Reinventing Tubeless Valves: The Reserve Fillmore Review 

This is an example of something been an overcomplicated solution. It works, I might even buy them. But a Schrader valve is still a cheaper solution that works just aswell. There's also no particular reason you couldn't make an 80mm Schrader valve for deep wheels either. It's just a poorer standard presta won over

Tell me, please, which spokes (multicolored) are shown in this video?

You can buy a new tire for less than $50. Considering the cost of other perfectly effective tubeless valves, that have worked fine for numerous years, these should include AT LEAST 4 valves and spare seals for 50 FREAKIN DOLLARS! As a bike industry professional, (not a typical materialistic consumer) my chosen industry often ashames me! Horrible QC, Snake oil sales tactics and price gouging really pisses me off! But as always, there's a sucker born every minute and a conniving sales type to 'peddle' it! Consumers spend their own money freely! So be it. That is their decision and their responsibility. Not mine, a lowly blue collar mechanic. Schrader valve conversions are simple, effective and very affordable. That (and replacing cores regularly) solve ALL the problems these valves supposedly do. PLUS, schrader valves make tubeless set ups easier and quicker.

Or include the rest of the bike 😂🤣😂🤣

@@WIPEYOURLENZ Indeed, I made a similar comment elsewhere here. I can also set up two reliable tubeless tires for under $20 in parts using DIY methods. I can make it work on most any tire and rim, it doesn't need to be 'tubeless ready'. These valves are an obvious ripoff if anyone's in possession of a brain. But don't try to tell the fools who actually buy this kind of junk! The reality is that it's a consumer's money to spend as they see fit. That's their decision and responsibility. New bike 'technology' is simply job security for pro mechanics like myself! They put money in my pocket I'm busier than ever and often turn away work even as this riding season winds down! You know, one man's garbage is another man's treasure..... Ive gotten quite a few nice, perfectly functional old bikes for free or really cheap. They often sit forgotten for decades, gathering dust in a dark basement. A customer of mine just walked into my shop and handed me a vintage Italian custom road frame for nothing more than a favor. I gave him some nice old parts I got for free.

They come with a lifetime warranty and can contact them about lost caps. What more do you want?

@@Jocool0785 I'd like to sell my customers valves that don't cost $50. Again, Tires cost that much. You dont even 'need' valve caps! Haha, They are just tire valves. Then again, there's a sucker born every minute! There's plenty of valves on the market that work perfect for far less money. Ive done DIY tubeless setups for over 20 years, before Stan's existed. Ive never had many issues, nor one single flat in all that time. My valves include a rimstrip and cost less than $2 each. But I'll always take those sucker's money! That's the bright side for me. I sell junk like this every day because the suckers demand it. Ive already installed these, they're no different than anything else on the market. I first thought they were cool, especially when we can get 'em free. Then I saw the price! Then I knew what sort of product this is. It didn't take me one minute to figure out who the target consumers were!

So get tubes with removable cores. Tubeless valves mostly all have replaceable cores. You can get cores for free or they're pretty darn cheap. Certainly not $50. The COST OF A NEW TIRE! You can use schrader valves which don't have ANY such problems as well. This is probably the best way to go for most folks The Suckers born every minute buy $50 tubeless valves.

@@rollinrat4850 this is OK if you're addressing the airflow ONLY. but this suggestion is irrelevant to the advantage of going tubeless.

