Hi Mike, great video again👍I was thinking though you could put a much higher pressure through the system than 16psi as you are not pressurising the system, as it is open, due to the nature of the flush. 16psi would only come into play if it were sealed and able to build up and maintain a system pressure above which the cap would vent off anyway I think. Just a thought 👍on mine I used a pressure washer but the core was blocked so I replaced it. What a difference that made and the heater was perfect afterwards which was great as I was heading over to Norway.😊
For those that don't have a GAP tool; the heat self test for the LR3 can be initiated by pressing and holding ECON and RECIRC buttons while turning the ignition switch to the ON position. The control module will compare the current motor position with the values stored and the module will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED. If no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally. To confirm there are no errors, turn the ignition switch OFF then back ON. Observe the operation of the defrost LED. If there are errors present, the defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
another great video. I cringed a little bit when you cut the heater hoses to get them loose. I get that it makes it easy to release them but for me any hose that isn't really leaking is still useful as a backup. We are in the back country a lot so if we spring a leak any complete heater hose is better than no heater hose. as always good stuff. And look out for a new product I will have that will initially launch for Land Rover owners but be useful to anyone running air suspension.
Yikes. I don’t envy you. Have you checked Atlantic British website? They have an extensive selection of hose kits: www.roverparts.com/belts-hoses/kits/HOSEKIT106/
Hey man enjoying the content, friendly advice, your heater core for the front is blocked, all temps should be at approx +75°C/+167°f, coolant flow and return pipes enter the heater core on the passenger side, so the air vent closest to the "hot" pipes start from centre right, then passenger right, centre left then driver left, hence the drop in temps across the heater vents, you most likely just cleaned the start of the heater core, so some slight improvement but a new core is best solution, but beware almost full centre dash strip down to remove the heater core. I had to change mine on 2005 disco 3, and now changing one on 2006 RRS, same symptoms as you have, good luck from Ireland 🇮🇪 ☘️
This can be done without a major strip down and certainly with the dash in place on an LR3, LR 4 is a dash out👍 on my D3 I found it really easy with just a small cut to a plastic panel to allow access. Probably not your style Mike but the removed piece is not visible. 😊
Hi Mike, one thing you really need to look at is all the plastic/nylon 't' & 'y' pieces around the engine. You can see they are becoming brittle. I'd suggest, changing them to metal variants and if néed be, get them made for you. They all go brittle and it becomes a bigger and bigger problem over time.
@@wafflesquare While you are dealing with the waterworks on the truck, I'd also check the structure of the thermostat housing next to the throttle body. They too are an issue. Don't use an aftermarket replacement, they do not last, only use a Genuine LR part here. I did hear of a guy down in Austin Texas who was fabricating aluminum versions. I'll try chasing it up as I too have got to replace mine soon.
Hey Mike! Love your new hairs! Just some info to spread (most likely not applicable to your LR3 however)... On later LR4 models, there could be anti-theft feature in the ECU, preventing the addition of a new key. If that is the case, the owner will need to send some ECU information to GAP Diagnostics so they can sent back a vehicle specific update and then the IID tool will be able to program new keys. The process is still very easy and fast, mostly because of the excellent service at GAP! Cheers from Canada!
@@any0n378 , I have no doubt it worked on a LR3. I believe the anti-theft feature is from 2013 LR4 and later and probably not every country. I think it's great that we are able to do that and a bunch of other things with the GAP tool! Have fun riding and Cheers!
Curious on the conclusion here. I have a L320. Most forum posts say that the flush helps marginally and the root fix is always a heater core change to get back to the max temperature you'd expect. I did a recirculate flush and not a exchange in two buckets like you did. It still isn't great but that heater core job is $$$.
Would you be able to do a detailed video on the process for successfully bleeding air from the cooling system? I just performed an expansion tank and thermostat replacement. I feel like the car does not come up to temperature as quickly as it should. At idle the ECT (engine coolant temperature) never gets up to operating temp for the thermostat to open. Typically hovers around 176 degrees. Thanks.
In episode two I use a vacuum kit to refill the coolant system. This method greatly reduces the possibility of air bubbles in the system. Nonetheless, there should be an air bleed valve at the top of the engine that looks like this: amzn.to/3MyF2qf
Ok you missed a few things, one, what connections are used to connect the pump to the hose and then to the other hose?(mine has garden hose connectors) Also would a little sump pump for flooded basements work? Also did you have to refill the heater core with coolant and if so did you just add it to the expansion tank while it was running? Also which pipe is coolant in and which is coolant out? Also when you soak it do you just suck up the chemicals till you see them coming out and then shut the pump off? Can you bleed the heater core by running the truck with the expansion tank cap off, then fill to max at the end?
Awesome detailed video! How the heck did you get those blue tab squeeze connectors off the "tee's?" The ones that feed the lines that go to the rear. I got the ones with the 'elbows' going to the heater core but broke both of them in the process. Struggling with the ones from the tee's. Do you know if those are available separately in case I break those too? I'd hate to have to try & replace the lines going down & to the rear. Thanks!
Did you replace all the hoses? I'm currently waiting on a new radiator bc I broke that silly little 1/4" plastic overflow fitting off, but I have no idea where the line with the T (part # NF31Y3) goes to and how to replace that. Did you replace that line?
@@wafflesquare dang! Do the rest! 🤣 Love your videos and your intro "I'm not a mechanic, I just dress like one on RU-vid" 🤣🤣🤣 Atlantic British recommends hose replacements at 105K intervals. I got my '08 with 150K, and pretty sure nothing has been done, so I've been getting to it! Did the heater core flush today... but as I said in the prior message, I broke the fitting on the radiator, so waiting for that to finish things up!
Hi, I just changed out my heater hose and I connected everything back together. I started it up I see no leaks or anything visibly wrong, but once I started driving down the road i noticed my thermostat gauge climbing like if it was overheating?
I need help, where can I reach you? I have range rover sport 2012 and i have the parts that i need to change but Im not sure how to connect the pipe to the connector
Your lucky my guy I have A Range Rover sport with a super charger on top that had to be taken off completely to be able to change the complete heater hose then those piece of crap clamps couldn’t hold the pressure anymore after being replaced so I had to use the screw hose clamps
