Replacing Chevrolet Silverado GMC Sierra Clutch Pedal Assembly - Broken Clutch 

O'Reilly's sells one with a metal insert. Also I didn't have to take dash apart simply dropped fuse box. To get new one in I attached the pedal lever after installing the housing. Made it much easier

I have done this repair before on my 2002. I didn't need to remove a single bolt or screw on the dash. You use a swivel head and at least 11" of extensions to reach the three bolts holding the peal bracket in. Once they are loose, you pull the assembly towards the bed, and you can get the front of the bracket in a little gap. Then there's enough room to pull the round part of the bracket in the firewall, out and down. I didn't even need to remove the pedal to take it out. Came out pretty easy... For install, I pulled the pedal out just because it was so easy, install was in reverse order.

This video was incredibly helpful. My boyfriend and I watched it probably 10 times but thanks to this video and lots of patiences, we got it fixed. Thank you!

This is going to be really helpful. I have to do this in the morning on a '02 w/ a 4.3L. We have been waiting 3 days for this pedal assembly. Same thing, its broke out in the same spot. Thing is we've brought this truck in twice for other stuff always at the end of the day, and both times at 4:30 the boss wants me to pull the pedal out. I know he's done a few, makes it sound like it takes about 15 mins without pulling the dash back. I've only done one before, about 8 years ago on an '05 1 ton chev, I don't remember pulling the dash back to do it. But I don't remember much about that one other than I did everything, clutch, master, slave, pedal. Everything was broken big time.

I just got through doing mine. I had a couple of bolts that weren't mentioned on mine to get the dash back, but otherwise the video was spot on. Saved me a lot of money, man. I would have never gotten it done without the video. Thank you. VERY much. Sure do appreciate you.

2004 Chevy Silverado Regular Cable - Thank Car Dr. for the video, just wanted to add for the regular cab truck, It was not necessary to loosen the dash. Just a good tug forward to clear the firewall the out.

I watched the video and oh my goodness so much stuff to remove. However I got my clutch assembly out without removing any dash parts. Lots of persuasion and that was it. Got it back in even easier. I never took the dash out. Still though this video was very helpful. Thanks car Doctor

I have to comment. Mine is an ‘06 regular cab. Did it in under an hour. Battery still connected also. Cut the pedal off as high as you can (have a buddy hold the pedal down for you). Watch the two sets of wires. You shouldn’t even be close. Take a sharp razor, trim a little bit of the thick rubber insulation under the area the assembly passes through the firewall. Take the 3 15mm bolts out. (You do NOT need a swivel!!). Just because I saw it, I took the 2 13mm bolts out for the dash supports. 1 under the column and the other on the hump by the 4x4 selector. Two 15 mm bolts behind the fuse cover on the side of the dash. I took a 12” flat screw driver and inserted it at the bottom of the dash by the 2 15mm’s and left it there. (I don’t know if it helped or not). Take the cover off the floor mounted distribution box and pull the box out of the way. It does move. You don’t need much. Pull on the assembly and it comes right out. With the new one in your hand...push in the hex shaped “plugs”. The pedal comes off. Slip the new one up in and bolt it together. Last step was sliding the pedal back into the assembly. Click-click.. insert clutch master through firewall into pedal, connect wire harness and you’re done. Seriously, this took just less than 1 hour and I had a phone call in the middle I had to answer. Tools used... 3/8 ratchet. 2 6” extensions. 15mm, 13mm and a 10mm just because. Not necessary though. Pipe cutting saw(they cut as you pull not push).

Man I wish I would have been able to catch a glimpse of this video before I bought my O2 dam

There is a lot easier way to do this. I'm doing this for the third time on my 2000 Silverado (same dash) and I've found that once you remove the three retaining bolts you can slide the pedal assembly back towards the instrument cluster enough that the front (where the MC attaches) will drop down inside the firewall. Take a wide gasket scraper and push it between the carpet and the front of the assembly so the carpet / mat is pushed back against the firewall as the front of the assembly slides down over the carpet. After the front of it is down past the hole in the carpet push the harness in between the front of the assembly and the matt before pulling it all the way down. Takes maybe 10 minutes to get it out. If you have trouble getting it past the carpet trim some off the top edge of the carpet or mat. Also you can work the clutch master cylinder line around under the brake booster so the clutch master will come out of the firewall completely without having to break the line and bleed it..Also The secret to bleeding the MC is to jack the front of the truck way up. The MC is tilted slight down when the truck is sitting on the ground. jacking the front of the truck up makes the reservoir the highest point in the system. it'll self bleed just by pumping the clutch after that..