@@kalso69 Youre mistaken. Stan's makes tubeless schader valves. Easily under $20. Google it. I can easily drill out a valve hole in a rim. It's not rocket science. I used to help build hardware for rockets, aircraft and other high reliability projects too. Enterprising DIYers like myself often make our own junk. I build wheels, braze frames and fabricated a bunch of my own custom components. We do it to get exactly what we wanted. Bike industry QC is quite the joke. This is what you often get from Asian made garbage. I can prove it every day at work! Ive used split tube 'ghetto' tubeless set ups long before Stan's No Tubes ever existed! I've never had a pinch or puncture flat in over 20 years. My tire set ups are ultra reliable. I go on week long bike packing trips into remote areas. There is no cell coverage. I'm on my own. Ghetto is the most reliable means to set up tubeless, believe it or not. It works on most any rims or tires as long as they're not high pressure, too narrow and fit together tight. They don't need to be 'tubeless ready'. I use lots of older non tubeless CX tires. I get lots of take off tires free. Tubeless tires do hold pressure better though. I've tried all sorts of tubeless set ups. I'm a pro shop mechanic, just for fun. I'm also a retired machinist and a QA mechanical inspector. Nobody's fooling me. I've experimented with tubeless set ups much longer than most folks. I saw the advantages right away. But I also still use tubular tires. The sort you glue in the rims, generally for racing. I can DIY almost anything I put my mind to. Bicycles are extremely simple mechanisms in the larger world of machinery. $50 tire valves are laughable. You can't even pump sealant thru these freakin valves! I've gladly sold and installed Reserve valves for customers. Even when I try to sell them something cheaper. These people are the 'know it all's'......the suckers born every minute! Selling overpriced junk like this to many suckers is as easy as taking candy from babies. That's not an exaggeration!

@@rollinrat4850 your initial suggestion was “go get tubes” so I thought it was not a tubeless setup. Now your last reply makes more sense. This will work for sure. 👍

@@kalso69 I meant valves with replaceable cores. My bad. Schraders have em too. For 'ghetto' tubeless. I use an inner tube two sizes smaller than the rim, stretch it over the rim, cut the tube all around. This forms a rim strip with an intact valve, then mount the tire on top of the rim strip. Rubber tire seals to rubber rimstrip, sealant contains latex for a perfect sealing scenario. If I can achieve a perfect tight fit, it seals do well no sealant is required except for flat prevention. I got a few set ups to hold pressure for 10 days and counting without any sealant! A ghetto set up is incredibly inexpensive. Far less than any tubeless system and it just as solid, yet more reliable. With practice, It requires just a bit more effort to install which is well worth the savings and the reliability in my POV.

For what it's worth there's no way that's not a standard size o-ring do you can get a bag of 20 for a few dollars at your local spare parts suppliers

@@chrthiel Pretty sure OP means fail at the most inopportune time (while out riding or away from home)....in which case you are sticking a tube in the tire.

But....we all carry spare presta cores already, don't we? Just carry some o'rings in your puncture repair kit. Seems easy enough.

$50?!?!? That's a really nice sushi lunch with lots of beer! Haha, just a little excessive.....My respect for Santa Cruz has lessened. But there's always a sucker born every minute. Probably should come with just a few spare o rings. They're not normal O rings you can buy at a hardware store either. They're more like seals, not o rings anyways. I installed a pair in a customer's wheels yesterday. They worked fine, but $50? I just sell this stuff! Haha. I repeat, THERE IS a sucker born every minute. Pretty much all new bike 'tech' and marketing bullshit IS job security, more service and more sales for pro mechanics just like me.

@@rollinrat4850 I agree its super expensive but I'm at the stage where I'll pay that for less frustration and effort.

I bet you will be at least 95% successful with these, enjoy!

They just launched 20 minutes ago.

You will be in your grave and then another 1000 years will pass and this industry will still be ripping the planet a new one.

Agreed, seems like carrying a spare core covers 99% of the issues. At a buck or so each I just can't see spending $50 a pop. If they catch on I am sure there will be knock offs in the $10-20 range before long.

I agree. Are they made in the USA? For that kind of premium it better be.

@@heyg7819 Besides wheelbuilding, they manufacture in Asia, like most everyone else. My riding buddy was head wheel builder at Santa Cruz, now he builds their show bikes, team bikes etc. Santa Cruz is one of the better bike companies, but these overpriced valves disappoint me. They work fine but $50?!?!?! Haha, there's a sucker born every minute!! Buyer beware: YOU WILL ALWAYS PAY for what you get, one way or another. Its entirely the consumer's decision and responsibility HOW they part with their money. Those of you who buy this stuff will never want to know what it really cost!

