Replace Rear Disc Brake Pads & Rotors - Hyundai Sonata 

I suggest everyone read the comments here before doing the job. Removing the small rotor screws will allow the space needed so you do not have to remove shock bolt and bottome bracket bolt , saving alot of time and headaches!! Thank you for the helpful video . FYI - (5:01) 14 mm wrench on the hard to get to bolt. Not 12

Thank You! If I would have done this job on my Sonata without watching your video and not knowing I needed to pull those extra bolts, I would have set my car on fire and bought plane tickets to Korea to cause some extra carnage. You're saving lives.

This is the best of the vids that I have watched regarding replacement of the rear rotors and pads. Nice job, well explained.

I love how detailed you work... a simple rotor change made into art

After fighting with starwheel for a few minutes I watched this a had the first problem solved in 30 seconds. The control arm being in the way of the caliper bracket is a world class PITA. Thanks for the help Eric O.

I just got a quote of $1100 to do all new brakes and rotors all way around my 2011 Sonata. After seeing what needs to be done in order to remove the rear set I can see why its so costly. I think I will do the front set myself as it is straight forward to save $$. I have to say...youre video was excellent, informative, & well shot! After seeing how you did that repair..I wish you were my mechanic! Alot of pre-emptive maintenance done with cleaning and greasing. Thats how its done..great job!!!

I wish I had seen this video earlier. I was changing my rear rotors on the Azera and was trying to find the second bolt for the caliper bracket. What a stupid design to put behind the control arm. I put everything back together and will save it for another day. Great video. Thanks

I did just do a 2013 Sonata, didn't watch this video before that but jacked up with a second jack under the knuckle slightly more than the video and that gave me enough clearance to remove the bolt without having to remove the rear shock bolt. It also removed allot of tension from that arm so its as real easy to align the bolt hole back up. I could move it freely with my fingers.

Not only do you hit all the proper points, you go above and beyond explaining how, why, and exactly what you need. I know it’s an older video, but holy smokes...glad you made this when it came time to work on my wife’s 2012 Hyundai Sonata! And yes...the control arm removal was the most ridiculous thing (mechanically) I’ve seen in some time. 😳

I just started working at a (non-Hyundai) dealership a few months back. I've been learning a lot, but obviously about our make. All of a sudden, I get this 2013 Hyundai Sonata for rear brakes and I have NO IDEA what to do about that lower bolt! You sir, have saved my ass. I've been watching your videos for a few years now, but I haven't had much time lately, since I stopped working a desk job. Again,, you saved me. Thanks Mr. O.

Well, I'm an amateur when it comes to working on cars, and decided to jump in and try to replace my Wife's rear pads and rotors on her 2012 Tuscon. Well that control arm threw me for a loop as nothing like that came up in any of my previous research. Oddly enough it wasn't in the service manual I downloaded either... Thank you so much for filming a quality step by step instruction on how to navigate that obstacle.

Great DIY video. Replaced all four rotors on my 2011 today. Realigning the pin on the rear control arm was a pain. So much so, that I did the other side without removing the shock bolt or the control arm bolt. If you back the caliper bracket mounting bolt out as far as it will go and then remove the rotor screws and break the rotor loose, it will give you just enough room to remove the caliper bracket. It was still a pain getting the bolt screwed back in using the open end wrench, but not as much as realigning the control arm bolt. Saved me about hours worth of labor. Keep up the great work. It was greatly appreciated.

One of the best repair videos I have watched. Detailed, yet to the point. Well done and a big thumbs up!

So glad I found this. I've watched it 4 times and now I know how to do my own brake job on my sonata. Thanks for the detailed video, dude.

thank you so much for a video with great lighting and camera angles. I have done this before and wanted a refresher before I do it again tomorrow and your video was the only one I could find with such great lighting and angles that need to be seen by anyone attempting this job on a vehicle.

