I want to thank you for your video it really saved me from going crazy. I had mice attack my lawnmower and left me with many broken wires. After days of tracing all the wires and repairing them I never in a million years would think that the light wire would be the one. Thanks again for making my day turn out ok…..
Bud! You nailed it!!! My Husqvarna 2654 same issue, it nearly drove me crazy!!! My solenoid ground had corrosion under the bolt!!! Cleaned it off mower fired right up 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Picked up an old 2452 Husqvarna with no switch function but you could hear the fuel shutoff click & it would kill the mower, turns out it was the two black wires you show running to/along with the lights had been cut. Got several problems sorted on it but this def helped immensely also, Thanks Sir!!!
Awesome… my Husqvarna GTH2654 has the exact same problem with a ground and has sidelined me for 3 weeks so far… thanks for posting and getting directly to the problem. Some videos take 8 minutes trying to explain how to open the hood !! Thank you
Sir I want to say many thanks. I have been solenoid jumping my mower for years and finally stopped trying to figure it out. I actually had the exact problem with my headlight wiring. I just cut the unplugged wires(one terminal was bad) and spliced them and away it went. Best of luck and thanks again. Bob
Thank you for this video . I got to the part checking the grounds . Went down to the main ground wires and sure enough found a broken wire close by . Put new wire connections on it and she fired right up ! Thanks again ......
had same problem. done put in new switch. check solenoid safety switches. never thought headlight ground wire could cause not to start. knew wire was broken just hadn't fixed it yet. wow
Thank you. I traced wires and switches for a good day. After watching this i checked the headlight harness and it was the same problem. Fixed and started right up. Thank you very much.
You helped me major same tractor same problem. I knew i had a ground problem and saw the damaged headlight wires but i never thought that would have nothing to do with it. Thanks
Thanks for your ideas and help. My John Deere D170 would not crank. The problem was eventually traced to disconnected headlights. After I reconnected the headlights all voltages, per the video, returned to normal and the mower works like new. The D170 has a 4 pole solenoid. Likewise, beware of the front headlight power lines running adjacent to the exhaust muffler system like the mower in the video. Michael in Texas.
God bless you. I had no power to the white wire looked at the switch the plug was not sedated had some dirt in the plug . I blew off the pins on the switch and the pin holes in the plug after that it fired right up. At first I was unsure what side of the battery to put the test light on. You have saved my day sir.
I watched a couple videos grabbed my multi meter went to go diagnose looked for the very issue you had and i had the same problem also same mower, i would not have thought about checking that first... maybe id still be trying to figure it out. thank you for this video it made my day much better!!!!
Great video I bought one of these used just yesterday was parked and I haven't had time to walk it through watching your videoI'm sure you probably solved a bit within the first 5 minutes
That was exactly what it was. As soon as I connected the broken wires together the test light came on., I was checking ground to solenoid. Before getting this far I jumped the solenoid it started and ran fine, cut it off and it would not die. Which the anti backfire valve should have killed it even if the kill wires to the coils were off, yet it chugged on until bro got off the seat that killed it. I could hear ABV click when I turned the key. Thanks, fixed it very quickly.
Okay, have to say thank you on this 90+ day for saving me. Mower wouldn't start after I stopped to pick up branches. It was the exact same wires except connection box was damaged. I figured it was electric in nature but now I do not feel so threatened by mower.
Holy cow. You are a life saver. Funny thing is, I was going to mow - remembered that my headlights were flickering the last time I mowed. I investigated, saw my wires had melted (same area as yours) so I cut and re-soldered. But I couldn't determine where that third wire had been connected prior, so I ignored it. I mean, I could only see two wires going to the headlights. Then the thing wouldn't start. I guess I wouldn't let myself believe the cause could be the headlight wiring. I mean, why would they ground it up there instead of nearer the solenoid. Ugh. Anyway, thanks!
Wow I've watched a lot of videos looking for a solution to my Murray not starting and it's the exact problem like yours I'm going to test that in the morning thanks.
