Great explanation with the different types of valves. One of my zones stopped working and I determined it is indeed the valve malfunctioning. I will be replacing the guts this week. Thanks for this great vid!
This is why I hit the dumpster at several local sprinkler installers. That has given me a great supply of parts to keep my old sprinkler system running for decades now! Also keep a small screwdriver and torch handy to remove the inevitable broken bleeder screws.
I came across this video during my time of inexperience on sprinkler valves. Thanks for the real life heads up info and comments if someone takes your advice during the repair...It literally can save you a lot of time. Thanks so much Jimmy!!!
I have seen countless videos on this subject. To me you are the most knowledgeable person I have seen so far! Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video, built up my confidence back to the level it was when I started this project. When I bought a replacement valve at a local irrigation supply store they asked why I didn't just have a contractor do it and looked at me like I was crazy. I'd love to be able to save the money... Thanks again!
Thank you so much, I have Hunter and 3 units did not work. So replaced the diaphragm for $5 each and now all are running just fine. What an easy job, clean the outside of the value then remove four screws clean and reinstall.
Thanks for the helpful info. I didn't realize you could repair the valve and not have to replace it. When I turned on the water this spring and tested the valves, this one wouldn't close. I opened the valve and there was a 3/4" pebble IN the valve! I washed off the diaphragm and replaced everything and now all is well. Thanks again for the video! -- Louise from Richland, WA
I just want to say and confirm that he (Jimmy) is very knowledgeable than Rainbird Technical Support. Rainbird had me do the steps of trouble shooting but failed to mention the use of the multimeter and indicated a bad valve. After reviewing the video I called Jimmy from the Florida area, he called the same day and apologize for the delay. I explain my install steps, Jimmy recommended checking voltage and ohms testing, something Rainbird failed to mention as a troubled shooting. I say Jimmy was very helpful.
Just wanted to say thanks. I have the easiest one of those (Toro 53709) and this gave me the confidence to buy a replacement, open it up, swap the spring and diaphragm, and boom, FIXED! My issue was a single zone always running, so while it didn't look damaged, swapping did the trick.
hi there,,,I just got one of the sprinkler valve didn't want to close in the evening for the run 7 min limit. Luckily I found out and manually turned off that valve. Then I found your video ,,,,,other videos were telling to saw off the old valve, glue and coupler the new one in ...TOO MUCH WORK!! With your video, I found that I have the unused valve next to the one needed to repair,,,I follow your video, popped off the top the old one, and replaced the whole inner part and top part of the unused one to the non working one!! Bammmm it works great!! Thank you for your video!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Don't get excited. I am just on my way outside to work on #13!! We'll see if the video not only improved my confidence but also my behavior!!
Great information, great presenter, thank you. Now I will go out and change the solenoid. Already changed the inner parts, but the sprinklers do not shut off. Thumbs up.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Just wanted to let you know that a layman like me with no mechanical skills, who followed your advice, no longer has a valve that will not turn off. Replaced the diaphragm and the solenoid. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for this ray to understand repair. I too, can’t afford to hire an irrigation guy, so I have to trouble shooting amd then try amd research and figure out how to fix it! Hoping thst cleaning the valve is why I’m not getting water on my zone 2! 😇
The worst thing I run into is the fittings being glued next to each other with no room to work with When I install a new system I always leave room between the fittings for a future repair hopefully it is appreciated by the person doing a future repair On inline valves with no room underneath I will cut the valve next to the bonnet on both sides then unscrew the remainder of the valve off the threaded fitting on the manifold This also can work if the inline valves are too close together That trick has saved me many times over the last 37 years being in business You can also take the bonnet off a inline valve and that will give you more room in a tight spot Just depends on the particular situation that you run into
I have a Hunter SRV valve that is stuck wide open. I've tried closing the valve manually, but it just starts making racket when you do that and stays wide open. I suspect it's the diaphragm that's torn letting water just run through it. I'm going to give this a shot and see if I can at least purchase replacement parts to repair the valve rather than replacing it. I was quoted $150 to replace it, so if I can get parts for under $20, that's a bunch of cash saved. Thanks for this video!
good and detailed - the question is since majority of valve boxes are always dirty filled w twigs, bugs etc. When changing the diaphragm how do you properly flush the valve WITHOUT filling the valve box with water?
