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The main purpose for underlayment is the sheathing would draw the moisture out of the shingles and they would deteriorate quickly into shreds. I've seen the results of no underlayment, 30yr shingles falling off the roof in pieces after about 10 years.
My roof no underlayment Shingles coming off all over it's a mess & steep multi pitch gabled dormer x3 small square turret.1904..only positive it's a story & half but has a weird very high center.. Watching videos to get brave do it myself Did house & smoke house at 16 ... It's steep..I've been up on it mutiple xs gonna use harness & secure ladder crap .. Also the 1975 shingle job lasted till 2010 except f or 1 area that leaked a south lower pitched spot..
The trouble with the roofing in the USA . They seem to just expect that the tiles slate etc are not going to keep the water out . Whereas in uk and Europe our roofs firstly very little shingles just for sheds and out buildings . Then concrete tiles and slate are there to keep the water out . The problem you have is the roof pitch in many cases far too shallow. And tye rain doesn't come off roof quickly.
I have shingled a few hundred roofs in my time, taken off shingles 30 plus years old tar paper under them was in amazing condition could have reused it(but did not) the huge benefit of the new underlay is the strength , it will not tear off the roof on a windy day if installed correct, tar paper tends to tear off. My experience.
Just had a new roof put on, pretty sure with adhesiive rain and ice underlay. Subcontractors took a shortcut and put it over bad wood on the garage. I can see the underlayment through 2 holes. What kind of repair is that going to involve - whole side of garage, bad section only? Just trying to be prepared if they BS me.
Please explain how any underlayment other then ice and water sheald is water proof after I just put 8 thousand nail holes in it. Truth is under payment is a vaper berier. Most roofing will sweat on the underside, with the change of temperature. Hens the term vaper bearier.
tar paper is junk, use sticky synthetic with 3 ft of high temp sticky ice snow shield and a hybrid shingle or metal and have it last over 50 years when installed right buy it once the technology quality is there otherwise plan on a new roof every 15 years
We just need good or great installers that care how to install any of them properly. Sad to say, but most installers are either don’t care or suck, they just want to get any jobs done asap and don’t care if they install it correctly!
I watch roofers go way too quick with their nail guns and miss the stud all the time. That hole will leak at some point after all the effort, expense and material upgrades. There is no solution for idiot proofing workers who don't care because it's not their roof.
Wrong wrong wrong!! First of all , tar paper will never prevent water from getting in. You lay it down and then install shingles over it. Those shingles get 6 or more nails EACH. 6 X hundreds or thousands of shingles equals a shit load of holes in the tar paper. Tar paper was originally intended as a release so that in 25 years you could easily strip old shingles from the sheathing. Now water & ice does have a sticky back that will self seal around the nail shaft provided the nail was set to proper depth. This was intended to help prevent leaks in the case of an ice dam. And should be place at least 36" up the roof deck from the inner side of a framed exterior wall. Now synthetic stuff is harder to tear but otherwise is equal to tar paper. No sealing ability and again full of holes after the shingles are installed. As far as covering the entire deck with grace ice and water.... that's just ridiculous unnecessary added expense and when it's time to replace the roof shingles, you will most likely have another added expense of plywood replacement because you are going to cause a bunch of damage trying to remove that STUCK ON water & ice underlayment. Tar paper prevents this. Let the shingles do their job of shedding the rain water. To avoid ice dam issues.... make sure your attic gets plenty of air circulation and stays below freezing temps in the winter season. This means being absolutely sure that heat from the living space is not allowed to enter the attic space. This heat WILL melt snow on your roof and then the water will run down to the UNHEATED overhangs and refreeze causing an ice dam that will now cause more melting snow to back up under the shingles and find its way into your attic and walls. Roofs are not intended to be submerged in water. They are intended to shed water .
I’d like to see a video of real world testing of underlayment. Putting 15# felt paper, 30# felt paper, synthetic paper and ice and water down then soak it with artificial rain aka a hose and see how protective it is and for how long. That’s a video I’d give a thumbs up to.
When the installer is preforming a demo with a synthetic underlayment. The roofers have to remove the shingles but not with pitch forks. That’s like picking up a vacuum sealed potatoes with a folk. For lack of a better analogy. They have to remove the pins from each place they were secure. safe to say the synthetic IS superior over felt. But I would be curious about. Is ice and water barrier cost effectiveness and how do you make the customers experience exclusive. Great question 👍 its extremely hot in Texas. I’ll tell you what.