Great 👍 Video, who knew the headlights could cause the problem and my headlights are not connected which may be my problem l, I hope so that is my next action! Thanks 🙏 & Great 👍 Info!
I just finished up rebuilding a basket case on a Husqvarna yth20f41t with a Kohler Courage engine on it. Those Kohler Courage engines are famous for cracking the block due to loose bolts in the top cover being hit by the flywheel teeth. Kohler forgot to pur locktite on the bolts and they vibrated loose and the flywheel teeth can hit them which can fracture the case. I have a friend that is an excellent welder. He fixed the case and I put a new head gasket and top cover gasket on it. It would start and run good but the headlights didn't work and the PTO switch would not turn on the mower blades. As it turns out the ignition switch was defective. Once that was replaced everything including the PTO switch worked fine and I mowed my 1 acre yard this afternoon and it worked perfect.
Thanks for this video! After troubleshooting the battery and the solenoid, still nothing happening. Turns out I had this exact save problem. The wires going to the headlights had touched the exhaust manifold melting/shorting them, which blew the 20 amp fuse in the housing, near the engine. (Husqvarna TS-354XD with Kohler 7000 engine). I replaced the burnt wires then rerouted them away from the exhaust manifold. Problem solved. Thanks again.
I watched up to where you said it wasent grounding and then I found after looking that when I grounded the head light with the test light it turned over and I was like that’s weird then I turned the head light switch on and it turned over with out grounding then watched the video and ended up being the same issue great video
I don't have this model mower, but your trouble shooting techniques were very helpful. I cleaned up every ground bond point on my mower. I don't know which one did the trick but it started right up.
@@frankdavidson9675 It's the safety circuit, it uses a ground loop to confirm all safety switches are working. It's not used for the engine ground. The head light ground wire just happens to be in that loop.
@@frankdavidson9675 Because the safety circuit wasn't a complete circuit. Just like if you tried to start it with the blades engaged, or without the brake on. The headlight ground wire is in the same circuit in that model.
Yes B'Y..Newfie like accent. Thanks again, it was killing me after an engine swap...im a novice. main ground was culprit. Thanks again Tepco. also, your narrative skills are excellent. more small engine stuff..?
Lots of great info in the video... thank you. While I wasn't able to sort out my issue, it did allow me to determine what the issue isn't. But I'm still stuck. I have a Husqvarna YTH1542XP (the V-Twin Kawasaki), and while mowing it just quit. Tried re-starting and nothing... not even a click of the solenoid. The oil was low so I topped it up, thinking there may be a low oil shut-off that might automatically re-set. I checked the battery (which is less than a year old) and have full voltage. There is no corrosion and the terminal connections are tight. I by-passed the safety switch on the seat to eliminate that from the equation. I looked for the elusive 20 amp fuse by following the small red power lead from the + side of the solenoid and could not find it, rather there seems to simply be a male/female connector where this fuse should be. It is not corroded and makes a solid connection when plugged together. I looked around and could not find any chaffed wires, and I'm pretty confident that this isn't the issue as all the wiring is running through wire loom so it's protected. As I mentioned, there isn't even a click from the solenoid when I turn the key so is it safe to assume that the solenoid is the issue? It just seems odd since the mower quit while in operation... although the low oil could have triggered the shut-down and the solenoid is preventing the mower from starting. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Arne Larsen okay let me give it a stab, if it doesn't click at the solenoid no power is getting to it if no power is getting to it that means there's a cut off somewhere preventing it, either a safety switch or a wire. This could also be caused by a faulty ignition switch. I doubt it's the solenoid as the solenoid would still click even if it was bad, just wouldn't send power to the starter. So because it died in motion, safety switch, ignition switch, or cut wire. Good luck, thanks for watching!