I would dig out the valve box so that you can dig out from around the valve. Then I have a hand pump that I use and let the water slowly out of the valve. I usually leave one screw in and loosen it until all the water seems to have gone out.
Hello Dear Sir, I just finished watching your video clip, Thanks for sharing your helpful information ! I have difficult to find the new valve that in my system need to be repairers - old times rainbird and I recognize that in to video clip -the one on your very far right setting up on the table top. Where can I purchase it? Would you please advise. Thank you again! Son
Not sure where you’re located but I’d google irrigation supply store near me. Then I’d call and make sure they have before I made the drive. Here in North Texas, I use Longhorn Irrigation.
What is the brand of the first one ......the one you said is no longer available....That you have all together tied up with the plumbing??? Of course...that is the one I have!!!
Thanks for video. Very informative. Would a faulty irrigation valve be the culprit causing water hammer? I have two zones, front yard and back yard. When the back yard zone comes on, we get water hammer in the house pipes, and no flow out of the backyard irrigation. If we turn on faucets in the house before the backyard zone comes on, then no water hammer.
@@sprinklerrepair4L thank you for the reply. I did have a plumber check the pressure. He checked at the street, and at the expansion tank. He said it was within normal parameters
good info, I have done this before but my new house the valve box is surrounded by really hard packed dirt and rocks. I tried to get the valve apart but all but one screw came out, the other stripped and I can get a good grip on it. Might have to keep digging to get down enough to figure out about cutting the whole thing out. Pain in the butt, and I don't have the right tools. Pretty close to calling an irrigation specialist.
I would get a stripped screw extractor. I've had to use one several times, and it's always worked. Also, I always use an impact drill, which helps minimize the stripping of screws. I hope the best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L that might be an easier and cheaper way to try. then I have to hope I can get a new inside parts for this valve. Hope it is still available, have to check to see the brand if I can.
Jimmy thank you for detailed video. I'm trying to replace diaphragm and other internal parts Hunter PGV valve which was installed in 2009 by our builder, but I don't see 4 screws on top. How to locate the screws and open the valve?
You’ll have to get the dirt out. I’d get it clean down so you can see the white pvc pipe so it can stay clean as possible. The bolts are on each corner. I hope the best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thank you for your response Jimmy. We have Hunter Jar Top valve. Zones 3 and 6 used to be on as soon as main water supply was turned on. After changing the diaphragm and solenoid, these two zones still staying on while other zones are running but now it shuts down when sprinkler cycle is complete. I didn't change the spring and other parts. I don't need to keep main water supply off. What else can I do to fix this? Please help!
rekha chandak sounds like you have a master valve and that’s why it’s stopping when the controller stops? A zone running all the time is 1 of 2 things...most of the time it’s the valve. It can also be the controller giving ac all the time, but this happens much less. You can check this with a multimeter. If not it goes back to the valve. I hope the best for you!
I’m not sure to be honest, I would speak with someone who has an expertise in wells. From my experience, we have clients that have both normal valves and scrubber valves. Depending on the minerals and type of debris, will dictate how often maintenance is required.
I am getting a error on my controller that says Check Valve 2. Valve 2 is zone 2. If i turn the valve to the on position then the sprinklers comes on and they work. But they won't turn off unless I manually close the valve. I am think it's the solenoid and I will try to replace just that this weekend and see how it goes.
I really appreciate your videos. I'm trying to plan out an irrigation system for my home. What brand of controler, valves, pop-ups and spray heads do you reccomend. I know you can mix and match, I'm wondering who has the best design, quality and most trouble free for each component. What would you use for your own home if you were starting from scratch?
RT S , I like either rainbird or hunter. If you have a lot of zones I’d go with the hunter hydrawise. Either brand I’d stick with the pro versions. I’d definitely make sure I had WiFi capabilities. I hope the best for you on your project!
I like irritrol valves 205TF $20 each & $10 for rebuild kit. I highly recommend WIFI because that makes it easy to use a computer to setup / backup the schedule, monitor system operation, suspend it if it rains or manage it remotely if away from home on vacation, etc. WIFI is a must!
