Nicely done. My internal master spinner almost cried when you cut the chunks off the front 'maiden' and drilled that hole though it. Replacing the 'footman' (the vertical piece that attaches the wheel to the treadle will certainly help make the wheel turn in a more stable manner. My only advice is to watch those little grooves in the nails you used for the hook replacements. If the yarn you are spinning gets snagged on those little grooves it could make for very fuzzy and unsatisfying yarn. If you find that happening, you could go over the grooves with a few coats of clear nail polish to smooth them out and stop the fibre from snagging. Those grooves could be especially troublesome if you are spinning flax or silk. I love the black colour of your wheel. In a dark candle lit cottage in the evening, the black of the wheel would help the white of the yarn be more visible. I love spinning white fibre on my dark wheel. I can hardly wait to see you spin on that lovely wheel! Thanks for sharing your conservation work with us!
Thanks very much a very good tip using some nail varnish, I will watch out for snagging and hope the coat of black paint is sufficient, but thanks very much. I was reluctant to modify the maiden and I asked around a bit before doing it, none of us could see why the axle was not level.....if I missed something, it would be very good to know. Thanks again. Rgds Harry
I have an antique wheel I bought a long time ago. Like you, I don't (yet) know how to spin. Like yours, mine needs some repairs. I just got it out of storage, so I'llut it together and assess it now I know a little more. Thanks!
It's not roving its top 2 different types of prep roving is where the fibers are all over the place and top is where the fibers all go the same direction. Thank you for this video it was very Informative x
Hi Harry, love your videos. I am in the process to restore a spinning wheel. I can’t decide whether if it has ever been an ornement or an actual , maybe hand made spinning wheel. I would love to customise to my tast. If I could send you video, I would love your on-site to bring it to working wheel. Woul you help. I am a fixer. I bought it £40 and would love to get it going. I identified 10 problems and solved 6 so far.
Harry - the more I watch both videos, the more I think that for whatever reasons this wasn't built as a functional wheel but more a decorative piece.....it's certainly a fantastic job you have done and a lovely piece now 👍🏼 well done.
I'm really enjoying watching you with this project. Just a thought...if you continue to experience excessive wear with the wood parts, you could consider using nylon or delrin bushings. They will wear much longer than wood (and are soft enough to be worked with the tools that you have--wood lathe, drill, chisels, etc.)
Harry, where the footman (drive rod) meets the crank, if you use a keyhole slot with the large hole at the bottom it will make disasembly easier. All of my wife's wheels have this. Nice work on the refurbe. P.S. Frances recommend "Your Handspinning" by Elsie Davenport, as a good source to start you on your learning curve. Available on eBay at the moment.
The bobbins are supposed to rattle woodily, Harry. That is one of the lovely natural sounds of spinning. It doesn't matter about the hole being a bit larger. Just make sure there is plenty of oil applied. The bobbin needs to be able to rotate freely. With the bobbins, there are two different sizes needed. The grooved part that the string runs in, must have a very specific diameter for spuinning, and a specific smaller diameter on the plying spool. There are always at least 2 spinning bobbins, and one plying bobbin. It has to do with the ratios of the bobbin to large wheel. The plying bobbin needs to be geared higher to pull the plied yarn in faster. Hard to explain, but this may give you some clues if you have problems later when using it. Remember to turn the wheel clockwise for spinning (produces a "Z-twist", and anticlockwise for plying the 2 threads together (gives an "S-twist".) Can't wait to see you having fun with this! Perhaps you will even go into production? Bucklehurst Spinning Wheels?
Thanks Ruby thats very helpful, while I knew about the different direction of rotation for plying I did not realise the smaller diameter pulley was needed...I can now see why some bobbins have both v pulley sizes on them...Thanks very much.
The usual professional repair from a craftsman such as yourself - very satisfying to watch ! One question - are you happy with the black finish of it, or would you have preferred a natural wood finish ? Mere cosmetics but your comments would be of interest ! Thanks !
Phil...I was not keen on the black finish at first, but I have sort of changed my mind a bit living with it as I think of it in some little Welsh cottage back in 1820 or whenever next to a sooty stove!
@@harryrogers You're all set now to make the dog a woolley overcoat for the January snows ! In Leominster we have the "Sheep Shed" store which sells spinning supplies - the town was a gateway for moving sheep from Wales to London - we have our own breed of sheep the Ryland - this project is therefore of particular interest ! Congratulations upon getting this far !
Enjoyed watching you bring that wheel back to life! I’m excited to see you spinning; I hope you decide to post a video of that. And are you getting back out to the farm any time soon? How’d the Bodgers get on with that gazebo shingle roof?
Nice work Harry... like always... you simply just do it all...mabey that's why I subbed you awhile back..lol.. the repairs were excellent... would like to see it all painted up though... I and I say we will... until the next one....thx
Hello again Harry! I am sure you would be interested in watching this video, of a 1970s Australian TV program where the Leyland Brothers visit a woodturner in Tasmania buy the name of Cecil Eyre. He was famous for making many beautiful spinning wheels from our wonderful native timbers. My mum, sister and I have long been the fortunate owners of several of these wheels. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hyxSkhBhFnc.html
As far as the spinning goes, you need to control your draft triangle, the space between the roving and the spun thread. Keep both hands on the wool and stretch to desired thinness before letting it into the triangle. The second factor is amount of twist you add. You can take out excessive twist later, but insufficient twist will result in broken threads. I never got the hang of wheels, I prefer the Navajo spindle.
