Only thing I would have added is a quick mention of making sure the floor below can handle the added stress on those two points. That's more up to the engineer really to make sure that is proper. Has to be planned out differently if this is a wooden base - floor joists below - as opposed to concrete base
As a contractor I have to mention some things about pricing. Ina addition to the work you are paying for the contractor assuming all risk. How do you quantify that? You are also paying for the movement of the project. Notice how this contractor mentions that he spent some time thinking about how he was going to transfer the load. I have a similar project in the works and I am visiting the site again before I proceed to finalize my approach. I will sit in the attic and take a couple more pictures and ruminate about how I will proceed too. That all adds up to a smooth project that flows. It's not all wood and screws. Kudos to the contractor.
You factor that in, as you're doing the bid. You spend 4 hours contemplating, and probably another 4+ doing your bid work, plus time there. That's all an additional day or more on the final proposal.
@@LightGesture In nearly every field we think about work when we're "off the clock". As an engineer I'm often thinking about the best design approach for an ongoing project while I'm at home (showering, eating, relaxing, etc). If i started billing my projects based on my "thinking" time I'd probably be brought into a meeting very quickly.
I am glad to see that you are working with your son. Years ago my oldest son work with me in our small Remodeling company. Some of the most rewarding years of my life.
Very cool! I like how you used the framing square to guide your skill saw. Also liked how your son stepped back to allow you out first! Very respectful! Great job I’m always intimidated on load bearing walls but this helps with my confidence so ty! 💪🏻
Guys! STUD PACK! I grew up working with my dad in the construction industry. (Flooring) I was raised on job sites. Your videos bring me joy and nostalgia, they warm my heart and they have taught me so much. Thank you for this channel and all of the work you have put in to making these videos. I truly hope this message reaches you.
Great to see a father and son working together ... That does not happen that much now a days. You both are lucky and more importantly you both have worked to make your relationship so great. Wish all young men had great fathers like you sir and you son is great also probably due to having a great father and mother. Best wishs to you all. Regards.. enjoy your videos.
Just decided to go back to watch some old StudPack for fun. I feel like this is the first video your Dad wasn’t completed annoyed with the RU-vid thing and his personality started to shine through. That pipe video was rough. iPhone, shaking, your dad not wanting anything to do with it 😂😂😂. Now his presentation skills in front of the camera are incredible and rivals any TV host. Paul is the next generation’s Tom Silva or Bob Villa, and is 100% authentic. So awesome to see.
Things done well. Starting with an engineering approved plan and following the plan. Working with son to teach valuable skills. Explaining the purpose of each existing support. Showing how to build a temp support that will remove the load from the existing structure that is to be removed. Showing how each support to be remove no longer has a load on it, thus safe to remove. Professional teaching tutorial, covers all important tasks well, video organized and even shows importance of keeping area cleaned up. Son also shares his experiences on skills. Apparent that son/father have great respect for each other. Great life lessons. Things not done well...You didn't make the video all about you (; ......Thank goodness.
I wanted to write a comment like this one but it’s already done :) You guys are a GREAT team and I thoroughly enjoyed watching you two and I learned a lot!!
man i am getting ready to have to do this exact same thing to my grandmothers home that i acquired! it was built in 1953, with a hip roof and a load bearing wall between the kitchen and living room and watching this helped tremendously!
The most satisfying part is when you remove your temporary wall and you get that first feel of how open you just made the room! Great job fellas I’ve always used screws in any temporary wall just cause it’s easier to take apart and no nail pulling and NO WASTE!
It's awesome that you are working with your son on this and that he shows great enthusiasm- definitely a great bond between you two!! You both are a great team!!! Loved the video and I did learn a few things for sure!!!
Basically did the same application but with 3 LVL's. When I install these, 2 or more, I laminate them together by applying PL premium, (liquid nails) onto the surfaces to be joined before screwing them together. I install one, apply PL to one surface, then install the second one and temporarily fasten them with screws until all 3 are installed. Then to permanently fasten them together, I use 1/2" threaded rod with lock nuts and washers in a "W" pattern. I buy long lengths of threaded rod and cut to the length required. I then mark out 16 inch centres on the beam before drilling, so the threaded rod won't interfere with the ceiling joist hanger placement. Depending on the thickness of the existing cement floor, in my case, I had to cut out the cement in 2 ft. squares where the support posts would sit. The existing cement floor pad was removed and I then dug out a 2 ft. deep footing, filled them with cement to create a much stronger pad for the support posts to sit on. In some applications I install steel jack posts instead of using wooden supports.
