going to do the castor wheel hub bearing s tomorrow on my laser Z exmark mower But will check the play in the spindle bearings while up in the air. Thanks so much for the video! You did a very nice job in explaining everything. I liked it and subscribed, AGAIN GOOD JOB! Robert TN
Heat the frame around the area where the bearings will sit with a small torch. Put bearing in the freezer for 30 mins bearing you install it. You should very hit a bearing to install it. Great idea on pressing the bearings in.
If you've done trailer wheel bearings, especially semi siezed - heat welded on where they need cut off, such difficult, blown out, bearings- this style, instead, is very easy, especially the top one. As with all bearings, the nut needs to be the correct tightness - not too tight, not too loose, rotation of swivel smooth and easy moving. I go generous on the grease.
while the bearings are out is the time to drill, and tap for grease fitting and install grease fitting, then take the seal off the side going in toward the middle so you can grease the bearings making them live longer.
So I had to look at a couple of your videos to remove and replace the bearings but my bosses gravely is a work horse going hard so we had a way harder time but the caps had been off for a long time making it harder but I bent a c clamp in the process replacing one of the bearings lol literally had just bought it to
Thanks for sharing. Great video. You think Gravely would make it easier to swap bearing…that looked like a pain in the ass getting them out and the new ones back in!!!
My gravely is much older 1999 260 zt. It has threads on top with a nut and a cotter pin. The diagram in the parts shows , from the bottom is a spacer, a seal, the bearing a cup and then the upper part is the other way. First is the cup, then the bearing {no seal} a washer the Nut and cotter pin. My problem is getting the cup in place from the bottom. I can get it started with a mallet, like you used, but I can not get it go higher up. If I don't get it up high enough the Nut will not be sticking out enough to get the cotter pin into place. Can I use a similar socket method you used to put the cup into place? With a big C clamp.
Kevin Haggins I would take a blow torch. if you have one use the yellow bottle of map gas it gets a lot hotter. if you’re replacing the bearings get everything in there is hot as you can then quickly grab a hammer and beat the living hell out of it. but you also don’t want to hit it too many times to where the metal on The top of the shaft begins to mushroom over. you may want to hit it with a wooden block. try that if that does not work I would use some kind of a puller