Just pulled an assembly out of a 2002 sierra 1500. The 3 bolts holding the unit in place and the 2 nuts holding the fusebox base are all that needed to be removed. After that, a long screwdriver to push the firewall insulator out of the way and some finesse. Nothing needs to be forced, just wiggle it around and it will pop out.

Update; was able to free the clutch pedal assembly easily by simply cutting a section of that thick floor insulating rubber stuff below the point where the pedal assembly passes through the firewall. That gives enough clearance to pull back, then down in the front of the assembly, and it comes right out. Did not take apart any of the dash. '05 Silverado 1500.

I was able to get my pedal out on my 2002 silverado without removing the dash. had trouble trying to get it back in but then....i removed the pedal arm from the mount by pressing in the spring loaded bolt shaped retainers on the housing. i had plenty of room for it to go back after that. it literally took 30 seconds to remount the bracket to the firewall and attach th pedal arm back to the base bracket.

This just happend to me at 2:30 in the am driving around in the snow this is surprising Chevy makes such a crazy clutch assembly

watched this video about a dozen times before and during the same project thanks couldn't have done it without you

I just changed mine today on my 2006 WT 1500 and was able to do it without removing anything, but the lower dash panel and moving that electrical junction box. I did have the seats out for some other work, though, which helped with access . I did use the oem part because my problem was worn pivot . However, Dorman makes an improved part with metal parts molded in . But it does not come with the pedal.

Hey man, thanks a bunch for posting this repair video, you saved me hours of figuring stuff out for myself, which I used to do a lot before you tube. Pretty sure I owe you at least a six pack.. Anyhow, I figured out one thing that saved me a bunch of time and will save you and anyone else from having to fool with the dash components you illustrated. I removed the metal bracket under the fuse panel you removed at 5:50. That allowed me to remove and re-install the clutch pedal assembly no problem. Probably a 50% savings on cuss words!

Just did this in my driveway. Your video was extremely helpful.

Thanks a lot my friend!! I just took out the bad pedal and I’m waiting for the replacement to come in the mail. You are a true lifesaver

Happened to me... 2003 Silverado. 85K miles. Pushed in the clutch, heard a crack, pedal stayed on floor, master cylinder hanging off firewall... After turning truck off, wouldn't restart, clutch has to be in for it to start... Broke, out of luck. It was the last time i ever bought a Shitvrolet.. RAM baby!

Thanks for this video the air rachet and drill saves alot of time for sure second time having to do this only lasted about 18000 miles part should still be under warranty

Thank you. Good sharing your knowledge. Dealership part is 88 bucks up here in montana. But it lasted 14 years of pushing. God Speed to you.

Let us know how it turns out. Sounds like some are easier than others. If you look up at the fastener on the instrument panel side and the attaching base of the pedal support extends up under the panel you'll need to pull the panel back a ways to facilitate removal. Good luck!

I had a truck like this . The clutch bracket does NOT have clearance to remove by any other means. However, I took my Fein saw and cut the bracket in half carefully without hitting wires. Then the two halves of the bracket come right out. I took the new bracket and shaved off the corners and the 45 degree gusset back about 5/8 of an inch. The new bracket slipped right in under the insturment panel very easily. Took about 45 minutes total including clean up.

Hey Car doctor. This just happened to one of my guy's. Going to tackle this today. Thank you so much for your help. I can't get the replacement part today but I will let you know how the removal process goes..Thanks again and at the very least I have some direction Paul

You, my friend, are a major lifesaver (and money saver) at a time when available funds are as lean as they have ever been, and guidance from an expert is worth its weight in gold. Thank you, and wishes for good health and good fortunes to you always.

Exact same problem. Thanks for the video. Helped so much man

I didn't have to move the dash. Popped fuse block out of the way and unbolted the mount. R&R was pretty simple after that. You need to point the pivot point of the pedal highest up into the dash to pass the harness then slide master cylinder mount into its hole. You'll start at about a 4 to 5:00 clock position then twist clockwise to 6. Took me an hour and a half start to finish. 05 V8 2wd.

Bc of this video my pickup shifts again. Thanks a lot

So pissed that I have to do this but so grateful for the video you made 👍

Thank you so much for this video! And for the comments by users, I was able to successfully do this repair without moving the dash.

Thanks. I'm looking forward to it 😂 My Dad was a GM tech and had a life long love hate relationship with GM.

Had to replace my Clutch Pedal assembly on my 2006 Chevy, 4.3L. Not fun, took me all day as I am a very shade tree type guy. Took my time and saved around $300. The only issue I had was I didn't get the dash out and up far enough and I was getting caught on the firewall pass through hole and top bolt wouldn't line up. Grabbed a lunch and came back to it and finished her up. Thanks for the great video...now if I can get all the cuts healed up I'm good!

