want to see more? / sparetimeshop I bought a lot of stuff at the flea market and now i have to fix it This episode: 2 rusty axes (there are no other episodes) upcoming projects and behind the scenes instagram : ruben.vd3 / ruben.vd3
When unsure if the tool steel is oil hardening or water hardening, try an oil quench first. If it does not file down easily, then the oil hardened it. If it still files, then it's a water hardening steel. Reheat it and renormalize, then reheat and water quench.
At last someone who does not want to re-manufacture tools. Cleans them up and makes them serviceable. No aluminum handles and brass inserts. You did well
I am not so sure about that, it is only "half-way flat". If that was the intention why wasn't it just made with an asymmetrical eye and one completely flat side (i.e. the blade just runs straight across one side of the eye)? I don't think it would any better a job bent like that than straight like he repaired it. There are various types of carpenter's axes around with off-set/asymmetrical eyes, one flat side, and a chisel grind, this axe blade is pretty thin, I am going with bending during use, all things considered much more likely.
More or less the same axe (from the same maker) www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-polet-borsbeke-bearded-ax-axe-1852658602 ....a trade tomahawk???www.elmerroush.com/trade-axe/
As constructive feedback, when youre hanging/putting a handle on an axe you want to taper the end that goes into the eye instead of cutting sharp corners. This prevents the wood splitting as well as provides a stronger mechanical force to keep the axe head firm on the handle, besides that great work they look very nice(update) i forgot to mention when seating an axe head onto a handle, you want to hand press the head onto the end of the handle and the drive it on the rest of the way by holding the axe upside down and striking the bottom of the handle with a mallet, this does the best job of firmly seating the head on the handle
You did a great job but I’d file them burs on the axe head then sharpen it. Also add linseed oil to the handle to give it extra strength and so that the wood doesn’t rot. Other than that, great build
Love the job you did on both the axes, especially the handles. With only a quick glance, I think the reason the smaller head didn't split as well is due to how thin the blade is (the thinner the blade the more it should be used for chopping and the thicker the blade for splitting). As for the larger axe head... I believe that the original way to head it was to put the head on at the bottom of the handle and slip it up until it stops, similar to hatchets.
Greetings from Ireland! Finally a good woodworker that isnt American!! Just one note, when you find wood that had or has worms take it out of your workshop straight away (could spread to your other wood stock). Nice video! Enjoyed the stairs video.
Nice attempt. But You destroyed both handles with that shoulders, adding a weak spot and breakpoint to them. And you destroyed the tempering on the edge of the second axe.
Ok this is the first video I watched of yours. (I checkled out more after) and subscribed just the the stroking of your wood scene. Hilarious. Great content to far keep it up
I really appreciate the fact that you didn't even TRY to make them look brand new. You allowed them to look like the vintage tools that they are, and maintain their rugged good looks!
+ierig I can agree with you on the handle, however a mirror polish would be inappropiate because of the overall aesthetic of the axes. The patina greatly contributes to this and a mirror polish simply does not fit. Apart from that, old tools tend to rust easily so a mirror polish would be impractical except on the edge if you want it sharp.
3:29 you should not use the chisel like that as any slip up or mishap and there goes your hand.I did and i almost lost my thumb,i had to get 2 stiches.
watching back, you're absolutely right. it's something I didn't really pay attention too but i'll be more carefull next time. hope the stiches healed well :)
The perfectionist in me is screaming that the large axe lost it's temper and needs ti be hardened again. It is also screaming from seeing the nick in the edge and that those axes need to be sharpened. I see you had fun with your project and that is what matters though.
The larger axe is homemade, and not very well. If you look closely it’s just a piece of smashed pipe with a sheet of steel welded to it. Most likely hardware store steel. Not high quality
few tips for making them better, lightly burn the handles to a bit of a dark brown by just moving a flame over it, and put some kind of oil on it after you sanded it smooth. Way better for longevity of the handle. Also You have some major edge damage on the bigger axe, really need to grind it down to a smooth edge and then sharpen it. I would also have sanded the smaller axe handle to get rid of the user wear and tear from before.
Note for future reference, when you saw in to the head of the handle for your wedge, only saw half to 2/3's of the way down. This provides more wood at the base to avoid splitting.
Ok so you prefer use white vinegar than electrolysis? That is good to know! Have you ever used citric acid to remove rust? I don't have powerfull tools and I love videos who show handly and simple process with only little tools... Thank you for your work (you have a new suscriber) :)
I haven't tried citric acid, I used vinegar because I had it laying around in the house an I have to say its by far the easiest way to remove any rust. Thanks for the subscription :)
I also use vinegar but the electrolysis looks very effective! But after all because I do not have the necessary equipment to test electolysis I will stay on the vinegar technique, definitely simpler! ^^
Yes, and it dissolves chrome too (or the sort of shiny coating found on some contemporary tools) but if you only want to remove rust from a historically unimportant object, for USE IT (and not to... re-sold it for example??) it's realy perfect
