Replacing Trailblazer Power Steering Lines - Bad Leak FIXED 

The Failblazer is living up to its name. It’s on a pretty impressive streak of failures. What have you replaced on your Trailblazers?

You know it’s a b***h of a job when all the videos start in daytime and end with darkness and crickets.

Dropping the control arm is the key, worked great. I moved the new line away from the frame using zip ties to keep them in place. I used a threaded bolt to screw in to grab the old seals and pulled them out. Both seals need to be replaced even if you are only replacing one line. Place the new seals in the rack with the largest OD outward and lube with clean power steering fluid. Thank you for this video, it make for an easy job, a bit time consuming but satisfying.

I’m tackling this job tomorrow for a guy I did the compression fitting fix on a year ago. The fittings hold up great but no there is more rusted spots. So now we’re just relaxing whole lines. Great video!!!

Awesome tutorial, ballsy to put a used set in but I respect that hustle!

I just did this job, I started roughly a week ago and devoted at least a few hours every day. The 8mm bolt in the steering rack that holds the high and low pressure lines was rounded, rusted and threaded into the rack so bad I had to replace the rack. Thankfully Dan took care of us on that one, too. So I ended up replacing the rack too. Big tip for getting the lines into the rack, run a single strip of electrical tape on the back side of the two lines when you are trying to fasten them down with the 8mm bolt into the rack, it worked like a charm in keeping the low pressure line from popping out of the brace groove. Thank you for the videos!

A neighbor asked me to do this for her. After seeing this no way am I going to do it. Thanks for the heads up.

I love the “what now” within the first 5 secs 🏅that’s gold

This video helped a lot! Awesome and thanks! Here are some tips that I found helpful as well. Use a lag bolt (about 1/2 and grind the point off) or coarse threaded bolt to screw into the cap seals to help pull them from the rack. Takes seconds. Trim the corner off the inner wheel well forward of the swing arm bolt for room to remove lines. I found that the new cap seals leaked like a sieve so I chucked those and opted for o-rings. So far, so good.

Awesome video. This guy is hilarious. Respect his patience. Very informative and straight to the point. Very nicely done.

Thanks for this video man! I just picked up an '03 trailblazer after a suicidal deer took out my pontiac vibe. I was actually excited, like man my first SUV and despite being 17 years old with 232k miles, this thing is clean and in fantastic mechanical shape...well today I saw the dreaded brown power steering lines. I'm glad I saw your video, I think I'm gonna go ahead and try to splice in a piece of line with compression fittings, I don't feel like fiddling with all the extra stuff. (its cold out!)

I just double flared and had a union spiced where line rusted thru 4 years later still working great

Thank you so much for making this video I did this myself to my 07 it saved me about $600 keep making the great content

These 4.2 straight six trailblazers are spectacular engines man I've seen many of them just run and run

After watching this I decided to do the job. Success, took me about 5hrs. I replaced all three lines. I stuck with the oe version lines with button seals. Search out the video about removing the button seals with lag bolt. I spent an hour with a pick and got no where. That video was key. 2008 trailblazer 6cyl.

Helpful video. I tried this two years ago and gave up. I ended up paying shop $1000 to get it done. Dan should have used new hoses/pipes instead of installing old rusted hardware.

Thank you so much Dan! I have been not at all looking forward to doing this but your tutorial has helped so so much!!! Very thorough and awesome. I think I can fix my Failblazer with ease....I hope!.... To Be Continued!!!

Thank you for your video... One of my hoses is soaked through, not leaking on ground yet.. you saved me hours of work...I've decided to put it on hold for now... :D :D :D ...

