Rip'n Packs + Shark Byte M12 Lens Mod 

It is pretty great, but unfortunately it is a bit of a drive for me, so I don't come here often. Believe it or not, the park is officially designated as an FPV drone park, and it is managed by our local MultiGP chapter.

Did you see my note in the description text? This ET5 spent a few days in a tree too. 😅

@@MrShutterBug Yeah lol. Friends with drones are the best 😊

I have heard that too, but my antennas work pretty well as shown. I have tried connecting the patches directly, but I could not discern any difference. The orientation of the antenna matters much more. That said, there is probably some negative effect from the adapters. Antennas are very sensitive instruments, and they have to be carefully tuned and impedance matched. It would be interesting to go deeper on this topic, but I don’t have the equipment to measure it properly.

@@MrShutterBug Thank you, as always, for the reply 😎

I like DJI too, you've just seen more Shark Byte stuff on my channel recently because it's new to me so I've been experimenting with it (I like new toys). Shark Byte looks better in the goggles and in DVR, but there's no question that DJI looks the best (at least it does with the full sized camera or Nebula Pro). DJI is probably a better experience for most people, but Shark Byte does have some advantages that I appreciate. SB has super low latency and the latency never changes. It feels very smooth and consistent. I would choose Shark Byte for competitive racing and for micro drones because latency is very important to me in those cases. I would choose DJI for longer range, world exploration, or casual freestyle where image quality matters more than latency. That's my opinion. Other people will tell you differently.

@@MrShutterBug I didn't know that SB has consistent latency - that's a huge plus ! On all the other points, I can agree 👍🏼 You should defo try out Elrs (ExpressLRS) it works flawless for me ✌🏼 BetaFPV just brought a module out for the Frsky X-Lite & TBS Tango 2... Also some receivers which have more telemetry output power than the Happymodel ones, but they are bigger.. 🤔

@@Cre8ionz. On DJI the frame rate(latency) change with micro freeze. The fpv feed on SB is smooth.

You can't connect the buzzer directly to a regular UART because it will draw too much current. It is possible to create a buzzer circuit, but it requires a transistor and resistor. I have never done it myself, but I know that people have done it. If it helps, you can also make the motor beeper louder by turning up the "beacon strength" in the BLHeli Configurator.

@@MrShutterBug I did turn up the motor buzzer strength and so far it is working for me . Thank you so much for you answer . I think I shall investigate further .

I only use RENY for motor screws on whoops, where the motors are protected by guards. They don't usually break unless you over tighten the head. However, yes it is possible for them to break. I have also used M2 RENY for prop screws, and I had one of those break. In both cases I was able to remove the broken part of the screw by using a small hand drill. The drill bit simply has to put enough torque on the screw to get it moving. Once part of the screw sticks out, you can grab it with small pliers and twist it out the rest of the way.

The important quantities are the volume of the motor stator, the area of the spinning prop disks, and the weight of the quad (battery and all). My best suggestion is to find videos of a build that flies how you want (racing, or freestyle, or long range cruising, etc...) and then try to mimic the ratio of stator volume to disk area and disk area to weight. From there, if you were to go up to an even larger prop, the motor would probably still be able to spin it, but it would not be able to change the prop speed as quickly. Thus, using a prop that is large compared to the motor will result in reduced handling ability, however, that large prop might be very efficient for cruising. Similarly, using a motor that is small compared to the motor will result in great handling (prop can change speeds very quickly), but will probably be less efficient and noisier. Make sense? Which beta75 do you have? Does it have 1102 motors? 1103? If you want to turn that into a "toothpick", then I suggest using 65mm 2-blade props, and try to keep the weight as low as you can. If you decide to go with a smaller build with 2-inch props, then I suggest 3-4 blade. Good luck!

@@MrShutterBug Oh awesome. thanks for the very detailed reply. That will give me some direction to begin poking and prodding. Do you follow some formula for motor vs area of sprinning props or can you just intuit that stuff now? The motors are the 1102. The problem is besides slightly better video range because I put a lollipop antenna on it. It flies horrible compared to my moblite7, and only flies for 2-3min per pack. So since I have no reason to fly it atm, been looking around for what I can do with it.

I actually already have. I shot the footage for this video a few weeks ago. In that time I built a 5" racer with Shark Byte. I think it's going to be great for racing! The picture is clearer than analog and the rock solid frame rate is what you need for racing. :-)

200mW

@@MrShutterBug Thanks 🙂

The lens does not change the resolution at all, but it does help improve the colors and it helps improve contrast in the shadows.

I do give away drones from time to time. I recently gave away a Cetus FPV Kit here on the channel.

The F405 20A AIO does not have a built-in receiver. It requires an external receiver. Therefore, yes, you should be able to use a FlySky receiver. I do not have FlySky myself, but I believe it should work.

@@MrShutterBug 👍

This drone is not for sale, sorry. You can build one if you like. I made another video with a full parts list and more details about the build, if you are interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5sJYGE7f6GU.html