Awesome work! I give you tons of props for taking this on. I think it is a great idea to use OE bolts and Nuts Can't wait for the next episode. Aloha and take care my friend
Good way to take advantage of a sunny day in January. If it's anything like it is where I live, 3/4 of the days are cloudy during some winters. Talk to you on part 2....
my farmall tires had no air in them when I went to drain them therefore they drained extremely slow, I hit them w/some air and managed to powerwash the ceiling of my garage when I let off the air..lol good times!
Joe H hahahaha... I didn't get it on video, but half way through the drain process, I would rotate the valve stem to 12-o'clock and add a LOT of air...then put the hose back on and rotate to 6-o'clock... it made things move much faster...lol.
Hey since you drained your tires, when your tractor is all said and done I recommend a liquid tire ballast called Rim Guard, its sugar beat juice its alot heavier than water, completely safe if it leaks and not going to break the bank. I had my tires loaded with it. with a front loader you will want ballast. looks like its going to be a great tractor
I did a bunch of backblading on a driveway yesterday and by the end of the day my rims were coated in oil and I had NO BRAKES. will need to replace seals very soon
hlyautey I fully expected to fight with the hubs... I was all set with a couple different style pullers and a torch... but they both slipped off easily, I am still amazed.
Can't wait to see part 2. Are you going to get the tires loaded again? If so, and I don't really know the weather conditions on your ranch, but make sure you have them filled with something that doesn't freeze easily. Here in Ohio, I have heard countless stories of guys that bought cheap tractors out of Mississippi and other southern states and find out in the winter that the tires were loaded with water and it blew out the tire and or rim when it froze. They don't like using calcium anymore because its corrosive, and I cant think of what they use now, but I would definitely recommend keeping that weight when using a loader. Cant be too stable with a loader.
***** I will definately load the tires before I put it in service... but not down here...no sense in trailering it with all that extra weight. I will talk to a few ranchers in the area and see what they run in their tires. The tires have tubes in then, so corrosion is a non-issue.
Those Taiwan brake shoes must have came from Just 8-Ns. The only Chinese junk on my 8-N came from them. Of course they never bothered to tell me where they were made. Great video BTW, thanks!
The tyres are normally tubed and the ballast solution is in the tube (normally water + antifreeze) so the rim is not attacked by the solution. Remember this is a rear wheel drive tractor so ballast has been added to counterbalance the weight of the loader + whatever is being lifted / carried. It is possible for the weight on the front loader to cause the rear wheels to lift off the ground if the oil pump and lift rams are strong enough. The tractor then becomes very unstable and is likely to tip over sideways as the front axle only has a single point of contact with the tractor underneath the engine at the front!! Extra weight also obviously makes the rear wheels grip the ground much better for traction to move the tractor + load or when towing something behind. Tyres are not normally ballasted to more than about 80% of their volume. The main problem comes if you get a puncture - it is rather messy affair to repair the tube! Water based ballast is of course very cheap weight compared to steel weights!
Dan Whiteford I never thought about a tube being in there. Like you said the solution wouldn't be contacting the rims and rusting them. If you did get a puncture it would be a very messy situation to fix for sure. Wheel weights for that tractor probably cost close to what he got the entire tractor for. My brother has a sears surburban custom 10 XL with a predator 14 HP engine on it. It doesn't weight very much and we had trouble plowing snow. It has a 2 inch receiver mounted on it so we made a box to fit 3 concrete cinder blocks that weight about 40 lbs a piece. We should put weight in the front tires for lateral traction when having the plow turned and maybe even in the back too. Thanks for the long reply.
Asbestos is the most dangerous when inhaled. If you come across an asbestos brake shoe, wet it with water including the drum and any place that may have dust. Double bag it and dispose of it properly
Why worry about asbestos on your hands? It can not hurt your skin at all, only your lungs. As long as you wash your hands to get the fibers off and keep you from breathing them in you are completely safe
Glad they were on the wheels....some have them on the trans drum and the unit has to come in half to redo them....We did a Int Low Boy once that was like that.
I hate fast forward videos. Would have been nice to see what effort was involved in removing the big nut in the center. Looks like it just spins off in your hand. I plan on breaking it loose while tire is on the ground.
In my case, the axle nuts were already loose and easily removed. Had they been to the proper torque of 400 ft/lbs I would need to use an impact wrench or a socket, breaker bar and a long extension pole to get it loose. Keeping the tire on the ground to do this is a really good idea. Best of luck with your repair.
External brakes you are lucky, so you pissed your wife off and put oily brake shoes in her oven to bake the oil out of the linings lol Did you check the wheel cylinders? None of them are leaking?
Graveltrucking it's not a hydraulic brake system. the brake arm operates a cam that spreads the shoes... all mechanical...easy peasy. I used a torch to draw out the oil...no ovens were harmed in the making of this video...lol.
