Revving our Honda K24 to 10,000rpm, it Sounds INSANE 

No, just 4 cylinders in general.

@@ieatass6463 well.... You should check a certain Toyota Starlet that delivers power beyond 10k

@@ieatass6463 *suzuki gsxr 1000 has entered the chat*

@@lynnmckenney1987 yamaha R6 has entered the chat

@@kelceyk8199 _Honda CBR250RR has entered the chat_

So rippin my k24 at 7k alot is fine i guess lol

@@tylerwill5250 Lol I guess, I hardly hit 6k

Yes

@@tylerwill5250 if its a A2 yes the A4 doesn't have the best oiling system

@@tylerwill5250 what! Bro I wouldn't set the crossover point until almost 7k rpms lmfao

Wtf 😬

Imagine the motor off a CBR250RR MC22 CRUISING at 14k rpm, redline 21k rpm

2006 Honda v8 f1 cars redlined at 20.5k

what cc?

@@austinsawyer8853 2400 I believe

Standard ups practice

Lololol!!! Nice!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

If Hert can't break it, no one can...

@@Watermelon-sm9xo The best quality tester.

Hert certified

@@ilham7345 Hertified

@@Watermelon-sm9xo #HertProof 😎

I’d still take a EJ or a 4G/4B over it. Or even a an A853 haha. Jk on that last one. .. parts availability is trash.

I still think a 22re is the best lol. Not for power.. but the best.

@@jeremyusry6705Get tf out of here lmao

It's an amazing motor for sure. We all have our preferences though. 4AGE gang

It still sounds like loads of angry bumblebees trapped inside a tin.

thank you

Nice... Ta mate, just saved me 8 & a half minutes.

@@julianobrien2593 of course! My pleasure

Legend

Thank you

The 3gen integra Type R B18 engine engines and S2000's F20C should be on that list as well bro, though yes I understand you mentioned best value as one point and yeah a B18 ITR motor or s2000 motor are considerably more expensive , especially now In modern times considering how few are left available for importers to sell to the public , which is like next to 0 , if you find one nowadays your gonna pay $7k-9k for a full swap , shit all the importers down in Jersey not too far from me are asking like $3800 nowadays for a standard 88-91 obd0 first gen b16a1 swap, 10-12 years ago right about when I sold my CRx b16 swaps could be had all day long for $1200-1800 , and I'm talking FULL swap , shit they used to practically give high compression B20's away for free , with most places sellinh them for $380-430 tops for a complete low mileage jdm long block , thats a great value along with thw usually what were back in the day practically just as cheap as the B20 , being similar in value were the obd1 non-vtec b18's, slap high comp pistons and a b16 head and trans on either them two blocks and even without dyno tunes people were easily hitting 215-230whp with only basic bolt ons , that was like 15-20 years ago though , those golden days are done and gone and I'm just greatful I got to be an active part of those days , where it all began essentially.

I'd agree to that but only referring to SOME of those k24's, as there's a lot of detuned and in my opinion junk version low output models that have the exhaust manifold literally cast into the cyl head , making a "header" literally just a simply 2.5" pipe with a rectangle shaped flange welded to the end of it, them things all came with shitty pistons and cams and plastic intake manifolds with considerably smaller throttle bodies , I know for a fact the 2008-2012 accords used this bastard version of the K24 becuase my mom has owned one for 8+ years now , super super reliable even with 212k miles but they aint worth putting money into imo because of the garbage exhaudt manifolds casted into the cyl heads , so essentially all thats worth any good is the block but you get low compression pistons , so even with a normal true cyl head on one , yeah it may be cheap but until you throw some real pistons in them blocks and a real cyl head your not really gonna get much outta them even tuned with bolt ons , their deeply limited in their design , starting with the cylinder head issue then the low compression pistons. Plus VTec doesn't sound much better than a D series single cam , with the cross over point at like 5100rpms stock on one of those junky versions of the K24 I've been talking about. I'm assuming that most people who start with K24's and build them are using the jdm k24A's the high compression versions with the RBB cyl head, for $1000 for a complwte motor with low miles then the argument of the k24 possibly being the best bang for your buck can stand strong , don't sleep on any of the k20a2's, Z1's or Z3's though cause you can snatch a complete swap nowadays for $3000-3500 tops , and sometimws significantly cheaper if your lucky and all three of those K20's are very very respectable in stock form , and are true dohc vtec motors in my opinion cause if it redlines at 7k it's not a true vtec motor in my opinion , but anyway those smaller k20's respond very very well making significant power gains from your standard bolt on mods. My bros got an 8th gen SI sedan with about every external mod you can do to them running a Kpro base map for now and honestly the thing freaken rips pretty damn hard for a full bodied car with any interior mods like cams, pistons or rods. Hes walked and in sone cases outright spanked numerous cars so far in 3 years that almost all were equal weight but making considerably more power, he also knows how to drive which is a huge thing that can allow a underpowered car to beat a much higher powered car because being a truly good talented driver is too often over looked and seldom talked about. For example real quick I used to have a Crx with a b18 mated to a b16 cable trans that was about deal equal weight to my buddies ek cx B powered hatch that we drag raced each other literally hundreds of times over about a decade and no joke never once did he beat me with his car, and to prove how big a deal the right driver is on 3 or 4 different occasions me and by buddy switched cars for a few races , so I driving his hatch raced him driving my Crx and dead serious every single one of those races I beat him by a fair amount in a few instances despite him never once able to win even a singke race against my Crx with me driving it, so question is was my Crx truly faster or was it simply (not tryig to sound arrogant) coming down to me simply being a better driver than him ? I think I already answered that question with my testimony of still beating him even when switched cars.