Thanks for this video I had mine torn apart with hand tools and no blood lost. I'm not in any hurry I'll put it back together tomorrow.

Same thing happens with my truck thanks for your video helps a lot

i saw this video and helped me too much i will to convert to a/t transmisssion to manual transmission thank you sr. i am from mexico i salute you thanks

Great video, subscribed. I just did this on a 2000 Silverado , no need to remove the dash.

Man I wish there was easier way to do this. Thanks for the help man.

Thanks for taking time to making this video ...... BIG help!!!!!

Your the man thank you for the kindness

I have a 89 and am amazed that GM is still around with the Rube Goldberg contraptions they continue to put into their vehicles.

Great job car doctor! Love the video!

great video just changed a clutch pedal in an 06 silverado 4.3... Davis Truck & Auto Chateaugay, NY

Sharing the following in attempt to save someone the headache associated with this dilemma and the best permanent fix. This ABS plastic will break / weaken just as the video illustrates when excessive force is used when attaching the reservoir cap. Back ground: No issues until truck went in for a new clutch and back twice because of a faulty slave line. Within a month after receiving truck back the 3rd time, BAM… pedal to floor and master hanging by the push rod through the fire wall. I remember checking the fluid before the thing shot out of the wall and noticed the master was terribly wobbly and loose, thing would pivot nearly .5” in all directions. So all that draining and filling and SMASHing the cap back on took its toll over the course of the truck returning to that shop and damaged this assembly (Next time, I’ll be doing the clutch). So what is a good, relatively fast fix, back on the road next morning (after working on it all night) well, just keep reading. Throw that stock master in the trash, run down to the parts store and get the good ole bolt on master from I believe pre 98 Chevy/gm models. Two bolts and mechanically attach that thing like it should have been to begin with. The steps: The new master will set flush against the outer lip or flange of the ABS that is visible at fire wall. Trim away the broken ABS, but do not cut or remove the ABS housing protruding through the wall, leave it intact. You need the material as is for proper push rod spacing. Center the master on the ABS flange. You’ll notice the bolts will clear the flange, mark the wall where the bolts will go with a pencil. This is the tricky part due to the access, drilling the holes. Step the holes (start with 1/8” bit, then size needed per the bolt size) Use the super long bits sold a HD or Lowes. If you can manage to (center) punch the wall, it will help to keep the bit from walking. While at the hardware store grab a stick of perforated angle steel, thick gauge (or just fab up a small member form some scrap steel if capable). Have an extra set of hands position the master and bolts in place against the ABS flange. From the cab side, using a shop light take a look up under where those bolts are coming through the wall. Measure or guesstimate the length needed for the angle steel (thinking it was roughly 3-3.5”, for each side or bolt). The new steel will act as the back plate for the bolts. Place a section of steel on each side of the push rod. The angles or plates will run in the horizontal direction. Slab some red thread lock on bolts and snug the nuts up enough so the assembly stays in place. Check position of master, angle/plates and bolts get well enough lined up and tighten bolts. If using the perforated angle, tighten just enough so as not to bend the steel, but tight enough that the steel doesn’t move. This was performed about 5 yrs back, so I tried to remember the process which fairly certain is all here. If post gets response, I can post some pics via G drive Material: Pre 1998 Chevy/GM clutch master cylinder, 2 bolt mount. Two bolts to connect MC to fire wall (can’t remember if the supplied bolts were used) Red loctite Back plate for bolts- angle steel.Use the old push rod, as it has the ball that mates to pedal.

2005 Silverado 1500 and mine just went...can't believe that they use plastic for this and metal for the accelerator and brake!!! Those pedals could be plastic, this one needs to be metal SMH! Anyway just ordered the part so I'll be trying this myself in a week or so. Thanks for blazing the trail for me!

This happened to me in 2014. Quick fix w a piece of metal with a square hole grinded into it. Until I swapped my V8 in, my clutch would never disengage completely

Ok So I watched the video and was not wanting to loosen up the dash board so I tried to get the pedal out without loosening the dash and I was actually able to get it out. It was tight but moving the wire block like he said and just manipulating the pedal and wiggling it out carefully not to pull on any wires the only thing I had to do was take a Sawzall and cut the pedal arm so that I could get the bracket around wires that were routed around the pedal. Now that the pedal is out I can reroute the wires out of the way to install the new pedal assembly.

