Craig Arndt the brake cleaner works great for initial de-contamination and cleaning the hardware. Just fan it out with the flame and you will see how effective it is. I typically use a heat gun, but the torch was more readily available.
Great job Steve. Heating the brake shoes to get the oil to come out of them is a great tip. Keep up the good work my friend. The 8N is going to be one awesome rig when you get it all done!!
I have cheated many times avoiding changing the seals. Similar to this a set of nice dry pads will work a while. Ok for a quick fix. I was hoping this was an actual seal job. Good luck. How you don't have a bad leak and can get away with it for a while. I live in steep hill country. It's time to fix mine. I have no brakes and have to plan an escape route when going down hill. We just mow with our 1949 8N only now. Love this tractor.
@@gregkocher5352 I may have a pair of outer seals I don't need. Ebay. I bought pair and seller was sleepy I guess. Never got them. Bought some from another seller and I got these in 3 days. Well the 1st order is on the way now. That seller is getting some more negative feedback. Interested? part # A8NN4248A
I know this is not a "how to" video, but know it's a fairly easy and straightforward job. The hardest part was managing the rear wheel with the weight still bolted to it. best of luck with your tractor.
Liam M : I will, in the future get more video of my residential remodels and repairs. It really is a time consuming process to get quality footage to make a video or a series of videos. Right now I am buried in rental remodels..which are a production process that has to move at a frenzied pace. I ended the year thinking I would have the first 4~6 weeks of 2015 to myself...but as soon as I returned home from my Christmas vacation I was immediately hit with two vacant apartments to get remodeled and rent ready ASAP and a third that will come vacant on Feb. 1st....that will keep me running around like a mad man trying to work my trade and keeping my subs on schedule until April. Thanks for hanging in there and watching my videos.
If you place a piece of cardboard down underneath the axel and light coat of grease on the area directly under the axel You can easily slide the tire assembly up at spin it too. Keep it vertical and it will go well.
Steve, I've been watching your projects for couple of years, always enjoy and amazed at all the things you tackle. I do miss your videos on you doing renovation work on the old houses. You taught me a few tricks. Will you be taking the video cam on the job site in future? Well, as always a great vid. You taught me something new about cleaning brakes. Thanks :)
I checked the 9/2/8N tractor forums and service manual and the torque spec for the hub retaining nut is 450 ft. lb. A bit more than you'll get with channel locks. The nut doesn't affect the bearings, it just holds the hub to the axle. You won't get it too tight. Since that kind of torque isn't easy to generate, most guys just use a breaker bar with a 4 - 5 ft. cheater and hop on it a time or two and call it good. Also, the hubs will 'settle in' and need to be re-torqued a couple of times. And make sure the spring clip is on the nut.
Nice tip for cleaning the shoes. Did notice that you may have missed a seal. There's a seal that fits over the axle between the bearing and hub. Prevents oil from migrating out of the hub end.
MrWillis5719 They are a little clumsy... honestly they weren't too bad because we kept them upright... lifting them up from lying flat on the ground would have been a bit of a challenge.
I've watched two videos so far trying to get the low down on the spring clip. You mentioned you were GOING to do it after checking torque specs (450 lbs) but you didn't show how you put the clip on.
Its all about leverage with larrge tires .When you refill the tires do you have to use some kind of anti freeze mixture so they will not freeze at the ranch ? Gerry
krazy45cat Hey Gerry, I will re-fill the tires when I get it up there with some liquid that will resist freezing...I plan to talk to a few of my neighbors and see whey they are running and folow suit. We are not in a deep freeze area, but get snow so I don't think plain water will be a good idea. Steve
yourbeekeeper There's a product called 'Rimguard' that's supposed to be very good. It's non-corrosive, non-poisonous, and just as heavy as calcium chloride. It's a by-product of beet processing and known as 'beet juice'. A Google search should fix you up. Finding a dealer might be a stumbling point, but may be worth a look.
