I'm currently still rebuilding my '94 goodman gmp075-3. Hopefully it works when I am done. Blower motor wasn't much fun to get up in place. Your videos have helped me a ton. Thank you sir
Gary it was great to hear from you thank you for what you do no frills just honest to goodness teaching .I hope u and your family is safe Paul and Marie in the most shut down state in the union Michigan Mi
couple of broom handles into the burner tube holes and sticking out a few feet out for more leverage works pretty good. hands on top near exchanger to lift, ends extended under forearms towards elbows for balancing leverage.
@@grayfurnaceman I have a 60k Janitrol, the year after I bought the house the ingnighter went out. A $560 dollar bill. I started looking into furnaces. Been through maybe 4 of them, Mn ya know? An upper heat limiter switch, and an inducer motor., I have one flame inducer bypassed because I am crazy and lazy. I think I could do the heat exchanger a bit easier with my unit but, it is probably time to just give this idea up instead of pushing my luck. I have an HVAC dude that will help me put in a new Goodman, I will have to pay him but I will do it myself and have him look it over. I need to do this before your President Biden wants me to upgrade into HE, Bankrupt the Farm? What a fool! At any rate, thank you for the video, it is not rocket science but it is far more than any "Settled Science" clown like Obama could ever understand. What is wrong with these mostly wrong and America hating Democrats? I will find an ethanol burner and really burn the low IQ carbon footprint mass stupids.
Oh man, I service a lot of units from the '70s and '80s, I inspect via the burn/flame rollout - camera in the tubes and plenum, and CO meter, but watching these videos makes me think I should just make the owners start replacing them instead of keeping them in service. My favorite we replaced was an old Singer they made I think after WW2.
I have a Goodman GMP075-3 and came here not necessarily to replace the heat exchanger but to remove it in order to access the bottom of my evaporator coil in order to clean it. The evaporator coil is an old Bard one, to match the condenser unit outside (probably 40+ years old). It's all R-22...really being cheap here but the furnace and AC run fine (with exception to hitting high limit with a slightly dirty filter and now I can see my coil icing up) but I was able to remove the blower and look through the heat exchanger to see the dirt caked coil. I probably should replace all of it but that's quite an expense and a bit of work. I wish there was an easier way...but I don't think so. I have walls on 2 sides of the furnace, I'm kind of backed into a corner on this one. My last ditch effort will be to clean the coil, if that doesn't go according to plan then I'll be upgrading to a new unit in the not so distant future.
Another great video, thank you! I have one of these dangerous piece of crap money pits, but I don't use it anymore since I installed a mini split heat pump. I'm in Tennessee so it doesn't get too cold here, the mini split does just fine for me since I keep my house pretty cool anyways and it costs about $80 a month less to run than that crappy furnace.
I did that once in my 13 years on a Carrier High Efficiency, it was a pain. The instructions were OK and it took about 6 hours, with an hour of letting the sealant tack up.
Good job GFM! Is there a limit to where a furnace gets old enough that parts are no longer available for it? People want me to buy a new furnace because mine is and 1988 model. Thats getting pretty old. It is a Rheem Horizontol and to my knowledge still has the original heat exchanger. If could buy parts for it it would out last me and my grand children and theirs. The heat exchanger is the straw that brakes the furnaces back.
Most parts for that furnace are general replacement types. Of course, the heat exchanger is the problem. I would guess that a replacement for your furnace is no longer available. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman I haven't checked on parts yet. It has not set off the CO monitor yet either so that's a good thing. It couldn't have much life left in it though. in 2028 it will be 40 years old. I have a pilot igniter on the way and I plan to check the heat exchanger before putting it back in service. Its been down a couple weeks now. I have to work on it myself since no one will put it back in service. Thanks to you guys on youtube I could almost do house calls.😀
I have a 18yr old goodman gas furnace model GDT090-4. Im looking at replacing it or putting in new exchanger. which way is best to go.. I can get a new downflow goodman 80k installed for about 1800. However, Im thinking the exchanger I could do myself alot cheaper. I already put in last yr the control board and limit switch.