@@heyg7819 Made in Taiwan.

I use schraders on ghetto split tube set ups. Works great. LESS THAN $2 per tube! I haven't had a pinch or puncture flat in 20 years!

I drill out my rims and use Schrader tubeless valve stems. A pair on Amazon costs $10.

Just be careful drilling out your rims. Depending on the shape, it weakens some. Especially older narrow rims.

if you don't dare drill your rim, you can remove the valve core and put a presta to schrader adaptor on. cheap as chips.

@@The_Ultravisitor I didn’t realize there are actual converters, not adapters. very cool. Thanks for the tip!

It's called a schrader valve. They work great as long as your rims are wide enough.

@@rollinrat4850 iTs CallEd A sChrAdEr VaLve! Cool. I had no idea. Guess I’ll just go buy a pack of schrader stems genius.

@@ruffrydazz2032 Or you can pay $50 for this sort of genius! Haha! I know for a fact, a sucker is born every minute! The Bible also states: " A fool and his money are soon parted" These sorts of consumers literally put money in my pocket! Pretty much all new bike 'tech' is just job security and more sales for professional mechanics just like me! I know better than to waste money though. My mom and dad taught me that. I installed some of these valves for a customer yesterday. They worked fine but so do many other valves with just a little care. Change cores when you put in new sealant. Get a spoke, use the threaded end like a file to clean out your valve. Its really simple. Hell, for $50 I can get a new tire!

Long overdue indeed. Also, I’d like to add that the Schrader has a micro core just like the Presta. So, lower flow than the Fillmore and still clogs because there there’s nothing to seal of the valve stem inside the tire

Here’s a link to a video of the Italians setting them up with inserts. Gotta love the Italians! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-19JRcgQb4A4.html

Stan's makes schrader valves. Google it.

Chris king valves are cheaper and they have a valve core remover integrated.

@@The2808erik Yep they're lovely too - there wasn't much in it when I got the MucOffs, but they were in stock and also have a valve core remover in one of the caps (not both like the CK ones).

And when they ship then to the UK they would be £50 ! its always $ to £

@@arcoulant87 They are 45€ here

@@The2808erik way to much, give it a few years

🙄

Yep, directly in the valve or you could always just pour into your tire. it's not more prone to clogging because there is much more space than the Presta valve core, MUCH MORE!

Haha, I can buy a new tire for $50! My ghetto tubeless valve and rim strip (split tube)cost less than $2. My Foolish customers pay $60+ just for valves and tape. I use a split inner tube and Gorilla tape that cost about $9 per pair. I can make my own sealant or get it for free. I use my tires until theyre worn thin and just add sealant easily thru my valves (schraders are the best!) just put in a new core every time that I got for free from flat tubes. I haven't had a pinch or puncture flat in over 20 years! I ride and bikepack to places far from help. I demand reliability and was a high reliability manufacturing expert. I dig Reserve wheels. The only carbon wheel Id consider due to the warranty. But unfortunately SC is gouging dummies here. There's a sucker born every minute!!

Also airing up you tires after adding sealant would clear out any extra sealant.

Sealant will flow right through the Fillmore. No need to remove the core

I'd say so. The pressure in the tire will push the core of the valve outwards, thus closing it.

Correct, so essentially you could ride without the cap.

Same as presta - air pressure holds the valve closed

@@Dr.Schlitz true. You just screw the knob to close the system but it doesn't leak open👍

innovation is great when it actually adds value to the typical user, like this. however, bullshit like adding integrated cockpits to bikes that add almost no tangible benefit to the average rider other than being more 'aesthetic' are not.

Ive been using ghetto/ split tube tubeless for over 20 years. No pinch or puncture flats in all that time. I just use my tires until they wear out. Not one flat! A rimstrip/valve costs me under $2. Twenty five sets of tires last a long time. Hell, a decent tire costs me less than $50! But I wrench in a shop. I sell stuff like this all the time. There's a sucker born every minute. Haha!