Thank you for responding so quickly! Re-reading what I wrote earlier, I realize that I forgot to mention that I had confirmed power to the solenoid... only it was (and is) stone dead when I turn the ignition. Not even a click. I managed to get the engine running by putting the ignition in the "on" position and jumping the solenoid, but now I have two new issues (that were not there when I started mowing this morning), that being that the blades will not engage when I pull out the blade knob. It's a switch-activated system so I suspect that I may have tugged on a one of the leads which run to the "blade engager" (clutch?) when checking the wires for damage. The potentially bigger issue is that I am now leaking oil from the bottom of the motor, which is really disappointing. ALL of the oil hasn't leaked out, and the engine runs fine and strong (when I jump the solenoid) so I can't see it being a cracked block or head... but who knows.
I've noticed the wires to the headlights on my Husqvarna mower don't have much slack in them. So I will keep an eye out for any future problems. Thanks
I like your approach. I will be checking back for other videos, however, the shadows made this one of no value to me. A carport with strong electrical lighting will help overcome the darkening effect cameras apply to video. I do not doubt it was fine in person. A camera just needs the even distribution of a little more light. I have just purchased my first riding mower, used. I will be coming back to consult your videos again. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
Great video to get my troubleshooting started on similar issue. Battery is good and hot to battery post on solenoid. I get nothing to other post on solenoid or white or black wires when turning key. I suspect a short on either key switch/plug or blade engagement switch/plug.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I swapped out the switch from a working mower and same problem. I suspect the switch plug connections or perhaps the blade engagement switch/plug connections, as it is in the same path.
Doug Farrell did your hour meter go out also having the same problem I was mowing then it died noticed this wire has broken again but didn't think nothing about
Interesting stuff. My mower starts without issue on a cold engine, but after it's hot will not restart. The ignition will be totally dead. No click , buzz, or noise of any kind. I don't use the headlights so I have disconnected the harness, and now I wonder if that's my problem. Thanks for the video.
Quick question I tried the run a ground wire from neg side on battery to ground on solenoid and it still won't turn over ?? I did get my multimeter to beep with the ground from solenoid to battery ??
Husqvarna starters are notorious for seizing the Bendix. Remove the starter and use penetrating oil on the Bendix shaft , bench test the motor and reinstall. Re-lube again thoroughly .
So I get no power at all when I turn the key swapped out the solenoid starter Infiniti on switch still nothing. I’m stuck. Where do u connect that light tester to?
I just tried to start mower for first time this year. had no power to hour meter, headlights, and it would not crank. I saw the wires to headlight were wore into and scared it would short I unplugged it close to headlight.....I'm on my way to fix my wires....Thanks for the video.
Very informative video on finding a short in the ground. Learned a lot. My problem is when I check this, I have no power on the hot side to the solenoid. I can run a wire from the battery to the solenoid and the engine will crank but not start. What could cause no power from key to this wire and how do I troubleshoot it? Thanks
It should have a solid wire from the battery to the starter solenoid. First thing I would do is check continuity through that wire. If you have power on the battery side but not on the starter side, I would focus on the starter switch. I go over the switch in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PbRzbqkZ_ZE.html
That's a safety switch problem, most likely a faulty seat safety switch. You can unplug the seat switch and connect the two wires with a jumper to see if it works.
Hello! I have the same Mower with the same problem! And in the same place in the headlight ground circuit. I think the manufacturer routes the wiring to close to the exhaust pipe or the axle pivot point
Tepco Cycle Repair I have some mower and same problem- however after soldering wires- still no ground- I wired another ground to engine block and it works great now. Out of curiosity, where is the ground under the dash that it originally used- THANK YOU! For the video- It helped tremendously!!!!
I'm curious. How many labor hours are typical for this diagnosis and repair? I have a similar problem on my Cub Cadet 1330. My Cub dealer charges $100 an hour for labor and I'm wondering if the cost for a similar diagnosis and repair will be more than the mower itself.
Usually an hour labor for diagnosis then parts and repair hours depending on the problem. Must shops will absorb the diagnostic if the repair is done there.
