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Your videos on timing belt replacements are excellent. I replaced the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and idlers on my Mk5 2.0 TDI motor a few weeks ago with some reference to one of your past videos dealing with the BKD motor. The job was straight forward, no issues. I went carefully and it took me a full day. Many thanks for putting these videos up.
Excellent video, extremely helpful in enabling me to do the timing belt on my 2.0 TDI DFGA engine. The workshop manuals are not always obvious in what they instruct you to do, so seeing you do it made things much clearer.
Use spanner and brutal force. Make sure that the grip is good. Also they sell sockets for these sensors, they look like a normal long socket, but with the cut on a side for the wire.
Thanks so much for this very helpful video! I've just replaced the cam belt and water pump on my 2015 Skoda Yeti 1.9 4x4, which has a similar engine (CUUB), without a hitch. Trust me when I tell you, this would not have been possible without your video! Many thanks again.
Thank you so much for the detailed explanation of how to properly set the timing. No other video I've seen has a good explanation of this, just people doing it the quicker/easier way and not properly. I got into a spot where my play was not perfect, and every time I applied the tensioner I think I was also hitting against the limit of the cam or fuel pump sprocket. I wish I'd seen this before I was in my engine for the second time. Thanks again.
You're very welcome 👍 You are right. There are so many people doing shortcuts, even mechanics in garages that are paid to do it right. Your car remains yours - it treats you as you treat it.
Super informative and clear, well done for an awesome video. I am doing this job next week, just looking for some pointers and tips. You gave me everything i wanted and more.
On my mothers iPad.. Superb educational video, many thanks for guiding me through a successful cam belt change this afternoon. Maybe worth mentioning that tensioner gadget needs to be spun around to find the correct orientation for max belt looseness when fitting? However, excellent video.
Здравствуйте. Спасибо за Ваш труд в видео. Могу заверить, что более подробнее и точнее никто не показывал как устанавливать ремень ГРМ на данном типе мотора. Всë чëтко и ясно! Молодцы! Но. У себя на моторе (такого же типа, как в Вашем видео) переустанавливал ремень ГРМ - менял топливный насос ввсокого давление. Всë делал как Вы рассказывали. После сборки и пробной поездки вылезла ошибка P0341 - Датчик положения распредвала - недостоверный сигнал. Посредством сканера VCDS увидел следующее: "Электроника двигателя" - "Измеряемые величины"- "Адаптация распредвала впуск ряд 1 длина фазы 13,5 °. Т.е. положительное значение в градусах, равное 13,5. Это много? Какой должен быть показатель? Мотор вроде работает нормально. Что делать? Заранее спасибо.
Я очень рад, что вам помогло моё видео, но, к сожалению, я не смогу помочь с возникшей проблемой. Видите ли, я вообще не механик. Я таксист и программист-любитель 🤭. Мои видео достаточно базовые - сервис, ремни, торомоза, лампочки... Я не имею опыта с заменой ТНВД, без понятия об углах распредвала. Я бы мог поискать в интернете на форумах, но, полагаю, вы лучше с этим справитесь. Извините, и удачи!
Absolutely excellent descriptive video. First one where it has been mentioned that the engine mounting bolt(s) should be renewed or indeed any torque plus turn bolt. Thankyou. Regards Stephen
Really good video, have this job to do myself for the first time in a couple weeks on the audi 2ltr tdi (CRLB), have the manual for the golf with same engine code so should be the same procedure just waiting on the timing tool kit to arrive. Will definitely be watching this through a few times before hand
Absolutely stellar job making this video, well lightened in focus and good sound. Thanks very much. Now since my Skoda have a temperature problem.... I read someone mentioned that the waterpumps are designed (very) wrong. The regulated types are said to be normally closed so to say, meaning they need electrical power to start pumping. Of course that is a foolish way to design a waterpump for a car, it is said that the replacement pumps are -as it should be- normally open, meaning is case of electrical failure , it pumps at full potential. I cannot find any info about this but it make sense although the steering of the pump must be changed then too, it should require some reprogramming I would say. You know anything about this?