Thanks brother 😄, good learning video and thank you for the humerus ( but true about design and quantity of today's engineering comments )

Hey just wanted to tell you I really appreciate the video!

Watched 2 others before this one and both of them got it out without taking any dash pieces off. They slid it towards the seat then pulled the front of the bracket down first and then twisted it and bam it's out.

Excelente video me sirvio de gran ayuda cuando vengas a Chihuahua Mexico te ganaste una cervezas

No need to kick the dash back, I just did one on a 2003 Sierra by cutting back the firewall insulation and sliding the firewall side of the assembly down and out.

Hey man, just had my trans replaced with a reman, as well as flywheel resurfaced and new clutch. Now it appears that I can not get enough play to fully disengage clutch. Shop told me that’s on me and not their problem. They said I need a new clutch pedal because no adjustment on my 04 GMC Sierra 2500HD. Is there really no adjustment or alternative for this supposed 1.5” of extra play which they claim is the problem?

thank you I will let u know

I got mine back together. took the pedal off the assembly. seems it's impossible to take the pedal of without the left side spring popping out. the plastic washers around the compressible nuts cracked a lil but it seems to be holding the pedal fine just a lil frustrating damaging a new part

Hey Doc, I just had mine go last week. Exactly how you said. At a light and my peddle went to the floor. 60.00 bucks later for a tow. What range of years and what make and models is the assembly in, do you know? Thanks, Jeff

😂😂😂 the last bit I felt this man

I have 3500 1996 with 6.5 engine manual shiter. I just bought it The truck had clutch problems I was told . Now start the truck only too start it in gear So basically start in 3e gear to drive I cant shift any more after that She won't engage lower or higher .Now I just brought the truck in and got the master cylinder replaced . Still the problem . Do you think its the throw out bearing or its the transmission . Let me know thx

Did you fart at 10:27 min into this video haha lol

You forgot "Maybe see an anger management specialist afterwards" its gonna piss you off to the point you wanna just sell the truck 😂😂

What a nightmare... thanks for the info

Great Video! My assembly went out on a 2003 about a year ago. Trucks been just sitting until this week when a former employee called needing some work. I showed him your video and he spent a couple mornings replacing pedal assembly. He started truck after replacing pedal and pop the assembly breaks again within seconds. I was not present during test or on installation. He s not a great mechanic and letting him fix it was more charity than anything. I remember a lot of pressure to push down slave cylinder, because I tried to put metal strap on firewall with self taping screws around assembly to get home when assembly broke, but finally gave up. My question is slave cylinder .or something else causing breakage , or my bad judgement in letting some one who is always losing jobs because he smokes too much pot.

Dorman makes a metal upgraded mounting plate for this Have you tried it and if so is there a video for installation?

Here’s a question you might be able to answer. I have an 03 Silverado 4.8 4x4 with a 4l60. Ive already been thinking of what to do when it craps out which they all do. How hard would it be to manual swap? I understand I would have to cut the floor and replace the control module

18:35 that’s why you had such a hard time. You pulled the wrong side out first **PRO TIP** DO NOT NEED TO PULL OUT DASH at all. Once you have the bolts out you will want to slide the bracket towards the back of the vehicle and actually pull the front part of the bracket out of the hole and rotate down. The dorman part has a metal collar built in. Part #926-086 Going on a 2005ish GMC Sierra. Also the clutch master cylinder rod bent which is why it broke on this one. Less than a hr I’m done

I have to replace mine in my 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD and I never once took the dash apart just the 3 bolts out of the pedal assembly and doing a little twisting and she came right on out with out breaking it more or anything else

Hello I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado. My clutch pedal become very lose and I can’t get into gear while it is running. I had to turn the truck off and put it into gear. I couldn’t get past third and had to drive home from work in third gear. Do you believe it’s my clutch pedal assembly, and if so will your fix be the same for my model. It’s a 4.3 work truck. Thank you Omg I just got to the part about a herniated disk in L4 and L5 and I do have that. 🤣🤣 If I decided to take it to a mechanic do you know what I may have to pay?

For a 2007 Chevy v6 4by4 do u need to remove the whole dash to install clutch pedal my friends broke from firewall also?

Trying to determine if this is my issue. Pedal goes right to the floor. I can shift if I mash the pedal into the carpet. No leaks, no low fluid. Replaced master cylinder on end of the transmission and the clutch pad two years ago. I do not see any broken plastic from the engine compartment side.

If you are ever in Ohio, I want to buy you dinner! Thank you so much!