I'm battling lines spliced together with compression fittings. This is helpful as I'll be just replacing both the lines

Things I did on one I picked up at a good price (was Fan Clutch/Waterpump/Radiator/plugs/struts/tires/brakes/hoses/shocks/battery) - as live in South and Drive over 100+ Miles round trip into work, also the Serp belt/pulley/tensioner - NO Engine lights and *PAID FOR*

Thanks for the great video! If you have trouble fishing a tube or pie through a hole, you can try to fish a clothes hanger through the destination hole (the hole you're trying to get the pipe into) at the other end, then connect your pipe to it with electrical tape, then pull the coat hanger and pipe or hose through. Also, putting electrical tape on the areas where you had already put Rustoleum is risky. The reason why is that with electrical tape, no matter how tight you wind it, water still will find a way in there! And when it does, it's living in there! So you can imagine the problems that can happen with that. You might be OK with your vehicle, but the Rustoleum should suffice on it's own, IMO. And it's usually when water "puddles" in areas that you have this rust phenomonom, and elec tape will only allow water to embed there and stay there longer rather than air dry off.

This video really helped me out a lot with my 2007 also had to do transmission lines. Ohio winters can be brutal on cars love the content keep up the great work. Love the harbor freight reviews too

Just a bit of advice... When all done replacing the line... And before starting the vehicle... Jack up fron ot truck to get wheels off the ground... Turn the wheels all the way to left and right.. do rhis 25 cycles... This will get the air out of the line.. and prevent the foaming and save the the pump... Now you can lower the truck and start engine... Oh. Check fluid levels as you turn the wheels... Do not let it get low.. that will let air back into the line.. this will save you from replacing the pump

Nice video I don't watch it all the way through I got up to the point where you had the upper control arm removed. You're going to have to have that realign now you know. All in all good video dude.

This vid saved me lol, I've been working on both of my Trailblazers and o was dreading this repair

After installing new power steering lines you have to leave the pump reservoir cap off or loose in order for the system to properly bleed the excess air. Leaving the cap on the pump reservoir will build pressure like a balloon with nowhere for the air bubbles to go. With the cap off you will see air bubbles rise and pop. Anyone doing this should expect to do that and even use a brake bleeder on the pump to eliminate air from the system.

Thank you for a great informational video, well done!

Terrible engineering on those trailblazers. Just terrible!! I'm going through the same issue.... After watching this video , that's a tough job I don't think I want to put myself through.... Thanks for the video

hi, i love your video on the power steering line. I found a better way to pull those lines out and install them. Pull out battery tray and loosen the fuse box and the wires can be moved towards the engine, it will give you a clear way.

Awesome detail and explanation. Thank you

Thank you soo much for this video I have a 2008 i6 with currently 246k on it and my just started leaking cus of a rust hole

some helpful tips. jack the front end up so both tires are off the ground, easier to turn and less chance of flat spotting your tires from bleeding. When bleeding leave the cap off the power steering pump, but while bleeding make sure the reservoir doesn't go empty. But if you like taking showers in power steering fluid leave the cap on, or slowly very slowly take the cap off so air will come out and not a shower of power steering fluid. Great video tho, thanks

Outstanding bruh! I have a 2003 Tb leaking from underneath some where in the middle of the frame . Looks like its leaking some where in the soft line . But anyways thanks for doing the video . I know it will help me . Will let you know out come.

Thank you very much. Great vídeo, very helpfull.