Its on the edge of not worth it but if you are doing the work yourself, I would consider it. You have already put some money into it and the job is quite doable by a handyman. GFM
hello again question, wayne burner is from 1990,eg1 it has on it ,GPH 0.50-0.75 A should I replace with 0.50-0.80 A, right now I think it has 0.60-0.80 b would that make it leak
I have the same furnace. I replaced the gas valve and fan inductor. Do I have to adjust the gas valve pressure or does the factory set the pressure. Thank you again Grayfurnaceman. You always provide great videos.
I always check the manifold pressure. Your furnace is 3.5 in wc, which is kind of a standard and most gas valve come set at that pressure, but I would never trust it. GFM
Hey, maybe you can assist. I have one of these in my home. Model # GMP100-3. My furnace is not heating and I’m thinking the igniter just needs to be lit. I seen when you pulled the igniter cable out where it was located.. can i just light it with a lighter/candle lighter?
I guess you could start the unit and when the gas valve opens in a trial for ignition, light the burners. The problem here is it will run for a cycle, then shut down and not start up. If the ignitor does not warm, check the error code. It will tell you where the problem is, not drafting enough, failed ignitor. Often an ignitor will fix the problem. GFM
Gary do you know how to replace a oven door sping on a vintage tappon stove let me know post you have done it this would be like from the early 50s f Thanks for every thing
Thanks gary I am still looking into it in the 60 a and 70 des the gas company would fix gas appliances for free and the e mail electric company would fix electric appliances for free as well do you remember that
it's been 20+ years ago since replaced springs on one of that vintage and I kind of recall having to dismantle the whole "flipping" thing to a zillion bits, removing the whole top and all outer case too. but I could be thinking of wrong oven/stove, so it's to be taken with a grain of salt :)
THANK YOU! for making this video! I just did my first GMP075-3 exchanger replacement. The new heat exchanger came fully assembled with some gasket material for the manifold. It slipped right in. One question I cleaned the burners while they were out. But when the whole house blower kicks in I get a lot of yellow. Is this normal since I cleaned it? Or could the new exchanger be defective? I also had to replace the inducer motor.
the blower is blowing dust out between case and heat exchanger plate and into the burner area. it should clear up fast and not return, unless you have very dirty ducts or keep stiring dust up
I should have also mentioned oil and dust on the heat exchanger from manufacturing. they usually discolor the flame and smoke up the house setting smoke detectors off on the first couple starts and long cycles.
I also noticed that the manifold has 4 screws holding it to the burner box. That the two screws on the top, both left and right had a spacer between the manifold and the burner box. I put it back but was wondering what the purpose might have been. My guess something to do with burner alignment???
Another question ,as I mentioned adjusted electrodes and gun depth and furnace runs real good,But still getting quite a bit of kerosene dripping directly under housing unit ( between pump and motor) could the seal be bad or shut off on pump if it has one ( single line stunted pump) pump is somewhere around 6 or 7 years old
I have a Gmp075-3 it runs bringing room up to or holding thermostat temp but it runs Blows heat Flame goes out inducer motor keeps blowing for 1,2 min then flame kicks back in and runs another 5 min keeping it at set therm temp cuts off and repeats need help -5 Degrees out
The rings pop out on the older units. This happened within 5 years. Later, and I believe with replacement heat exchangers, a number of cracks started near the rings. Pretty much what TheGettoLobster has said. GFM
I have a luxaire and looks allot like this furnace..was told a replacement of exchanger is close to 2 grand...may as well buy a new furnace than spend that kind of money..
All I can tell you is that furnace was quite an easy replacement of the heat exchanger. My total hours including diagnosis would be 3 hours and if the heat exchanger is under warranty, zero for the heat exchanger. GFM
@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 Well, I can't say it was defective from the factory, but pretty close. Within 2 years of the initial install I was checking all units for flame rollout and I seldom found one that was not failed. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman what is flame rollout? Just wondering. I was excited to see my exact furnace here and you saying it was a quick job, until I read the comments, and also seeing you need to unscrew things in the side where I have no access sort of kills that plan. Still, nice to know it could maybe be done. Debating only replacing the blower motor to get another season out of mine.
