My friend's mini cooper needed front brakes replaced. Brake pads: amzn.to/2Xb5ugV Caliper compression tool: amzn.to/2F6I4PC www.amazon.com... As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Very well done! Thank you for taking the time to put this together - great help. On our vehicle, I thought it was a good idea to clean the hub surface with a wire brush before putting the rotor on. It wasn't bad; but having debris in that area may cause the surfaces to not sit flush...and the end result could be a slight shimmy. The hub in your video appeared to be cleaner than what I was working with. Strangely... ours is and always has been an Arizona car. But it only took a few seconds and it isn't a bad practice.
I beg of you all, NEVER use locktite on the rotor retention bolts, ever, as they are ONLY meant to just hold the rotor to hub, while the wheel is off the car. use Anti-seize actually and just snug it up when reinstalling. never torque it up. In Fact the Mini retention bolts, as Jo Daddy's garage has eluded to, has a triangular threaded stem, and acts as a deformed thread so it stays tight anyhow.
Thanks for this video, very helpful to see somebody do it before you do it yourself. Looked at a couple of these videos but yours matched my circumstances, i.e. no lift, on the ground working. Thanks for posting 👍
Good video and much appreciated as Im about to do pads and rotors on this same vehicle for the 1st time for a friend. But some friendly advice from a mechanic is dont put loctite on the bolt that holds the rotor onto the hub, especially red. The next guy to do Rotors or a hub wont be a happy camper.
Nice job Greasing the slide pins is always a good idea checking boots for tears and cleaning up or replacing the pad tabs on the caliper bracket and it's good mindset to remove the master cylinder cap when your pushing the piston in on the caliper...
Nice video. I like knowing the wrench sizes before I start. I used the advice from @Andrew Wilson to turn the steering wheel to each side. I also used the old pad when compressing the caliper as the video advised. One thing that I do extra that wasn't in the video, is support the caliper with a wire hanging from the coil spring (I have had to replace a brake line when I dropped one long ago). When I ordered the rotors, I needed to know the outer diameter. There was a choice between 280mm (about 11 in), 294mm (about 11 1/2 in) and 316mm(about 12 1/2 in). Mine was 294mm for a 2010 Cooper S... but measure them for yourself. Thanks again for the video. It was very well done.
Thanks dude. Just doing emergency prep for the MOT as I thought it was due next month. I now have a day to sort things, seems easy enough. Pity about the sensors being in the way though.
Great video. The video itself demonstrates your patience which translates into great detail and content for the viewer. Thank you for your time. I have two questions. One) Why do you use Red loctite as opposed to Blue Loctite. The Red, is permanent and may require having to heat or possibly stripping the head of the bolt , The next time it has to be done. . (Not a Criticism, merely a question). Second question) should you, or should you not, use Anti sieze on the caliper bolts. (Again only to help with future take downs) also anti sieze helps, to prevent Bi-metal corrosion and possibly rust and corrosion from the elements . What is the real scoop on that ? Your opinion? I say yes, Am I wrong ? especially on Anti sieze. Some say yes, others no. However, I did notice when you removed the caliper bolt. It had a small amount of BLUE loctite on that bolt. That tells me No anti sieze. However, that could be a result of some one else's work. not factory . What is the real deal. ? again thank you for your time great video . Semper fi
I have used red loctite before, and haven't had problems removing bolts later. Thanks for the observation. Anti seize is useful for heat applications, like O2 sensors, and direct metal contact with dissimilar metals like aluminum and steel. I have never used it on caliper bolts. Right Of The Line!
Cool vid. One of my torex bolts which holds the rotor on was seazed solid and the head of the screw has got damaged / ruined. Any ideas how I get it out now?
@@JoDaddysGarage job for the weekend then. That heads getting drilled! I'm not going to bother replacing it either, I'm sure the rust will hold the new rotor on after a few months :) thx!
@@rojoque if the previous pads wore out, the sensor would have thrown a warning on the dash... If not, no damage done. If yes, maybe replace it, as it might have been ( will have been) scratched by the rotor.
Makes life just a little easier if you turn to full steering lock. In the U.K. This is a car I do many times a month, there an awful lot of these cars on the roads. The disc securing screw sometimes feels like made of chocolate! Has to be drilled and removed with vice grips. Brake parts so cheap I have never skimmed discs, just not worth it. I imagine you paid less than $100 for discs and pads? There are no A/F bolts on the car, everything is metric. Instead of 5/8" it should be 16mm.
They were quoted $400 at a shop. I did it for $180 parts and labor. Yes, I noted the comparison of the 16mm to a 5/8. It seems that most metric wrench kits in the U.S. don't come with a 16 or 18mm wrench.
Jo Daddy's Garage that figures,I had to order them separate when I bought my snap on wrenches! Got to wonder why? Maybe they refusing to accept metric!
Jo Daddy's Garage bproblem is here in UK car brakes are nearly always rusted and stuck solid. I like to have exact wrench size. Car brakes always a shitty job here- rusty,seized, dirty. I would like to work somewhere nice where cars don't rust! You do great work sir,I watch all of your videos and a subs.
I had my brake pads replaced not too long ago. Now it's time for rotors. My question is if i'm only replacing the rotor, is it necessary to remove the caliper off the bracket? Or can I simply just remove the bracket to get access to the rotor without touching the caliper and the brake pads.
It will be best to pull the caliper. You will need to compress the piston regardless. The new rotor will be thicker, even by a few thousandths. The pads will not slip over it.