I have to replace the seals in mine . My dad put new seals in it in about 1973 ?? I remember we had a wood burning stove in our barn that was made from a 55 gallon drum and he put the brake shoes on there to "boil" the oil out of them . Last year or the year before the valve stem cores in mine rotted away ( I've got the salt water or whatever stuff in them ) . The one tire wasn't full so with the valve stem straight up i replaced it with out a mess but on the other it must have been full and fortunately just as I discovered that my buddy walked in my barn and I said grab that bucket ... and got that new core in . The weight of the tires is the scary part for me . In all the years I've run the tractor I've never really used the brakes to stop , but every now and then I'd tap on one of them to turn .
Getting her done, you have to watch when you heat up parts that have had brake clean on them as brake clean turns into a nice poisonous gas when its heated with an open flame.
Graveltrucking Yep... most of the good (hot) thinners and cleaning chemicals get nasty when heated... this is no exception. I don't even like to breathe the heated oils... they are all out to get yah!
You can do the same thing to bowling balls to draw the lane oil out. (Urethane ) Obviously not with a propane torch but an oven set on low does the trick. You wouldn't think a ball could hold so much oil..
ItsAlwaysRusty Bowling Ball??? all these years and I never knew that... I would just wipe it down with a towel and go from there... Hmmm... makes me want to do a little experiment... Hmmmm
What is the state of wear of the pins all along the linkage from pedal to drum? -they are often seized and wear badly, especially for the left brake. Also please check the bush that the pedals pivot on, some have a grease nipple some don't. Do you have a brake spring on the linkage to lift the shoes off or does it rely on the springs on the shoes? -they are often broken/stretched or missing altogether!
Dan Whiteford Hey Dan, It looks like all the brake hardware was replaced at some time...judging by the wear on them, it was likely the last time they replaced the shoes. There are no springs outside of the brake housing, so only the springs on the shoes lift the brake arm.
A friend of mine (a knucklehead) took all the weights front and rear off his tractor thinking it gets better gas mileage and it's easier on the tractor... the thing will hardly back out of the barn without wheel spin and you cant steer it with the bush hog on. He cant understand it. I'm not saying nothin, it's just to fun to watch.
Mechanical brakes, the safety of steel from wheel to wheel. ;) Is that tire really that heavy? Last time I looked up specs on those tractors I thought the whole thing was only 2,000 pounds.
+l337pwnage The tractor specs at 2340lbs dry. We left the wheel weight bolted to the rim. The cast on the weight says 500lbs. For the weight of the rim and tire I would add no more than 200lbs to that.
Outside of the brske installation, there's a pin under the front axle centerpoint that needs to be replaced every now and then. It is positioned front to back, not side to side. When it wears out, thefan on the waterpump drops a little, then it starts to rub on the radiator shroud, then eventually rubs on the radiator. That pin needs to be replaced, and I have no clue how to do this. An old man told me it's in the I and T manual but have hopes someone knows what I'm talking about because I don't.
Brian Niemi I did not make a "how-to" for the replacement of the rear seals. I had never done them before and didn't think it right I try to teach people how to do something that I didn't know how to do. With that being said, it was really a straight forward job. No special tools needed and it all made sense once you started taking things apart. The most difficult was removing and handling those heavy rear tires. The rest was simple.
yourbeekeeper Oil ain't nothing to mess with when it comes to brakes...I use Brakleen on all my brake jobs & clutch jobs...get asbestos & ceramic dust out of the equation...good vid Steve...hot & sexy!!! Nothing like sexy brakes...LMAO!!!
Thanks Robert, This is not a how to video and was never presented as one. At the time, I was a vlogger/project youtuber and this was one in a series of several videos on the old Ford that was dragged out of a barn and brought back into service.
You are correct it says "replacing axle seals" not "how to replace axle seals". This two part video is labled "entertainment" not "educational" and is in a series of many videos I made of working on this tractor that had been sitting in a barn for more than a decade.
It's too bad that the Part 1 and Part 2 of a video series with "Replacing Rear Axle Seals" in the title doesn't actually include any reference to the seals. Thumbs down from me.
Next time, look for a title that has "how-to" in it. If you took a minute to see what my channel is all about, it's a vlog style and project following format, not a "how-to" channel. But you wouldn't take a few seconds to do that...how about you just leave your thumbs down and kick rocks.