Why not 30 lb. tar paper down first (not with staples -- round plastic cap), then a layer of Polyglass "Polystick MX" self-adhered, then one layer of architectural shingles?
I have roofing contractors trying to sell tar paper claiming synthetic is crap and leaks and I have contractors using synthetic and claim tar paper is a thing of the past. Who's right?
I've been roofing since the 70's. Still do. A roof done right with proper attic venting doesn't need any underlayment. I do put that crap on but I know it doesn't help.
I totally agree. I’m a framer and have been for 30 years. I put the roof on my own house 28 years ago. I used ice and water at the eves and in the valleys and no tar paper because back then, I too thought it was unnecessary. I just ripped it off today and guess what…the 5/8 osb(16”o.c. rafters) was beautiful!! Like you said, if you vent it good and do the right thing, you don’t need that crap! I feel totally vindicated today for all the times I couldn’t get a good answer out of “professionals” for why you should use felt paper. Now I can take those 2 rolls of Tiger Paw back! lol! Thanks for being a voice of reason. Also, I hate roofing!😁
I'm getting ready to change my roof. The rep that came out wants to put a warer barior on the botom & sides. He's pushing the gaf products. Then tiger paws underlamet I live in oregon Mild Winters 6:51 . Some snow but not too much, lots of rain.
Any video “explaining” these products without referencing The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association is laughable. Also not mentioning the “Consensus Standards” e.g. ASTM D1970 as it relates to self adhered shingle underlayment shows your broader incompetence.
How about permeability? Wouldn't a non permeable underlayment similar to poly trap moisture between it and the shingles? Wouldn't moisture that condensed under the poly after install have nowhere to go except soak your decking?
How come I tear off hundreds of roofs with zero underlayment and ice and water membrane and they're bone dry. 4/12 pitches too...3 tab. Personally I think it's easier to go straight when you can see the deck. And if you want you can see the rafter lines so you can throw a nail or two per shingle into the rafters for added hold. Correct me if I'm wrong?
well...not exactly. You may be a good roofing "salesman" but i doubt you possess a roofing license. I have 25+ years in roofing as a state and city licensed, certified contractor. Felt is, principally, a vapor barrier NOT waterproofing. And that is why it is technically classified as such. You will (I promise) blast 1000s of holes through your fancy "waterprooof" felt when you nail your shingles through it. Still a "waterproof barrier"? Of course it isn't and you know it. The actual origin of felt usage is interesting - you should read about it but it had nothing to do with being a part of a "waterproof roof system" - suffice to say for decades roofers didn't even install it (I've torn off roofs with no felt and they were perfectly fine for the 30 year shingle service life). Felt was made for the homeowner to "dry-in" his roof when a father/son DIY'd it because it took them weeks - and it was a common thing back in early 1900s America. Basically - felt was a tarp but then the manufactures realized they could get everyone to "value-add" to the job and it became taboo not to install felt when everyone knew that in most cases, it was unnecessary. Kinda like the way "government" has become "necessary". If you install shingles properly, the felt is superfluous. Felt is rarely actually necessary - says so in most shingle application manuals in fact it used to not even be a warranty requirement until they realized they could force you to buy/use "their" branded product and spend even more on fancy stuff that was totally unnecessary. Yes, below 4/12 pitch you need to provide more than a vapor barrier because in the absolute worst storms, it is possible for a shingle system to be defeated but it is still rare even below that pitch and most homes are 4 or better. But these fancy peel n stick ice and water shields are BS and not necessary. You know and i know that the manufacturers are just creating expensive fancy products so you make your jobs "sound" better than the other guys and that's all fine - EXCEPT when you guys go and start saying that roofers are "cutting corners" by not installing this. No - they're saving their customer's money by not installing it. A shady roofer will say he is installing something when he isn't. A pro will not charge you for - and not install - something you don't need because he knows his roof does not need it in order not to leak - just like his dad's and his grandad's didn't need it. Bottom line is that there certainly all sorts of roof scenarios and sometimes you need something extra but any real licensed roofer can explain those. But don't run around trying to make other roofers out to be the bad guy, when you're just installing crap your customer's don't even need - because you might just get called out by a 3rd generation certified master. PS: I've seen installs you posted on YT; standard ridge on a dimensional? overspray and wrong paint code for flashing? one inch exposure at the eves? valley metal on normal pitch? all mistakes. Monkey see, monkey doo - someone taught you wrong.