I've watched lots of mechanics and non mechanics do brakes. This is the absolute perfect way. I will not be doing this job on my own it looks like a pain. I live in the south so my rotors aren't trashed like that, so I think the best thing would be to pay a shop to replace the pads, and use on on car brake lathe to machine the rotor without taking anything apart.

Best video out there for changing rear brakes on this feat of engineering. Definitely saved me a few headaches. One thing I wasn't able to do is get to the hidden screw without completely dislodging the control arm. In case anyone else out there had to do the same, it's much easier to realign it if you jack it up (the same spot as in the video) and the alignment bar is an absolute must. Probably breaks even with the suggested process since you can then get to the screw with an impact very easily instead of squeezing by.

Thanks so much for this video. Without it, I would have been lost. Removing control links for a router replacement is not usual. Its obvious you have a lot of skill because when i jimmied the control link a half inch, i was unable to wrench the bracket bolt out. That bolt is in a valley, and the wrench could not get enough of it. I ended shearing off the edges on head of the bolt. My solution was to completely dislodge the control link so that i could fit a socket onto the bracket bolt. Once i did that, it came off easily. Then the problem was to get the control link back between the ears of its mate at the end of the job. I started using a c-clamp and banging, but soon realized that i might do some serious damage if i continued. The problem is that the two connections are not aligned. Thats obvious by the way you are able to push it a half inch and it stays in that position. I think this is why some people have big problems with alignment and getting the bolt back through the hole. And thats where your skill is obvious - you did it in seconds, while others (i.e. me) might spend hours or not be able to do it at all. I then tried to remove the other end of the control link from the car body as someone else suggested, but the bolt was in there REALLY tight. Si I abandoned that idea really quickly. In the end my solution was simple, but it could be dangerous if not careful. You mentioned that a floor jack should be placed under the unit to support it (you called it "this" in the video, it's some sort of bushing attached to a large control link), but you said the spring should not be compressed. My solution was to jack upwards and compress the spring. This brought the control link up to its mating surface (the ears). And if you bring the rotor assembly right to where the control link is in its resting position, you will see that the control link is perfectly lined up with the ears. At this point, the control link moves freely between the ears with no friction, so the bolt can be put in by hand. a crow bar can also be used as a lever from the top to push the bolt in if needed. No hammering required. For the shock, the tension has to be released similar to your video. To try and maximize safety, I left the jack in the position you recommend (with very little spring tension) until the very end when i was ready to re-insert the bolt into the control link. That way, the dangerous tension was only there for a short while. I was careful and did not have any problem, but use your judgement when doing this. Those springs are very dangerous. I made sure to never get into a position where i had a body part underneath the tension. On the second brake, i did not waste time trying to do it your way cause i just don't have the skill. Instead, i popped out the control link right away and ratcheted out the bracket bolt. Im guessing my approach added about 10 minutes to your time (everything else being equal). The second one took me about 2.5 hours. The first one was double that. But im anal with the cleaning and greasing and overthinking. I would make no money at this :) Again, good job and thanks for the help.

The was the best video for replacing the rotors on my 2012 Sonata. The steps are exactly the same. I had never even changed a tire before and following the steps I was able to replace the pads and rotors. Oh my god Hyundai made this a huge pain in the A$$!. THUMBS DOWN! That single bolt being inaccessible makes the job twice the effort if not more. Anyways, learned a lot and feel proud to have saved hundreds and changed the pads and rotors myself. BTW, I don't have power tools so the job is much more difficult than the video. Make sure you have a breaker bar.

Used this video for my 2014 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid Limited. Watched this about 5 times. Was following directions(everything smooth as can be) stuck get trying to get the rotor loose for about 2 hours. Trying almost anything I could without damaging anything. Then I had an amazing idea ( TAKE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE OFF ) came right off! Then reassembled and turned out wonderful. Will do the other tomorrow and the front axle pads/rotors as well. LOVED YOUR VIDEO SIMPLE&EASY to the point. 🤙👍👍👍

Excellent video as usual, thank you! I use a needle scaler on my air hammer for rust. Also, I put that bolt back in from the outside so that next time I won't have to remove the shock bolt.

