Man I am so glad I am not the only one who hates those 3 jaw pullers as well. I found that a slide hammer has worked as well when my jaw puller somehow traveled into my front yard.
Andy, be sure to clean your shafts of all rust and paint before pulling pulleys or gears. They were assembled clean and smooth, they won't come off if they are not in the same shape as they were when assembled.
Your gear wheel looks like it's made of a phenolic resin composite. Various trade names for different types. Some use paper others use cotton sheet for the matrix. It's just like GRP but uses paper/cotton instead of glass fibre and phenolic resin instead of epoxy. Goes by the name of Paxolin, Novotext, Tufnol. Bakelite is an early version that used wood flour. Your example is probably Tufnol which is a laminated plastic available as sheet and rods, which is made from layers of paper or cloth which have been soaked with phenolic resin and pressed under heat. Its high resistance to oils and solvents have made it suitable for many engineering applications. Trade names may be different in the USA from the ones we use in the UK. WARNING wear a respirator if you cut this stuff. The dust that comes off is nasty and will do your lungs no good at all
I think that Bakelite may be different: it does not have any matrix material inside and as far I I can remember, it is using formalin in the making process. I am pretty sure we had a demonstration in chemistry class when in high school.
That is a phenolic gear, they are commonly used in metal Lathes as well. All the clausings Lathes i run have the same type of change gears for threading. Usually the phenolic gears will wear or break if something terrible happens saving the other parts of the gear train. Heat is your friend when pulling those types of things apart. Even just a butane torch that plumbers use. Warm up the hub while using the puller to expand the hub making easier to pull. The bearing on the shaft, flip it upside down and heat the inner racethen use two screw drivers to pop it off. Same with the one in the housing, heat up the housing and tap it out. Interference is minimal on those fits. Less than .0005. Half a thou maybe one at the most. You can buy those pulley blanks from mcmaser carr then just bore and broach the keyway. They may actually have it already bored and broached for nominal size shafts. Let me know if you need any parts made, I'm a machinist
That gear looks like phenolic micarta, I've seen that done in the past. From google - Phenolic Gears exhibits superior shear force, help reduce machinery noise, absorbs destructive vibration unlike metal gears, phenolic is non-conductive, protects the mating metal gear train, and are known to outlast metal gears under severe continuous service.
Try gently applying even heat to that small box casting, and then cooling the bearing with a price of ice or cold steel, the heat will cause the metal to grow a small amount and the cooling should "shrink" the bearing a small amount. Also if you can find an Arbor press it will work better than a screw driver to push out those bearings, but you might need to have a makeshift "punch" made to rest evenly on the side of the bearing, most arbor presses have square shafts. Also, Evaporust might be a good investment for those rusty parts, (I am a Handtool Rescue fan) it's skin/kid/animal safe and works pretty quickly to remove rust. I've used it on several old wrenches and sockets.
Hey, looks like you got your 3 jaw puller unevenly installed. It looks like it's in 2 jaw mode with an extra jaw on the side. Having the jaws in even thirds will make it easier. You can also snug up the joints, making them stiffer and thus stay in place better. Awesome tool you got there, looking forward to the next episodes
The phenolic gear could be an overload protection. That gear will break if the system is ever overloaded. I’ve seen that kind of mechanical protection in other appliances.
Andy, I would find a machine shop and see if they could press that one bearing out of that body and maybe they would have an idea of how to get that other one off that rod. Best of luck. Looking forward to the next video on this!
Well that was *not* like watching Hand Tool Rescue or My Mechanics!😄 It amazes me what you take on Andy, hope you get some answers to your questions. The only thought I had for removing those bearings was to ask at a bicycle repair shop if there is a particular tool for the job. 👍
The gear is made of phenolic, also called Celeron, it's a kind of resin impregnated mesh quite common on old machine tools ( they are quite a lot less noisy than metal on metal gears)
got one of those in the engine of my renault dauphine. They were set to break at 50'000 km to prevent the other metal gears of the distribution to break! Also a similar one on my old Swedish drill press.
Celeron is just a trade name for cotton textile-phenolic resin, ie cotton-reinforced Bakelite. Other names are Turbax, Resitex, and Novotext. Bakelite is one of the first plastics invented around 1907 by the Belgian-American chemist Leo Hendrik Baekeland when he condensed phenol and formaldehyde. It was often used as gears in car engines' direct drive to the camshaft as it is flexible and quiet-running. Perhaps someone here remembers the old dial phones commonly made by Bakelite, and how many steering wheels haven't been made of steel reinforced pressed Bakelite?
