I have an entire bucket full of fired .303 Berdan primed brass. What I have been doing is drilling through the firing pin indentation, and subsequently, the Berdan anvil with a #4 countersink bit. This gets rid of the Berdan anvil and creates a shoulder for the flange of a new 209 primer at the same time. Then I finish by drilling with a letter B drill. This creates the right size hole for a 209 primer. Then, since .303 rims are a little too thick, I trim the rim on the case very slightly so that it will chamber. Usually enough to take the headstamp away. It may be best to do this prior to drilling, so that one can get the correct depth with the countersink bit for the 209 flange. One can fire-form, but that wastes powder. I anneal, then gradually size up, and up, until it's 'close enough'. Then I just let a shot load do the rest of the forming. This may be complicated to some, and it takes some time, but it's a way to re-purpose the Berdan brass. All of this being done, I still may spend the exorbitant amount for some Magtech cases, as I appreciate the 'right' thing. Not a problem at all, I just have a distaste for paying these companies twice what they are worth, already having bought them in 16 and 12 for my other hammer doubles.
I use a different method to seal the case, an LDP Plastic wad 60 thou thick tight fit in case, ( old Tupperware lids are LDP )then taper crimp using a 40/65 seating die. I make my over powder wads from cardboard drink coasters,The punches to form the wads are recycled golf shafts,sharpened they cut really well and last. The best brand of shaft is a True Temper ( dynamic) steel iron shaft. You can get multiple sizes from one shaft as they are stepped. Cheers Mal in au.
The issue is that you've introduced work hardening unnecessarily, requiring that you anneal the cases after some number of reloads - which you would not have to do if you did not crimp, but simply used the UV-cured resin to retain the overshot wad. The hardened resin would certainly hold the wad in place all on its own. Since the resin is clear, you could use colored overshot wads to match the load, and save having to use nail polish, as well.
Nice video but you really need a powder trickler. I made mine and it was easy. See if you can look at one that is for sale in a sporting shooting shop and you will see strait away how they are made and how they trickle the powder out. I made mine out of a piece of 2 inch plastic pipe for the body and a piece of alloy rod passing through the plastic on an angle. It is only a slight angle so the powder comes out slowly. The alloy pipe has a hole drilled in the side of it. As you turn the alloy pipe it picks up powder in the hole and it runs out at the other end. At the end where the powder comes out I put a short coil of wire up into the tube so the powder had to go around this coil and made it measure out more accurately. I have used this home made trickler for over 40 years and it has never let me down. 40 years ago things were tough and money scarce so we all home made what we could. A store bought powder trickler now days in 2019 may be bought for a few dollars but I would not know about that. Making for me was more fun than buying. Every body sitting around the fire with hound dogs every where playing guitars singing dancing and just having the best fun ever. Oh my Lord I sure do miss those days.
Me again! Got the Magtech cases and FINALLY managed to find a Winchester 9410. Problem, the cases fit in the chamber and eject faultlessly but are too wide so jam in the action when I cycle the under lever. Is there a 410 die set I can buy to resize the cases? Alternatively do you have any experience of using Marlin .444 cases, I am told they are about the same size as 410.
@@MrGb5084 Yes, the case is not truly straight sided but gets very slightly wider towards the rim. It is only a fraction but enough to stop it feeding in my gun. Your Henry may have greater tolerance so I would see if you can find a couple to try before purchasing a box full (or two) like I did!
Hello from Greece, it was very helpfull your video and i reload now like that. You got any recipe with sp 3 ? also tell me if you can how many times you reload the shells? i meal about life time of the shell.and also i am sorry for my bad english! Thanks in advance.
Great video, thank you. Wished we could buy those Magtech shells now LOL. Has anyone tried pouring melted wax in the end to seal it up ? You could also use color coded wax.
Why are you measuring projectile and powder instead of just using a dipper? Your not even loading slugs, so the shot is gonna scatter in random patterns no matter what
Most are Belgian make, although Westley Richards made a handful. They sadly, and by rumor, got the name of 'poachers gun' because they could be folded to fit under a coat while walking the hedgerows. The manufacture of them was obviously never aimed for that purpose, and they are very nice and sweet guns. I myself would love to own one.
@@woodsman2433 Thanks, I now have the cases, wads, etc but can’t find any loading data. C&G suggested Pyrodex RS and I’ve seen a guy on RU-vid using Universal Clays. What do you use?
The brass 410 cases can be manufactured from .303 British brass, aneal the outer end of the case, and fire form in Your .410 with a 5/16 wood dowel "bullet"....use standard rifle primers, and the load described in this video, use a 1/2 .303 load of Your fastest powder with a little TP between the load and "bullet" will accomplish the fireform...a 3/8 hole punch will manufacture correct size separators for the fire formed straight wall cases.....One 12 guage shell has enough shot and powder to reload two .410 shells, and wood glue works great as a sealer......410 on a budget....
@@nickcavanaugh9586yes, I do it for years, making blanks for .45 fast draw (cowboy style ). Wwith black powder you don't need measures to produce the back pressure (like with nitro).