Great video! I worked at Kia and the optimas and sorentos were the same way, I just took that control arm all the way out and kept the shock on. You can punch that bolt out with no damage to the shock. Then just put the bolt back in on the opposite side for the next guy 👌🏼👌🏼 but they do suck, I feel your pain brother!

This is where you are doing videos of the family. Which is a good thing.Thanks S.T.W.

Thank you! I'm new to repair work on a 2009 Kia Sedona, and the direct available videos for the brake pad changes are quite unhelpful, on critical issues. I was really mystified that I couldn't get the pads to slip back into caliper slots, even after putting in new hardware. Other videos skip or gloss over this step, yet your video here anticipated the problem and offered solutions in advance. Learned a lot from you, yet again. :-)

I just serviced the back brakes on my 2013 sonata and was pissed to say the least to see the 2nd bolt hidden on the caliper. Thank you so much for the video and when i need to change the rotor, now I know how to do it.

There is only one thing missing in this video.. Soft music playing in the back ground... I can be your hero baby.... I can take away the pain. Well done buddy terrific job explaining to a DIY guy such as myself. To the point and 100% to detail I'm hitting that like and subscribe button right now🎉🎉🎉🎉

This video helped out a lot when doing the rear brakes on my 2011 Sonata. I just couldn't get the bolt loose with a wrench and had to lower the control arm and use a breaker bar. The problem was putting the control arm back in was a huge pain, but after finally figuring it out the other was a breeze. Using that tapered punch was a lifesaver. Hope I never have to rear brakes on this car again!!

I have two questions if anyone can answer them: 1) At 7:54 what type of lube is sprayed into the parking brake mechanism? Doesn't that general area get too hot for common lubricants? (answered below) 2) At 16:20 he used an old brake pad and channellock pliers to push the brake caliper piston in. Does that mean you do *not* need to use a special rotating tool on a Sonata? I have a 2016 Sonata which is a 7th gen model (2015-present) but I am sure most of this content is still the same. I'm so glad some other comments here mention that they re-engineered that one caliper bracket bolt to be easily accessed on the newer Sonata models! ********** Edit to include my own findings which answer question #1 along with other products he used: From a random internet source, during normal street use an average car's brakes likely won't exceed 392 F. During racing use the brakes got to around 932 F. I say this because certain products aren't rated for certain temperatures. The purple brush-on lube looks like "Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant". The internet (if correct) specifies it can withstand temperatures of -65 to 3000 F. It's odd because the product description says it can be brushed on the slide pins *but* the reviews say it is for metal-on-metal use only and will eat away rubber. I'd suggest something like "3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste" for the slide pins. The red anti-seize spray is called "Castle Muscle Grease". The MSDS is kind of hard to read so I think it is either rated up to 182 F (boiling point) or 720 F (Auto-ignition temperature - whatever that means). He shows it 15m40s into his Suzuki XL7 video. The spray lube he uses for the parking brake mechanism is likely Fluid Film. He shows it 32m56s into his Suzuki XL7 video. The internet (if correct) specifies it can withstand temperatures of -50 to 350 F with a flash point of 405 F. Link to Suzuki XL7 video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-00LCvz9lC5M.html

This was really helpful and my 2010 Sonata didn't has the issue with the strut being in the way so it was very easy. I probably wouldn't had taken the time to clean up the groves and replace clamps without watching. Thanks again.

This is honestly one of the best instructional videos I've seen. Thank you for being so thorough and informative. You got to the point and explained what you were doing and why. I subscribed.

I appreciate the tip on dealing with the rear control arm. I'm glad that I don't have to remove it completely from the assembly. Thanks for your effort and willingness to share your knowledge.

No need to unbolt the shock. If you compress the suspension with that jack it will move the shock just enough to slide bolt out. Just finished the job. Thank you for the great video!

nice job. good viewing angles, good narrating, good simple explanations. best i've watched on this. keep them coming!

