A lot of people are asking what the torque setting it for the injector bolts. In the Haynes manual it says for the 1.6HDi it is 4Nm then further angled turn of 65 degrees. For the 2.0HDi it is 30Nm. Hope this helps
Thank you so much for this video. I have a Peugeot 307 1.6 HDi 2006 with a top engine oil leak 2 separate mechanics looked at it to no avail. Both missed the oil crystalisation. And referred to replacing head gasket at BER costs, suggesting scrapping and buying another car. After you pointing this out, I checked and found a poorly fitted replacement seal. I have cleaned and refitted the seal pending delivery of new replacement set. She's now running with no oil leaks and increased performance. You saved my car If our paths should ever cross, your drinks are on me ;)
Thanks a million for this video! I've been having persistent oils leaks from my 1.6 HDI, and have been banging my head against a wall trying to find them. Changed Valver cover gasket twice, and even had a new valve cover. Turns out, I forgot to change the injector seals when I did the copper washers a while back. That'll explain it! :O
Hi, just found your channel after buying a 2006 Peugeot Partner 1.6hdi van. I have a feeling i might be doing this job in the near future, so really appreciate you taking the time to do this job and share it with all on RU-vid. Cheers
Great video. A lot of garages won’t touch the injector seals. Unless a computer tells them what to do they aren’t interested so it’s good to be blue to change the seals yourself. Getting the copper washer out can be an absolute pain but your lucky the injector came out easy enough on that first injector. Thanks for sharing!
It's very easy to take the washer out. Just take a 1 half meter 8mm treaded bolt ant push it with turning move to the right then you can take it out easily.
What a ballache of a job mate! Thanks for putting this up as once again it just demonstrates that whilst it is a pain to do it is doable and the steps anyone needs to go through should they wish to do the same along with your tips. Cheers fella!
Did you clean inside the bore/cyclinder where the injector sits ? I always use a thin cloth doused in nail varnish remover and use a screwdriver to clean the bottom where the copper washer sits because if not cleaned you will still have injector leak i learned this the hard way 😂if theres carbon stuck to the bottom of the cyclinder the copper washer will not sit flush allowing the diesel to leak past the new seal hope this helps others
Nice. I have leaking seals on a C4 Picasso . Bloody hate working on cars, I’m a wood loving joiner lol.. But gotta say you made it look easy …. Great video.🤙🏽
another good video danny , as it helps lots of other people ,,,so a tip for some of your followers is ,,a cpmmon cause of limp mode with berlingo is the egr valve sticking ,,and a simple solution is to clean it with egr cleaner via the air intake it works a treat and will get peeps out of a spot of trouble ,,,keep up the good work ,,
I broke of the tip of the plastic return nozzle as well - on a 2.0 HDI. Tried to McGywer it but got a major diesel leakage. So I now have a couple of spares at the ready.
Thanks for the video mate, will try to do over next weekend on my volvo s40 1.6d. Bought it cheap from neglecting person, failed turbo cause of leaking 3 injectors as not enough oil pressure. Getting the needed tools tomorrow for cleaning the injector seat on the engine. Thanks again hopefuly mines will go as easy 😅
So injectors failed turbo? Is that for all cars related if injectors fail turbo fails ? As that's expensive fix each time injector would fail turbo following...
I'm just doing mine but a few problem. Injectors are covered in oil. I've worded a new cam cover as its possible the seal was leaking as there was lots of oil over the injector tops areas. So hopping this was the reason why oil is leaked in. Also I can't seem to get out the copper rings. Not shore if there even in there as the oil is there. I've tryed pulling the inside hole with metal wire but seems to be stuck or not there. 😢
Nice job! Good quality video. Doing this job on a Volvo S40, same engine. But I am also going to replace the injector studs and nuts because the studs stretch and can have difficulties holding the proper torque. The injectors were replaced with new seals 50 000 kms ago, and it's a mess now, so I think thats the issue. Keep an eye on that, make sure the nuts are tight, might be the culprit if you get leaks. Also ordered the locking rings (might not be necessary I see, but atleast I have them if I need them)
@@projectfearn I understand your fear of snapping studs now. I havent snapped any of them but getting them out without snapping them down where the threads start on the block, and not destroying the threads on the stud, is not easy. So gonna try my chances without changing the studs I think. Please report back with any info on the torque holding or not. Any point considering loctite on the nuts?
Hi matey, I know this is an older video, but wondered (if you see this comment) how you get the copper washer to stay on when you're putting the injectors back in? Great video, thanks 👍
It doesn't really have to stay on a such. It's bigger than the injector tip hole so you can drop it down and then put the injector in if that makes sense 🙏
Very helpful, i need to do this job on my 1.6 hdi xsara picasso. Just one question is it required to clean the bottom where the copper washer is sitting and is it safe to use carb cleaner down there?
As long as you block the hole off mate. You want as little as possible falling down that hole. Where the copper washer sits should be pretty clean though anyway 😎
Great video, I've noticed that breather pipe you mentioned at 4:30, I'm just wondering does it just sit there between the injectors and the cover or go into something? As I've noticed mine is in the same place just hanging there mine looks all gunky, I do also have oil fluid sitting around 2 of the injectors and was wondering if it comes from that breather pipe but not to sure, also do you know the correct name of that part?
After listening to a few others pal I think I had a bit of an easy ride with mine. I think 2 and 3 where pretty stuck so I soacked them with penetrative fluid and put a deep socket over the inlet pipe and started to wiggle and free them off. Hope this makes sense 😎
Hi there, when you put back the plastic cover is there any gasket that goes with it, I assume not as you might have said, I have a lot of oil leakage and wondered if it's coming from that cover as well as the injection seals. Thanks great vid will be doing this soon.