My daughter has a very slow leak in her sprinkler system. Is there a way to isolate the leaking zone or test each zone by turning off the solenoid valve manually one by one? Great video by the way.
The best way that I know of is to employ someone who has audio equipment that can listen for the leak. Most systems don’t have something that you can isolate each zone independently. I hope the best for you!
awesome video sir , but i have a question , i have a well water pump system for my lawn and it has 4 zones using a meyers pump , its a new pump , using the toro 260 zone valves without flow control , when i put the system on , the pump short cycles in zone 1 only, the other zones work perfectly each and every time , if i take a sprinkler head off , the pump works perfectly , i do that to clear the sand out of the system , is it a bad zone valve ?? i took it apart and cleaned the rust out , does work a bit better , but still at times for zone 1 to short cycle in zone 1 only, is it pressure building up and causing the pressure switch to open and close ??? thank you so much sir for any guidiance
NEED YOUR HELP! I have Richdel "R204 AT" (jar top) valves. Zone (#1) will only work if I first open the zone...then turn the water on (it will close automatically). I read somewhere that I could use parts from an Irritrol 2700 valve but the stainless steel tube is slightly longer & I would have to swap them out. 1. Is this true? 2. How do I do this? 3. Any guidance would be appreciated! Thanks P.S. Good tutorial.
I have never ran into a scenario where the tube is longer. I have ran into situations where I had to use the old Ring lid as the new one is taller and won't seal. If it were me I'd cut it out and installed a new one.
I have a hunter system and 1 out of 3 zones leaks at all times a little. To make sure it didn’t leak all day I have to manually turn the water on and off when I water. I replace the solenoid on that leaky zone and it first the zone was still leaking then I kept unscrewing and re screwing in the solenoid and eventually it stopped leaking. Is this common? After watching your video even though the Leak stopped I’m now concerned it could be the valve. Great video!
Will the valves burst if there’s water in them over the winter (in a place where it freezes every winter)? I assume the answer is “yes.” I have two valves that are spraying water when I open the pipe, so I am assuming that it needs a full replacement instead of a repair.
Yes they will burst if they freeze. Usually they split it. However here in North Texas I hardly ever see underground lines that are frozen. Yes if the water is spraying from the pipe or the bottom of the valve it will have to be replaced. If it is spraying from the bonnet you can steal just repair it with a new one. I hope the best for you!
Why not Dura fittings in your manifold? You can just unscrew the Tee take the valve off and replace it with a new valve? In my area we charge about $90 hr for a service call, now I can give the customer a brand new valve for the time it takes to take a valve apart and fix it. If your valves are fairly new, it can be fixed, however most service calls I get about vales the system has been in 10 years or longer.
Not sure why nobody uses them in this area. I suspect it has to do with cost. I have never ran into any in any of my repairs. I see them at the Irrigation shows though.
Great video. What's the function of little white plastic piece of the 2nd valve from the left (view from audience side) ? My sprinkler does not have water go to the field but shooting out from the valve. I am trying to figure it out. I took the valve off and open it up, could not understand what is the little white piece for. Further, if this piece is misplaced when putting the valve pieces back, what problem will surface? Thank you in advance.
Jimmy...I'm having a 1 zone low pressure problem. After watching your great video I plan on replacing my valve top . any other advice on how to fix this problem? Can 1 clogged sprinkler head effect others down the line? Thanks from The Left Coast!
A clogged sprinkler head usually only impacts that head. The pipe clogging which is not very common could cause that, but usually it’s a leak or the valve. I hope the best for you!
You take calls? That's awesome. My problem is one zone that always goes no matter which zone I run. Call it zone #1. My controller tests good for each of each of its zones - no shorts within the board. I have a master valve and with all zones unwired from the controller, only pump & common connected, voltage to the master valve still results in zone #1 running. I "think" I properly troubleshot that none of my wiring is shorted between controller and sprinkler box (which contains all 4 valves, plus link to master). That should mean the solenoid for zone/valve #1 is simply stuck open. Unfortunately, after taking apart the valve, cleaning all the parts and putting back together, taking care no muck or small pebbles got in the works, same problem. I'm not learned enough to know if the valve was actually bad or not, so took apart another one, stared and compared, and all looked the same. I have a Rainbird controller and my valves also look like the Rainbird in your video. I plan one more check to validate my wiring isn't shorted, then maybe will call you next week!