Great help, thanks. So well filmed, and made simple. So much attention to detail that one would only normally get doing one's own work. I have a 2013 Sonata with the right rear wheel and brake assembly heating up with attendant burning smell, so I thought I'd take the rotor off to have a look. I was stuck at the removal of the lower assembly bolt. My 2007 Sonata had a conventional layout. They call that progress ;)

Great video, though I was scared off by the part where it requires taking apart some of the rear suspension to get the caliper bracket off. I found the solution in the comments. There are about 5 where people didn't have to mess with the suspension , but Jesse K's gave the most detail. Basically, get the tire, caliper, and break pads off, and then break the rotor free. Then remove the easy caliper bracket bolt. Then use an offset ring wrench/spanner to loosen the hidden bolt, finish backing out with an open-end wrench and fingers. Once the bolt threads are out of the caliper bracket body, take a screwdriver and pry open the gap between the caliper bracket and the suspension and slide the caliper bracket off. The rotor is then free to remove. The bracket goes back on pretty easy after replacing the rotor, but may need to pry again to get it started. Incidentally, I didn't mess with the parking break star-wheel adjuster and the rotor came off fine. How do you know when the star-wheel is correctly set? Thanks!

Top notch video. Would not have been able to do the rear rotors without it. And my brake pads won't wear unevenly and end up looking like doorstops, because I used the sandblaster like you recommended, and they now slide properly. I wonder how many mechanics take that extra 5 minute step to do a quality job?

Excellent presentation, you go step by step where most people would get stuck. I wish I lived closer to you ,I would bring all my cars to you. If you ever in Orlando Florida ypu have customers here.

I spent four years working on the shop floor as an hourly employee of General Motors, in the Oldsmobile factory. For a I made 3,600 air-conditioner pump-brackets. Three bolts held them to the engine block, covering the #5 spark-plug. This was pre-platinum, and the spark plugs needed their gap set every 6,000 miles. We had nothing but scone for the engineer who designed this bracket. Oh those were the days! A tune-up consisted of changing the oil & oil filter, greasing everything, setting the spark-plug gap, resetting the timing, and rotating the tires. This was 1974, and the tires were *not* radial, but bias-ply. There was *no* synthetic oil, and the oil degraded significantly in 6,000 miles. Everybody in the factory had utter scorn for any car owner who did not get the specified oil change. My building was attached to the engine factory, where they machined the engine parts, and assembled the engines. My future wife reamed, to a high tolerance, the connecting rod bolt holes.

A simpler way to adjust the parking brake adjuster is: (Same procedure for rear passenger and driver) To Losen: Use your 90 degree pick to PULL at the bottom on the adjuster gripping poles To Tighten Use your 90 degree pick to PUSH at the bottom on the adjuster gripping poles To make a pick get a cheap relatively thin (Not to thin) screw driver from the dollar store. Cut off the tiip and bend it 90 degrees. Great Video it helped me immensely today. It was a pain to do but not impossible as a driveway backyard mechaniic.

i have learned the hard way that driving bolt for control arm can break that ear off of knuckle (nightmare) there is a sort of guide point on bolt and i have found with air ratchet if available u can sort of screw the bolt back in and reduce disaster . also pulling down on a pipe wrench on lateral arm thing can assist in aligning two units for bolt. very well done video i will subscribe and certainly view your other vids. every day i see these engineering gernades with no pins!!!

Great video. Our 2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring has the same set up and we were getting held up with the hand brakes being stuck on the rotors. Thanks for the great detail. Although, to get the hidden caliper bolt off used a box wrench and cheater wrench/bar. Takes a long time, but saved us from taking those two big bolts off. Thanks again. We will definitely be watching more of your videos. Keep up the good work, it is greatly appreciated.

Is a pleasure watching you work, you make the hard work look like easy work. Two thumbs Up

Thanks for the tip! Got this done yesterday. Managed to get the control arm bolt out with no air tools. Was just going to slap pads till I found this.