Thanks Norm, that's a very strong installation. I've done footings before also when I lived in southern California. Had to epoxy rebar into existing slab with a $150/hour third party inspector looking over my shoulder to be sure the holes were proper diameter/depth, clean holes with brush/compressed air, proper epoxy, etc. etc. Same size as yours too. 2 x 2 x 2 then go get a yard of cement in a pull behind trailer. Can't remember the name of that place but you could buy cement by the yard - kinda nice sometimes.
I’ve heard that adhesive between beams is actually weaker than just putting them together as they act more like a single beam without the layer between them.
The adhesive when applied is very thin. Like when installing engineered floor joists, it's a building code requirement to not only screw but glue the floor sheathing to the joist creating one solid structure. Screws applied alone have a tendency to loosen over time when the floor flexes from weight traveling over them. The glue prevents this from happening. The same holds true with the LVL application. If you don't screw then bolt the beam together before the glue cures your theory may hold true. Then there would be gaps between the boards being affixed together. No screw could draw them together properly. This is why it is a must that they be screwed together before the glue has time to cure. If you want to stiffen up floor joists that meet the bare minimum code for their application, I glue and screw 2x4's or 2x6's to either side of them and it works perfectly. Even affixing them to one side makes a substantial difference. I've also screwed and glued 3/4" plywood to the sides of the joists, which works wonders, especially if you have limited working space. Just try taking two boards apart after gluing them together. Don't even screw them. Ain't going to happen. They come apart in sharp chunks. To make a room, like a home theatre more sound proof, I've glue drywall over drywall. No screws to apply. Saves a substantial amount of time and labor. Works like a charm. That's why they call it liquid nails. Have a good one. I may not be handsome, but I'm handy. Right honey? I bought my spouse a 12" miter saw for her birthday, so I could borrow it. :-) Honey, mind if I use your saw?
Thanks for the instructions I'm a contractor small contractor and want to remove a parcel load bearing wall to extend a kitchen at my daughter's home this will definitely help me build my confidence .
I have seen a palm-nailer before, many times, but I have never seen how one was used, or the purpose of it.....and I gotta tell you, it looks absolutely invaluable. THANK YOU!
Great job from a long time Pro!!! Refreshing to see you and your son working together so well. Too many young men are NOT wanting to learn the trades bc they don’t see it as glamorous. The sad part is they opt for many other careers that won’t pay nearly as well as a very good professional contractor making money running his own business!! Great job
Great video, Thanks! My son is very interested in building and specifically interested in beams. So we wanted to show him what it takes to install a support beam. Your video had good details and explanations of why. I loved how you answered the viewers questions without having to be asked. You're a natural teacher and what a cool project for you and your son. The only thing I would do differently is to slow down the camera a little so we can take it all in. Looking forward to more videos. :) Take Care
Thanks Tyson, we appreciate that very much! We apologize for the camera work. This was only our 4th video and we've recently upgraded to a GoPro as well.
that was very informative. i want to do this to my house, although it will be awhile before i can. showed me all the things that i probably wouldnt have thought of. well done!
Absolutely fascinating 👏 Wish you guys were in eastern Tennessee so I could have you build my medium size tiny home! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge!
I really appreciate videos like this. I’ve added beams in new construction but I’ve always been curious how beams can be added while still supporting the weight of the roof
After this being the third video I have seen, I subscribed. Seems like very knowledgeable people that actually care about the customer and the quality work performed.
The Bowzer didn’t mean any disrespect you did a fantastic job,I watched the whole thing,im 67 myself,electrician I’ve heard them referring to me on the job so you fit the bill,but I can outwork some of the younger guys,use the brain like you did to make it easier,nice job .
@@jackoshea687 not ah problem. I was going up a long flight of stairs when this guy in maybe in his 40's went running up the stairs and said "behind you pop's"! I laughed like hell. Cracked me up!
I was looking for a long time for a video that really explained a difficult job and the professional installation. Thank you for sharing your experience You are a master in construction 💪🏽
This was fun to watch. I just did something similar in my house to span a room that also opened to a cathedral ceiling (two story house).. had to stack together 4 LVLs, each 18" wide and 20' long!
The main issue with seismic is that you are removing a wall. The more walls you have, in general the more stable the house will be seismically. You can compensate by adding plywood to the remaining walls. Even partition walls add to the seismic stability of a house. Many of the old houses in the north west do not have footings (just foundation walls) since there is a lot of glacial till. When adding beams, you have to add footings since it is no longer permitted not to have footings.