That sounds pretty bias and Honda fan boy hype

@@Bishieboi Honda makes good engines... no hype in there.

LS my dude.

You are thanked

🙌🙏

Bars 👌

Gonna need a new tach 😂 e30 tach ends at what? 8k rpms?

yoo your e30 needs a M10 with a big turbo

too bad that a e30 dtm engine eats this "super conservative" thing for breakfast, for lunch and for dinner. All day long while reving above 10k. Just look at the screen duringh the last dyno run ;-) That did look like garbage and maybe it was not very far away from eating itself. That's why there was no graph/"final" HP number shown. This and Suppy's fake and hurting smile at 9:12 says enough. I instantly saw both without even intentionally looking for it. Believe it or not, I came here for 10k rpm and not to badmouth it because i love all high reving engines (doesn't matter which brand). But this is how it turned out thx to mr. overrated and his big mouth.

@@ichigozanghetsu if you get the chip from the cluster that came with the m10 and some cheap mods it works

@@dalaisdramalama4470 Would it though? I don’t know man, it’s not a very good comparison anyway. What’s the time between rebuilds or at least an inspection with a full spec ‘dtm’ S14 and how much does one cost initially compared to this K24? There’s a massive, massive difference. Sure S14’s and S42B20’s are real cool but they’re well beyond the realm of the average guy, a K series at this level is not.

There's your Biden bonus right there.

Thx to those unmasked unvaxed trees spreading rona to each other 🤣

Yes!

Scotto and Suppy vs Heart and Danger Dan build battle would be a good match up

I say identical cars with separate budgets. One for the car and another for the motor.

this is a must

N/A

Sure you did

You sure that pushrod didn’t launch itself so far into the air it made it all the way around earth, and back into your engine? 😂

Well, stretching the connecting rods are one way to get a high compression engine.

No way the motor was producing any power past 7-8k bullshit

@@kyokuslaps2411 Oh yeah totally agree there is no reason to even go to 7k, but I didn't know shit back then. the guy i traded it to put the heads on that i bought for it and i saw the bent pushrod. But you would have never known it before he tore it apart.

Lol well everything’s garbage till you build it the right way. Rotary vs piston has been a battle for years and still is so the fights been on since the 90’s lol

Would be a dope battle tho, a high reving 13B vs a high revving K20.

Gears & Gasoline reference. If you didn't watch the tail of 2 RX7fds; the rotary owner dissed the k24 turbo swap on the trip.

@Alpha Werks not short life! Only for those who don’t know how to maintain one I wouldn’t expect you to understand Seen Rotary’s run for over 10 years. Even piston engines will blow if they’re not up to maintenance

@@connoisseuroftigolbitts Facts. Goopy performance is proof of a well-maintained rotary can just keep going.

For sure. He really understands geometry and efficiency. You know that dude has helped build some monster engines.

Nah. Not period correct.