I like the video, but I didn't have to disconnect the shock to remove the control arm bolt or to reinstall it on my 2013 Hyundai Sonata Limited. I guess I just got lucky. Fortunately, I'm a logical guy and figured out that I had to remove the control arm before I watched your video. Your video was a good peer check for me to know that was the correct way to do it. Thanks. Keep publishing and charge those people who forget to put gas in their car and extra hour of labor!!!

Nice Video! I work on my sons 2012 Sonata and I went to remove that lower bolt and since it was only 20 degrees in my garage, I put the wheel back on and told him to wait for a warmer day. Today I replaced the Alternator (Give me ANY 60's or 70's vehicle, which used to take about 15 minutes) and Tie Rod. If You ever do a video for the Alternator on a 2012 Sonata with a 2.4l, it would be greatly appreciated. That said, I greatly appreciate this rear brake tutorial. I was going to completely remove that 'control arm' but now I can avoid that mistake.

One of the best DIY videos I've ever watched. Very informative. helped me on my Kia Optima. Thank you!

Absolutely a great video from a great teacher! I loved the level of detail, the tips you offer. Wish I have seen it before I replaced the first time the rotors and pads the first time. And, yes, thumbs down to Hyundai for the design (still remember how simple it was to do the job on a Mazda Protege or a Suzuki Esteem).

I just wanted to thank you for telling me about the e-brake thing. I am in the midst of doing my brakes and rotors and have been wondering what that rubber plug was. I have watched 3 other videos on here on how to replace brakes and rotors and not one of them have said nor mentioned anything about this. Great video. You are very precise. I learned several more things on here. This is my 5th time doing brakes and rotors but first with my kia. Boy did the S Korean's screw up with that one bolt placement!! UGH!!

Great video! I am glad I viewed this before I started my brake job...a little more of a PIA than most, but now I know what troubles lie ahead. Thanks!

Came to your RU-vid channel to see how you did it and I couldn't believe Hyundai would actually design the calipers like that I'm sad to see I was right. Thanks ks for the video!

i just did this to my 2013 Sonata yesterda. without your video, i would not know how to replace that bolt. first time i see a car maker do a bolt like that. what were they thinking? must be smoking or very high during the design. but i just wanna say thank you so much for all of your videos and all that you do, sir! lots of respect for you. i liked and subscribed. please, continue posting more videos.

Great video. Probably one of the best I've seen. Good lighting, clean tools, clean work area and knowledge of subject.

Just stumbled on your video.thanks for a no nonsense straight forward approach to getting the job done!Keep up the great work, you really helped me out.

It’s crazy that u need to move the control arm and shock just to get to the rotor nut. I was so hard to turn the nut with a wrench once I move the arm and shock. It was really hard putting it back. I’m glad u said not to remove the arm. I wouldn’t have gotten it back on if I removed it.

Eric my man! you are my favorite garage youtuber. Normally i watch you just for entertainment but today i followed this tutorial. Was a little harder to do on the ground with a floor jack but i got er done

Excellent! I already did the brake job on my Hyundai Sonata 2011 but I needed a video like this to confirm I did everything done the right way. Next time I will look at the video BEFORE...lol About that hard to remove bolt- Why easy when it can be difficult. Thumbs down Hyundai.

"And remember viewers, if I can do it, you can do it." Fun to watch the older videos.

You always have the best videos. You get right to the point 95% of the time.

I just finished fronts and rears on my 2014 Sonata. The fronts took an hour. The rears took me 2.5 but would have been longer had I not watched your video. I completely disconnected the control arm from the knuckle so I could get a 6 point socket on that hidden bracket bolt. I used a bottle jack to manipulate it back into place

Thank you for your videos. I’d like to own a DIY Auto shop someday. I really enjoy working on cars. They are like puzzles or adult-size model cars you can drive.