I pretend that I enjoy doing this stuff on my house. Sometimes I recall with fondness the work I had the pro's do on it, and then remember how much it cost me. And then I started doing it all on my own and realized it's not really that hard, and it costs a LOT less than having the pro's do it, AND i know it's done right. Then I pretend Harder that I enjoy doing this stuff to my house... [edit] Let's be clear: this 'stuff' is hard work. The pro's get what the pro's get because they are willing to do hard work. But if you live in a hundred year old house, and plan to be there for a while, it can be rewarding both intellectually and emotionally. p.s. you'll find the lumber they used back then was... so much better. Old Growth.
Very good informative video, great attention to detail and good workmanship. I've done many load bearing wall removal to open up kitchen area. Lots of planning and labor involved for sure. Enjoy all the videos.
I'm up in Bossier Parish and need to do something very similar for the central load bearing wall that extends from an under-hang header spanning the split between the kitchen/living room. It ends right at the corner common to the bath and hall entry. We are going to renovate the bath and will be adding Eclisse pocket doors in 4 places (hall entry, MBR entry, and 2 x shower alcove entries from the end 1/2 BA on each side of shower/tub room. To get the free span for the hall entry to the guest 1/2 BA, I need to extend that header (1982 vintage 2 x 2x 12 with unknown filler plate). At this point, I am just about convinced to replace the existing hanging header that is under the double top plate with joists lapping over with a continuous flush beam spanning the entire ridge area from garage ridge to hip transition and to the outside wall at the other end of the house (tapered to the hip) and put it all in the attic. Hang all the ceiling joists from it and break the span up where there is available places to put in posts, and then at the ends. This will accommodate the free-span requirements for the BA entry pocket door, and the future pocket door to the MBR entry. Additionally, it will provide a means to correct the (what I consider) sub-standard 1980s support for the ridge board and rafters. Seeing how y'all did your project convinces me that this is a doable and preferable option to keeping the double top plate and extending that underhang header. Now to work up a proto design for the beam and column locations/sizing, the temp support procedure, and finding a PE to do the "magic math" and supply me a stamped design and a mats spec for the bureaucrats. Thank you, and you have a new sub!
I need to do a job very similar to the job y'all did in your video. It will help me a lot. The difference is that my house is 100 years old. Much of the lumber is full size and is hard as a rock. Thanks.
I sure do wish you folks would come up to East Tennessee visit the Smoky Mountains, Dollywood and a some other places then help me redo my kitchen, dining room and living room almost the exact setup as this one.
@@StudPack I have a problem underneath in my basement the flowing I guess is 10 so its deteriorating okay deterioration is that a foundation problem or do I just need to have the floor listed in the in the pool that deterioration it out because it's starting to leak water it comes up on my front steps partially help if you can
You the man brother like the way you explain everything and made sense of everything! I have a home similar wall and had a fake contractor suppose to put a beam to open up the area between living room, kitchen and dining room, contractor took wall down and I never seen him again, now it’s sagging. From your experience what would be the cost of a job like this if you don’t mind me asking I have to find someone ASAP and don’t want to get gotten. Thanks, nice job and wish you was in my area I would of definitely hire you.
rauly estevez that part of the job was probably $3000 with labor and materials, including the beam. It took 4 full days of prep work to get ready to pull the load bearing wall out. On the day of the beam install, I had to help for a couple of hours as 4 of those 22’ beams weighed about 1000 lbs. they did a lot of other work too so it’s hard to say exactly what the beam cost
Well done. I had a load bearing wall like the one you took down. I hired a contractor and he said it couldn't be removed. Inn my heart I knew it could be done. He ended up just cutting out the wall like a big window. I really hate it but that's the breaks. Really loved your video.
