it took me awhile to figure that out too . i finally checked my starter again it tested good then it tested bad so i was having an intermittent issue i changed it and haven't had a problem since .thanks for watching
I think your problem is in the piece on the steering wheel that the lock cylinder goes in. It's called the cylinder lock housing. Right below the lock cylinder is the place where the ignition switch bolts on (the little black box with the wires coming from it). if you remove the switch, you will see a white plastic piece underneath it. That plastic piece has a tab on it that goes into the switch to actuate it. It is not at all uncommon for that tab to break off. When it does, you get exactly the effect you are experiencing. All the accessories light up.... but the starter won't engage. You can easily check it by looking at the backside of the switch. If the tab has broken off, you'll see in back of the switch itself. To repair it, replace the cylinder lock housing. This is an expensive part that costs roughly $85-$90 aftermarket. The original GM part is several hundred dollars.
I really appreciated your video. it helped me a bunch. I couldn't figure how to get the column cover off of mine. With your vehicle I want to say I had the same thing on a Silverado 2500 HD. Even though my starter continued to test as good I changed it anyway. And I never had that problem again. As long as you have juice in your battery you be able to turn your engine over. Thanks again. James
A ton of good info. Ran into this same problem on 89 Chevy K1500 recently. I looked at wiring diagram, their is a wire from switch to starter relay then to the starter solenoid. I checked for 12 volts at the solenoid, nothing. Found the wire with a broken terminal at solenoid. Soldered a new connector on wire, started right up. Hope this helps someone. Check for voltage with switch in start mode. Use caution when doing this. Be safe. Good luck...
Thanks for making the video, those service manuals only show so much and even that isn’t much. Thanks for showing how to pull the lock cylinder out. Getting that top cover off the column was really frustrating. My problem was getting to the turn signal, hazard lights, cruise control and windshield wiper module that by the way costs $200 aftermarket. GM wanted $280 for it. I ended up buying it from Napa. Mine was shorting out and the turn signals were only working part of the time. I guess that would be ok if I drove a BMW 😉
I've had a 454 that would do the same thing but only after running for long enough to say be at normal operating temp. It was the lack of adequate heat shielding (none) of the starter from the Headman header .
hi watching ur video had the same thing tried everthing to find out it was the whole igniton ur have way there it was the tumler nut the whole ignition think it was around $50 no trouble since
I for the life of me cannot find any how toos on changing the ignition lock cylinder... however, from your video I kinda got an idea on how to handle it...I guess I could have just went and studied mine since it's already torn apart lol... I just had to drill out my lock cylinder cuz my keys and my other suburban were stolen... but I think I messed up the housing cuz it's making a weird noise... and won't turn over when I try to start
i had the same problem with my 1999 Chevy silverado . sensor inside the lock case goes haywire (Passlock sensor failor ).fix was a new lock case. Napa part # ECH KS7718 about $120. Amazon has a Dorman # 924-713 for $78.55. late 99 and newer. you will need GM tool to remove the lock plate adapter, google J-42137 K-M. ebay has it for about $40. some parts houses may rent this. hope this helps youtubers with problem crank want start secuity light flashing. (side note if you think it's the fuel pump. check the pressure .. if it 40 to 55 the pump is working.)
I had to buy a map sensor because I steam cleaned my engine & I had covered the map sensor as I did the cleaning but when I went to use engine dressing like a spray on shine treatment that lasts & sticks to stuff it ruined my map sensor. I replaced the map sensor it was attacked by that shine stuff & had gotten in side of it "sucks" but after replacement of the map sensor it failed again on its own for some reason it got to hot inside & kept turned on even when the car was turned off so it burned itself out. If I was you I would replace yours because I had hard starting problems & I could tell if it got worse it would not start anymore or if it did intermittently. Good Luck let me know how it turns out? PS a cheap way to tell if its your map sensor is to get one from a junk yard & test it!
Mine turned out to be that casing the lock cylinder goes into..i was having the same problem but mine was worse bcuz supposivly when u turn your key theirs a dial right under the cylinder that turns something in the ignition wiring harness that tells is to crank up and what not..but yea ..you may have to order it offline or through gmc their self because autozone/orileys /Napa/bumper to bumper have no clue what that is
I just had accident in my 97 astro and I just wanna replace the steering wheel so I'm not staring at a metal plate anymore, does this entail replacing all steering components?