Exelent video Very well explained . Id feel very confident folling your lead. One small thing The crank seal in the plastic unit looks like its leaking
Hi, thank you so much for your educational video! !!! I do have one important comment !!! If this is a DFHA engine, it also has a toothed belt on the oil pump, that requires the sump to be taken out and this belt to be replaced as well. As this can only be replaced if the timing belt is also removed. It is not a factory requirement to replace the oil pump belt, but is strongly recommended, as if it breaks, the consequences of engine damage are huge as there is no more lubrication. By the way, this is oil pump with integrated vacuum pump. 😉
@@wawayltd I hope it's not too late before the next time. Yes the sump has to be removed. You can only renew this belt if the timing belt is taken out, because the crankshaft pulley must also be removed. Do not forget to renew the crankshaft pulley bolt. There are videos about it here, this one is pretty detaild ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ieKJn5J8pFo.html
@@ivomihaylov9814 every ea288 engine has a toothbelt oil\vacuum pump and you don't need to worry about snaping it , you will get a warning from the low oil pressure sensor right after .. i replaced on mine cuz i did clutch and the 2 main seals and the belt was very cheap . Theres no changing interval defined by vw and they are lubricated , so it most likely last 300+k km or more
Loved your video and wished I followed your video, find myself with an out of time engine following a timing belt, water pump, and auxiliary belt change. Just after some advice please: to get the crank and cam timed together again, is it just a case of locking the crank, loosening the bolt of the cam shaft and the small screw, and then using the special tool to turn the sprocket back in alignment with the hole in order to fit the timing pin in? Noticed in your video that you placed a drill bit in the cam shaft timing hole but to get the high pressure pump in the right position, you used the special tool to turn it back do the pin can be fitted. Basically, is that the same process for the cam shaft? Many thanks.
You don't have to slaken bolts on camshaft sprocket while aligning it for timing if belt is off, you can do it while fitting the belt. If the pin fits like that - perfect, if not, but it's just a little bit off, then you can try to do same adjustments as I show at the end of the video with loosening bolts on the sprocket. If it's off quite a lot, you can remove the belt and turn the sprocket whichever way it needs to go. Make sure that you don't attempt full camshaft turn with belt off and locked crankshaft, you probably won't be able to because of the valves, just turn it the way it needs to go. It's pretty easy once you get how it works. Yeah, I use 5.5mm drill bit, because it's easier to fit than that 6mm pin from tool kit. That's cheating, but, personally, I believe it's not a big deal.
Great video mate. I was getting ready to do mine on the weekend. Is the nut for high pressure pump 24 or 27 socket. If it is 24 I have ordered the wrong one.
Thanks Serkan. I don't remember now, but I think I mentioned it in the video.. Get the whole set, if you DIYing on your car, it's worth to have variety.
Another really great DIY video on TDI platform motor, I really enjoy your techniques (by the service manual) and you set torque specs where its most important as always, I enjoy all of your content and your PDFs, your information is beyond valuable. I noticed you didn't lubricate the o-ring on the new water pump, you mentioned never with grease, I think you meant never with petroleum based grease. I think it should be lubed some with a silicone grease like for brake slider pins, that would be ok on rubber. I wouldn't want to install with a dry o ring and even the G13 coolant doesn't offer much lubrication. Best to use silicone. Also, should you use blue loc-tite on all the components due to the vibration of diesels? I have heard varying opinions on loc-tite but I would think its best on all new threads, looking for clarification. Great video, please keep them coming
Thanks for your comment 👍 I'm not as professional as you presenting me 😉 All I can say that from a little experience I have: 1. The grease. Water pumps stopped leaking since I stopped using it. Maybe silicone based grease is good, I haven't tried it, but also I don't feel need. 2. Same with thread lock - never had problems. In addition, one mechanic told me not to use it at something that goes into engine block. He said that it will "cook" there and you can have trouble getting it out next time. That's my humble opinion. I may be wrong.