Feel free to call, but it sounds like a mechanical failure in the valve. I'd find the exact same valve and take the guts out of the new one and put it in yours. Should fix your problem. Make sure the solenoid and bleed screw is closed all the way. The only other thing it might be is the controller giving ac to the valve all the time, but that is less likely. I hope the best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Today, I swapped (the top half of) valve #1 with valve # 2 and found the problem followed the valve. Purchased a 1" Rainbird and ... it only has the small bleed screw. My old valves have that, plus a larger cap-thing next to the screw-top. I assume it won't work (it was getting too dark to try). Take the old bad one into an irrigation supply store to find a match?
@@sprinklerrepair4L Hah! I swapped solenoids between #1 and #2, to see if maybe that's all I needed, and ... now I have two bad valves :-). Swapped back - both still stuck open. I'll probably buy a pair of solenoids next, find those don't fix it, then diaphragms and still be bad, then a pair of complete valves, and at double the total cost and three times the work, plus some luck, finally wrap this one up.
@@squealer42 If you check the ohms, you'll know if it's the solenoid or the guts. The reason I suggest replacing everything is it takes care of it all. I hope the best for you!
Thank you Jimmy; we put in Node 100's in our pasture last summer and this summer a few of them won't shut off, even in the off position. Do you think the valve or diaphragm is clogged?
Thanks for the video, I have rainbird 100-DV valves what should I do when I can't turn the solenoid on my control valves by hand? I tried using a big wrench to turn it counter clockwise but it didn't want to move and I was afraid of messing the whole works up by really pushing hard.
I'd clean out the valve box and make sure the valve is clear of dirt. If it's a newer valve you can turn the little bleed screw counter-clockwise and it will open the valve. You shouldn't have to use a wrench to turn the solenoid. I hope the best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L I believe they are from 2002 when my home was built, so take it apart at the screws and if cleaning doesn't fix, replace the top section with the solenoid attached rather than trying to "bump" it loose with a wrench and possibly breaking water lines ? Thanks for your advice and speedy reply, I appreciate it.
Awesome video, thanks! Would you happen to know if old Rainjet RJ711 valves will interchange parts with the Lawn genie 54000? Parts look identical, I just can't find a definite answer. Thanks for your time.
Sounds like you have a leak in the main line. I'd dig around zone 1 box and then follow whichever way the water is coming until you find the leak. Here's an article about water hammer....www.irrigationtutorials.com/waterhammer.htm
Thank you for your video. What could be an issue if part of one zone isn't working ( drip irrigation zone , no sprinkles ) . I swapped the solenoid , same issue . Should I look at valve itself ?
Hunter Sprinkler System Acting up Changed all valve diaphragms (new from HomeDepot) and solenoids (new from HomeDepot and all in closed position) Tried switching wires from back and front lawn zones at controller and results as follows: 1. Front lawn zone works perfect, no leak at pressure vacuum breaker and starts quick 2. Back lawn zone starts late and pressure vacuum breaker leaks during spray (even after changing wires at controller) After getting information as amateur, there is leak in back yard and i have changed two heads which originally did not come out and spray was minimal. Despite that back lawn still starts late and vacuum breaker still leaks during duration of spray. Maximum duration i manually set for 20 minutes for back lawn, still the same (starts late and vacuum breaker still leaks). You being professional have knowledge and would you please help me in fixing back lawn zone.
Great video w/clear explanations. Thx! One of my zones is not shutting off. It has Richdel 204AT valves. Is there a current valve (irritrol?) that I could buy to swap out the top half and leave the richdel body intact?
Not sure which one that is....if it has the metal band the yes...if it’s the jar top you’ll have to use the old ring...I’d take the top to a irrigation supply shop and see how close you can get. Good luck!
