Restoration of an Early Scottish Tall Case Clock 

You’re very welcome.

Thank you for the info.

Ok. I have some other repairs to complete but I'll get to the Cuckoo & Quail as soo as I can.

You're welcome!

@@DaltonClockRepair Thank you 😃

Thanks Robert. I plan to work on the Cuckoo & Quail behind me in the shop soon. It's my own clock and they're the ones that get pushed to the back of the line.

@@DaltonDroneZone Great can't wait to see a Cuckoo /Quail video!

Thanks so much for the kind words. I believe this clock dates from the early 1800's. I couldn't find info on the clockmaker himself but the workmanship and design seems to fit that time period. I had to install three bushings. The way the plates are secured should make no difference on spreading them to reindex the wheels.

It is superficialy easy to rebush though centering bearing holes to compensate for lateral wear can be problematic for the enthusiast refurbisher, I tend to leave alone unless essential

Thanks for the suggestion. That only applies to tall case clocks with wooden barrels.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Tall case bell strike movement.

Thanks for the compliment. I don't recommend altering the movement to any great degree by adding some kind of shut-off mechanism. One way to lower the sound of the bell is to cut off the finger or thumb of an old glove and slip it over the hammer. It deadens the sound hopefully keeping your wife and grandsons happy.

@@DaltonClockRepair Hi Mark, thanks again for your advice. I came up with a very simple solution that I am pretty confident will not harm the clock. I loosened the nut at the top of the bell post and tied a string to the post. Then, I threaded the string across the top of the bell and down through the slot in the saddle board through which the strike weight cable passes. A 75 gram weight on the hanging end of the string is enough to tilt the bell just out of reach of the hammer. On the hour, the strike mechanism goes, quietly, with a whirr and soft "thunks". It is loud enough to hear if you are in the same room but not any further. Removing the weight allows the bell to tilt back into range of the hammer and ring. There is a spring that cushions the fall of the hammer's shaft when it "dry fires" so I don't think it will suffer metal fatigue. Thanks for getting me to think "outside the box" on this. John

You're welcome!

The clock has been returned to the customer. The date ring usually sets on a couple rollers that look like pulleys. They tend to keep it in place. You maybe missing those rollers.

They are movement holders and can be bought from Timesavers or Merritt's Antiques.

Thanks@@DaltonClockRepair

I work from the bottom up, aligning the wheels into the pivot holes. You can put a taper pin in the bottom stand offs to keep them from separating again.

Ronald im in the same boat did you get a reply ?

I realise this is an old post but If you look at the video at about 1:09:00 you will see him put the minute hand on then a washer and then the taper pin, the minute hand is only held by friction so you may need to put a thin washer under the main washer so when inserting the taper pin you need to apply a little pressure to reveal the full hole for the taper pin, hope this makes sense.

I realise this is an old post and you probably have solved the problem by now, if you haven't look at the reply I have sent to Ronald Clift.

Make sure to use a washer on the outside of the minute hand and press in a little to expose the hole to insert the taper pin. Thanks to those of you who have already made this suggestion.