U said in ur video u had part 2 or more, let me know how to get to them. I have tried everything and about to take off the wheel and replace the lock cy, did u ever fix ur's.
it ended up being my starter it tested good twice then it finally tested bad it's been good for a while now. if you go to my channel and go to my playlist and find my 98 gmc sierra k3500 and all my vids on this truck are there thanks
sorry it's been a long time since i did this and i can't remember i do now that i had to by what they call a reverse torx for this project so if you're having trouble you my need that tool i believe all the torx stuff might have been 15 but i'm not sure sorry again if this did not help
What year is that vehicle? Im wondering because you have the remote lock/unlock correct? I have a 97 Yukon and from when i got it , it only came with the start key and a spare, if my truck is capable of having one of those then I would like to get one
it is a 98 if yours has electric door locks i would think it could have one but i don't know if it came with all models. i actually have a vid that i will pute out next thursday on setting up a new key fob i ordered online because my old one quit working
I have a 1997 chevy k2500. Its supposed to have an airbag but when i popped the steering wheel cover off, no airbag. So idk maybe a previous owner replaced the wheel
that's illegal to sell a car to someone without disclosing that an airbag has been removed you could maybe get the person who sold it to you to buy one if you talk to a lawyer
I almost forgot... Take a wire long enough to reach your starter from the battery on the hot side, (Use a jumper cable ) and touch the post on the selinoid of the starter to see if it will close the circuit and turn over. If it does then over connected directly but not through the switch them it's the bendix.
I know it's been awhile since you've posted the video, but I didn't see any kind of follow up on this. In the unlikely event that this still goes unfixed, I'd check the neutral safety switch by holding the shifter lever up (like 'further into park) as you try to turn the key and/or trying it in neutral. If it's not that, I'd check the switch on the back of the ignition, but the fact that it's going into the run position and turning everything on makes me think it's not that. That harness that you unplugged, is basically a hall effect sensor that's part of GM's Passlock system. There's a little magnet on the ignition and the sensor looks for the magnet to swipe past it as proof that the lock cylinder has actually been turned. If someone were to hotwire the car, it wouldn't see the magnet and would shut it down, but I THINK it's more of a fuel pump shutoff and wouldn't contribute to a complete no-start situation, meaning that it should still crank. Hope it helps!
+Chris Lira (The Almighty Fur) i have an update with the security switch fix but in the end i had an intermittent problem with the starter it tested good then i had them run it again and it tested bad i changed it and so far haven't had a problem thanks for the info tho
+Junk works DIY Garage i am having the same issue with my truck changed the starter and still have same issue. I turn the key 20 times back and forth and it will finally start buy sometimes it gets stuck trying to start and have to turn more to get it to stop. I am in the process of changing the entire ignition assy
+Brandon Ferrell i still haven't had any problems since i changed the starter but i do think i was having an electrical issue before my starter failed i have a vid on bypassing the wire to the starter it might fix your problem hope it helps
interesting. lol i used to have an intermittent issue with a dodge where it wouldnt start. but the difference is. i changed the starter and the problem lasted till i sold it... so idk what the problem with it was. good info. idk if it will count for my 2002 suburban tho lol but never know. chevy often doesnt change much...
Maybe you can help. I've got a 98 silverado that is having starting problems. It cranks fires like its going to start and stalls. Security light stays on steady (never goes off) Replaced the passlock sensor, ignition lock cylinder, ignition switch and Vehicle Anti Theft module. Even replaced the fuel Injectors with updated version. It is acting like the fuel is being cut off. Your videos have helped me thus far so thanks for that
sorry to here that you might look into a fuel pump but i'm not sure that would set of the security light . several people that have commented in the past when i was having trouble have talked about a 10 minute relearn presses but i don't know much about it but you might want to look into it . hope all goes well
it should push back on enough to get the bolt threads and then just use the bolt to pull it in to place but don't tighten too much or you can have interference at the back
@@ZMO999 ime not sure if the tool broke something is not wright i would get an exploded view online of how the parts go back together and make sure everything is in the write spot also check the shaft and make sure there are no burrs on it
inside the ignition housing there is a flat metal spring that will slip out of place, why I don't know.open up the housing and you will see the flat spring all you have to do is hot glue it in place so it doesn't move and when you turn the key it will start.
@@kevinschmidt2301 Hi there, I am fixing my 99 blazer, did you mean you can take our your ignition switch and start you vehicle by just turning the switch? Mine used to crank the engine but died after releasing..now It doesnt even crank, I am thinking I did something with theft deterrent system. Any incite would be gretaly appreciated.
@@Ctrl-Alt-Elite I replaced the key cylinder first because the key and cylinder were worn and than replaced the ignition switch after the starter went out, than the alternator works like new since.
Get New battery cable Ends. & Go get 2 heavy duty Negative cabels Remove Tha old negative cables. Now ground 1 from MoTor,1 from your frame of Tha truck. Guarantee it will Fix it mine would do same thing
Same thing happened to me...original starter Made in USA lasted 12 years, Second starter China lasted 3 years. Replace starter bench test will pass....... but internals are worn JUNK sorry.
If you go to my playlist for my gmc i have a vid were i show how to take out the lock cylinder. my problem was actually the security wire but you should be able to replace your lock cylinder fairly easy if you want .
