Thanks SO much for this! I have a mobile I'm trying to modernize and these ceiling tracks are perfect for covering the ugly panels up there. I actually had to rip out the whole living room ceiling from water damage roof neglect and the ceiling joists aren't strong enough for drywall and I didn't want to do a drop ceiling. This is perfect!
If you screw in the first and last board then why do you need a expansion gap? It’s not like the ceiling boards are going to expand and the house isn’t when the temp changes.
Great informative video! I plan on ordering this same type of ceiling quite soon. Looking through the literature it states that this will drop your ceiling by 7/8" of an inch. In my room I do not have recessed lighting, but rather a ceiling fan and on hanging light fixture. Do you think I will have to lower the junction boxes 7/8" to accommodate this ceiling? Or just get longer mounting screws? Perhaps this is just a case by case scenario. I think I will just have to pull the fan and light down and see what I'm dealing with.
If you're referring to the can lights, most have an adjustable socket plate that can move up and down by loosening the wing nut and adjusting it to the proper location and tightening. If yours doesn't have that, then you can buy a socket extender to lower the bulb to your desired height.
Hi, I saw the video to be very helpful and I will start on this project soon for my new home. i was wondering what is the length of the screws you are using? or what kind of screws would you recommend that are not too long or too short? Thank you!
So when leveling the track I noticed you only had the level perpendicular to the track, checking that one run of track is level to the next. But you didn't check the level parallel to one run of track. Is this not critical because a tongue and groove system can slightly flex to a small degree to make up for variations only in that direction? My track system is up, going to level it this weekend. Wish me luck!
Just special ordered this, they box it in pairs and one of the boxes inside the big box was damaged with the panels inside. Some quality control in the WH is needed, you shouldn't ship damaged product from the factory.
Do not understand starting and ending row gaps [especially 1/2 inch] if first and last rows are screwed up rails? Can't still expand...at least not much.
It seems odd they tell you to leave an expansion gap and then screw the final plank in place- wouldn’t this prohibit expansion? It seems like the general idea of a floating floor only on a ceiling- with a floating floor you can’t fasten the outer edges down.
I thought the same about screwing in the ends while leaving an expansion gap . I think there is enough play in the tongue and groove to make up for any expansion in that direction . I installed the same product over my existing ceiling tile by screwing the supplied mounting clips through the tile into the existing furring strips . I decided to do this because the existing tile were insulated and it also cut down on the demo time and mess . Also. I used a chop saw to cut planks which is much easier and faster . I will post video of job .
Some people like symmetry in their ceiling. To create that, you have to cut your boards on opposing ends of the ceiling so that when your boards are installed, the joints would be the same distance away from the crown molding.
@@bradeley6409 if you're using these across joists should you cut them so they end at a joist or can the 2 pieces overhang and meet in between? They seem kinda flimsy but I know when you put them all together it stiffens up
@@danmcdonald726 They have to overlap so that you have solid fastening all the way across. You can't have two meet in the middle where they are dangling.
@@bradeley6409 thanks, the manufacturer sucks ass at replying to emails and their customer support phone line only has people who can read the instructions that come in the box that are basically screw it up 12in apart. No min screw length, nothing about joists despite saying it could be used on joists, I'm really regretting buying this product from this manufacturer at this point.
@@danmcdonald726 I've never used it but it looks nice. I may use it in the near future. As far as attaching, I would use at least 1" long pan-headed wood screws and definitely attach to your joists/trusses. Floor joists are commonly 16" on center and trusses are typically 24" on center. You'll have to confirm that for layout. Locate a truss in the room and at both ends of it, mark the center of it. Sometimes pounding a nail on each side of a truss is a quick way to find the center. Do that at both ends of the room. Now mark your centers in both directions and snap lines so you know where to screw. Screw at every truss/joist. That should hold nicely. Git 'R' Dun and tell me how it went. I'll be looking for your comment.
