Thanks for posting this video, it helped me fix my grandmothers bottom seal that separated from the bottom of the garage door. I could not find any info about removing the metal along the bottom, so this was exactly what I needed to see. My goal was to re-use the existing rubber and just re-install it back into the groove. The manufacturers website was absolutely no help. I used your trick for spraying some lubricant down the groove while the metal is propped up at an angle. Also knowing to not remove the the top screw, and only slightly loosening the middle screw on the side brackets on the bottom of the door, was critical for success. Just wanted to give you a nice thumbs up!
Paul, what an excellent video! Not only did you do a wonderful job of replacing the bottom seal, you did a phenomenal job of thoroughly explaining how to do it. Thank you!
Hi Paul. You mention in the video that your door track slots measure 3/8 inch. Mine measure 3/16 inch. Is that what you meant to say? 3/16 inch? Is that standard size?
Hi Richard, Sorry about that, I meant to say 3/16. The newer ones are wider. If you have the older model track, you will have to special order the seal. Thanks for the correction!! Paul
Paul, nice video. I'm about to attempt to replace my rubber bottom. I bought the generic 16' rubber seal from Home Depot, your note about the size of your track, and the new rubber seal you got, make me a little nervous. But I'm confident with the coaching you provided I'll survive! Thanks TR
Hi TRussell8, My garage door is 25 years old. You probably have the newer style track. The generic ones at Home Depot and Lowes will work on most doors. Let me know how it goes, or if you have any questions. Hope it goes well for you. Thanks! Paul
Hello Paul, just a few thoughts for you. Much like you, I swear by PB Blaster, I still use WD-40 for light lubrication, but for stubborn bolts, the Blaster is the only way to fly. I recently replaced the bottom gasket on my garage door. I also had a problem with the width of the gasket t-flange. Unlike you, I didn't have a helper, my son is in Ohio, and I live in Florida. What I did to put my gasket in was unorthodox, but it worked. One of the channels had a larger gap. I managed to pull one side of the gasket through the thinner one, leaving the other end flapping. I then soaped it up, and did a press fit along the other channel, guiding it in with a small flathead screw driver, working the inner part of the gasket first, and running the screwdriver along the outside edge. Starting it was a pain, but once it was started, the rest of it went fairly smooth. It took me much longer then I had anticipated, but I got it done. Sorry for being so long winded, but I am not prepared to take it apart and do a video on it. At any rate, thank for the tips, I started the series on crown molding and looking forward to more tips from you. Thanks!
+Thomas Pasqualone Hi Thomas, Sounds like you are as stubborn as I am. You didn't stop until it was done! I really like your tip, it shows another option and probably worked better than my way. It's funny that you mentioned my crown videos. I am going to add a new one in the near future. I am going to show how to cut crown on a flat and not the nested position as in my previous video's. Unfortunately there are several factors that come into play. I prefer the nested method, but I do cut on flat when it comes to crown larger than 7" wide. This is because large crown will not fit under the saw blade when in the nested position. Thank you for your input and have a good day! Paul
just replaced mine without taking the bottom off. had a heck of a time sliding through. got about 3/4 th done and decided to start from other side and meet 1/2 way. then to find the piece I started on the other side, slid right through, like going through butter. moral, let strip set in the sun before installing.
jtennison77 Hey Jtennison77,Yes, I built it last year. I have an enclosed trailer in my back yard and I wanted to keep it hidden from the street. Thanks for the comment!!Paul
+Joe Krashin Hi Joe I believe you are mistaken, they do not sell the whole strip at Home Depot. They only sell universal rubber seals. The actual strip for a double garage opening would be 16' long. You would have to get it from a garage door company. The rubber seal cost about $ 30.00 and I believe the entire piece runs about 150.00 or more. Thanks! Paul
Very helpful video ... you do a nice job of explaining the details (which, as we all know, is where the "devil" is!). I'll definitely take a look at your other vids.
Damn good job. son. Great. Thanks. difficult. Headache. This is why men do not want to help around the house. Headaches so bad. I do curse. Great job. Been doing door sweeps on all doors.
Hi Paul, on my door the brackets for the cables go on the side and bottom of the door. So if I unbolt the track the bracket is in the way! any idea on this problem. Thanks for video. Don
Kayla Rutherford Hi Don, If you go back to the video and forward to 3.37. You will notice that the bottom bracket that connects to the cable is overlapping the bottom track. You will only remove the one bolt that goes through the track. DO NOT remove the other bolts on that bracket. They hold the cable in place and there is a tremendous amount of pressure on that cable. Removing that can be very dangerous! Before removing any bolts,please make sure that they are not the only ones holding the tension cable in place. If you have any questions, please let me know. Thanks! Paul
Hi Paul, Thanks for your quick reply. It looks like your bracket just over laps the bottom track. Mine continues under the bottom track at an angle and also blocks the seal on both ends.I think I might have to loosen the springs and take those brackets off to replace the seal. i have replaced one broken spring a while ago above the door.I don't know who the mfg. is, i can't find a label anywhere. Its 20 years old. thank you Don
Yeah Don, It sounds like you know what you are doing and you may have to loosen the tension on the springs first. Some manufactures find ways to make it harder than it should be! Sorry Man!
Paul, thanks for the video. It would be nice if you showed how you got it in the track. That is probably the most difficult part of the process and the most important thing I was looking for to help me. Thanks anyway.
+Paul Sullivan Hi Paul, I am really sorry that I did not show when I put it in the track! I did not have a lot of time to show it because the seal was not the size that it was suppose to be. I made it work but it was a little challenging. Normally the seal slips right in without much effort, so I tried to explain how I did it. I guess I could have shown a little more, I am sorry for that. Have a good day! Paul
Paul, thank you for the video. I just bought a replacement seal for my garage door and was getting frustrated that the t-flange was also too wide for my older garage door. I am a new home owner and am learning as I go...I live in the Chicago area and as it is now in the 15-25 degree temperatures I do not feel the soapy water method will be a good idea for me. Do you think I can use WD-40 to get my new seal into the track? Or is there another option that you feel would be best for me? Thank you again for the help and the video here!
+Joshua K Hi Joshua, WD 40 would not be my first choice because it may break down and soften the rubber seal if left on too long. If you use it, I would suggest cleaning it once you get it in the track. I have WD40 in my garage but I chose to use soap. A good silicone spray would probably do better. I also used a flat head screwdriver to widen the track at the beginning and in a couple of spots that were stubborn. Good Luck!!! Thanks! Paul