Thanks, I wasn't seeing anything flowing through the Solenoid, but the power is getting to the lights and everything else. No light on either terminal for the ignition switch side of the Solenoid, nor anything coming back out of the negative side to the battery when trying to crank. Apparently I have a bad Solenoid?
No, because it's not in the circuit if the blades are not engaged and it's in neutral. You just need to have everything in the start position, (neutral, blades not engaged, brake on) and be sure all safety switches are fully operational.
I know this is old i a husqvarna rz621 not running but I have made new code "smartswitch" the (P) light just blinks. Parking break. I replaced the switch. Its driving me insane the only wires that are off is the left headlight both hanging. Connected to nothing. The ground needs to be hooked up to get the switches or saying its faulty? Wow I'm gonna look in the morning. I have OCD and its killing me. Had it turning over with solenoid but nothing because the key turns green the the break light blinks. Do I need the positive wire on the headlight that's hanging. Connected too or tape it? Ty I heard the clicking to in the motor as well. That you described. Either way ty. Sorry to ramble and apologize if it was a waste of time reading this. I'm not mechanically inclined lol
Sounds like the parking brake circuit isn't completing connection the mower needs to start. Hard to diagnose here but keep checking things any try to not have any disconnected wires. Good luck.
I have a similar Husqvarna that have experienced turn key to start and nothing. With the key on I tried to engage blades and what sounds like the solenoid clicks. I turn off blades and try to start again and it works. Is this something that will continue to work for me or do you know of anything I should check or replace?
Mine wont start either- just checked the headlight harness and it looks like one of the ground wires (and also the plug that attaches to the harness that goes to the headlights themselves) are partially melted because it made contact with the rectangular silver box (sorry dont know the name of it) on the mower. The wire is so closely melted to the adapter its going to be really difficult to splice in a new wire, so can i just cut the adapter out completely and wire the two grounds from the harness to the headlight ground wire? And also- how does your lawnmower start without you sitting on it? Can you just disconnect that safety harness under the seat?
@@TepcoCycleRepair I replaced melted wire with a new one. Unfortunately it didnt work. Already replaced the starter, solenoid, ignition switch and battery has full charge. I tried the screwdriver trick on the solenoid and the engine turned slightly but then nothing. Should i get a new solenoid?
@@VideosbySteve before you do that, turn the switch to the on position, use a jump start cables negative from neg on battery to a bolt on the engine, positive from the positive to the starter itself where the wire from the solenoid connects. Keep it on the battery but just hold it on the starter if it cranks. If it cranks hold it on for a few 10 sec at a time to see if it starts. This way your bypassing everything, if it still doesn't crank you have other issues. If it turned a little and stopped, you may have loose valves causing the auto decompression to not work. Most mower batteries, even at full charge, can't push the engine past the compression stroke without it. Hope that helps.
Also a fully charged battery might fail a load test. To bypass that do the same as I just listed but hook it up to a car battery (as long as the vehicle is not running).
Have a Husqvarna Briggs/Landguard engine. While I was mowing it just quit running. I restarted it, mowed for about 5 min and it quit again. When I try to restart now I get a rapid clicking sound. Replaced the selanoid...still going the same. Any ideas?
Check your battery by load testing it, not just static voltage. You may have a charging issue draining your battery, which has now damaged it. Trickle charge it and see if it runs longer.
Please help. I replaced solenoid, blade switch, seat switch,and key switch and battery. My tractor does not crank at all but after sitting there for 2-3 minutes of turning key with no cranking , it will start. I can get off and turn it on and it will. But leave it for 20 or so and back to same symptoms. I did notice that I have no power on white wire after I check it with light test or like yours does. I have tested the solenoid and it is good. Why does it start and sometimes no crank at all. Thank you
I have the same issue, but I have fixed that wire, replaced starter solenoid, clutch pedal switch, seat switch, new ignition switch, and new battery and still noting with the key. I can jump the solenoid and fire it right up...