@Danidasanic Brilliant advice, I brought a 6 year old Octavia Scout from a Skoda dealer, on driving home I noticed the heater was naff Luckily the dealers were very professional and sorted the issue out "Gel bag burst" They ended up replacing the heater matrix "blocked solid" the water pump and 2 valves in the coolant system and flushing through for an extended period Great dealer and 12 months on the heater is piping hot I did ask if I had paid for the repairs myself and they advised the cost well over £1000
Hello, does the switchable/electrical water pump need to be programmed to the ECU after the installation, or just plug and play? Thank you. Great tutorial 😊
excellent video just purchased the same timing kit as you use hope it fits the euro 5 engine as I have to do my yeti 2013 thans for the video its great. when I do mine I thin I will remove top plastic cover after I remove top engine mount what do you think once again a very big thank you brgds ron
Hi Ron! I think that 2013 Euro 5 may have slightly different setup. Probably something like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Tke2oHYHgoM.htmlsi=jf5s2McqDXieACt-
Thank you for the video, very helpful. I have one question though, I can fit the crank pin and camshaft pin but the high pressure pump is just off, I cannot fit the pin properly. Is there anyway to adjust it and make it fit without removing the belt again? The lines seem to align well like you said in the video, I just cannot fit the pin.
Hi! top cover hard to come off because on the back of the top cover have a silver small cover need to remove first ,it's just one bolt on top ,just will be no crack to remove! hope this help!
Your attention should have been drawn to the oil leak from the crank seal, it has obviously failed. That need replaced asap. Another thing, the manual does not ask for loctite, adding it will cause a false torque as you have technically lubricated the threads. Apart from that it’s nice to see someone actually slackening the fuel pump and cam pulleys before fitting new belt.
@@wawayltd the way I see it is, vw have spent millions on RD so we just have to trust their procedure. In the service and repair manual some of the torque specs specifically say “do not additionally oil threads or collar”. Do you have the manual?
@TheMxrrab Yeah, have the manual. A long time ago, one mechanic showed me his way of replacing cambelt on my Audi, then I did the same (with loctite) on a couple of VW's, then on a few Seats and Skodas... I suppose it's my bad habit 😁 I'm just thinking, it's not quite lubrication, even torque on a wet can be a bit different. However, after that it works like a glue. We don't want our cambelt tensioner to be undone unexpectedly.. I'm not saying it would, if done by manual, just something that worked for me, and I keep going. By the way, I have noticed that manuals don't like mentioning torque for the tensioner stud going into engine block. Apparently, it's a tricky one, and they don't want to take responsibility.
@@wawayltd everyone’s different at the end of the day. I just try stick as much as possible to the procedure. I have heard of a few studs sheering whilst being driven, possibly due to the torque spec not be adhered to or maybe a cheap timing belt kit. For the studs on the tensioner and bottom idler they should counter locked with two nuts and tightened to 15nm. The top idler bolt is 20nm. Love the videos btw, keep it up 😊
Someone in the comments said that my crankshaft seal is bad. I got a new one, and on my next cambelt change, I will replace it. I still didn't figure out where exactly it's leaking. I have steam washed the engine, but still no idea. Could be rocker cover as well. Here is the video on that crankshaft seal: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fQwFNZ13a7Q.html
Well I didn’t know these had two belts!!! I’m getting a slight squeak on my 2015 Octavia mk3 1.6tdi. not sure where it’s coming from. Had cambelt and water pump done last year and I’ve had new tension pulley and belt done recently!
Great video very thorough. I'm struggling to find the manual on your website for the skoda. I have a 2 ltr tdi. What is the title of the manual in your library please?
Sorry, Dan, I didn't make a manual for my last few videos. They are quite time consuming and majority of people don't seem to need them. In fact many people don't even know that I have a website 😁 You are the first one to ask since the video was released. There was someone asking about links for tools.. Depending what year is your Skoda, if it's older, you can use manual and video that I made for Sharan 2.0 tdi. And one more thing. I just got another Skoda, I will do cambelt for it soon. I don't think I want to support the engine by jack from the bottom. It's my personal conspiracy theory that sump seal may develop a leak (my previous Octavia had a slight oil leak, I couldn't figureout where exactly). One mechanic said that it's not because of that.. However, on my next one I will use either support beam, or engine crane.
@wawayltd OK thanks I'll have a look at the Sharan video. And cheers for the heads up about the jack under the sump. Hoping to tackle my first timing belt soon.