At what point is better to install a whole new system as opposed to repairing an old one that has unknown maintenance history and has existing issues? I have an 8 zone system with at least two leaks points and only 2 zones the are functional. I found one valve box by accident that has four valves in it, the other 4 valve locations are unknown. I am adding up all of the things that I need to do for trouble shooting and it seems like this could be at least a whole day of trouble shooting for a professional probably a few days for me to troubleshoot but spread out over a few months . Then fixing the problems only for more unforseen issues. I did install a new rachio controller but can't use it now because of the new leaks. Zones are leaking even though they're not functioning and disabled I have to manually shut off the main.
Rob S in my opinion, cost wise, the system would have to be in pretty bad shape to justify complete replacement. I guess you can get a quote for both a new install and to repair existing and see what makes sense to you. I hope the best for you!
do you know why my some of my zones seem like they are pulsating? like revving... not a hard spray! all at the same time. head pop up and and down continuously.
I’ve seen this happen with a short that goes in and out at the solenoid or the controller. If you operate the valve manually and it works properly, it’s probably a short somewhere. I hope the best for you!
I just installed an irrigation system with hunter PGV valves. one of the zones was leaking water after the zone ran and causing my meter to run up. When i listened to the valve, it sounded like water was still running. I cleaned the diaphragm and noticed small knicks on the plastic part of the valve. Would this indicate a bad diaphragm seal?
Chase Brunn I’m not sure about marks but it does sound like the valve is not working correctly. As long as your controller isn’t giving AC when it shouldn’t, then I’d change the valve (or guts) out.
My orbit is making a loud humming sound and barely any water pressure. I replaced the solenoid which had a rusting plunger and it’s still having the issues. What else could I check?...
@@sprinklerrepair4L thanks, i replaced all the internals with a new valve. water pressure still very low. Im beginning to think that the original run of pipes is just to long to period.
@@harbinger8083 If you haven't seen it work properly in the past, it very well could be a design issue where there are too many heads on the zone. You can't count the (full head equivalency) of the heads in another zone and see if the one you are working on is the largest demand.
I replaced a diaphragm on my Hunter SRV 1" Valve due to the fact it was leaking. I installed a new solenoid as well. I removed the old diaphragm which was distorted with a new one and all was fine until the next morning when I woke up and the zone where I replaced the diaphragm was running wide open with the sprinkler system shut off (unplugged). Any ideas?
I would just double check and make sure that little nipple that goes above the cell annoyed is in correctly. I usually take a wire and make sure that it is aligned correctly. Other than that you may have to cut out the valve and replace it if it continues to go.
Thanks for the video. I purchased a home and the sprinkler system has about 8 zones. 4 of them are saying short at the main box. I called a sprinkler company who said it's $75 per valve replacement and after that they will need to investigate if the sprinklers are working and that's another $45 per sprinkler replacement and even after that if it doesn't work there will be additional costs. Or I could pay $3500 for a brand new system. Is there any way I can start diagnosing on my own to understand which option to pursue?
If there is a short it won't do any good to change the valve. It could be a connection or solenoid but not the body of the valve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2ycu5qwY_mc.html this video will help you understand more about your wiring.
probably a damaged wire harness you can always run a cheap two wire cord to by pass existing wire and test each zone that way to narrow down the problem. Next, go to the first valve and test voltage if there is non then you know the wire damage is between the controller & valve.
My Toro won't turn off. As soon as I turn the water valve on (water shut off valve in the house) zone 1 turns on and won't turn off via control box. I changed control box in basement... No luck. I'm thinking Toro remote control? Replace them? Should I try replacing the guts first like you suggest?
@@sprinklerrepair4L Hey! Thanks for all your help! Its rare to see someone offer to help someone for free these days. So THANK YOU (Im a firm believer in "A candle loses nothing by lighting another") So, i replaced the inside "guts" of the remote control. It was weird because at one point there were 3 cables connected with an electrical screw-on cap and the one remote was connected to the other remote (its the way previous owner of the house had it set up and its worked for 5 years now). It didnt fix my issue (The back sprinklers would turn on and not turn off as soon as I turned the water valve on). I had replaced the control panel too; So I was out of Ideas. I then DISCONNECTED the rain sensor (bypassed it with the half inch cable provided with the rainbird controlpanel) and everything worked PERFECTLY. I RE connected the rain sensor and I had the same issue. So clearly its a rain sensor issue?? Its like $20 on Amazon so I already bough another one.. but does this make sense to you?
