I'm retired now, but spent 15 years as a general contractor and then 20 years as an inspector. Your techniques and attention to detail are great. Good work.
Really enjoy Paul’s approach. Methodical. Doesn’t get too far ahead of himself, always identifying the best plan for each piece of the project and making it look easy! It’s helped me with my own home projects. Just take a breath, step back and execute your plan.
Great attention to detail, especially installing joist hangers flush to prevent bow in sheetrock install to ceiling. Lots of hard work that you guys handle with good planning.
Very nice trick! Another if you don’t have a planer is set the joist 1/16 up from bottom of beam to accommodate for the height difference in the joist hanger.
I am not even close to being a carpenter, but when redoing my house, I did meticulous stuff, like flushing the rafter , for the hangers for good drywall fit. I didn't know how to do things " the standard way", so I just did stuff, that would make the next steps easier.
I love the informational value of your videos! But what I like more than that is watching the great relationship between you two and watching you enjoy your priceless time together. Something I never got to experience with my own father due to him passing away when I was a teen. Keep up the great work guys! And thanks for sharing.
You guys ROCK!!! Seriously best framing channel I have seen in a long time!! I am an architect in Ca and I am loving the amount of detail you put into your project. You dont waste our time with unrelated giberish, but yet you do go over some awesome pointers!! I love the tip about cutting the CJ's at an angle so they don't pinch your blade and they drop off as you cut! Now, that's experience right there!! Keep up the great work you and don't change a thing!! Excellent!!
I love seeing a contractor taking real pride in his work. Doing everything “by the book” including using an engineer to design the ceiling beams. Love watching you guys work.
loved the trick with the joist hangers. they were such a pain as they always always made a ugly bump. great idea. Also like the way you keep cleaning up around yourself. (I do the same). A clean site is a tidy profitable safe site. Great job.
You guys are awesome, been a This old house fan all my life and you guys are a modern day this old house type show! Keep up the great work and best of luck on all your projects.
Watched all your recent stuff so I'm going back to the older videos. Funny to see you working without all the modern/new tools in the recent videos. For example, no laser level! You guys have really come a long way in the last year and a half, both in tools/skills as well as video personality.
This is cool. Father and son duo getting it done...lol...Pass on the knowledge. I am a software engineer and so want to learn a few trades and do some construction. We need to keep this knowledge alive and well!!!
Hay it was great to bump into you today. I hope you enjoyed your lunch. This is the first video I saw of yours and have been watching ever since. Welcome to Texas again.
I absolutely love this channel! But it has made me realize that starting a RU-vid channel about the same work my brother and I do wouldn’t be in our best interests for time sake. We do the exact same things, with methods so air tight that we don’t even have to explain anything to each other anymore. If we were to start filming and explaining what’s happening, we’d drop productivity substantially. With a two man crew, we benefit like crazy over getting it done quickly. If we had a videographer it might work but definitely not at the moment. Keep doing great work guys!
I like the dynamic between the father and son. I also like how informative these videos can be. My only gripe here is that second beam directly above the window. I’ve been told that is a BIG no-no.
The screw trick works good for making beams/joist flush. If you want it flush on the bottom, Put a screw in the higher joist/beam and use a hammer or prybar to pull it flush. If you want it flush on top. Put a screw in the lower one and pull up. You get it. But your load might have been to heavy. Works great for framing
You guys are top notch. I always enjoy contracting videos but usually am fast forwarding thru them. I watch yours all the way thru. Im building a pool house currently yet here I am watching you guys install beams
I don't do this type of construction but I'm learning some nice tricks: bottle jack. speed square and clamp, palm driver, plaining the joist for the hangers, cutting an angle so your saw blade doesn't pinch, probably a few more things as well.
Found your RU-vid channel recently - been going back and watching it from the beginning. Let me say that i really enjoy your videos .. keep them coming - definitely subscribed. This is what i used to watch HGTV build shows for in the past, until they started focusing more on the "builder celebrities" and not the actual work itself. Love how you give tips and tricks and actually show the work itself. Keep up the good work guys.