@@SteifWood yes I remember the old Bakelite telephones, also there were light fixtures and fittings made of it here in the uk. There was all sorts of other stuff too like handles and knobs for furniture and appliances, cases for radios and early televisions. It was ubiquitous in the fifties and sixties but I didn't know it was used in gearing, couldn't believe it when it showed up in Andy's old saw, I'm guessing it must have been a failsafe device designed to break at over-speed.
You need a bearing splitter for the bearing that is on the shaft. For the bearing the the casing I would knock out the inner race and do tack welds inside the the outer bearing race which would pull in the race walls enough for you to pop it out.
The original motor was probably direct coupled, if you wanted to do it the same way I'd look at the finger couplings (not even sure if that's the right name) that you'd use for a hydraulic pump - you can get whatever shaft sizes you need on either end. I'd say a bearing puller, which would clamp underneath would do that bearing on a shaft. Probably a brass punch will help with other bearing, that's probably just going to be a pain. Kieth over at vintage machine tools would know a lot about it and seems like a really decent guy
I’ve got an old direct drive bandsaw that I’ve restored. It’s a 20” American Sawmill Machinery brand. The motor is a 3 phase 870 rpm 1 hp motor. You will want to stay around that rpm range to keep your surface feet per minute at a reasonable level. My bandsaw is around 4,000 sfpm which is about as fast as you would want to go. I think you might struggle to find a single phase motor with the right rpm’s. But that’s ok, because then you can learn how to install a VFD if you don’t have 3 phase in your shop. Keep up the good work!
The gear looks to be made of a resin reinforced fibreglass material called micarta. I think this was the original design for the part which was meant to fail if something seized up. You need to calculate the rpm of the original motor to determine if you can get a direct drive. If the calculations come out to some odd rpm, then you may need to consider 3 phase motor and VFD or DC motor and DC drive. I hope you can get the bearings out of the gearbox housing. Dave.
i've rebuilt plenty of old woodworking equipment, my entire shop is full of old "arn". my 1915 crescent bandsaw is the oldest, the rest are 1930's to 1950's. the motors are all old too. heat will move a lot of stuff! you dont need a lot, a simple propane torch is plenty hot enough. heat will expand metal, so in the case of that bearing on the shaft, heat the bearing up. for the gear box bearing, heat the box, i have used a bbq in a similar situation. you can also use a dremel type tool to cut the bearing with an appropiate cutting wheel. yeah, 3 jaw pullers suck! a replacement motor may be tricky for the direct drive. induction motor are generally available in 1725 or 3450 rpm. you will want a 1725 rpm, judging by the gears. most motors, but not all, can be wired to run in either direction. there are standard "frame sizes" for motors which sets standards for mounting holes and shaft height from the mounting flange. i would be looking for a "period correct" motor, 1- 2 hp, single phase unless you have 3 phase power(unlikely) there are two websites you should look at, vintage machinery and owwm. vintage is a vast database of information, owwm is a well respected online forum dedicated to old wood and metal working machinery
Andy there is a YT channel & the proprietor name is “Mike Farmington” and he does very close to what you do (making very tech and beautiful pieces of furniture). He is in Colorado and within a 2 yr mark he restored fully a band saw similar to yours? From head to toe! I am certain if you reached out he would gladly offer anything he could? Warning? Might be a tad liberal? From So Cal and in the pot state from the pot state ? Never the less he is super smart! Smoke’em if you got ‘em !!
When i am removing pulleys i like to make sure the shaft is cleaned off well before trying to move the pulley down the shaft. Heat on the pulley and lots of lube also helps quite a lot. As for the Bearing. If they aren't damaged i would say just repack them and don't worry about it. If you need them off you should get #1 a blind hole bearing puller and a #2 a clamp on style bearing puller, much more user friendly than the 3 jaw you have. For the motor I assume you are going for a stand of some kind if so you can put a motor below and belt going up it would probably work well. If you want to go direct drive you may just need to make or buy a coupler. if you go the coupler route you cant adjust the motor speed with pulley sizes so maybe a 3 phase motor and VFD to get proper speed control. For me a belt / pulley drive just seems like less hassle. also double check the paint for lead!
Ok, the strange gear is phenolic it’s a fiber impregnated with an epoxy resin, the material is fully machinable material ( smells horrible when cutting) makes a silent drive. The bearings can be pulled with a split bearing puller ( two semi-circular wedges that bolt together and use a two legged puller or a press ) ( see harbor freight). Bearings can all be cross referenced at a reputable bearing dealer … hope that helps. As far as the motor goes, you can go back to a coupler, but I would suggest a pulley and a 3 phase motor with a VFD so you can adjust speed…
Dude you should have placed the machine on its side so the shaft is vertical, then try pulling. Adding heat to the pulley could have helped. Not sure if you did, was too lazy to look back. Use a chisel to remove the bearing in the housing. The plastic/rubber on a screwdriver softens the blow which makes it a little less effective. I usually cut bearings off a shaft because I don’t have any other way. Cut the outer ring then the inner.