Nah on top of it not being period correct, k24s are starting to kinda be overused

@@skyhigh5747 ahhh good point

there are b series beating k series nowadays also

@@alexismendoza1545 that’s because in the Honda game K series are the best platform for your buck! you can farm a k24 cheap at a junkyard All you need left is supporting mods and trans

all of that to barely beat a stock mid 90s mustang

@@spencervalek2173 One of the ways to accomplish outcome without quality is quantity. Something ford of the 90's is known for Trash talk more about ur 90's mustang 5.0L pushrod technology designed from blueprints of the first engine. When the uneducated come in just to speak to dangle balls Spencer Valek

@@spencervalek2173 Let people enjoy what they like No point of putting bait out

At that point, would variable length intake runners be just as advantageous in not having to regrind cams? Something akin to Yamaha's 3.0/3.2 DOHC V6 in the SHO Taurus, not exactly, but something like it.

@@spencervalek2173 might want to check your numbers again, that would smoke a 94/95 Mustang GT, and a 96 or 97 with the 4.6 as well. Now, drop that same setup into a Del Sol or like a 95 hatch and absolutely destroy most mid 90's sports cars. Even better, slap a built K20/K24 into one of those cars I mentioned and let it eat. It'll keep up with some C6 Vette models at that point, add a turbo and some other goodies and fucking destroy everything.

300 na is badass let's be real. Considering the fully built nature of this engine the lucky fellow could daily drive 28lb of boost.

@@charliechristian1097 on this build that would easily make 900+ hp

@@nickhenley1338 realistically the k series can handle that when its fully built. Stock bottom end can reliably handle up to about 400... notwithstanding the forged pistons and rods in here the ported head and valve springs..... exhaust is gonna be the consideration. Don't choke that puppy out.

Who was the company that built a 500hp (crank hp) K24 on custom ITB's?

@@johnmitchell2269 4 piston racing

Love my 4th gen

I miss my 93 prelude also best handing car I ever owned, even better than my 07 civic si

If only they made k series in an fr layout …

who doesnt appreciate hondas

What are you putting it into, tho?

Huge congrats! And it's fine motor you won that you will have a lot of fun with!

In all sad honesty, itll probably go in a "automotive parts for sale" category. I've got too much going on to get into a project for the engine.

Just fucking sad

Just put it in my 2010 Honda Accord thanks

BAAAAAAAAAAAH

BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

@@tatookiller9500 BAAAAAAAAH

BAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH

BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

Jamaica squad

Looks like the red hoses coming in from the boom over the engine and out at floor level are the coolant supply, normally you’d have a large radiator outside with big fans which would take care of your highest possible power test engine. And a cooling tower or similar for cooling of the brake for the dyno

By ‘79 that was peak oil crisis and that v8 had its nuts clipped.

I mean, the K20 is 20 years old now 😂 but I get it, the support and parts produced now and how they're made and how accessible they are now due to the technology improvements 😝

Right? Kinda sad that the chevy 350 i built makes equivalent power, but I only spent around $800 using junkyard and used parts 🤷‍♂️

@@notamexican91 and that 350 will make that power for the next 20 years without a single hiccup. I do love some K series though.

@@-tr0n I mean are you saying the k series won't though?

@@dkis8730 not at 350hp!

Time, money, research and development…these things do wonders and are why aftermarket communities for cars exist…as a matter of fact someone is working on a turbo kit for the 2018-2022 Corolla and another person is making a V8 by combining two K motors

I believe when done correctly, these things are pretty durable. And then there is the American way.

@@poowaffle what is the american way supposed to be?

It'd be perfect for an S2 Exige (or even Elise) imo

This motor is not stock though. With stronger rods & pistons in this motor, it's not the same scenario as a stock engine. The K24 @ 7500rpm is equivalent to the K20 @ 8600rpm (the stock fuel cutout set by Honda on the JDM Type R), since the K24 is a much longer stroke. So if you had the stock conrods then to be safe you could stick to those values that Honda set, but plenty of people go with a 8000rpm rev limit for stock K24 bottom-ends (and a 9000rpm rev limit for stock K20 bottom-ends) which is a little riskier than the OEM limits but probably ok. Taking a stock K24 bottom-end to 9000rpm regularly (e.g., a race car) however is probably not advisable, as that is equivalent to a K20 bottom-end at 10,200rpm.