We didn't test them with inserts, but I can't see why it would be a problem. The poppet is opened when a pump chuck is attached, so I don't think a foam insert would hold it back. And I also don't think there's any way it could engage the poppet, either.

Here’s a link to a video of the Italians setting them up with inserts. Gotta love the Italians! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-19JRcgQb4A4.html

@@Jocool0785 Hi watched all the way through - I don't speak Italian but they just talked about the insets and didn't use them, just showed setting up an elite wheel tubeless - thanks for the thought tho'.

They work with thread-on pumps too

But you don't need to turn the knurled nut with a Fillmore valve. There are not any. To inflate, simply open the cap completely and plug in your pump. To play with the pressure, just open the cap a little and push it in. To deflate completely, open the cap and push down on the rod. No knurled nut. This is what looks great with these valves. I want to try ;-)

@@atelierrouelibre6522 there is a nut - it is the one on the inner aspect of the rim, holding the valve tube snugly on the rim. I see it in the picture!

Yes, but with the fillmore, i don't see why the valve will rotate in the rim hole... You don't need to loosen something, if I understand well. Just the cap, and you don't need force for that. For me the problem with presta on tubeless, it's that when I want to play with the pressure, it so hard to open the little nut glued by sealant. If I insist, the core turn before I can open the nut valve. I need to take a core tool to hold the core while I loosen the nut of the stem. It's really boring. (Sorry for my strange english, I'm french)

@@atelierrouelibre6522 Your English is fine. Lots of Americans can't write English as well as you do! I'm often amazed by bad grammar in these comments! I'm also amazed my some of the grammar police in the comments. They're not much better! It sounds like you're either not tightening your valve core enough or overtightening the little knurled knob. Sometimes dried up sealant fouls the little knob like you've said. Always rotate your valve to near the ground and wait a few minutes to let the sealant drain out.Bouncing the wheels a little helps so sealant doesn't spew out when you let out some air. The only time I struggle with this is when using overly tight schrader adapters. Some of them have really tight fitting O rings that can unscrew the core. If you want to be rid of most of these problems, install schrader valves. Its the way to go. ALWAYS install new cores whenever you add sealant. $50 tubeless valves are a real joke, when a $10 or cheaper valve works just fine. I can get a new tire for less than $50!

Increased airflow is the main reason behind the design, for what it's worth.

$$anta Cruz Re$$erve. I like SC but my opinion is lessened now. I can buy a used electric drill and a bunch of schrader valves for $50. Then I have a drill for a whole bunch of other projects too!

They would work on the valve body threads but you wouldn’t be able to use the precision air release (which is a really cool feature). You could always have the caps anodized or wait until Reserve potentially comes out with color

@@Jocool0785 ok i understand, thanks for the help!

As long as you have the valve up at the 12o'clock position or so, it shouldn't be an issue, same as with presta.

@@ruffrydazz2032 sure, makes sense :) thanks!

Just installed these rip off valves for a customer yesterday. They set up fine but $50 better? They werent quicker or any easier! For some reason our Park inflator's pressure guage doesn't work only with these valves! Anyways, there's a sucker born every minute! Schrader valves always work great. Less than $50 gets me a new tire, a whole bunch of schrader valves or a killer gourmet lunch and beer if I want to waste $50!

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OgxOcg9Cr6k.html Go to about the 3 and half minute mark.

yes

I don't think it's a problem measure the hole and buy a 100 spare o rings for about $2 and bring a spare

@@briain12 Yeah I know, I'm just curious how likely it would be, that some sort of damage occurs during a ride. So more on the lines of, what will make the seal and o ring fail.

@@The2808erik I think damage would be unlikely it's only moving while air is passing through the valve. If your valve hits something like a rock it's really gonna be the least of your worries

@@briain12 Yeah I guess you are right, A quality o ring should last multiple seasons.

Their website says that they have a Lifetime Guarantee. Maybe they'll send you a new one if something breaks? They also have free shipping in the US

Yep, my digital gauge works just the same. Same with my analog gauges on my pumps. Essentially the tire pressure holds the seal of the valve, similar to presta, so it acts the same for gauges.