A zone in my system isn't working with the timer. It's uses an orbit in-line valve. I tried replacing all the parts in the valve without removing the valve body, but still doesn't work. I even tried changing the wire color on the solenoid (and the timer), but it still won't turn on. Any other things I might have not considered?
Jorge Pille I’d start by checking the ohms from the controller with a multimeter...between 20-60 ohms is good on the orbit solenoid. That will tell you if you have a wiring problem or mechanical failure like a bid diaphragm or solenoid. I hope the best for you!
I've got a strange one that I just can't seem to nail down. I have 2 rainbird impact pop-ups, (mini-paws), that I just install on an existing line and they will only pop up when I open the bleed screw. I would think opening the bleed screw would cause the pressure to drop but both sprinkler pop up and work fine. I have taken the valve totally apart, tested the solenoid, and cleaned out every little hole I can find but they still won't pop up unless the bleed screw is open which is NOT an option since it would be releasing water 24/7. Any ideas on how to fix this or is it just time to replace the valve? Thanks Bro!
Sattamander X it sounds like the valve isn’t opening fully through the controller. I would get the same exact valve, leave the base in but change out everything else including the bonnet and solenoid. Make sure to clean out the port hole. I hope the best for you!
HELP! My daughter was walking to her car during a really bad thunderstorm and slipped on our green sprinkler system box in front yard. The lid flew off and she fell in all the way up to her thigh. One leg in, one leg out. Her foot came down on a pipe because water was spewing out of it and down our street. A neighbor was able to turn the water off but we need to get this fixed. We have a Rainbird e6c. What is an estimate for a repair like this? We aren't the original installers so unfamiliar with sprinkler systems. Are we talking hundreds or thousands to repair?
Thanks! Once we cleaned up her injury it wasn’t as bad as it looked, just painful. Didn’t require stitches. Found out it’s something called a backflow. Quoted $300-$700 over the phone. Pretty big range if you ask me but I guess there’s certain things they have to factor in. Thought maybe it could be a DIY job but I’m going to call a professional. Are you interested in coming to Frisco Texas 🙂🙂🙂I’m kidding have a good day and thanks for the great videos
Mahogany Belle that price is good if it’s a back flow as they will have to pull a permit and have it tested as well as bring it up to current code if it’s not....so sorry but I just serve the Keller and the surrounding cities. I hope the best for you!
probably over-tightened causing to crack OR freeze crack. Easy repair - use pvc cement to glue in a nipple - it will not be removable but a nipple is a double male so you can screw it in to a union fitting for easy removal.
hi, my low head keeps seeping out water very slowly onto the driveway. ( have rain bird valve ).. I purchased the diaphragm rebuild kit and changed it out butt it is still doing the same thing. what could be wrong? could it be the solenoid has a bad plunger seal? its very slow seep.... thanks
First clean all parts with an old toothbrush & poke holes with a wire, retest and if necessary purchase a solenoid and if that does not fix it - return it and purchase a new valve.
Venkat Gudipoovu assuming nothing has happened to your pressure, if you change the guts out like the video describes or if you change the whole valve, it should work. I hope the best for you!
Ryan J. Solenoid is the electrical component of a valve. The valve is made of several parts to include a solenoid and diaphragm which are the 2 main components we have to replace.
Jesse Luna, if this is happening on the same zone it sounds more like a leak or blockage if 1/2 has full pressure and the other 1/2 has nothing. I hope the best for you!
Hi Jimmy. I have one of my zones where it takes 2-3 minutes for the valve to fully open. Was fine last summer, just a problem this summer. Any ideas what the problem might be?
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks Jimmy. Would it be worth manually turning on the valve (twisting the solenoid by hand) to see if it still takes a few minutes for the sprinklers to fully pop up?
Your local irrigation supply store or Amazon Irritrol 205S Globe Valve Slip Connection, 1" www.amazon.com/dp/B00085E6K2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glc_fabc_KOe.FbS6V4F2V
