I don't get too hung up on powders. They can all work well. Try CFE223 with that bullet, which has been accurate in three rifles of mine, and it's made for that bullet and cartridge, giving the top velocities for military use.

dbelex I refer you to a trusted loading manual such as Lyman's or Lee for cast bullet data. I stand by my firm warning to everyone that only loads from published, tested sources be used. I have no control over anyone's use of information, so I make no recommendations. You will find many good loads in those books that are safe and accurate.

Since those old publications, much has been learned about safe powder density in rifle cartridges. Red Dot is NOT a safe powder to use in such a massive case, regardless of amount, and can easily result in detonation, and your Unique load is nothing near its current Lyman listing. Please obtain a current Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook before proceeding.

@@GunBlue490 I actually only have a new manual but the limited data made me go search for a digital copy of the old 1. I have the lee mold listed but also have a lyman mold and needed data for it because lyman no longer list it. That is how I found that data, I have not used it however it was in the works just looking for primers. I did however contact lyman about those loads being no longer listed asking why they were no longer listed. But have yet to get a response.

eqlzr2 what would you load into .38 special? My wife bought a Derringer and wants it not to hurt!

Number 1: If she doesn't want it to hurt, my did she buy a .38 spl derringer? Plenty of derringers in .22 or .22 magnum that would work great. Number 2: Hodgdon has reload data for Trail Boss powder on their website. Please check there and follow their instructions to the letter. Thx!

Steve Always use the next greater weight bullet: 90 gr8. (Although, just between ye and me, 85 grain is close enuff that I use that data as well, no problems, use starting data and work up).

@@fjb4932 Thanks! I am glad I got the Hornady Bullet Puller! Otherwise I am looking at a lot of pounding with the kinetic puller tonight.

ed swede Yup, wow. The greatest problem is the limited bullet weights made for the caliber, which are all very heavy. Though I occasionally mention a particular load that I use, which are generally widely used, I simply cannot recommend load data. And copyright laws prevail with regard to reprinting stating published loads. However, I do recommend that you consult the Lyman Cast Bullet book, as described in my video. You can also contact any of the bullet and powder makers via phone or email, and they will be glad to lend advice, which may be based on direct experience. Try Hornady and Hodgdon, as I believe they helped create the round.

thank you much, quick ramble; since my first NRA magazine about 47 years ago I have been desiring a 375 HH just because., Finn Aagard and his writing got me so motivated I just had to have one. Sportsmansguide had the synthetic stock 375 ruger for a ridiculous 315(?) so guess who ordered one!. Thanks again for the help.

found a table for recoil on line, should be about 56 lbs if no steel mounts rings and scope, the superformance (cheapest I could get my hands on) should ring my bells a little,LOL

Hodgon has a simple formula for reduced loads with trail boss.

Trail boss pdf has a load for various rifles 7mm rem mag included.

Rumrunner 1 It's a 45 year old RCBS Uniflo using the small rifle drum, and measures precisely, with great consistency.

Be very cautious with that load. Such small charges are easily doubled, with very bad results. Autoloader guns require specific charges of specific powders in specific burning rates in order to cycle.

@@GunBlue490 been reloading for 25 years so I am some what experienced

Jim Dent The answer to the matter is because Hornady lead bullets are swaged lead cut from relatively soft wire, and are not cast of a hard alloy. For that reason, velocities are limited to 950 feet per second, while cast bullets made from harder alloys that can be driven at jacketed velocities. Copper bullets are also swaged, but have the protection of the plating that allows higher velocities. I have used many copper plated bullets and have found lead bullet data works fine. With few exceptions being the slowest burning pistol powders such as H110 and Win. 296, pistol powders ignite easily and don't have issues with detonation. However, excessively reduced loads can result in sticking a bullet in the barrel, which is a very dangerous situation if another shot follows. You may follow either lead or jacketed bullet data. Plated bullets should not be roll crimped at all, though you can use a light taper crimp.

Thanks GunBlue you are a plethora of information.

Nope. My Brittany is a Mainer though.

