@@sumduma55 It is just the way she says drawer. She says draws. It is just her way of saying it. Good stuff as we all say things differently. No speech impediment just Tamar.
Okay I'm starting a new drinking game. Every time Tamar says "Draw" we take a shot of liquor. But on a serious note, flip your door so the vent holes are on the bottom. Looks great 👍.
I never noticed her accent until her Q and A video where she talked about pronouncing “drawers”. Now that’s all I can think about! Oh, and I can’t wait to build this for my new router lift. Thank you!
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ru-vid.comUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
I appreciate that you work with (and openly share) “workarounds” based on what you have in your shop (i.e., no dado). Many of us, myself included, have similar constraints.
"I literally just had it..." That's basically 90% of my time in my shop. Anyhow, absolutely love ALL of the content you put out. I have learned so much from you!
I love this project! one suggestion on the dust collection: flip your door so that the slots are on the bottom, and the collector will pull air across that bottom shelf and help keep dust there to a minimum. It's already catching the fine stuff that doesn't make it, just needs a little help sweeping up the slightly bigger pieces. When they get to the bottom of that cabinet there's no air movement there to sweep them away.
@@3x3CustomTamar I think the real issue is the location of your lower dust port. Since its at the top the heavier larger chips fall to the bottom, you basically built a dust separator. On most commercial router boxes the outlet is at the bottom of the box. What you did totally works and as long as you keep after it occasionally still a good solution but large chips will collect in the bottom if you dont move the port down lower.
I have never heard you say “drawer” until your FAQ video. Then, I watch this one next! Ha! As a Southerner, I empathize with you…people are always making fun of us. 🙂 Great video! Love your process and how you walk through it all.
Love your videos and have built a couple of your projects for my use. When it comes to Router Tables, everybody attaches a dust collection hose to the fence. I wanted my table to roll under my chop saw workbench and didn't want a complicated hose configuration so I went a different direction. My 4 inch dust collector comes up through the bottom of the box the router is in so the chips and dust fall down towards the hose. Since this box like area is directly under the table top, I drilled a 2 inch hole through the top about 1 inch back from the router mounting plate. On the back of my fence I built a box that creates an enclosure/tunnel that extends back over the hole in the table. The way it works is that as the router chips off wood, they fly back through the fence, into the tunnel and fall/get sucked down the hole. It appears to be as successful as the hose/fence method as I hardly have any dust/chips left on the table top. Just an idea that works well and eliminates the need for a hose.
Great project as usual. I use draw as well, picked it up from years of watching This Old House and New Yankee Workshop with my grandfather. Norm would be proud that you are carrying it to a new generation
Right! It’s not that rare of an accent. Someone even thought it was a speech impediment! 🤣 I’m glad you have a good sense of humor about all these unworldly people :) who’ve never heard something from Long Island or New England speak before. I think some Brits say “draw” too.
@@3x3CustomTamar I first noticed in in another video and thought more so that is was just another thing I didn't know about as I'm new to woodworking. After a couple failed google searches for "woodworking DRAWS" and hearing you use it in a couple more videos, I was able to use context clues to figure out what you meant. I felt so dumb/silly afterwards. lol
Not going to lie, I didn’t immediately comment on the pronunciation of “drawers” because I wanted to be sensitive in the event that it WAS an impediment! 😄 However, after I listened to you capably pronounce other words with “r” endings (four, more, quarter), I determined it was an east coast accent. I’m sure I’ve heard it in other videos of yours, but I think “draw” was every 5th word in this vid. 😉 I don’t understand how one can properly 😉 pronounce “four” and “quarter” but not “drawer,” but I’m sure people have similar questions about much of my Euro-accented English vocab! Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
22:41 easy peasy 😉gust move the vacuum hose to near bottom side it's well clear all drawer but you must close all that hole in perspex glass...nice job Mam
Nice design, suggest moving the dust port to the bottom and slope the bottom down front to back. Gravity is your friend when you don't fight it. Also finish the dust compartment nice and smooth so dust and chips move freely. By having the dust port high its effectively like a dust deputy separating the dust from the chips.
The way you explained how to get the correct width for the drawer fronts and backs is one of the best I have heard. Everybody usually rushes thought that spot, or skips over it. Thank you
Well done that's one good looking router table you've built. You could also shorten the door and put a dust drawer below the router that could be emptied when done routering.
As probably so many of your viewers, I certainly hope you and your family, home and workshop got through that horrible hurricane without to much pain or damage....rr Normandy, Fra.