You lost all credibility when you called felt a vapor barrier. I’m laughing out loud. What the hell are you protecting from vapor with felt? There absolutely are times Ice and Water shield is needed especially when there is a pinch and turn in a valley that can have ice dams and create a pool of water behind it. Metal valleys are cosmetic and pitch has nothing to do with anything so no clue what you’re talking about….only time it does matter is with shingles that cannot be weaved. You sound like one of those “my daddy did it like this so that’s the way I’m doing it” guys that just get left behind with new technology. Those guys used 1” nails and roof cement around chimneys….I’ll bet you still use the pipe jacks that have rubber seals that crack in 12 years.
@@crackheadbiden3273 this comment contradicts the reply you made to my comment. You told me if water gets behind a shingle it's gonna leak and felt is not necessary. Read the instructions on products before you install them then you'll understand their purpose and when and where to use them. Metal valleys are not cosmetic they are the best choice especially on low-pitch roofs to get the water and leaves/needles out of the valley. Weaved valleys are strictly cosmetic there is absolutely no advantage to them they hold snow/ice and debris. And if your weaving valleys and you don't have metal under them you're a hack.
I got a brand new roof put on in 2014. they stripped it down put on new wood and everything. My neighbor was asking me questions about my roof today because he needs one. I had my son go up there on our roof and take a picture and to my horror I saw my shingles that are a smoke gray but where the roof slopes down there is a 13 inch spot where the roof is a light gray and lays different from the rest of the roof. What is that. I have a picture of it but I don't know how to send it to you.
Any cons to using ice & water on entire roof decking? I've read its not recommended because it doesn't allow roof to breath but by code it us required on bottom edges and flashing tape is required on plywood seams so I don't understand how that is any different! Thanks
It would be good to talk about code requirements for ice barriers and where they are required to be used. I would also like to see you go over the correct way to install a drip edge on the eave and gable ends of the roof. A lot of roofers do not understand the concept of protecting a roof from back up especially if you have gutters. The membrane is taken over the edge and down behind the drip. Then the drip is installed followed by flashing tape to seal the leading edge of the drip.
@@manictiger That is the very purpose of codes-with out them customers would complain consistently and demand something done with codes people complain they have to follow them-you can't win
Have you heard of putting a peel and stick on top of asphalt paper to protect the wood from needing replaced when it's time years down the road? I've heard if you put peel and stick on the wood, you'll have to replace the wood if you need a reproof later.
So after you staple a million holes in the underlayment installing it.....then shoot more holes in it when the shingles are installed.......what secondary protection are you really going to get?
Was told heavy asphalt felt seals those nail holes to keep water from penetrating to the deck. I wonder if anyone has actually conducted an experiment to see if that's true.
I mean, it’s underlayment. Sure it’s part of the roofing system, but it’s not the roof. Underlayment is a vapor barrier and nothing more. Besides the ice and water shield it is not meant to stop water penetration once the roof is installed. After all there are thousands of nail holes in it after you install the shingles. The best part about a good underlayment is how walkable it is on a steep roof. I’ve tried plenty of synthetics, but in my opinion 30 pound felt it’s still the best.
I sell a lot of metal roofs. I don't know any roofer in my area who would agree with that. (Pacific Northwest, Gulf Islands, Canada). I get a lot of homeowners going for cheap, especially because some of their projects are small square footage, so they can't wrap their heads around the cost of a 10 square roll of synthetic, but I can't think of an actual roofer who is still using felt here. My 2 bits.
Ice and water shield IS meant to stop water penetration! It's exact job it to stop water that's laying on top of ice dams from penetrating the roof deck once it travels back up under the shingles.. as for the 'hundreds of holes' ice and water shield seals around the nails.
I read you shouldn't put shingles directly on ice shield because they will adhere to the shield and years later when they are being removed they can't easily get them off without removing the ice shield too.
well. Thats due to the tar adhesive on the back of the shingles. Shingles also stick to shingles underneath, plywood, pretty much whatever you lay shingles ontop of, the shingle will adhere to when it gets warm that first time. however, if you are pulling shingles off the roof I assume you are replacing the roof. you wouldnt want to reuse the undeayment anyhow. so,
Can you put ice and water underlayment on top of the titanium underlayment. We have a roof leak and when we reroof I don't want any chance of it leaking again 😊
I used to install the synthetic, installed it on a couple of new construction jobs and had leaks around the nail heads so I went back to 30lb. Have you had similar issues?