Just finished mine. 04 Envoy here in Vermont. At first it was going to be a repair at the main failure point; under the large rubber grommet held to the frame by two prong half round shaped clamp. Because of other affected/rusted areas I went with full replacement. It was brutal. I’m very new at this. If you live in the rust belt it will be hell. My upper control arms where out. I cut out the old lines from the wheel well and started installing them from the top to the right above the strut tower. Even after days of PB Blaster all of the 8 and 10 mm bolts that hold the lines will very difficult not to snap off or round off. The 10 mm under the fan shroud can be gotten with a 3/8 wobble attached to about 24/30 inches of extension. The two 8/10 that hold clamp down on top of the rail will likely round off unless you soak and wire brush repeatedly for days. The next is the large two pronged clamp and grommet which is attached to the side of the frame rail. It too will have issues, just lees then the other bolts. Last the 8 mm bolt holding the two lines into the rack. I removed the axel beforehand to do the seals. It’s possible to reach the rack bolt without doing that but I would imagine it would be much mir difficult. Hopefully you have small hands and can line up the socket with about a 6 inched extension to get to this horizontally/ dead on from the other side of the frame work while keeping the lines in places with the other hand. After market seals will likely leak. I used lines from Rock Auto that came with all the clamps, grommets and the two duck bill/ button rack seals. I purchased an extra two button seals for $6. But those seals leaked immediately after removing the old one with a threaded bolt.The lines were good the clamps nothing like the original ones so try to save any many of those as possible. For the duck bill seals, I would suggest that AC Delco part number 26080380 would preform better. Pre soak them in p.s fluid, flaps up. You do not need to remove the battery and the tray mount like some suggest. A long extension a d a 14 mm crows foot might work on the bottom of the pump for that line, the other is a tension clamp. Do not forget to replace the tiny o ring on top of the new line going back into the pump. Sorry if I’ve been scattered, just came down with Lyme. I used 1/4 drive magnet sockets and cheap nutters setters on the two hardest to access bolts. 3/8 to loosen everything. Be sure to seat all you sockets and wrenches as to avoid round. Do not over torque when tightening.

Praise the Lord you did it!

If you remove the battery and battery tray horn and the four 13 mm head bolts that hold the fuse box in place. Hold the fuse box up so you can finagle the line underneath all the wires and save yourself a ton of time and have them located properly.

*TITLE is owned and a LINE or lines to FIX beats someone making $$$$$ of payments every month owing TENS of thousands*

Very many thanks man. You do good

BRILLIANT IDEA! When Purchasing a New Vehicle, can I have The ENTIRE FRAME AND ALL METAL PARTS Sprayed with Rustolium Paint!🤔🤔👍👌🥰🤪🤪🤪😶🧐😎👩‍⚖️👨‍⚖️😎🇺🇸.

Need to do this and an AC compressor. Maybe I'll just get rid of it, this looks like a huge job.

I have 3 trail blazers of that era. All 3 rusted same place . since the rusted are was localized to just the tower I just spiced in New sections with compression fittings . much easier than replacing that whole line and equally as good. The cooler will go next and aftermaket cooler again easier and cheaper than a New gm cooler.

Great video, thanks! At 4:50 - I had the leak of the pipe under the rubber retaining block. I cut the bad part out and put in a piece of brake line with two compression fittings. Its been working fine for 2 years. I had to cut like a 1/2 inch of the block off as the compression fittings take up some of that space. There is another video on that procedure. Not trolling or being critical just my two cents. At 4:50 I would not bend the bracket out as the screwdriver slips it hits the wire harnesses. The plastic covers might crack more than they already are and maybe a wire breaks. No idea if that is common, just a risk I prefer to avoid. When I did the line patch, I took off the bracket. There is a bolt that holds the bracket on. Will be rusty, use PB Blaster the day before. Use a box wrench and work it back and forth. Using a breaker bar will most likely break the bolt head off. This way you can clean out the rubber block, the lines and the area under the block. Let it dry out. I drilled holes in the rubber block to let more air circulate. Also not sure how you did it, but leave the block off the lines until you get the lines attached, this allows more play. After the lines are attached to the rack, put the rubber block back on and reattach the bracket.

This probably saved me from killing someone! Hello shop with lift! Here I come! Yes i'm bent over

Wonder if spraying clearcoat paint on exposed metal lines before installing new ones would stop future corrosion? Instead of coating with grease

What now is a pretty common phrase I say to my Trailblazer

Ty great video

Thanks for the video doing it in a couple of days not looking forward to it

I bought a new pressure line which comes with 2 new seals that go in the rack. Is says to remove them with a pick tool. What would you do, keeping in mind how far down the rack is from the top, the only way to access the seals, would you, if the seals didn't leak before, reuse them or take the extra time and remove and replace the seals? Thanks.

The seals in the steering rack do you have to take the old ones out? I'm having a hell of a time taking them out.