Maybe it's ment to be a metal-cutting saw ? The reduction gearbox might reduce the surface speed enough that it's ment more for metal cutting than wood (not knowing the reduction ratio). If the saw model normally came with a direct drive, then maybe it was an optional extra for lower cutting speed (?)
To answer the motor question - get any motor you like, mount it on a riser block to get it aligned to the shaft and then use an elastic shaft coupling to connect them together. Easy. Also, the shaft on the saw might need to be shortened.
sympathies for bearing and pulley removal..even with our perhaps 20+ pullers one still has to be creative, You need a knife edge bearing puller for the one seated against a surface. When you use the cast daddy long leg pullers move pivot elbow bolts to minimize leg length to make less wieldy. I keep elastic, or rubber bands handy and then use them to legs in
For the shaft bearing- get rid of the outer race and the balls, then flip it upside down so the inner race "hangs" then heat it and it will drop by itself, you can try cutting it but it's a risk of damaging the shaft. About the "case" bearing- flip it upside down again so it can fall out the case then heat up the case around the bearing and it will drop out. Hope i helped
You should be able to find a motor for that direct drive pretty easy, I think "US motor" will accommodate a very broad range of needs, you could focus on the shaft size and power range then shim the motor to fit the base. Or find a used motor online and have the shaft machined at a shop to fit the gears.
The one bearing on that shaft they make a Bearing puller that slides in between the housing and bearing. Then it has threaded rod you tighten up then press it off with a Hyd Press. If you dont have that tool maybe a local machine shop near you could get them out for you. Then you could install them by putting the bearing in the freezer for a few hours and it will drop back on shaft in that housing .Great old bandsaw..
I believe the non metal Gear is made from micarta. Micarta is an epoxy canvas composite. As for the in line shaft motor situation try looking up lovejoys.
Weld something on the bearings so you can pull them out. Or.... for the one on a shaft, you can brake it the same way as you did with the puley, cut a notch on oposite sides then put a sort of wedge in a notch then hit it with a hammer...it breaks like a glass.... And for the one in a housing, try to weld something in the inner race so you can press or hammer it out... use antispatter...
you can us the cut and chisel method to remove the bearing stuck on the shaft. if you choose that method wrap all exposed metal with masking tape so you don't hit anything you don't want ground down. I used a Dremel tool with flex shaft because better control but it takes way more time and eats a lot of the little wheels. cut opposite sides of the outer case most of the way through the place the bearing on a hard surface like a anvil use a cold chisel and a large hammer. the cuts and pressure on opposite sides will cause it to crack in half. or just go to auto machine shop with the new bearing have them press the old bearing off and the new one on. takes about ten minutes cost very little and you don't have to worry about scaring anything with a grinder. I have done it both ways depending on how much time and money I had at the time. oh and the phenolic gear is used because straight cut gears make more noise than angled cut gears so if you use a fiber gear you get less noise for less money than using spiral cut gears.
The gear is called Phenolic I think I know you can still buy the material. as far as the bearing use a press if you don't have one ask a friend or take it to most mechanic shops that have one.
You need bearing seperator for bearings on shaft. also need to use brass or aluminum rods to knock bearing out so you do not mare the race. on how to get bearing out of casting. just like you were doing. unless you want to try and use a press to push them out, don't break the casting useing press
You'll need a bearing splitter for the bearing on the shaft. The other one maybe a slide hammer with the expanding bearing/bushing puller maybe. You could maybe use the expanding puller with some plates and threaded rod to get it out without all the noise
The gear looks like phenolic, a pretty strong material. If you're going to directly attach the motor shaft to another shaft, use a "spider" coupling rather than a hard coupler.
I suggest getting a normal motor with the same diameter shaft as what the driveshaft is and use a LoveJoy coupler to join or couple them together. It is a coupler that is made for this application, has some rubber in it to absorb some minor misalignment. You may need to make an adapter to fit the new motor as the height and spacing may be different to the mount that is on the saw. As for the phenolic gear, they are typically used to make the gear train quieter. Straight cut spur gears like that are pretty noisy. Also the work light is a Delta light and has some value to Delta machine tool fans. They are pretty when polished up.
That looks like a phenolic resin gear. Those are typically a fiber reinforced resin, and very durable. As long as phenolic gears aren't overheated, they pretty much run forever. As long as the phenolic gear properly chosen for the task, it will perform as well as steel while being much quieter in most cases. Quality phenolic gears are not a cheap/low-cost option. In the correct application, they are quieter and long wearing with less play and easy maintenance.