Awesome build. Thank you for sharing. Regarding the bottom vent port, you need a sufficient capture velocity. Not sure the spec on your blower but not exceeding a capture distance of one times the diameter of your duct is a good start (eg 4" from duct port). For your natural draft orifices on your plexiglass, your on the right track on creating a laminar airflow, but the larger the area of openings, the more air is required to keep up the speed. Regarding your duct, I would try to use gravity to your advantage by moving your vent attachment down or use an interior downward shelf. Also reduce the length of flex line to the minimum possible; use pvc or galvanized (something smooth). If your do elect to use the flex line, keep it as taunt as possible to reduce the internal ridges. Avoid any tight or unnecessary turns or bends in airflow.
You are amazing! You explain everything in great depth and are also not afraid to show your mistakes, which takes even more courage to show how you can improve.
Looks good ! Moving the dust box vent to bottom of box would increase removal of large chunks (with hole at top it is acting like a separator leaving the large stuff 'separated' .) There are better vented insert plates (router cutter bit insert plate) , some by Incra or just modified with extra holes ) to increase air flow .
Exactly what I did too plus the angle plate after experimenting with the proper angle with some cardboard. Also put a furring strip around the door with foam gasket and magnets to keep the door closed...also used a piano hinge to help alignment over time. You can also add some small baffles to direct the airflow to the port keeping in mind most routers exhaust from the bit side. Note I'm only using a shop vac and HD separator bucket with 2.5" hose...works great. Great job Tamar, you can always tweak it after using it awhile!!
I built much the same cabinet a few years back and put the dust port at the bottom with the bottom angled down slightly from the front and a couple of angled side pieces as Dogwood Tales mentioned.
Long time since I watched you on YT. Seeing that Triton plunge saw and your table saw are an excellent brake on my mouse as I was getting sucked towards Makita, then Mafell and Festool packages including saw, track, boxes, and dust extractor vacuum with the new Festool small table saw. Thanks from the bottom of my bank account. On getting children to eat veg. I cracked that with my son about 25 years ago by sweating/toasting chopped brassicas, peas, green beans, etc, in olive oil with a bit of salt and chilli flakes. Suddenly, he started hoovering them up. Turning 20, he introduced his no-greens drama college friends to the idea, along with freshly caught gurnard from the sea. They also hoovered it up. Steaming with butter and chilli flakes works, too. Now he's doing it with his four children. Oh - while at drama school, he did door to door sales of Hello Fresh in London, UK
Congratulations for depicting two smart elements to do the work: get your hardware first and design around it. Also, use the components to generate cut lines without ever measuring.
Since you mentioned your collector might be too weak I had experimented with the height of the port in the box: cut a elongated hole from top to bottom where you can mount another piece with the port covering the whole hole. Then move this piece up or down until you find the height where you collect the most.
Noticed the diming of the lights when you turned on the dust collection. That means that that there are too much on that line so the wires have difficulty pushing enough Amps. That means that they run a risk of getting too hot during prolonged use at that level. At the moment it's only a problem when the dust collector needs its starting power though it's better to put the dust collector on another fuse than the lights to avoid that issue.
@@3x3CustomTamar An easy and economical (in the monthly bills) fix is change all your bulbs to led's, if you haven't already. One tenth the draw of incandescent and about one fifth the wattage of fluorescent with the same brightness. But, electrician here, he's right about separating the lights. They should be the only thing on their circuit and that's easy to do. That will free up more power for the motors and keep the wiring cooler.
@@3x3CustomTamar I was wondering if the compartment might be to large and that's why there's not enough suction. Or is this just something that in inherent with a router table? Also, I thought it was kind of funny that you used magnets to hold the drawer face but no magnets to keep the door closed. Hmmm? 🤨 Great build, I'm in need of a router table and so far I like this one the best. Of course I will change a few things (I have larger hands) like possibly making the bit trays removable. Might be able to fit 3 per drawer that way. Again, great video and build. Keep up the good work.
Came to comment how well that came out, and kudos etc. Then read the comments. Shouldn't be doing that, it's my own fault. But just to say coming from the UK there is no problem with the way you say "drawer". At least to my ears! Another superb build and given me loads of inspiration so thank you so much! Dom
Love your videos, but this looks just like Jsk-koubous router table 🧐 only noticed because I planned on building it myself 😂. The man deserves his credit
Suggestion: suction intake at bottom rear of router box and door intake at bottom to create airflow across the bottom of the containment box where the heavies land. I love your vids, your one brilliant gal, thanks for the content, admire your drive and work ethic and quality.