I’m a plumber by trade but I grew up with a builder who like y’all did everything on the houses he built besides electrical, plumbing, and sometimes painting. I’ve also done some electrical work and other stuff. Out of all that, I can honestly say I’ve never seen a right angle drill used to drive a screw. But hey if it works right. It especially makes sense with those big torx head structural screws. Stripping isn’t an issue and those drills have all the torque you’ll ever need for a screw or bolt
@@StudPack funny thing about that, I think I’m the only guy at our company who still has corded tools. I have plenty of battery tools but if I’m getting a cord out anyway why not plug something in that you never have to change a battery. I told a helper to put a couple drywall screws into wood. He wasted more time looking for the impact than he’d have taken just screwing them in. I finally said just use a screwdriver. He replied “you can actually drive screws with a screwdriver”. I made some smart ass remark about the fact that it’s called a screwdriver. Anyway I explained to him that when I started we put lots of screws in by hand because it was faster than getting out a drill and running a cord just to put a few small wood screws in. They just don’t know how good they have it.
Glad I found your page guys. Nice work. I do have a couple comments though. I'm surprised you don't have dust containment walls us, considering that homeowner hasn't covered their furniture in the adjacent rooms. Also, a window fan (blowing out) would help vacate the airborn dust you're making. And that shop vac you've got sitting there is the absolute best means for capturing demo dust vs all that sweeping, which churns dust into the air. Finally, that triple header you installed wants a triple stud pack. Come on guys, it's in your name. :)
Action packed video. Lots of content in this and it's great to see the transformation all at once with all of the steps in between. Keep up the great work guys!
Each row of nails is in a line but rows are staggered in relationship to each other. We go into more nailing details in our more recent beam install video 👍
Great job. Only thing I noticed was you only had two studs underneath the 3-ply beam. If I’m not mistaken, you’re supposed to have a stud for every ply.
Honestly, I'd gladly take a lefty sidewinder. The rear handles are great for most framing, but they're too dang heavy for work like that. Makes me glad for the small battery circ saws on the market now.
Question: I would have liquid nailed those three 2x14 beams together and put them up a single unit, can I ask why you choose to install them individually? Gluing, clamping and shooting nails seems easier on the ground, though more difficult to put in place (understandably) so I would love to hear your reasoning to help me in the future.
I watched this and find it good work and information but with the second beam why not add construction adhesive where rafter out and beam touches and supports roof sheeting.
Question, is the header for the window and that wall strong enough to carry the weight? Seems like that should had been beefed up or the window removed completely and relocated.
Is the bevel cut at the end of the joist to fit the low height per engineer drawing? Usually, that cut should not extend as much as the video shows for some LVLs. Maybe your LVL manufacturer allows it?!
Q?: You keep referring to the "engineer" ... Wouldn't your experience already tell you what needs to be done? Also how much does this "engineer" person cost? ..... I'm a homeowner that's planning to do exactly what you are doing here. TIA
Great video. Subscribed. One question though: why don’t you use both beams with LVL instead of 1 side with 2 pelieces of LVL while the other side you gang 3 pieces of 2x16 together? I keep going over your video just to make sure if what I see is correct. I could not find any other reason besides cost and availability. Thank you for your grear video. I’m about working on a similar diy project for my shed
The short of it Andy is that this is what the engineer specified so the inspectors are looking for my work to match the drawings. I suspect it was a cost issue $15 vs $75 ??? each.
Hey stud pack....great video! Was hoping you could give a brief explanation...when you snapped the chalk line on the existing ceiling rafters prior to cutting them where did you reference off of to assure that each rafter was cut the same length? Thanks for the content!
Good work, a structural engineer dang did you have to have plans drawn up too, or is it something you call and ask, also does the engineer say anything about adding loads to foundation or is it something that i"m overthinking is that something i should ask him about, or will i get laughed off stage ? Thanks in advance although i"m sure I'll be asking more questions.
Love the video. Love the family getting it done together. Where are you getting your lvl beams, and do you know of any place in or near new that provides them?
How does cutting the angle to clear the roof not weaken the beam? Isn't the part of the beam that makes contact with the top plate transferring all the weight?
How do you connect a 10Wx39 steel i-beam to a 3- 2x8s column? I would add blocking to the web and through bolt it (4x). But how do you connect the block part to the 3 - 2x8 columns? I cant find anything from Simpson. Note: 2x8s are on a sill plate and the three board will be head locked together.
