Sorry its been a while, I was made to wait ages for my hydraulic press! Today i replace the input shaft bearings! Enjoy. Business - savagegaragebusiness@gmail.com Merch - teespring.com/en-GB/stores/th...
great work thank you as someone who worked on cars when i was younger now 70 and quite sick , it gives me great joy to watch keep up the good work, cant wait to see it go back in and running
A very enjoyable video. I'm looking forward to the reassembly, the refitting of the gearbox back in the car and the first drive! You're doing a great job on the channel.
Quality work James well done mate for a first attempt at gearbox work you’re smashing it, Your videos are definitely worth waiting for! I tend to watch some of the older stuff in between for that savage garage fix. Good luck with the rest of the rebuild mate 👍
Good piece of kit to have...wouldn't be without mine. Don't forget you can use heat and cold to your advantage to expand/ contract parts that have interference fit. You'll be needing a bigger workshop if you keep expanding 😬😉🤣
Have had the same thought for years now... the Man reaches a level where the space available is starting to limit his progress as a "do-it-yourself" Person. But an upgrade is Flippin' expensive...
I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Asher Jose I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Nice one James, nice to see you getting back in the groove, It seems that nothing fazes you, you always seem to find a way to get round any problem. Looking forward to the next one.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hot tip on getting the bearings and the sleeve back on without too much hassle: use a heat gun and get the metal up to around 100 C. Then you should be able to simply drop it on the room temp shafts.
It warms me to see that your very honest about your decision when rebuilding the skoda gearbox there are too many dodgy mechanics out there.excellent work
Great work man 👏 only ever been in the company of a press at my mates work when i have needed wheel bearings pressed in, excellent bit of kit for your shed 👌
I've overhauled many manual transmissions (mostly Honda, Toyota and Nissan) and I have NEVER seen a 'sealed' bearing like those used inside a trans. The idea (usually) is to have them 'open' to be adequately and constantly lubricated with the 90# gear oil inside the trans. This type bearing is normally used for different applications and the lubrication (grease) is contained inside the plastic seals. I don't like this design and think it would be actually better to remove the seals. (No wonder they went bad) Great job feeling you way through this fairly complex job!
Brilliant channel, nice to see someone who is prepared to have a go without a fully equipped garage, just a drive and a shed, your presentation and explanations are spot on (even if it`s something you are leaning yourself). Quick tip don`t assume that ebay is going to always be the cheapest, I have got some parts much cheaper from a main dealer before, especially obsolete model parts they can be reduced just to clear stock. If you have different main dealers near ring both as the parts price can sometime vary massively.
Good stuff! Just what I needed with a beer then bed for my early start for graft in morning. Like what your doing, people on here think you should do everything like Haynes would. But your not, your like me... You get the job done 1 way or another👍😊
Hi mate hope you keep making your videos , I've enjoyed all the projects you,be done , the mini , mondeo , and now this skoda , first time I've seen a gearbox repair , I'm enjoying it , really good videos mate , I like your ways of getting round jobs , like your homemade drain plug , very good I think , thanks , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍 👍
Hello, great video! I am a precision fitter for a cnc spindle refurb company and work with this type of thing daily.... the easiest way to get bearings on to a shaft like that is to heat the inners of the bearing up slightly using a heat gun or a hot plate and ring. You will then find they expand enough So you don’t have to tap them down as this can sometimes knock the bearing out of track causing them to fail. Hope this helps👍🏻
Great job! One thing I want to mention: I would take 2 sockets and a plate and than hit it in the middle, so it goes on both shafts evenly ;) But like I said, great job done here! :)
Just a tip, keep hold of all your old bearings to use on the press. Brave man overhauling a gearbox, this is something which we get our advanced Tech’s to do.