And when we drop something, it's "where, the ...., did that just go?" I did this last night with a tiny 2x8mm pin cut from an old drill bit.. Tried to hold with needle-nose pliers when cutting with the grinder, pliers clipped together, pin vanished instantly, didn't even hear it hit the floor as I was wearing earmuffs.. I'll literally NEVER find it.. lol
@@3x3CustomTamar there's a void they fall into.. possibly a different dimension.. All becomes clear after we die, and we get to spend eternity wandering around looking at all the things we lost over our lives.. 😉
@@tree_carcass_mangler ah yes.. the infamous 10mm socket.. can't recall how many of those I've had to buy over the years.. I guess I'll get them all back when I die.. ;) I'll be the Socket King.. ;)
Good job T!! So the dust collection issue underneath is because of the level of your dust port. If you lowered it to the bottom of the router housing it would collect much more of your dust. On the commercial dust boxes the port is usually close to the bottom which allows it to pull the dust down and out, your design is allowing it to pull the dust down but not out! Great project and it has inspired me to want to build one for myself.
What you could do, is put the outlet hole of the dustcollector at the BOTTOM of the cabinet so that even if you get some dust you can just push it in to the outlet hole and it'll get sucked up.
Agreed, the particals my be too heavy to go out the top wall dust collection port. Flip the hole to the bottom and create a slight funnel to reduce the amount of open space. If your motor isn't strong enough you may also have to empty your collection bag/barrel more often.
Just watched the video again. The problem you are having with the dust collection. I believe it would be fixed if you moved the dust collection port to the bottom of the box in the back. You'd have to cut the bottom of the port to get it flush with the bottom, but I believe that will fix the issue.
I really like your design and build of the router table. I also was confused as to what you were talking about at first when you were saying “draws”. When I caught on to what were actually is “drawers”. I started to get a kick out of it. Thanks for the lesson and the laugh.
Great project 👍 I'd recommend upgrading your filter bag for a canister filter. Not only is it better for your lungs, but better performance out of the system. Another power increase you could gain is if you run pvc pipe as far as you can, and only use flex hose as short as necessary. Check out Stumpy on RU-vid, he has a great deal of detail about this. But maybe after a move? 😉 Love the remote on the cable! Got a link by any chance?
Those remote boxes burn out quick. I went through two 3 packs already then realized never turn it on and off right away. Wait a about 10sec b4 turning it on again
Did your family members take exception to your “no visibility” policy - at least partly? And as others have noted, Guinness may be contacting you for the most uses of “drawer” per minute as revenge in a video. Congratulations on your FWW article.
Seen a video that the guy had the same issue as you do with the dust in the bottom ,he put holes in the back of the cabinet 5 holes about 1 1/2 holes instead of the door you had put slots in your door . His method he made no holes in the door. WHEN he added the holes in the back he had no more dust in his cabinet .also you could add a partial panel in front of the router held by magnets so you have less area to have to remove the dust . It also give you more storage space .love your videos
Nice router cabinet Tamar.👌 Dust collection solution, Milescraft 1501 Dust Router Collection, actually there are several types and brands with some being kits and others as individual pieces, most are less than $100. Basically what you need is a collection cup that fits the underside of the table to coral the dust and chips that are drawn down because of the router motor and bit. Most better quality collection systems have a dual collector setup for top and bottom. 😎 You could make a small triangle pocket on the underside of the table, between the motor head collar and use a plumbing "T" to adapt both collection ports into one common point. Another important factor is to reduce the hose size from that large volume low flow to a typical shop vac size to increase your suction power and speed of airflow for better results.😉 One potential problem with the pocket hole method is the floor plate or bottom of the cabinet, all sides, fronts and backs should always be attached to the top surface because it is the foundation of the cabinet. Depending on how heavy your work will be it may never be an issue, but plywood end grain is not very strong against downward force. If a problem does develop you could easily add a second bottom across the whole cabinet or simply add two solid board runners under the caster wheels and sides of the cabinet to support the whole unit. I have used pocket holes for drop floor cabinets to hide the casters without a skirt seam on the outer finish surface, but the floor is always reinforced with support blocks and is inset into a dado groove along with those pocket screws.😜 Well done!👍 What finish are you going to use on the draw fronts?😁
nice work . i suggest you look at the position of the vents again. i believe the holes in the router door would work better at the bottom to prevent dust from settling there.
I really value your channel on RU-vid! It's one of the few that I feel like I can come to for real pointers and advice. Thanks, for putting yourself out there for all of us plebs, Tamar!
I ALWAYS learn something new from your videos. I especially like your "hack" solutions to problems you encounter along the way - very inspiring! Sincere thanks!
My guess on the dust collection issue in the main box. It's basically acting like a cyclonic separator. Dust shoots down and then has to change direction and go back upwards to the exit hose. I have a gut feel it would collect more if the hose were at the bottom of the box so it doesn't have to fight gravity so much. Thanks for the build video. Cheers.
