Removing and reinstaling a motorcycle front wheel correctly 

If he added hanging the calipers with bungie's and lightly greasing the axle then it would be the perfect video.

@@TRU_Lunchy Amazing how many engineers abhor the axle being greased. They advocate WD40 instead due to grease aggregating dirt. So many perspectives. Hanging the calipers is indeed a good habit.

Thank you very much for posting your experience and sharing that with the YT community. Glad the video was "gold" for you and remedied a bad situation. I'll keep making the videos.

The best Man in Universe !!!

Thank you Rhys for taking the time to share gracious words. They are sincerely appreciated.

Yes, that makes a lot more logical sense. Thank you for the comment in that regard.

I was wondering the same thing ,axle first and then calibers

Thank you for voicing what I was thinking. Thought I was the only one thinking of this

I love that, besides being the most qualified RU-vidrs on this area, Dave was humble enough to consider some random guy commenting on his video and actually changed this procedure order on his next videos.

Thanks for reporting back on the ride home. Glad you enjoyed your time at SSU and thank you for listening to the information presented.

I can see a problem with this. If you fit the calipers before bouncing the front end to align the forks on the axle, if the fork leg needs to move to align, it will be trying to do so against the pads and disc (rotter) even though dave is the guru. I will be fitting the calipers after the bounce and tightening of the fork pinch bolts.

Thank you for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video.

Thank you - appreciate you mentioning this "new" addition to the KTM 1290 manual.

Thanks for using the video and your kind words!!

Thank you! My 2023 schedule is posted here: davemosstuning.com/calendar/ so I wil look forward to see you.

Thanks for getting stuck in and learning something new. Hope the task went well!

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you sir!

Thanks 👍

Thanks for the comment. I thought we did have the rear wheel video posted bit a search showed it was missing. I'll ask Dave Williams Editor if he has it.

True, there are many ways to do this so the most logical or common sense way of doing it is the way you choose. The method shown was done so to create debate over the process so thank you for watching and contributing.

Oh shit... I've done it wrong then??? 😱

Maniacmaniak song

can't agree more. i always settle the axle first, pinch it, then align the calipers..

4 years later but this is the way I’m thinking about this, I’m definitely an amateur garage monkey but being being that the calipers bolt down to a hard fixed point on the fork and one side of the fork legs is “free” to drift around just a bit, you’d want to do that last. Let the calipers align with the rotors & then let the free side settle. To explain.... When applying the brakes to lock the calipers in alignment with the rotors, If this action causes a bit of a twist resulting in a misaligned free fork, you still have the freedom to align the “free” fork so it can seat it’s self correctly. Now all is in harmony.

Agreed and usually a toothbrush and soapy water frees any stuck piston(s). Sometimes 5 minutes isn't enough and the longest amount of quiet time I have had to get pistons working well is 20 minutes on one caliper.

yes, as there are different size bolts, different head fitment (allen, hex etc) and different shapes (with or without shoulder) which significantly changes the torque valves.

You are just one video call away for remote Tuning!

@@CatalystReactionSBW I'll get on it soon. Thank you for all that you do ❤!

We are doing a video on that in the next month or so. Best way is a brake hone (slow and careful) compared to sand blasting or sanding by hand.

Thank you for your support!

Once the bearings have been replaced, the forks should slide straight into the triple clamps. If one fork seems slightly off, loosen the steering stem nut slightly and see if the fork slides in easier that way. Once in, tighten the steering stem nut and use calipers to measure fork height.

AFM674 not sure I understand your question but I will say my 04 r1 has guide pins on my calipers. I believe yours do too.

Thanks! 10 to 12 ft pounds is a common number associated with pinch bolts at the base of the fork.

Set up the electronics correctly and suspension, and then revel in how seamlessly everything works. My 17 is a step above the 13 for sure and the latest generation is another big jump of improvement,

That and cleaning the brake calipers regularly with a toothbrush and dish washing soap to make sure you don't have one or more stuck pistons in the caliper.

Barry - many ways to do it. I choose no brake pressure so the caliper/rotor are not holding that fork in one position on the free leg. Lots of ways to do one task :)