Wd 40 is petroleum based. It will expand the seal. I will use silicone spray or silicone grease. Thanks for the video. With what torque did you tighten it ??
The wd40 is only used for lubricant to fit. Any excess is wiped away. As for the torque setting I can't remember off the top of my head but it's listed in Haynes manual. Next time I'm at the unit I will have a look. 😎
Super video.. I'm a novice but think I'd even give it a try.. Key I think is having the correct tools and maybe just for me taking a whole lot of photos so I don't get confused which each part is.. Lol but ty great video very easy to follow thanks pal.
With our car we dont have tar around the injectors mainly the middle onces but it seems to be or diesel or oil idk we replaced the seals numerous times and yet no luck, Any idea what else it could be ? we also replaced the whole rocket cover still the same thing
@@projectfearn ye we did however we found out that 1 of the injectors are realyl bad like its full of oil and fuel, which we know its the seals now, we also found our limp mode issue that being the maf sensor and the temp sensor but ye when we replace the seals hopefully it will stop leaking oil
@@projectfearn okay I’ll try order a new cam cover as well the part on the right hand side going to the intake side of turbo is passing small amount of oil in to the pipe work so will do the both together. Thanks mate
Did you get any DTC caused by bad injector seal? Isn't the tar acting as a seal? Is it worth changing the injector seal if you don't notice any fault or bad engine behaviour? What if you get a small piece of tar inside the injector housing and you can't get it out? Will it damage the engine? Where did you put the small green/blue O-ring?
The tar isn't acting as a seal as you can clearly see the splatter underneath the cover. The copper washer is the seal :) and it didn't throw any codes up. If you do not see any tar or splatter I would just double check the torques of the bolts 😎
Where did you put the small green/blue O-ring? what's the part number for the plastic connectors from the fuel lines that got broken during removal? I have a lot of tar on injectors 2 and 3. Thanks
great video and commentary...waiting on garage to come back with price for doing mine....but....judging by mechanics facial expressions, he's going to hurt me. Job looks straight forward enough, I have the time and the tools it looks like I could tackle this job myself. Lots of none mechanic people saying, don't do it. but car , I think would then be a scrapper. will give it a go if price is too high, and maybe replace the injectors with refurbished units.
I think the studs can stretch and not keep their tightness. Mine have been ok. I don't know how easy the studs come out it would be a nightmare if one snapped 🥺
@@projectfearn Thanks mate im just trying to figure out my bad mpg with mine, think it may be down to the turbo intake pipe leaking on that seal where it goes in the cam cover
@@projectfearn okay 😊 I ruined my seal when I tried replacing it. And course it bubbles around there when I start the engine. Is it because of this you think or is it something else that can cause a leak there?
Awesome video man ! Loved it. Only one problem I've got: 3 injectors won't come out no matter what I try. All the workshops in my city told me that if they take off the electronic bit and try to take them out using the press, there's risk of breaking the injector, then I have to dismantle the head off the engine. What can I do ? Any advice bro ?
Don't you need to replace the 4 pairs of bolts for each injector? It seems that they get strechted over time and that's why the leaks ocurr. Do they sell any special kit for cleaning the injector housing before installing the new seals? Correct torque setting for the nuts.
I've heard people saying that the bolts can stretch and that they can not achieve the correct torque setting. I have seen replacement seal kits that come with and without replacement bolts. I didn't replace mine as I wanted to see if new seals worked first before risking snapping a stud trying to replace them and causing a major head ache. Luckily for me the seals have shown no sign of leaking since I replaced them. If they had I would of moved on to replacing the studs too. 😎
Would 2 slightly leaking injectors cause any power loss? I was looking to see if a hose had come of or split because iv lost power and noticed 2 injectors are leaking
I’ve got the same symptoms on my car and I am wondering where is actually the problem located? On the copper washer from the bottom or the seal from the top?
Hi I have a c4 picasso just bought it found black tar mostly on 3rd injector and the other 2 was leaking so using ur video iv stripped it down just wondering the copper washer is it apast the black rubber seal also first time doing this as garage wanted 200 for one injector seal lol so thought na I'll do it my self with minimal tools also I don't have a hoover with that fitment on the head to clean it
I made that with a bit of hose pipe pal. The copper washer is past the black rubber seal mate. It sits on the bottom of the injector. Get a torch down the shift and you will see it 😎
@@projectfearn I don't have any picks so what else can I put down there to get washer out got loads of skrew drivers also do I need wd40 as I don't have any mate
I took 3 out on a Peugeot expert, the 4th injector just won't come out. I use a hammer type puller and it still not coming out. Do anyone know why it stuck in there? The injector did turn slightly but just won't come out.
It is stuck because the leaking copper seal of the injector spits out hot carbon, which is like glass. And when very thick it can be hard all the way down the injector hole. I just did one that took 3 days of adding carb cleaner and chipping before I got the mounting collar to move. And then another 1/2 day to get it to turn and pull out. 1 hard, one very hard, one very very hard, and one the last easy 370,000 KM.
You have to be more gentle with the plastics my dude, they are brittle. Get an undertray for it, keeps the engine bay dry and less dusty. Awesome content.
the engine start normaly, but when I push the akselerator the engin is not running properli. Really black smoke, from exhaust, No wated in oil, no oil i water. Just simply not the engine does not rev.
