D, nice job and result. Very good editing and flow of dialogue, organized, the lighting is complimentary, and your commentary works well as you progress through the different steps. Some shades of my memory metal shop and wood shop classes in high school. A solid YT instructional. Well done sir!!
Hi Dave, I bought one of your Bronze Lever caps for my scrub plane , i must say the quality is outstanding, best wishes from the vintage carpenter from England to you and your family, keep up the amazing work.
Another amazing video, Dave! ❤ Watching your content is always worth it. Learn so much. Combined with you actually making your own parts. This could almost be considered........ 😮😊😂
I bet there are a lot of Veritas scrub plane owner that would love a solid cap like yours. I made a new one out of 5mm stainless with a small bend. The problem with "you don't have to tighten it much" is that as soon as you hit a knot the blade moves back. Add some wax or other rust protection and it is no mystery why the Veritas bend or the Stanley crack. You would not be surprised over how many people who think that the surface is from some kind of carving or axe on their old house. Also the problem with a converted #4 is the width to the small center of the blade that cuts. It makes it hard to knock off protruding corners on bulging surfaces. And of courser the scrub is lighter simpler and easier to change blade after hitting a nail. I really enjoy your videos and work by the by.
I purposefully put small set screws on these so they can be over tightened. Especially on the type one bodies that don’t have a “T” shaped post to support the iron. But you are right about hitting a knot, been there done that and it certainly moves the iron. I’d say a lot of caps were cracked this way. Great comment and thanks for watching.
Kinda nice. I’ve had to refurbish a number of fives and sevens. As well as threes, fours and an eight. One thing everybody misses and is important is that cast iron is porous. It soaks up fluids like a sponge and keeps them. Using a propane torch, low flame, heat up cast iron till you see those fluids bleed out. If it sparks it’s brake fluid. Wipe with paper towel repeat as nessary across all of plane. I use candle wax to seal them after. Heat up cast iron and melt wax on for full width finish while warm it soaks in just enough. First one or two passes once it’s cool will remove the wax but keeps the sole rust free and slippery for a long time. Works great before you paint to do that as paint doesn’t stick to water or oil very well.
@@DaveCorinth try it on a fresh plane after bleeding junk out of cast iron. Lasts a really long time. My “newest” five scrub plane I haven’t (melted)waxed, just bled. Have to (cold)wax it a few times a week. My regular five I haven’t waxed in about five years of use and still runs smooth. Note blade up a plane should flow across with no resistance. Otherwise your just waiting your energy and time planing.
They are definitely not. Often I find them made of Chestnut with a veneer of oak or mahogany ect….. but I keep the screws and other parts as well. Even the old poplar is good for projects that you might want to paint. I look for the upright grands!
I spotted your lever caps on eBay. Is delivery to Uk doable for you? I came across a Stanley 40 1/2 for super cheap a few months ago which is missing the cap. Then this video pops up. Like destiny. The planes are so rare in UK so spares are impossible
Hey Dave, I have a question for you. I recently purchased a Bedrock 606 with plans to make it my user. However, there are little chips out of the frog near the opening of the mouth. We're talking about a little less than 1mm into the frog. Can I file it back 1mm and then thin the front of the frog by lapping it to get it back to its original thickness near the opening of the mouth? I hope that makes sense, haha. Thanks!
@@chris-C8 honestly, I wouldn’t mess with it. I’ve had a few bedrocks in my day that have the tip of the frog chipped, and it will not effect the use at all. I don’t recommend trying to lap it down to remove the chips, if it’s a flat side bedrock that could mess with the geometry of the pins applying pressure.