Since it’s under pressure would there be a torque spec for each of the bolts or would it not matter

10:11 I am having the same trouble with my friends Trail Blazer getting those lines and holes and nut lined up. Question do the lines slide in on their own? Or does the bolt push the lines in as I wrench it back in?

great video. I have a question. when you say cooler line, It doesn't actually go to the cooler correct. that line goes back to the pump correct.

I'm about to do a set of these lines at work. Shop Key calls it a 2.6 hour job, this should be interesting.

Wish you would have showed how to get over shock tower

I bought an '03 Envoy SLT(same as Trailblazer) that spent much of its life in Michigan. It had migrated here to California when I bought it 3 years ago. Rust had taken out the return ( _LOW_ pressure) PS line where it lays along the top of the frame. Accessing the rotted section was easy through the rubber inner fender flap in the LF wheel-well. I unbolted its clamp, lifted the line and cut out the bad section (3-4 inches). For a patch-in piece I cut a 6" section out of a steel braided faucet connector hose, slid it into place and fastened the ends using 4 small hose clamps - 2 on each end. This "repair" is something I'm not particularly proud of but it has held tight and been leak free for the last 3 years. Just my 2 cents here -- or rather 5 bucks at Home depot. Btw, aside from a coilpack this work vehicle has been trouble free. I can live with the noisy sway bar links and the sometimes inaccurate fuel gauge. It still looks and drives great for the $1200 I paid for it. Ymmv.

Good vid thanku

How long did it take for both lines? I'll only have to replace one.. the one in the front near the pulley

So the hose for the cooling system is what is messed up on mine the godamned thing foams bubbles like crazy I have to replace fluid every 1000 miles just today it was almost dry

4:29 ...dont pry that bracket back, just unbolt it...10mm socket on a ratchet...first unbolt the ground wire that is beside it , the the bracket will unbolt and come right off

Would it be easier just to run some line with flared ends from point A to point B instead of trying to make the factory pre bent piece fit?

Man that's good work👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👍🏾.. How long was that job🤔???

After much searching and finally putting dye in the system, it looks like the leak is in that rubber grommet up by the strut tower... not sure if I really want to tackle this, ugh !

Was that a 5/8 in wrench at the pump high pressure side ?

06 trailblazer has this problem. If i had to i could do it ,i replaced them on my Santa fe. I'm going to save myself some misery and spend the money to have a shop do it😂

How did you get those o rings out is our problem

FYI I have to change those lines in my Ole ladies trailblazer. Some owner before used compression fitting and it was leaking like crazy. I was able to tighten the compression fittings quite a bit and stopped the leaking, but I feel compression fitting work loose due to engine vibration and isn't a good fix.

How did you get the high pressure line to go in (to the rack)? I got all my lines out and got the new ones run, just can't get the high pressure one to plug into the rack. The low pressure one is no problem. Whats the trick?

I watched another video guy cut the lines where they were rusted near the clamp holding them to the wheel well and repaired the lines using section of new line and brass compression fittings. wont work for me as the lines are to badly rusted. I'm wondering if it would be easier to cut the new lines and install them then use the compression fittings to rejoin them at the wheel well. would that make it easier to get the new lines in wouldn't have to deal with getting them over the strut?

Where does the green O ring go? I gotta do this soon

Do you know the steering houses kit part number?

How did u get those seals in at the rack? I have been fighting it for days and I replaced rack and pinion those little things fall out when you put those hoses in u lost one , now i am waiting for new ones

I was gonna watch your video but then saw I would have to watch 97 ads.

I had a f150 that would leak power steering fluid only when the wheels weren't straight. I had to remember to park with the wheels straight or Id end up with a huge puddle on my driveway

If anyone watches this,when youre turning the wheel to get air out of the system, leave the cap off and you wont blow the return line off the pump..

I have this truck . fun times . lol

Hey what would you charge for this job and where are you located?😊

Great work, not sure what the advantage is of having those hard aluminum lines. That fluid is basically a hydraulic oil. I properly psi rated oil resistant hose is a better solution.