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks again for your quick feedback! I know the process isn't super critical but if you want maximum braking then it's worth it. The service manual even suggests fork compressions and so I combined it and your video to make my own procedure checklist for my bike. The service manual is absolutely horrible and unclear and leaves out important info I feel like, but anyway it has you installing the calipers last and I actually like that since you aren't changing anything else after you torque them. I set the axle first and get that out of the way. The manual also says to torque the free leg pinch bolts first and the nut side last, but then again the design of the rod & nut are different than the Aprillia. I appreciate your work and thank you. Here is my write up below, if you like let me know what you think. ********************* Reinstalling ZX-14 front wheel with proper alignment Inspired by Dave Moss and the service manual. * Evenly means that both caliper bolts and both pinch bolts are tightened a little at a time back & forth several times, meaning that you don't tighten and torque just one bolt all the way and then the other all of the way. But you already know this. Note: I will keep the same format of the service manual which refers to the left/right side of the bike rather than "Your" left/right hand position. (ex. the right side just may or may not be at your left & vice versa) 1) Place everything back finger tight. First insert the axle rod (ensure with wheel spacers) and you may need a wrench on each side to assist, but this is only with hand snug tension. (I use two wrenches with additional 22mm adapters - see figure A) Note; The axle rod is inserted with the left hand on both the rear and front wheels or from opposite sides of the bike. Then place the calipers & bolts back on finger tight and finger tighten all pinch bolts. 2) Torque front Axle. (OEM 93 ft. lbs.) (CMUSA 35 - 40 for Carrozzeria) 3) Set & Secure the front Axle. Carefully and gently lower the front end to the ground and push down on the triple clamp a few times to compress the forks. This will settle the axle in place for optimum seating & positioning. 4) Torque all pinch/clamp bolts. (OEM 15 ft. lbs.) With the bike still down, torque the right side pinch bolts *evenly to spec (this is the free leg). Then torque the left side pinch bolts *evenly to spec (this is the captive leg or nut end of the rod). 5) Align front Calipers. (OEM 25 ft. lbs. / 26 for Brembo) Lift the front end back up onto the stand and spin the front wheel and apply some brake pressure a few times. Then spin the front wheel as fast as you can and quickly & firmly grab the brake lever. While holding the brake, or by placing a velcro strap w/buckle to hold the brake for you (see figure B). You may now torque all 4 brake caliper bolts *evenly to spec. Release brake pressure and inspect.

In the latest version of this video - we do it exactly that way.

Generally, all bikes with two calipers need them removed as they don't come with quick change pivots. In some cases with one caliper, it can stay. Thanks for leveraging the video for your next caliper cleaning session!

@@CatalystReactionSBW I'm not sure I understand. To my mind, the calipers are independent of the wheel, attached to the fork legs with the pads barely touching the discs. Surely once the axle is removed the wheel can be pulled forwards and down with the calipers where they are?

Glad you managed to get out of that situation. Now with all the electronics we have, every time we get our bikes back we have to do a visual cursory check. For that very reason I take my wheels in and leave the bike at home.

You will get a little drag sometimes and if it does not go away, removing the pistons and cleaning them plus dust and oil seals in the caliper becomes necessary. That is normally deferred to Winter :)

oh i changed the seals and cleaned up the pistons on my old 2001 fireblade the brakes still dragged,its just this 2017 blade is the first bike the front wheel has spun totally freely,then didnt after we took the calipers off,brakes still working as they should so its all good

If the pads close in there is always too much fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. To stop that you can place something between the pads (spanner/wrench) while work is done.

Yes it would be the case to go that route. We posted a video with that process.

Thank you for being diligent and curing the shaking!

White lithium dries up and turns to powder. If I do use grease it is high temp wheel bearing grease. On the wheel spacers a very small amount. Most wheel bearings are sealed.

Yes, that would make sense to make sure the forks are aligned, then tighten the calipers. There are many ways to do something, so experiment both ways to see if it makes a difference for you & your bike.

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks Dave for your wealth of tuning and setup videos. Love having the audio sharing what and why your doing as you go along.. You've set the bar very high my friend.

Yes it would given your path of thinking. Both brake caliper require alignment. The captive fork is held between the locking device and wheel bearing so it cannot move.

Thanks for your questions. I must be honest and am not sure what you are asking for in regards to leaking oil. There is no oil seal on the front wheel - there is a rubber/plastic cover over the wheel bearings to keep dirt out and grease in. Same is true of the rear wheel. If you are asking when to clean and add new grease to the wheel bearings, I would suggest every 20,000kms. If i misunderstood you, please set me straight.

No, I do not grease the axle. I might use a tiny bit of WD40 on the shoulder only to ease removal next time.

this process works with upside down forks. Telescopic forks do not need the calipers to be centered.

Spin the wheel and confirm the spot. Remove the brake calipers and push the pads out of the way. out of the way. Spin the wheel again and see if you hear a touch on the pads and if so check the rotor for being flat and make sure the caliper pistons are really clean with a toothbrush and soapy water so they move out and retract in unison as you might have a stuck piston.

+fredstah714 There's a video for the rear wheel :)

Is it on the same Aprilia bike or different bike? I’m assuming the tutorial video here are the same exact sequence for most bike, correct?

correct - there's no difference at all if the brakes are radial mount

Thank you, Dave. Your videos are very informative. Thank you for taking your time to educate us for our safety on the road. My ride is the 2012 Factory Aprilia RSV4.

absolutely, but normally there is only one or two pistons to deal with.

he has to.

Try both and see what works best for you or alternatively, what is more logical.