Good video mate , Having watched all of it I think you or anyone else out there could possibly pull the bearing pack off by popping out the remaining visible seal on the left bearing , if you have a careful go at them with a very small screwdriver they will just pop out , there,s not much holding these in , having done that get hold of a suitably sized internal race puller off ebay or amazon , these have 2 legs on them that have shaped bulbs on the ends , you carefully insert each leg into the gap between the inner race & the outer ring of the bearing then turn the leg 90 degrees so that it then grips the groove for the ball bearings . Assemble the rest of the puller up above the legs & pull each bearing off a little , do this very evenly or you could easily bend things , a tip here , if you use just one puller only pull the bearing you,re working on a few thou , or you could start to bend things - terminally , either the puller or the shaft the bearing is on that you,re working on.Obviously to get the puller,s legs in you have to destroy 2 bits of the ball bearing cage in the undamaged bearing in diametrically opposite places , but you will end up changing the whole pack anyway so this does not matter . it would be very useful to know in advance the distance across the bearing,s ball tracks please , so that we out here can arm ourselves with the right sized pullers . For those that have never pulled any bearings off before , you use a stout , undamaged & well machined piece of flat steel bar across the top of the shafts to screw your puller central forcing screw down onto , with plenty of the same sort of oil that the gearbox uses on it to lube it , but still keep everything clean , no muck , grit , bits or dust must get in there .Ensure that you,re not pressing straight on the end of a fine internal caged bearing in the end of the shaft ! O.K. that,s my 2 penn,orth mate , it will be good to know the size of these bearings, please reply on here , thanks .
Re the oil flowing across your workbench in the last video when you separated the gearbox - I forgot to message you to say IKEA sell a tray (BAGGMUCK 603.297.11) which is great to have on a workbench to catch oils and small rolly stuff. Great video - really liking this gearbox fix series.
Hey, I had a problem with my gearbox too my diff seemed better days when your driving the car gearbox does sound like helicopter so I've put a new gerbox
Also, if there's an outside and an inside, which is always the case, I clean it / them with what ever system is necessary. I save allot of time and money, with this approach.
you can bring the ball bearings and the sleeve to around 150 ° C, then you can almost easily attach them. an induction plate with a piece of sheet steel (3-4mm) works well for warming up.
Just to add my experience Ocatvia Mk3, 1.6tdi, 2014, gearbox MWW 0A4 was repaired under warranty at 80k km due to noise early in mornings sounded as cow, mouuuu. the noise disappeared once the motor came warm. Outside conical bearings on the diff - 2st. plus the two needle bearings and new oil - G052527 (or something like that was the specification). Trough, after 40km now the noise is back. Digging in documentation of the repair I found that the official service in Norway has tried to add 200mL oil to mitigate the noise with no success. Now i bought 2Litres Castrol V (corresponding to spec as highly recommended to follow manufacture recommendations), made same 17mm tool a you :) and was ready to change the oil to try something and check for debris as I still have warranty for the repairment. However, opened the reverse switch and add 200ml 80W oil (what I had in the garage) and whalla - no that mouuuu noise anymore in any circumstances including heavy trailer. Additional research on net shows that even in technical specs the gear box oil capacity is specified as 1.7L when refill out/in and 1.9L when dry fill. However, as I understand Skoda recommend now to add 2.2-2.3L instead. I assume all that is because the gear box is tilted by 12degree back and the fill in plug is not reference oil level anymore on O3 Mk3 models, oil fill in via the reverse switch, easy access under the air filter box, 22mm spanner, same 10mm hose fits well here. May be some bearings are over the oil level as box tilted now and having the car over the night takes them to dry and the noise is coming next day first 100metters.
Thanks for some informative videos. Has anyone wondered why the 2 bearings are closed bearings? They both run in oil from the gearbox so why make them closed? Would it be an idea to open the bearings when rebuilding the gearbox?
There good for dimensions and fluid capacity and torque settings really I wouldn't recommend using one if your a novice mechanic they don't really explain in great detail or if you have one you'll know that looking up a fix in one is a ball ache as for instance changing a blower resistor, you get to the page about blower resistor and it says to remove glovebox please refer to page whatever lmao so yer if you've got a problem and your a novice my advice is to look on RU-vid or ask a garage don't just buy a Haynes manual and expect it to work miracles 👍👍👍👍
You could have had a 2 tonne bottle jack in there to press the bearing off. Even though it’s a 12 tonne press doesn’t mean u need 12 tonne of force for it to come off. Use a bit of heat to expand the collar and it will slide on without hitting it on
I’ve done a similar repair in the past, I put the gear cluster and main shaft in the freezer for a few hours and get the bearings warm in the oven, wife moans about freezer and oven stinking of gear oil, but bearings are just a simple push fit due to expansion and contraction of the metal.
Si quieres que dure esa caja ,quita esos tapones azules de los rodamientos y así le llegará más cantidad de aceite ,de esta manera dura unos 400.000 km y tapados unos 100.000 km ,, He armado muchas cajas de estas y siempre lo hago así ,,estos rodillos vienes con grasa especial ,pero no duran nada taponados,,,,saludos desde Canarias