Jim Allen Please watch my rifling twist video, for starters. Let me state first of all that twist technology was invented and perfected when it was first cut into barrels in the 19th Century with black powder muzzle loaders. On line calculators use facts developed long ago by our great great grandfathers; not the other way around. It's impossible for me to assess your shooting conditions, but I can assure you that 55 grain lead core bullets are routinely stabilized with 14 inch twist, even at 222 Remington velocities, and 12 inch twist is more than sufficient, even with long military boat tail profiles, which was the original M16 configuration for lead core jacketed bullets in the Vietnam era. Even the original prototype used 14 inch just fine, as it does with bolt action varmint rifles in that caliber, but was increased in anticipation of using less dense, longer bullets such as tracers. Stories that twist was quickened due to lack of stability in thin arctic air is laughable, because cold air is denser and favors lift, which any pilot knows, and stability is a gyroscopic matter that has nothing to do with air density. The use of non lead bullets is a game changer, whether steel core military penetrators or solid copper. Weight is NOT the issue. Twist is related to LENGTH. Accuracy issues are very often blamed on twist and stability, which is very often incorrectly placed blame. Many factors can affect accuracy, but 12 inch twists will always stabilize standard lead core 55 grain bullets at 223 velocities, and your Handi rifle should easily stabilize 60 grain or better, as long as they are lead core. Unless you are piling on demands with long VLD, steel core, or solid lengths in combination with sluggish, short 16 inch barrels, stability is not your problem. Again, watch my rifling twist video.

Jack Powell Cast bullet loads generally work best with heavier bullets, because the short ones have very little bearing surface in the shallow rifling and quick twist that is designed for higher speed counterparts. Before you give up, try 170 grain cast bullets, which are typically very accurate with reduced 30-30 loads. My 32 Special shoots 175 grain bullets at almost any velocity quite nicely, and it's the same case, necked up. Also, cast bullets with long bearing surfaces and blunter shapes work better. It's a different world with cast, and the game changes.

30-30's usually have a 1:12 twist bore and will stabilize cast lead bullets from personal experience of 90 grs. to 200 grs. without issue. The 1:12 twist also allow you to shoot 170 gr. cast lead of the proper dia. an BHN at jacketed bullet velocity with excellent accuracy because the 1:12 twist keep the bullet within the RPM threshold while the same cartridge with a 1:10 twist bore accuracy will drop off at around 1900 fps. I generally throttle mine back to around 1800 to 1900 fps. All my 30 cal. US rifles do best with bullet sized to .311"

Good point Tim , powder burn rates play into it as much as bullet weight addressing a particular twist .

Using bullets of the correct alloy together with gas checks on their base and staying within the correct velocity for cast bullets will prevent leading of any kind. Of course, jacketed bullets may be used at reduced velocities, too. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook provides detailed information on reduced loads and bullet alloys for all rifles and handguns.

Those are not particularly low pressures. The .222 Remington runs at significantly lower standard pressures down in the 40's, and achieves velocities that are not far behind the 223. In fact, a 22 inch .222 can easily chronograph higher velocity than a .223 with a 16 inch barrel. The only concern is when pressures drop below the operating parameters of auto-loading rifles that can cause various issues such as insufficient bolt travel, poor ejection, and failures to eject and feed. If your rifle is operating fine, or if you are using a manually operated rifle, it's a non-issue, and you'll reap the rewards of longer case life, and longer barrel life. Generally speaking, pressures have nothing in common with velocity. One powder operating at top pressure can have lower velocity than another powder that is cruising at significantly lower pressures. It's easily seen by just looking at the relationships of velocities and pressures in any loading page. My only suggestion if you are fond of reduced pressure loads and if you are using them with an auto-loading rifle, reliability will vary with different powders due to burning rate timing. For instance, quicker powders such as H322 and IMR-4198 can sometimes cause operation issues even at standard pressures, though their accuracy may be top drawer, because they burn quicker than the pressure timing that the gun was designed for. Hope that helps.

That's correct. You cannot simply charge below the recommended book level with powders listed because pressures will be insufficient to expand the brass. With some powders, it can even cause dangerous detonation or hangfires. Reduced loads that are below the stated loads require special quicker burning powders designed for that purpose, which are listed in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. They can be used with either cast lead alloy or jacketed bullets. Such powders have designations as SR4759, SR7625, IMR4227, IMR4198, N-130, RX7, 5744, 2400, Unique, PB, Trail Boss, and certain shotgun powders like Blue Dot, Green Dot, and Red Dot. With such quick burning powders, adherence to the listed loads is absolutely vital. Most of these powders can be easily overcharged and will dismantle a gun. Another challenge that reduced loads present is that the trajectories are sometimes lower than the factory sight adjustment range, which requires a lower front sight, or a higher rear one.

Hodgon has a PDF (google or duck duck) for reduced loads of many calibers and powder

The Yonderosa Yes, 22 rimfire bullets are cast, and some are swaged from wire.

The point being Microgroove barrels do shoot cast bullets very well. Those who perpetuate that myth lack experience and/or expertise shooting cast in Marlin Microgroove barrels. Correctly size the bullet to the bore and good thing happen. Marlins typically run a little big. 30 caliber rifles generally do best with .311" cast bullets. 44 caliber seem to like .431"... etc. Microgroove barrels are also easier to clean.

@@Hapharzardly- I've shot .312 cast at subsonic velocities through my microgroove 336 with good success.