Our Park shop inflator's guage does not work ONLY with these new valves. Kinda weird. My hand is my pressure gage though. Ive pumped up thousands of tires! But ours is an old inflator. New ones are impossible to get through QBP right now.

When I worked in Minneapolis, we had a bunch that came into our shop corroded from the salt. On top of my struggles with with them always clogging from regular Stans, I can’t say we are having the same experience, so what’s your trick?

You've never had a valve stick and instead of loosening the top the entire core goes shooting into the woods or across your shop? Lucky

When new no problem for sure! Problems comes with time and several set up using the same valve.

Carry a spare core or two on rides and a core wrench. Change them every time you add sealant or at least clean off the dried gunk. When adjusting tire pressure, rotate the valve near the ground, bounce the wheel or bike a little and wait a few minutes for sealant to drain out of the valve. This will lessen clogging. Better yet, if you have aluminum rims that are wide enough, drill out your rims for schrader valves. They work waaaay better and also inflate and seat beads faster and easier. ALL schrader valves have removable cores. If you're VERY CAREFUL and know what you're doing (I'm a retired machinist) you could use a carbide drill (must be carbide) or diamond) to drill out carbon rims. But it may void warranties or delaminate the rim if you're not VERY CAREFUL! Don't try it if you're not very confident and don't understand machining carbon. But it's a lot like drilling cleanly thru wood without splintering. It really just requires patience and planning. Its not a complex procedure at all.

I agree, never had a problem myself. I give them a good clean when changing tires. I never put the milk through the valvecore itself, I throw it straight into the tire. That way I don't have milk directly in the core, maybe that does the trick?

Thanks didn't know these existed. I'll buy a set for my commuter

Thanks for this.

Yep!

They're probably comparing with the valve core on. But you would remove the core to bed your tyre in, at least for your first setup, hence pointless comparison. Presta without the core will have exactly the same airflow as fillmore. Marketing guys trying to fool ignorants again and try to justify their 50$ price

You can easily seat a tubeless tire using an air gun with the valve core removed. If you can't it's almost surely not an issue with the silly overpriced valve. Even Stan's valves are overpriced if you consider such things. If you want to make it even easier and quicker, use schrader valves.....more air volume. Most modern rims can be drilled out, believe it or not! There's no point in these overpriced valves EXCEPT separating suckers from their money.

I'm guessing the pressure of putting in the sealant drops the "valve" to allow sealant to go in? Seems like a good way to clog the whole valve stem. but $50????

Yeah, if there is no air in the tire, it just goes right in, with of course, gravity!

Maybe this wasn’t explained clearly. I believe you inject sealant directly with the cap removed and valve in full open position. Some sealant will remain in the valve body BUT (this is key) will be blown into the tire when you inflate. I could be wrong though!

According to their website they make three sizes. The largest is 90mm and fits rims 48mm to 68mm deep.

I agree with you. I've been riding bike with presta valves for over 32 years. Been running tubeless for 4 years. Never been an issue.

Little trick that I've used in the past if a valve was only a few millimeters short was to take a razor blade and trim whatever I need off the bottom part of the rubber valve stem seal. As long as the diameter is large enough to still plug the rim hole, you should be good. I found it easiest to roll the razor blade around the seal radially while it was still on the valve and then make an axial slit to disconnect the part being trimmed off. After, slide the remaining portion down. Depending on your rim hole size you could easily gain 2-3mm in thread length. Another method that might work is to swap out the seal for an O-ring. Anyways, hope this helps. Good luck!