I replaced the assembly awhile ago can I adjust the pedal it's engaged about 1inch to floor as to 3 inchs it was befor

sorry, at least on ours we did not had to remove the dash, 1. remove the fuse box, it flips foward and out 2. remove the fuse bracket , one screw is behind the kick panel 3. flip the column grommet to one side, has a clip, gets a little stubborn as older it gets 4. remove the cylinder shaft and safety switch as shown on video 5. remove screws as shown on video 6. pull bracket downward from the firewall side first slightly turning the pedal counter clockwise, and out it comes INSTALL reverse process clutch master cylinder goes in at an angle then turn counter clockwise inspect groves on clutch master cylinder first before installing GOOD LUCK

Also it was my vehicle so I didn’t disconnect anything except the pedal. This removing the dash panels is extra. Great if your running up hours of labor but if you wanna get back to working your truck it’s tooooo much extra steps

My foot slipped off the clutch pedal and it snapped back. Then it lost all its spring back and just moves freely back and forth! I am stuck on the side of the road right now. Please help. What do you think it is

hey I was wondering im going to swap my 91 4x4 700r4 to a nv3500 4x4 manual my question is are they the same length or will I have to customize the driveshaft length got all the parts ro convert I even have the transfer case for the nv3500 please get back to me soon thanks

Just did mines and didn't have to do all that..... Unhooked the battery, took the clutch master cylinder out, bolts out the pedal, moved a few wires, and with a screw driver I had had it out and back in about 30 mins

Where did u get the part from having a problem getting the part . dealer dont have part

Hi Doc, I have manual 01 Sierra 4.3L. My clutch is very hard and i have to press the padel all the way otherwise it starts grinding and would not change the gears. Si i have two issue here hard cluch and shifting requires pressing the padel all the way. Please advise what could have gone wrong?

car doctor. I cannot find where the one of the two connectors go on the neutral safety switch not the 6 prong but the 1prong

hello I take this opportunity to say that and a great video. I have a 95 chevy suburban 6.5TD, but bought a manual transmission and all the accessories to apply because they do not like to drive cars with automatic transmission. the question is? it is possible to make this change? and like this Silverado? I appreciate that someone show me some vedeo or any help. i love my suburban and not change the other. thank you for your attention. jorge from norway.

I just finished changing that part out and now I can hardly push down my clutch an inch. Any advice? Sooner the better. Thanks

how do I get the clutch switch to have spring tension on it again? that's the only thing holding me back

So I did this and got the clutch pedal fixed, but now there is a service air bag light on the dash, but it turns off when I turn the passenger air bag on. Does anyone know what might have happened?

i have a 1992 chevy 1500 i replaced. the resavor thing u out fluid in cuz old was plastic. i got a new one running fine now i squirting out fluid u where oush line in. i cant get line out an person who helped didnt out in the pin so i thought ok did my o ring get stuck or something. i have pulled an all an pushed an pull out an line wont come out. can u assist me please. im doin this myself

I'm curious to what transmission is in this truck.

where you buy the pice ?

hi mate nice vedeo you know the reference of ECM that truck i need buy the same ECM for my suburban 96 because i change a automatic transmission to manual transmission i need change the ECM to but i don"t know who the reference you can help me much if tell me the reference of the ECM thanks

Did that Snickers work out for you brother?

Thanks

great video man but for the record it's not a 4.3 v6 maybe a 4.8 v8

2006 Chevy Silverado WTHey man,Got the job done, but I was left with one blue wire with a clip hanging down. it seemed to be taped to the clutch safety switch wire harness. When I got it all put back together,1. my instrument cluster wont illuminate (background light, everything else functions)2. no brake lights3. no turn signals4. no blower motor5. ABS idiot light6. anti theft idiot light (no alarm installed)HELP!...but the clutch works!

It always fascinates me that it takes so long to pull the dash out of vehicle when it only takes a few minutes to install it at the factory .

Is It possibly a bad master, causing to much pressure, on the pedal assembly, flange.

Holy sweet baby Jesus.all this just to get this crappy plastic Peddle out?..who in the hell at GM thought it'll be a good ideal to add a plastic clutch Pedel?Not sure if I should tackle this project or send it to my mechanic..I'm good at taking things apart but putting it back to gather always turns into a disaster for me lol...+1 for the informative video tho

If I could find a candy bar in the dash I would probably eat it. I always hate laying on the floor of any vehicle

Buy a new plastic part, then take it to a machine shop, that can laser scan it for dimensions, create a cnc program and have them make it out of metal.

does a bad clutch master cylinder cause this

sorry ment where u out clutch. fluid in

Hahah he did fart 💨

Do yourself a favor carefully cut the old out with a Sawzall was able to avoid taking dash apart replaced with a steel one went in relatively easy