Renault Megane 3 How to Change the Diesel Fuel Filter 

Glad it’s helped. Thanks

de nada, gracias!

Your welcome, hope it helps you out.

You cant, its not a cable operated clutch

Thanks. Never done a turbo only exhaust temp sensor near the turbo that had failed causing a DPF blockage.

@@OneAuto many thanks...I find it strange on all the forums I can't find anyone who has personally changed one....mate of mine has the megane 1.5 sports tourer and the turbo shit itself and he was charged £2500 at mate's rates to fit a new turbo due to having to remove sub frame and engine...There is more than a smear of oil in the turbo outlet to intercooler and it may well be on its way out..whilst I don't have a problem removing the engine on my drive I think I will have to suck it and see and try and get it off and see how it goes...👍👍

Richard iv just bought one of these cars and I cant believe youve just said about check injection warning light , thats on mine too!! And the when I put in scan tool it cam up MAF sensor 🤣🤣. Guessing this is a common fault ? Did changing the fuel filter make it go away ??

@@rustybaws5313 Hi David...Changing the filter definitely sorted out check injection waring light.... judging by the condition of the filter I don't think it ever has been changed... but anti pollution light was still on...after repeatedly re setting it for about a week and keeping the revs up in 4th or 5th gear on dual carriageways it finally didn't come back on again...fingers crossed it's been off about two weeks now...it's the wife's car and does a lot of stop/start local runs...👍👍

Glad u liked it. No vid as yet on coolant. Cheers 🍻

Actually, the reason the engine stalled in this video was probably because the low pressure (LP) fuel line wasn't bled out, it was still full of air which had only been merely compressed by operating the bulb pump. You could see the top loop of LP tube was still full of air. As the HP fuel pump relies totally on the diesel oil for lubrication, and operates at extremely high pressure ( once primed), it's very bad for them to be spun over dry. What you should do to actually 'bleed' the air out is pretty similar to brake bleeding; just press the little bleed valve on the top of the LP tube inlet banjo on the HP pump, whilst operating the bulb pump until the tube is full of fuel with no or only tiny bubbles. It's worth making up a plastic bleed tube approx 11mm ID, with a pin pressed through it across the centre approx 8mm from the end, to operate the bleed valve so you can direct the waste diesel into a bucket, rather than all over the engine. You may have to pump quite firmly because the bleed nipple isn't at the highest point, so you need enough flow to chase the air downwards out of that top loop of LP tube. But for your particular problem, it's possible the bleed nipple is leaking air inwards such that when you turn the engine off and the fuel tries to drain down to the lowest point, air is sneaking in through the bleed nipple, but which seals OK under under positive pressure. If you do the bleeding through the nipple, and operate the nipple a few extra times to excercise it, hopefully it will clean itself and seal OK. Also check it's got positive spring closing pressure, when not pressurized. just like a tyre valve. Hope this helps. Good luck. Allan.

@@The007Weasel Thanks Alan for all your help,did exactly what you said.Discovered the bleed pump ball was split on the one end thus sucking in air as you described.replaced with new bleed pump and problem now solved.Thank you so much for your knowledge.

Don't worry about the bubbles. When I changed mine for 4 years ago I was scared about the bubbles too. But it still works great with some bubbles. Regards

Hi did you solved your problem? I have the same issues like you. Bubbles in the fuel line, vibration on iddleing?

yes. same engine.

Sure.. next time I get one in 👍

Thnks man, keep doing these videos, im sure they've helped mant people 👍

Normal over here.

There are often options. I buy all the options and take back the ones I don’t use.

One Auto, I was gonna order off ebay but the options are endless plus when asks what vehicle, mine never comes up! Thanks for the reply...

HaHa tool long.. Glad it helped

It’s the same filter, just screw in the drain and or sensor from your old filter. Your local motor factor will fix you up with the right filter from the cars reg number

@@OneAuto Cheers Rob

ComandanteJ yes

You have to depress the coloured squares to remove the pipe. If access is tight you can buy some special pliers that do just that

@@OneAuto Thanks for replying Rob. The holes are only about 2.5mm square BUT the holes aren't opposite each other. The pliers look like the prongs are opposite each other. Am I missing something? Thanks again, Shaun

Send me a photo of them officialoneauto@gmail.com

@@OneAuto Thanks Rob, will be later in the week. Shaun

It may not have a petrol filter. A lot of petrol cars have in tank lifetime filters

😓 I bought a fuel filter 😂😂 the web site I got if from said it was compatible. 😂😂 I really hope you are right. Thanks a lot for the video. Always helps learning something new.

Empty, then bleed diesel through with the priming ball. See 12:26

One Auto, Thanks! Very nice video. Regards from Sweden :)

Yes very considerate of them. It makes up for the hiding place of the filter.

Piotr Bochenek at 5:20 undo the drain at the bottom of the filter. Any water will be at the bottom of the filter and will come out first.

hi. thank you for quick response. I've done service on my Renault Scenic 1.5 dci k9k (mk3) 2013, I opened the screw and I thought that I did something wrong as diesel (obviously) started coming out. I'm glad that's normal. thank you.

Hasan Kaya The fuel filter intervals in the car in this video is recommended every 36000 Miles. So approx 58000km

You know it!

Better than Ford engineering