I have replaced on my golf 7 1.6 tdi following your video , but after replacing and start the engine and geve some more rpm , then it makes noise like bearing can you tell me what should be that sound , and yeah I retight the belt adjust it again and checked belt and tensenier but I could not fine the issue , if you don't mind I can send you the video of noise , thanks alot
Hello, I don't think that I will be able to diagnose what makes that noise by watching a video, sorry. Maybe one of the pulleys? Try to show it to some local mechanic?
Thank for sharing the experience, but isn't better to support the engine from the top? The leak of oil may happen due to the massive charge of the engine on the aluminum oil pan supported by the jack
what your view on changing timing belt tensioner stud? i see you didn't as there good chance it will pull tread out. my timing belt it due soon got timing belt kit and has new stud I'm better off not using it ?
Up to you. I used to change those studs with every cambelt change, but then I got lazy. Check if it sits tight, no play, you might as well leave it. Alternatively, for perfection, you can see how it's done in my other videos. Have a look, I have playlist for Cambelts - see Passat and/or Sharan. I have replaced studs there. Especially Passat needed new one, you'll see why.
Nice job but for the folk who want to do their own car and not spend loads on "special" tools they may never need again , Ive never needed timing tools for doing these engines, also never took off the bottom engine tray what's all the nonsense? ( keep undertray in place after you remove the front inner arch only and throw a rag between it and sump if you really want)(trolley jack supporting engine method) Hardest part is removing top timing cover past the temp sensor but and if you really need to remove sensor you can get it with spanner if lucky or a plumbers tap tool thingymajig. Fuel pipes be careful not to break plastic so i usually undo rubber hose from stainless barbs. Crank pulley bolts a good 8mm (IIRC) allen socket fits perfect and will not round. Timing pins..... i use drill bits. Then when timed i do my own tip-ex marks before removing belt to make sure nothing moves when i tension the new belt ( nothing ever moves )(if top small roller is installed last) There is probably 100 ways to do this job no one better than the next but hope it saves somebody a few quid or thinking you need to wait till monday until the tool place is open)
Bonjour! I ve seen a lot of videos but yours is one of the best or the best one! i would do for the first time without any doubts😊. Your explanations is very detailed. Mine has 150k kms 10years, maybe will do around 180k kms ( 210k kms max according to france vw) Should I replace the oil belt as well? I did not hear of any damage from the oil belt but i'm wondering.. many thanks for your video.
Thank you for your nice words! My car is on 350.000 miles (over 500K km), and it has the same oil belt. I had a few people in the comments advising me to replace the oil belt. I don't know.. A lack of time and a bit of laziness don't let me 😁
@@wawayltd it's always better to remove the top timing cover after removing the engine mount , you just need to tilt it more to remove it with ease and don't forget to do the oposite when installing . theres no need to remove the engine bracket (for this matter)
just to understand better…why you should unscrew and move the camshaft and the high pressure pump…why you didn’t leave it with the pins on and don’t touch them. i just want to understand i really don’t say something negative or contradictory. Thank you very much for all your effort.
Hello 😊 Because when you start putting tension on, the belt will want to go back a little bit. If everything is locked, it can't do that. The belt must be straight and tight between crankshaft, high pressure pump and camshaft. We losen only outer sprockets, the actual shafts remain locked with pins. You're welcome 👍
If I'm not mistaken, manual says every 140.000 miles. Older cars used to say 60.000. I can say that this one and my previous Sharan at 80.000 looks like new. I change mine every 100.000 approximately.
One of little tensioners (they call it guide roller) has a bolt that holds it, I replace it - that's easy. As for tensioner and another guide roller that sit on threaded studs - I check studs to see if there is any play and decide if I want to replace them. They are a little bit awkward to replace. If you want to see how it's done - have a look at my video about Passat cambelt. You lock 2xM8 nuts against each other to turn them.
Hello friend, I have a question, if for some reason I don't know what position the crank is in, is there something I can do, you said every 2 turns of the crank is one, how do I know it's in the right place? Thanks
I don't quite understand the question... You rurn crankshaft and see where your camshaft is. You can't make a full turn without the belt on, so please don't try.
If it's slightly off, especially to the right - I don't think it would be a problem. Please mind - it's there only with engine cold, when it gets hot - it's off, and when the engine is running - it's all over the place.