From my experience in a high end pro shop, Enve rims fit lots of tires extremely tight. So tight it's frustrating and ridiculous. I wouldn't buy em, recommend them nor build with them! I care about my customers. I want to keep 'em rolling! The Enve warranty is not all that's it's cracked up to be either. A carbon engineer cut 'em up and compared them to Chinese carbon wheels. Enve came out with egg on their face in that one! Lots of voids sadly! Its often very difficult to get tires to seat on Enve's. I don't use anything on Enve wheels except their overpriced proprietary valves. I'll refuse to do the work otherwise. I don't have time to waste. Tubeless is hardly a 'new thing'. The Enve valves fit Enve's proprietary rims just right. Maybe Enve should make overpriced proprietary tires that fit their 'special' rims better. Same goes for several other proprietary rims I can think of. The only standard in the bike industry is that there is NO STANDARDS. Marketing BS takes care of all the rest!

There's a sucker born every minute!! But I always call out rip off products. Except to know it alls with money to burn! Haha. They line my pockets! Yet there's lots of perfectly simple, very affordable and effective alternatives, such as freakin schrader valves. I sell and repair such junk every day. Modern bike 'tech' is job security for mechanics like me. More service, more sales. More overly complex junk to stroke egos for me to charge extra to fix. Less than $50 buys me a new freakin tire or a used electric drill to drill out my rims! I can use the drill later for many other projects too!

It's surprising but with the internal core spring, Shrader valves (even with 8mm diameter) actually have less flow than the Presta. By reconfiguring the valve internals, the Fillmore is able to achieve 3X the flow of the Presta

Yep! That would be nice.

You can often find entire decent bikes for $50 used if you're patient. I got a barely used mid level Cannondale Rush fully for $100!

It's not as far a step forward as your solution - Schraeder valves are the real tried and tested solution. The problem with them being that there isn't an absurd level of profit in them for bike companies. Bike co's haven't spend the last 10 years developing non compatible niche 'standards' for commies like you to come along and ruin the party. ;) Now, get the credit card out and order some, the CEO of Santa Cruz isn't getting a new private jet with Schraeder valves!

Yup, yup! Fillmore valves serve the needs of 'suckers born every minute' consumers. They believe spending more gets them a better product. Fact is schrader valves work great, they solve all these almost non issues.

Great point. You need to cut the top of the 2oz bottle a little bit to get it over the rod. Not the end of the world but certainly makes things more challenging. I bet we see something to combat this as more folks use the valve.

Ah yes. I didn't think about that either, but I usually carry an orange seal bottle with the hose adapter, anyhow. The Stan's bottles would be tricky, if not impossible. I'm also assuming someone will offer up a solution soon...

Orange Seal usually comes with a little hose. Or, if you have a tire tool, you could just pop the bead, and pour the sealant directly into the tire.

@@isaacbrooks5999 dunno, popping the tyre on the side of the road, just because you want ot use the new valve, does not sound like an improvmeent.

@@lechprotean I totally agree. That was more of a last- ditch solution if you don't have the Orange Seal hose.

You can, just not with those Stan's bottles. A syringe or Orange Seal hose will work.

not my forte, but do schrader also have removable core to put the sealant in?

@@lechprotean They sure do and can get new cores (if you ever need them) at any tire store for less than buck

Schrader is the way to go. Its the easiest to get sealant through the valve and quickest to bead up due to the higher air volume blasting in there. Its pretty silly (also stupid) to spend $50 on valves when you can get a new tire for less than that! Schrader's great especially on wider modern rims. It might not be possible on older narrow rims. A 'step drill' is the best way to drill out your rim. You can even drill carbon rims with carbide, if you know what you're doing, but it might void a warranty. I can afford to buy carbon, yet refuse to use it. I know better. ALL rims should come drilled for schrader. There's no excuse.

A cheap plastic cap should work just as well. I give them away at my shop and they're often found on the floor. Come by and I'll give you a handful. I might even have some blingy anno'd metal ones Just convert your rims to schrader and treat your friends to a round of beers! Schrader valves solve all these problems effectively, they're quite AFFORDABLE and requires no valve cap. All standard tire valves hold air without the cap!