I install the synthetic with a Plastic cap nailer or Stinger stapler. Also, the synthetic underpayment is never meant to be waterproofing. Technically, as soon as you penetrate any undergarment, it ceases to be leak proof, that's why proper shingle installation s so important, especially on 3 tab on less than 8:12 in windy areas where wind driven rain is a concern
Sharkskin self adhered synthetic paper is something I’ve just come across recently. They are using it for UV protection on areas where the high temp underlayment is to be exposed more than 90 days on the project I’m on. Other than that I really like Carlisle’s WIP products and any shingle paper that has cool pictures/animals on it. Rhinos, whales, elephants, etc.
one roofer that didn't serve my area (which was my 1st choice roofer), said he only uses malarkey udl 80#. He claimed its the only underlayment that self seals around nails. Is very heavy which is why no one uses it. Thoughts on that one?www.dhtconstructionwa.com/uploads/4/7/9/2/47926495/rightstart-udl-tech-data-2015.pdf
A roofer told me that he always uses 3 layers of underlayment. The top one is the ice n water shield, which he says would seal the nail holes. Is that correct?
Obviously you have no clue what you are talking about. Once water gets under a shingle it doesn’t matter if there is felt or synthetic since water will find a nail and leak.
@@crackheadbiden3273 yep 25yrs experience and I've been doing it wrong. Guess I'll start barebacking my roofs. I get it when you where 10yrs old you cleaned up shingles from the ground while your grandpa shingled his shed. I guess your an expert. Felt gives extra protection should water get under the shingle. I've seen many 3-tab roofs that we're so far gone the notches were right down to the felt and they didn't leak. But they had tar paper instead of synthetic. And where I live we get 160inches of snow annually and many of these houses have massive ice dams.
Please recommend solutions to get rid of tar smelling inside my house after new roof installed 1 year ago. Roofing company used 30# tar paper, dimensional, architectural shingles. The tar smell is unbearable during high temperature weather and when the A/C is running. Thank you!
Lol that the most garbage synthetic underlay there is. You shouldn’t even be able to rip it by hand. Ft synthetics are where it’s at. I would never put that on my roof. Might as well use tyvek or rhino liner. Complete garbage.
@@StallionFernando I once did do a whole entire house of 45 square of pure grace ice and water how ever haz put that underlayment nows it a pay in the everything in summer time with that material but I have to say very very recommended I've heard it can stay up to 2 months on the roof with no shingles layed and it won't come off or leak we actually left the roof exposed for the night because of some home owner difficulties with the sells man and had a bit of rain come through that night and there where no leaks through chimney nor roof boot intakes nothing but the home owner had a big pocket he daily drives a Bentley
My house was built in 1980 and has a concrete tile roof and I'm not the original owner. However, the builders made the roof without any subroof ... just flat 1x6 horizontal slats under the tiles. You can easily see daylight looking out the attic space. Having my roof replaced because a couple edge tiles have broken off. Just deciding whether I want (concrete vs. ceramic) tiles or composite/asphalt roof (with a completely added subroof). Your recommendations? I live in California's central valley where we get winter lows in the 20's F and summer highs in the 110s. This video is helpful. Thanks!
My 6 yr old roof bit the dust in Hurricane Ian in FL. My insurance adjuster said it was in good shape. I lost all the cap shingles and more. An independent public adjuster told me I need a new roof that the gutters are FULL of gravel or whatever you call it to not clean it out it’s evidence. We had 8 hrs of 150 mph winds for 8 solid hours. I’m trying to educate myself but so confused. I want to know what questions to ask when choosing a roofer. Probably 1 in 3-5 houses here are tarped or have a new roof. 😮
Where can I find the current pricing per roll for this Malarkey Arctic Seal underlayment? Just had a new roof installed, and the contractor should have put the Malarkey Arctic Seal, but instead used GAF Feltbuster! This seems like a breach of contract. Would I have recourse to make the roofer do my roof again to put the Arctic Seal underlayment? I ordered the Malarkey Vista shingles too, and now I need to confirm those are the shingles on my roof (they had brought the Highlander shingles the day before, and I told them about the error).
If I had extra blueskin SA, could I use that as an underlayment for a shed? It being slippery isn’t a big deal, it’s a small shed. I’m just wondering more about the shingles adhering. Actually they get nailed so it shouldn’t matter…. Right?? Lol
I'd like to know how it reduces your heating bill because most attics are ventilated and designed to be close to the exterior temperature. A product that adds or retains heat would tend to melt the snow and create ice dams.