I just had the upstairs neighbor flood our Condo, which we were planning to renovate for a rental unit over the next year while my sister is working in the S. Pacific. We were HOPING to remove a load bearing wall that is taking-up some 120 ft² of useable space, but the cost of doing so was nearly prohibitive…. Until the flood. Insurance pays for the water-damage clean up, which did 75% of the work for us in removing the wall. I already had the drawings and was applying for the permits so that we would be ready. But now I need to speed things up because if we remove the wall, the insurance will pay for the new kitchen, since “putting it back the way it was” will only cause it to flood again when the upstairs neighbor AGAIN doesn’t know that they cannot run ALL of the water (kitchen sink, dishwasher, washing-machine, and shower) at once without flooding our unit due to improper plumbing installation during construction. So the Insurance Co. was like “You already have the Architectural Drawings for the new Kitchen with Catchment Basin under the sink and dishwasher (which is where it floods), relocated to an outer-wall with a drain for flooding completed and approved??!! Since we’ve already torn-out the appliances during flood-damage repair, we would rather pay for putting them where they won’t cause us to have to pay for all this again. And we’ll pay for the additional cost of REMOVING the wall, as long as you have the Permits, and lumber for the temp. Support and beam (we already have the lumber).” Stumbling on your channel six months ago was depressing thinking about having to wait 18 months to get the additional room in the Kitchen, Living Room, and ‘Dining Room’ (soon to be a REAL Dining Room) for removing the wall. When the flood happened I was like “Oh! FFFFF-CK!” And then I was like “OMG! HURRAY! New Kitchen here we come!” The guy who does the Carpentry for Sets for me said to watch your video for what to do. Now to see if the insurance company will pay for the wooden floors instead of just replacing the carpet we will be tearing out this summer (I wonder if we can just have them deliver the carpet and pretend to install it so we can sell it if they don’t approve the hardwood???)
Hey team great video, thanks for sharing Learned a few tricks for the renovations I'm planning to do, still waiting for the Engineering drawings Keep it up
When I was assigned in the Middle East by my government in 1975 (I was 49 years old by that time) I am also an adventurous guy so I went from village to village and I saw a carpenter doing something strange and he told me he is making Aramaic wood which is wood of the Aramaic Bible. He cuts the timber into very thin, long, rectangular sheets and placed the 1st layer on a very thick and flat metal non-sticking anodized surface that has guiding pins made out of the same material on it's sides, then he brush it with a thick layer of boiling sap resins and places an another one on it and repeats the same process until he has reached the desired thickness and then a non-stick annodized thick metal plate is place on it and his sons and nephews places iron weights on it. He said they sometimes use a large number of vices to compress the material. He also said they do not make this woof often anymore except as timber beams and timber posts, joists and rafters and wall frames, stair way supporting frames, floor and wall and stepping stairway foundation planks, foundation door frames and doors only for very well to do traditional families. They only do it for the main wood foundation structures only for the hardened and cured sap resins discolors the very thin wood layers as it penetrates and saturates the wood. Then they place a thin layer of the desired wood and use modern wood glue and small nails to cover it with non-discolored wood. And it is almost virtually impossible to break because if he takes two pieces of thin wood layers and used the same technique of binding them together and holding them in a very tight vice the layer between the two pieces of wood will not break but only either the outer sides will start to crack but when used as a very thick planks, beams, posts, joists, rafters, stairway supporting frames, etc it is virtually indestructible. I asked an Aramaic Priest about the historical background of the Aramaic wood and he said it is the same kind of wood used by Noah to build his Ark! When properly made, hardened, and cured, and seasoned it should last forever and will outlast any metal and stone and clay and ceramics known to man. The gopher wood mentioned in the Chrisian Bible is actually structural laminated wood, only done in the original Pre-Flood methods and techniques.
I have a tip for you, my friend. Next time the LVLs are cupped, face the cups and sandwich them together with a few spikes. That will correct the cup, and it will not cur from the left or the right.
Nicely done. I liked the attention to detail. If you needed the working space some adjustable jack post would work and it would make it easier to transfer the load. It might be nice to update you tools to cordless options especially with the battery power avaliable. One last option, green line lasers are awesome too. Great job.
Thanks Noah! Jack posts are great, I think I can rent them locally. Cordless tools, yeah I know. Been trying to decide on a platform, think I'll go with Milwaukee. I purchased a Bosch green line laser in April, it's a game changer. Check out some of our more recent videos and you're bound to see it👍
Really appreciate how you well you work together and that you take time to keep the job site clean! I do the same and my friends and family appreciate it too!
Good video and tips especially on the reciprocating saw. One area that I would disagree on is on the old wall that had the 5 1/2 foot opening that was sagging. The top plates had a sag but the header itself didn't. I believe the issue was that the cripple studs above the header probably had a slight gap between them and the header/top plate when it was first constructed and the weight of the roof pushed down on that gap over time till the cripple stud was tight between them, which caused the sag in the top plates in the process. Just an observation.
greetings hard workers; yall never cease to amaze me. thank yall for the tasks yall perform and the explanation along the way. may God bless all your endeavors..................g