Bakelite or phenolic were used in early times. Today, Delrin or some such does the job. The problem with Phenolic is it tends to just "explode" into little pieces without warning but it is hard and very durable. Be sure to keep it well oiled in your case. Most machinist I've seen tend to try heating and cooling to loosen those bearings from their seats. They will also try using a press like the Dake arbor press to seat or unseat the bearings if they can rig a way to do it. Of course there is soaking it for a long time with things like Evaporust. You might try Justin at Good of the Land(RU-vid) and of course Adam Booth and the Keith(s) - Rucker and Fenner.
First bearing i‘d cut with an angle grinder. First the outer ring an the inner you can cut just a little bit then you can tap it with a hammer and big screwdriver so it breaks.
The gear is probebly „Tufnol“ (at least that is what itˋs called in germany). Itˋs softer than steal…i gues itˋs there as a braking-point if the saw stalls.
That gear is Phenolic a composite material I’ve seen it in manufacturing I would guess it’s a sacrificial piece so other stuff doesn’t break but I’m not an expert just a guess
Andy, Phenolic Gears exhibit superior shear force, help reduce machinery noise, and absorb destructive vibration unlike metal gears, phenolic is non-conductive, protects the mating metal gear train, and are known to outlast metal gears under severe continuous service. Play safe from Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada.
@@AndyRawls, I have retired after 44 years as an Industrial maintenance mechanic / Millwright for a mining tools manufacturer. Every day was a learning experience; you had to adapt quickly, or you were left behind.
love these tool restorations! very cool. i love old tools. i did something similar to a late 80s i think JET bandsaw. took some time. lots of reading but was able to get good parts and get it working. cant wait to see this one working dude!
Every time I see a refurb'ed piece of old iron equipment, I find myself thinking I'd love to have one/some. I've got the tools and knowledge. But this video reminded me that I want to work wood, not spin wrenches. Same reason I've never bought that 63-67 Vette I've lusted after for 50+ years. So thank you Andy, thank you for reminding me to "step away...".
thank you Andy . i was a machinist on a sub tender back in 72-76. replace all bolts and washers . steel becomes brittle with age . cast iron will not take cold exstreme do not freeze the cast iron but it will take heat , heat expands . good luck
Dunno if it could help you out, but maybe take it to a bike shop and ask if you can use their Crown Race puller to get those bearings off the shaft? Crown races are pressed onto hollow tubes, so the puller is designed to pull them off that exact thing. Caveat: I don't think they'd be big enough to fit around that bearing. Maybe look them up and you could fabricate something similar to them? they're pretty simple devices that you could make with a couple of blade shaped wedges at the bottom with a pipe and a large nut welded to one end and a large bolt to go along with it.
I've changes my bandsaw over to a variable speed DC motor. Very nice to be able to change the speed for different materials. I repurposed a 3.5 horse treadmill motor which worked good for my smaller saw but might not be enough for yours. Still it's easy enough to build a controller with parts off of ebay or Amazon.
use a bearing separator to get the bearing off the gear box the one weakness of a lot of bandsaws is the table trunnion don't plop a big heavy timber on the table that can break the trunnion. I love Oliver equipment.
I had a similar bearing in a hole issue when I restored my walker turner drill press. A 'car guy' neighbor had an internal (ie arms go inside the bearing hole) vs external (like u used) bearing puller and that pulled it right out for me. So you might be able to find one of those to do it.
Oh I forgot the important bit, how he pulled the pulley out, he used one of those slide hammers attached to an internal bearing remover. ie pull fast and when it hits the end of the stick, it pulled the bearing right out.
Heat the bearing to a dull red and cool the bearing with water; it should weaken or break the press seal and pop out with minimal beating. The reason I said to heat it to a dull red is to avoid weakening the bearing housing casting. Hope this helps you out Andy.
My favorite tools in my shop are restored Delta from the WWII era and within 10 years post the war. Delta is cool because parts are so easy to come by. OWWMs rule 👍😀
Bull gear looks to be made from Bakelite, a phenolic resin. You can try heating the cast iron slightly so that you can tap the bearing out easier, probably no more than 200 F should suffice. Do it quick so that cast heats up before the bearing heats up. Same goes when you install the new bearing, when talking only a few ten thousandths of an inch interference, delta T makes a big difference. Cool project , good luck.
you're so lucky, I've been looking for a 192, forever, they're amazing, I am probably going to buy a 217 soon, if I have room at the new shop. to go along with my fay and Egan 36
The gear is fiber reinforced plastic, also known as phenolic, also commonly used as timing gears in automotive engines. As for that bearing there is a tool that has two blade like plates that fit behind the bearing and allows you to pull it off that shaft.