I’m curious is anyone aware of any synthetic roofs that leaked once exposed to a few rains before the shingles were applied..tearing at the shank, using plastic cap nails resulted in numerous leaks on a roof from a reputable roofer I know.
I live in El Paso TX (79821) Its Very Sunny, Very HOT and Dry. Is there a thermal barrier that we can install between the underlayment and the Asphalt shingle?
Let's pretend I'm ignorant on this subject and going to ask a question. When installing the underlayment way do people make the 1st couple rows or lays [near the rain drip edge] tar paper and the rest the plastic looking underlayment?
Most roof leaks that develop over time are from missed placed nails in the shingle during installation that rust out over time and allow water to penetrate causing a leak, there's nothing wrong with good old' 15 or 30lb felt paper, Proper installation is the key,
Exactly. Plain old felt has worked for decades. It's all about more profit and sales. They invent new membranes and most end up being crap anyhow. Stick to felt is wise choice
Licensed since 85…I tried the synthetic & liked them- but-a friend had “numerous” leaks with synthetic & determined that the synthetic was tearing at the nail, the synthetic didn’t hug the roof adequately & put to much pressure around the nail…I went back to Astm #30- 2 layers if the roof is a rock to composition conversation or under 4/12 pitch- always use peel & stick in valleys..If I’m going over 1x6’s some times I’ll upgrade to modified felt..
the issue is using just nails and not nails or staples with plastic caps as per specification on the install instructions from most, if not all the manufacturers Been using synthetic for about 5 years, we've never had a single leak or tearing. Some synthetics are thicker than others, such as GAF's Felt Buster Vs their Tigerpaw. when using the Felt Buster, you need to pull it tight as you're rolling and Stapling with the Stinger caps at the same time. It is a learning curve going from tar paper to synthetic
Can i use the synthetic underlayment just by itself? I watch a video where a guy said to place and ice and water shield under the Synthetic underlayment. is it necessary or just an added layer of protection? Thank you for the info.
Please suggest which of these underlayment combination is best for Florida? -1 layer of weather lock G Granulated Ice and water and 1 layer of Rhino synthetic -2 layers of RhinoRoof synthetic underlayment and WeatherLock Specialty Tile and Metal for the high temp water barrier at all valleys, along walls, and around roof penetrations. -1 layer of RhinoRoof® Granulated Self-Adhered Underlayment
Actually, the best in Florida at this moment will be SharkSkin Ultra laid at 3/4 exposure with a 6" grid spacing using 1-1/4" ring shank nails. System is Florida approved @ -210 psf and carries a 50 year limited manufacturer warranty. Oh and exposure is 1 year.....Ain't gonna find nothing better than that!
Can't a roofer easily damage a synthetic underlayment, like a tear, with all the tools, equipment, and boots working on it? The stuff looks like a tarp, but thinner. Tarps break down and get really stringy and unusable.
Let's think about a re-shingle job on an existing house. What is the main importance or purpose of the underlayment? It' not put on primarily as a secondary leak stopper. It's put on because unless you are putting new shingles over the old, it is YOUR ONLY leak stopper, until the roof is finished. I've heard of some underlayments that won't even hold water. What sense is that?
I have heard of "breathable" roofing underlay, much like the "air barriers" used on walls that allow moisture vapour to pass thru, but not water that may have entered the roof cavities. This would be a product typically used under vertically strapping, which would be termed the second roof. Such a product would only be nailed thru at the vertical strapping and would have horizontal strapping spaced above it. A video discussing these products and methods of application would be brilliant.
I was told to use up to 50 pound tar paper to make the shingles last longer because when heat penetrates your shingles the more value of tar paper the heat does not burn the shingles up. The elastomeric underlayment goes on edges, valleys, and the crown roof vents. You have a great opportunity to use many different underlayment for different conditions and get maximum longevity out of your roof shingles. Always go with architectural…. 3 tab is a horrible choice. Spend the money…. Buy once cry once… and if it is applied right…. You will not outlive your roof
CertainTeed makes the fiberglass felt paper. It's banded as Roofer Select. I hate using it, leaves me itchy for a day or two so where long sleeves and Pants if you're not use to handling it. Don't get excited either, it tears just as easily as 15 & 30 ibs paper and if it gets rained on before you install, it wrinkles up and takes forever to dry flat again Never going back to it since we've been bringing in Felt Buster and Tigerpaw from GAF, I couldn't imagine going back to Tar paper
That one spot where you show the video of it raining and it looks like the problem I’m having, I just got new gutters and when it’s pouring out it looks like the water is coming out from the eaves where it meets the gutter
We used the peel and stick flintastic stuff on our treehouse roof. It's confusing because as a non roofer I was thinking for a minute I had to put felt on tope of the flintastic underlayment. ~~ I guess I don't have to. It's not a crucial job and the hexagonal treehouse is open on two sides, but we still want a decent roof.