Thanks....checking my Hyundai Veloster to see if they redesigned that bolt that was a little more work to remove. Awesome! Pulling out my tools to change the discs today, with pads of course

Great video!!! Everything you said made sense and all the little things you brought up that’s priceless. You forgot one more thing that you taught us about changing the rear brake pads, just take it to a mechanic who knows what he is doing. I don’t want to mess with the suspension, it’s already gonna take me at least three hours to change, then add rear springs, No thank you. I just change my front pads everything‘s all OK. If you were in Northern California I would use you all day long. Again thank you I information is very helpful

Thanks for the vid - saved me a trip to the shop due to a stuck rotor!

Engineers should be forced to work on their designs at some point.

Thanks a lot on posting of video with instructions. I was able to follow your instructions and remove the rear rotor on a 2001 hyundai donate and to my surprise the rear parking brakes needed replacement.

Excellent video..mentally prepared me for the ridiculous Hyundai engineering added extra step. Wasn't as hard and didn't take as long as I thought it would. Having an impact wrench helps and follow the video. 2nd 1 took a 1/3 of the time. A few bolts were on tight and 1 rotor was stuck pretty good. Thanks

One of the best instructional video I have ever seen. Awesome job and thank you for doing these.

Absolutely a fantastic video on how to do the rear brakes on the Sonata. Very clear and precise instructions. Keep up the great work!

Thanks a lot on posting of video with instructions. I was able to follow your instructions and remove the rear rotor on a 2001 hyundai donate and to my surprise the rear parking brakes needed replacement. By the way on the 2001 hyundai it was easier to take everything off without have to move shocks or frame supports.

Hi Eric..Thank you for your videos once again..about the rear upper control arm using a second jack on the suspension and it soon falls into place by it's self..just like that..my regards to your family hoping you are all in good health always..!!

Excellent video. Thank you SO much. It was nice to know about that engineering gotcha beforehand. I also picked up an impact driver and it came in handy as one of the screws was rusted in place. You saved me time and frustration. Greatly appreciated.

Ok great. Thanks for the reply man. That Camaro SS cat back looked like a good clean install. Sounded nice!

Like you,I'm in the trenches every day and this is the first time I have seen anyone do a brake replacement the way I would do it. Sign it the office states that that if a customers car runs out of fuel on a road test we will leave it right where it stops and from there it's shop rate per hour to get fuel and/or a tow back to the shop.

Worked on removing the control arm until 7 last night...can't access that stupid bolt!! Ok so now I've had the second cup of coffee this morning. I'll give it a try again. Oh, did I mention you make it look so easy!! lol

This video helped me replace my rear rotors and pads yesterday. Thanks so much. Didn't have never seize but I may go get some and Jack the car back up. Won't take me long now that I know what I'm doing. Thx again.

Thank you for sharing my brother! Excellent quality and detail . I already have everything off but the rotor and i think the parking brake adjust and a heavier hammer will complete the job!

Best video and explanation I have seen on a brake job EVER! Thank you!

great vid. I just did replaced pads n rotors on a 2015*. After watching this vid I was expecting a long day but this new model has the control arm away from the caliper bolts. lucky me

Eric ,I can't tell you how many times I've gotten into a car only to see that there is NO GAS.Great job on the video

Glad I watched the video...I was gonna do the brake job myself but, damn, wth was Hyundai thinking? Thanks for posting!!!

Sonatas changed quite with regard to the body style from 2010 to 2011. Don't know about the other aspects of the car. Just wondering if you knew that the "hard to get to bolt" was the same on the 2010. Excellent video. Thanks for helping people out!