Re check you switches that that are working correctly the do continuity tests of your wires. Sounds like either you have a wire not connected or broken or a malfunctioning safety switch. I have another video on testing switches.
Discovered my ground wire to headlights all three wires bare and touching. Seems like a common problem. Now I need to find and fix the inline fuse from the white wire at the solenoid wire running back to the ignition switch.
I have no power at the ignition switch. But if run power from battery positive to fuel solenoid it turns on. It also illuminates the time display. Is it the ignition switch or the starter solenoid??
Bout to tear into for 3rd time now knowing bout headlight being part of ignition circuit. Started, back up to mow & shut off like got off seat & shut off. Hasn’t fired since(won’t crank). I know I’m having electrical issues & fuse good but seems like ground issue however-headlights won’t light up so guessing this was my problem. Bout to tackle in hopes
Two switches that has press in type safety. 1 is I believe for seat that’s been bypassed but the other was down by steering sector released. Was a zip tie and old black tape holding down at one time til recently when backing down embankment it slipped & opened or tripped & that’s what the problem was
I did test lights and then not working led me to searching harness or at least trying lights after watching your video because I had no clue was part of circuit that could be culprit in not starting.
I bought a house and it came with this same exact tractor. I have a question - what is the white female spade connector? You can see it resting on the red battery cable in your video. I assumed that was my issue but i have a couple other harnesses that are disconnected as well.
Is it cranking at all? A bad safety won't let it crank at all. If it cranks and has no spark, it could be a ground. Pull the kill switch wire off the coil and see if it starts.
Im having a similar problem with my mower. the wires up to the headlamps are all severed. when I turn the key I don't even get a voltage measurement on the dash. how do i remove the headlamps from the circuitry?
Connect all grounds going to the headlights. Use a multimeter to figure out which are grounds and you can attach them and ground them to be double sure.
husqvarna yth2146k mower wouldnt shut off with key, choked it out, now when you turn the key to start it it doesnt do anything. hr meter and headlights dont work. no power whatsoever. any clue?
I would chase your power, start at the battery, then turn the key to the start and see if you get power to the starter solenoid, if not, check your ignition switch. See my latest video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PbRzbqkZ_ZE.html
I have the exact no crank no start problem but the wires are fine. Mine can sit over night then will usually start the next morning but if I turn it off it wont restart
I have a Husqvarna YTH21K46 won't start, I fellow by RU-vid video, check cable connection, replace Spark Plugs RC12YC, and replace Duracell Ultra UI Heavy Duty 350 battery, then I try to start it, only have some electrical "Ji----" noise and engine never fire up, if I try more than 3 times the fuse 20A broken, when fuse broken the front light will not be on, so I pretty sure that is battery problem, so I went to Batteries shop to check the battery they told me that battery is working fine, I take another try to order different brand battery support 21 HP which is my Kohler engine have, if this battery not work I will consider to replace solenoid, but after I replace new battery and spark plug, try to start engine again, one try engine start beautiful every thing is working fine, this is my experience to share with my friend. Do by yourself before send to dealer repair. save you a lot of money with shipping cost.
Those two grounds for the light ,are they ment to meet one another?,do they touch each other,mine melted on the Muffler ,at at connector so i have to splice em back together
They go to the headlight, one is a ground the other is power. Use a continuity test touching the end of one wire to ground, find continuity ground that wire and you should be good. If you have a double ground wire on that side and power on the other then yes attach the two.
My mower worked last week and now it doesnt, it allready has a new battery, just put a new ignition switch, but no message is being sent from the switch to the starter, but when i put a wrench on the two points, its turns over. Is it a fuse issue or a bad cord?
Had the same problem on my Bolens. Won't start unless I used a long flathead screw driver to touch the solenoid and the key switch turns off just fine. Where is this damn safety switch?
@@shogunfox7141 There are safety switches throughout the machine. You need to check each. One for the blades, one for the brake, seat, neutral etc. You need to check them all. They are all simple continuity switches, on or off. Follow the wires.