What about cost comparisons for all these underlayments? The paper-type (first one) is old school, and, a home owner, I would prefer something better! Thank you for vid! Very helpful to know about this, so that people can see if contractors/roofs would do a good job both at labor AND materials they charge the customers!
I'm an idiot at roofing and I Don't like ice and water barrier from Owens cornering. I do love their synthetic felt. I can tell you the synthetic felt held with cap nail until 60mph winds. The ice and water completely held in those wind without me really worrying about it much. The reason I don't like the ice and water is if the nails are not fully sank it will protrude through your intended barrier. It says to use a fifty-pound roller I used a ten and it was a mess. Only one side will have ice and water barrier the other side I'm doing two layers of synthetic felt instead. Time will tell if it's a good idea or not
And I can give you the numbers on the current day cost on both 268 ft of like 4ft wide synthetic felt costs is $99.99 or less Ice and water 70 ft about 4ft wide was $99.99 or less
my comment is coming from a guy with zero experience, but who is willing to think. I believe roofing is being done incorrectly. I would put the "base" (see video for definition) material down as the water proofing layer. entire roof. Then buy cheap asphalt shingles, to physically protect the base layer. The shingle flaps must be glued down to prevent the wind from catching them and ripping them off. The surface must address the loading of branch hits. Thus the cheap shingle need fibreglass distributed in the shingle to opppose the shear stress of the branch hit. the stone should be pressed into the shingle to minimize stone loss. they should be as white as possible to reflect sun. the shingle needs copper imbedded in it to minimize organic growth. I guess this shingle is not cheap, ah? oh well. so what do people think of the above thoughts. oh....i should mention....that the underlayment base does NOT need to be breathable because the shingles are not breathable. .
If the ice and water shield sticks to decking and can't be removed, then you have to replace all your decking just because the ice and water shield failed and leaked and needs to be replaced? That doesn't sound good.
I’m a home owner, and I’m wanting the ice and water underlayment install on my roof; can this be put on over a layer asphalt shingle roof or do you have to strip all shingles off, or. the underlayment be installed on the plywood surface? Please text me back
One question, what’s tear off look like after installing the this new sticky stuff, or do you leave it on for the new roof. Seems like a mess removing it?
Ive been researching this for months and can't get a solid answer. 2x6 fiberglass, conditioned attic, in NV zone5, (-10f with snow to 115f), high wind application. I want to install a metal roof with an air gap. my only question is, is it safe to install peel and stick (zero perm) onto entire roof deck? Im concerned that interior moisture could start adding up in the fiberglass. I like peel and stick for the benefit of sealing around penetrations.
It really depends on the slope. A 3/12 to 4/12 shingle roof needs it. BUT you must make sure you have good attic ventilation because Ice and water shield does not breathe like standard felt
From a daily roofer that is dedicated to roofing I do not recommend hi temp iva and water it’s one of the worst brands the tar literally cracks and falls if it’s not hot enough. The 30 pound felt is my choice in my opinion because it’s actually better against water and it’s basically almost a water shield because of the coating of tar . Synthetic is going to be my choice on a steep roof because synthetic doesn’t rip apart like 30 pound felt
@@eddiespagetti8395 people seem to forget that felt has a self sealing ability . Synthetics do not. Tearing on the roof is not a big problem, holes through the paper, much more of a problem,.
I think it is very interestring that if you go back to the begining of man and women building shelters/homes to live in. The material and construction of the roof was simple and primitive. Straw, or grass, or a variety of organic material woven atop the roof substraight. Later you see shake shingles attached directly to the roof structure. for a ton of years those style of roof was sufficent. Sure the odds of the roof leaking was greater. But the repairs were made and the occupants were dry once again. cheap but labor intensive roofing systems. Now roofs are still labor intensive, way more labor.. products are numerous and expensive... who says you need to spend 20 grand on a roof? is the weather we get now really worse than the weather amd storms out ansestors faced?
Would like to see a review on ridge vent systems. I have a Cobra ridge vent. With the size of the vent slots It lets in tons of seeds and debre into the attic. Is there anything that can be done with these to prevent the debre infiltration?