Maybe true. I like putting in sealant through valves so I don't have to break the bead, especially when resealing used old tires with that crusty lumpy bead. Schrader always works great for me. Ive Been using them for decades on split tube ghetto set ups. We can't break the bead on ghetto set ups. Sealant goes in super easy thru schrader valves. Tires inflate and bead up way faster when you can force air in faster. I can get a new tire for less than $50!! Or a nice used electric drill to drill out my freakin rims! If I want to waste $50, I buy a nice sushi lunch and a whole bunch of beer!

I think Stif sells them in the UK

What's your issue with RH? I might be able to help. I know that some tires simply won't work reliably tubeless with particular rims. The manufacturing tolerances aren't always compatible. I also know that ultra light thin casing tires often cause problems in tubeless set ups. I don't invite weight weenies on ultra marathon offroad rides anymore. I often landed up fixing their overpriced, unsuitable junk, since Im usually the only pro mechanic along for the ride. I rode a customer's RH knobby 'cross tires and they were amazing! If I didn't get so many tires free, I'd try em out! Rene Herse' roadish tires are really nice tires, but not very suitable for my personal brand of underbiking, offroad abuse. Im not particulatly nice to my tires on my local rocky trails and one of my 'cross bikes is a singlespeed. It gets beaten really hard on mtb trails. A few of my buddies have torn RH tires on easy trails. Ive got the very similar Soma Supple Vittesse tires, but these are used on seldom ridden road wheels. I wouldn't recommend thin casing tires like this for any loaded touring type riding. You need heavy tires for that. Ive used the Somas on fast dirt but their thinness makes me pretty nervous. They are my very fastest tires and so comfortable and sticky. Nevertheless, Reliability is always worth a couple extra pounds to me! Maybe I can help you figure it out. Ive set up hundreds of tubeless tires. Ive done lots of tubeless compatible setups and my own DIY ghetto (split tube ) set ups for over 20 years. I rode tubeless before Stan's when it was mostly a downhillers thing. I adapted it to my mega endurance marathon riding. My gravel and 'cross tires are ultra reliable for bikepacking and touring into very empty places.

@@rollinrat4850 hi, don’t get me wrong I love Rene Herse tires (currently on 2 of my bikes!) I was having issues with the Sealant I was using - the muck off stuff - leaking through the tire wall. I have some of the panaracer sealant and am trying this weekend to remount the tires (48mm knobbly ones with the standard casing). I live in Salisbury U.K. and we have loads of chalky flinty gravel here. Still have not punctured with the 38mm and 32mm slick Rene Herses despite using them in gravel regularly (my 32mm are on a 1966 vintage steel Mercian - supple as you like!

@@nickporter3531 That's what the thinner casing tires do. Also, I think Muckoff never really dries up. Orange Seal will dry up and form a layer inside the tire. Ive set up non tubeless casing tires as tubeless and that leakage is a common occurrence. I had that issue with 120tpi Clement Xplor's. In the early days of tubeless, many higher quality XC type mtb tires would weep sealant and make a big mess. I lost significant air overnite too. Your nice tires will get pretty dirty looking from the dirt sticking to them. Which sealant worked better? Orange seal happens to be my favorite mostly because I get it cheap or often free. We just started carrying Muckoff products in my store in the last year. Avoid using Stan's. The ammonia in it can cause havoc if it ever gets to aluminum nipples. I only use Stan's as a last resort in a pinch. It's nasty stuff. It smells like piss when it gets old! Try removing your wheels and laying them on a trash bin so they're level with the ground. Flip them over a few times a day for several days. This might build up a layer of sealant to dry inside the tire's sidewall. You might try 'seam sealer' for tents also. You paint it on the sides of your tires in several coats. Its a thin sort of clear glue. Ive heard of people using it to preserve older cotton tubular tires. I never did anything like that with my tubs. I just rode 'em until they wore out. Most folks ride tubulars as special event wheels only and store them for a long time. I found the smooth ride quite addicting. Especially the incredible traction for bombing descents! I have used the seam sealer on older skin walls that were stored a long time. It seemed to work fine, looked nice and had no ill effects. You might want to drop Rene Herse a line to see what they think.