Great video Eric! These days it seems one can't wrench on a car without looking it up, just to see what they had to screw with to make the most mundane jobs all the more fun. I removed the control arm bolt, pried it apart so that I could attack the bracket bolt, and all was fine. Left the shock alone. Ratcheting wrench is a must here. Put the top bracket bolt back in and then the bottom bolt can be wiggled back in. I picked up some "alignment bars" from HF (think a shaft that is turned into a point on one end) to line things up afterwards for that control arm. Unfortunately I had to do it twice: while the pistons pushed in just fine, three months later it all had to come apart again: the phenolic pistons froze. No joy in Mudville for me. Hoping second time is the charm (although the way it's rusting I'm wondering if I won't be doing flex lines before long--it's a friends car, so no Fluid Film here). On the good side, I bet no inspection shop checks the parking brake shoes on these cars.

I don't understand why Americans know its a disc brake but insist on calling the brake disc a rotor. Makes me titter. Another great video by Eric.Keep 'em coming.

Excellent video. Thanks very much for taking us through the whole process. I'm doing mine in a couple of days. I'll let you know how it goes!

Very informative thank you. I had to take the whole rear arm off to get it back together, what a pain. It twist if it comes all the way out, like mine did. I found it easier to put it back on once I removed the bolt that fastened it to the car. Thanks for the great info keep it up!

Nice video. Very detailed. Wish I saw it sooner. But I was able to get the 2nd bracket bolt out without removing the shock bolt. Then aligning the control arm wasn't to bad. I just used a pry bar.

Thank you for the video, definitely helped with preparing me for the job

Absolute best video out there for Sonata rear brakes! Thanks!

Great video. Changed out the rear brakes in no time.

The trick I've been looking for... An allignment bar! I've been looking at these vids and I knew there had to be an easier way to get the hole to line back up. There's a special place in hell for Hyundai for putting this mess. Thanks bro!

Great video. You did a very good, detailed job, but in the real world, these mechanics don't work like that they are very slapped.

Thank you for the video. I was able to use the video to help me replace the wheel studs.

You did a great job on that Sonata. I usually or mostly do all my own work. But I would let you do the work on my car. Im picky and dont generally trust mechanics but, damn, good job.

OUTSTANDING video. Extremely thorough and great pace. Thank you so much!!

thanks,I'm just getting ready to replace the brakes which I've had for some time on an 08'sonata.possibly the hose to on the pass.rear as I ran over a piece of 2x4 someone left on the on ramp for me and now is leaking at the pass rear caliper area.doesn't seem like it should be the caliper but I have it in case.again thanks for the preview

Late to the party here, but I just replaced the rear rotors thanks to you Eric. The only question is what difference does it make to put the upper control arm bolts backwards? I'm very curious, because I did that. Is it about the exposure of bolt threads? Anyway, that video was a huge help. Thanks!

Man, you are a slick mechanic!!! This would be a 4 hour, 5 beer job for me with about 50 cuss words!! Stupid engineering doubled your time, and u are slick!! I don`t have that huge, tapered allignment tool, just my bloody knuckles!! My sons are engineers!! They are smart; they must do this stuff on purpose to frustrate home mechanics!!! Thanks for an excellent vid!!

Great instructional video. I've worked on my own cars for a very long time and have done numerous brake jobs, but would have been pulling my hair out trying to get the caliper bolt out that hides behind the shock and the control arm. Do you have a video for the front brakes and rotors of the same vehicle?

Have a 2013 sonata didnt take any thing loose on suspension ..remove caliper.loosened rotor by removing two keeper screws ..removed uppet caliper bracket bolt..you can get a 12 mm wrench on lower bracket bolt loosen and back it out until head hits bushing keep loosening until it is out of bracket bolt stays in pkace .use a large flat screw driver or pry bar, slide it next to where the bracket and bolt are .pry it about 1/16 and slide bracket up and out rebuild bracket with grease at appropie spots.put back in reverse make sure new rotor lines up with scew holes slide rotor on after cleaning e brake..put bracket and just bumped bracket with my hand and popped right back in where lower bolt lined up with lower hole .started lower bracket bolt making sure not to cross thread .put top bracket bolt in then tighten both .put screws back in rotor .put brakes and caliper back..didnt remove any bolts out of suspension save alot of time and headache

Great instructional video. You make it look simple. Thanks!