Hey Daninator. What size is the O ring on the end going into the pump? TIA!

he missed showing the most important part....the seals that go in the rack....make sure you dont damage them putting them in....or , you will be taking those lines back off the rack and replacing them

You know you own a POS when you have to have a spare car for parts. Change my mind!

I got something going on with the wife's 2005 Trail Blazer...massive leak from the power steering line or pump, don't know which one so far. Guess I'm crawling under the car after filling up the PS reservoir to see what's leaking. If it's the PS line leaking like in the video, I'm inclined to splice a high pressure hose to bridge the rusted part of the line if that is where the leak is. See if that fixes the problem. If its the PS pump then I guess I'm in for the long haul to replace it!

Unfortunately this doesn't help solve my current problem. Due to lack of money and a power steering leak I have to replace my line with ones from the junkyard. I'm there now trying to understand how to get the middle metal bracket off the middle of the frame under the pulleys. The bolt holding the bracket is in top not the side making it impossible to get a tool onto it.

your parts truck keeps giving. how much money do you think it has saved you so far?

Hi.. how long did take approx to replace the lines ?

How long did this repair take to do in real time?

How bad is a rack replacement on this beast? Is it doable with jack stands , good hand tools.. or is it better with jack stands , good tools , a bottle of bourbon , and a one way ticket to the boneyard?

Same exact leak on mine (2004) however..I think I'm just gonna cut it..put a rubber hose over, clamp down..hopefully save me time ,money, and the headache...

🤔💥👨‍🎓! Can we invent a watersnake type aperatus with torque connections because ASE CERTIFICATION IS NEEDED FOR SUCH A LONG HARD JOB! OR IS IT! Yes, yes it is! Also, can we use Rustolium Spray Paint to prevent iron oxide buildup?

O ring on power steering line connection to rack. Lost all fluid in short order. Drip drip..... anyone know a part number? Old o ring deformed on one side, evidently from the factory the joint is severely side loaded.

What wrench is at 3:15?

Keep the cap on the reservoir loose when bleeding.

After seeing this video... I'm charging myself 175 bucks to fix this.

Tengo fuga en conectores que van en cremallera ¿Que lleva un oring o que empaque lleva tendrán una foto o algo

100% anyone doing this job just cut the line. It goes in and out through the wheel well. I have done 4 of these the exact same way and how it holds up is great. I know others that have done it and has lasted for years. I mean if you have the flare tool just use a flare union instead but compression fittings will hold up as good as any flare. It is so much easier to do in 2 pieces. If you cut it it can be done in about an hour.

Just finished putting my hoses in. This video was a big help. It was still a pain, but the trick with dropping the upper control arm and bending the inner fender did make it easier. I still have to hook up the lines on the rack. . I'm tempted to go the extra step and take out the axle shaft to get clearance to get my hands in there . I'm on the fence with that though. I'll see how much of a pain it is to hook up the lines first! Great video.. Thanks for sharing!

It's embarrassing that engineers have so many years of schooling but can't understand that putting the body in the way of a long control arm bolt is beyond impractical. I shouldn't have to use crude methods to re-engineer a car and bend the body just to get the bolt out. Weaving the new lines in is a shit show as well.

Forgot got to mention, Changed Transmission Fluid/Filter and replaced the grommet in the Trans (something YOU need to do). Along with DIFF Fluids and Trans Case....

Hey daninator , fixed the hose leak, but there is still a leak , a major leak. In the rack! Any good ideas to put a bandaid on a heart attack? It’s an 05 with an absolute crap-Ton of miles(216,000 to be exact) my daughter bought it a year ago for 2 grand. And it’s been decent so far. .. it does have a slight lower engine knock for a couple minutes at start up. But oil pressure is good, a/c is cold, rubber is good , radio is loud. But man , I’m stuck, brother. 216k ? Man , i don’t even want to know what’s waitin after that rack unit replacement. What’s next? Tranny? Transfer case? She loves the truck, but man I’m a wonderin if it ain’t time for that big ole magnet in the sky to muckle onto it and take it away!! Lol..

I am not looking forward to replacing the mainline. Fingers crossed.