Thank you I bought the router table cabinet plan, and the portable work bench got my attention so grabbed that one too. I have watched several of your postings. I just manufactured 8 kitchen cabinet doors and my floppy router table annoyed me I was just going to build one but thanks to you I don't have to draw the plans. Love your guitars I saw in one of your videos, haha I have 5 guitars not allowed to buy more. I built one of those guitar racks but realizing in MA. unless I was running a humidifier/ dehumidifier my guitars needed attention so they are back in their cases with built in humidity meters.. Enough said HaHA Thanks again😎
The remote control for the dust collector is the best thing ever! I have a "Y" attachment to my Harbor freight desk collector. One goes to the table saw, and the other goes to a hose that I can connect to any other thing in the shop. I ended up getting a truck filter because it was less expensive than the canister filters designed for it. It makes a big difference in the dust around the shop. Like $75 versus $250. I just hold it on with a tie down. Food for thought. Great video as usual.
I enjoy how you show the little flaws and your effort in fixes. Trial and error is how we learn and we need our mentors to show us that these things happen. 👍👍👍
Tamer I see a few mods you need to do inside your router box you need to put a catch board below the router at a 45 degrees.Also move your vacuum port to the bottom to collect the dust. You plexiglass door needs to be min 1/4 thick and you should use only lexan. Lexan will not break if something should hit it, If it is thick enough it can handle a severe impact without breaking. Lexan is the bullet proof material used in banks. Also make sure your router motor has good cross air flow to stay cool. I have a few more modifications To share will put them in later.
I think you read my mind Tamar. This video came out just in time for me to stop planning my own version of a router table and just use yours. Thanks, you rock!
Awesome build Tamar! I'm sure lots of other folks mentioned this, but I had the same issue on my table and found that moving the dust port closer to the bottom of helps as well as putting in mitered pieces to help direct the dust towards to port :)
I know this video is three years old, so you may not see this, but could you do a video about the router bits a new woodworker actually needs to invest in when getting started for the best utility in their shop?
Tamar, one of the FEW creators who I will press the Like button BEFORE I even watch the video.... I just know its gonna be good, never been disappointed!
You might put a piece of that 1/4” play inside the router compartment up horizontally as high as you can get it but not closing off the router breathing. Make it like a sliding horizontal panel that can come out easily “if” you need to remove the router. No need to have that big router compartment which will work accumulate sawdust (as it’s doing now). The vents you cut in the acrylic door were a good idea which will keep the router cool with circulated air.
Great build, Tamar. I attached a rope with a strong magnet to my dust collector remote and hang it from the ceiling of my shop. It makes it easy to find and move around, if you have some metal on the ceiling. Use it in good health!
I love the video, With the dust in the bottom of the cabinet, with our dust box at work that I made for our table router in a high school, I have the 4” port at the bottom and also made the floor slope to the port from the front and the sides, I made our floor out of galvanised sheet metal. I know our dust unit is a huge one at work, but kids never close a dust gate, so all of them are open, which makes it very inefficient for the size of the machine. But our dust box is empty all the time. Maybe try moving the port to the bottom and place a sloping piece of ply in there and see if it makes a difference.
That was a brilliant tuition, lots of great tips, it looks fabulous too. The highest production values, I particularly enjoyed where you dramatically slowed down the speed whilst reaching for the screws.
This is brilliant, so much more space you have there! My ‘workshop’ is crammed into a 6x12 shed, and half of that is storage!! Thank you yet again for sharing
"I literally JUST had it" is a constant mantra in my shop. I have eliminated it related to tape measures by buying a handful of moderately inexpensive versions that are resident in different areas of the shop. this also eliminates the lost tape when someone else in the household borrows it (and of course leaves it). oh yeah - this is a fantastic project. my mind is churning some designs for mine now.
Your router table i took a fish tank base somone had put in the trash it was metal changed it around some built a box to catch dust out of 1/4" put a plug in the bottom, added a hose connector for dust collection to the bottom, you really don't need anything on the fence the vacume pulls it all out from the bottom. Now I have to make draws for it to hold my router tools and bits. The top is 40" wide by 28" deep 1" thick with a jessem router lift and I added t track for the fence over fence t track for my jessem stock guides and woodpeckers combo t track miter track for a cross cut sled or coping ends. I just need to come up with a jig to stand parts on end to do lock miter joints. If I get it right I can take a 4/4 board and make a endless grain joint on 3 sides of a wall shelf i can add French cleats to so the shelf floats on the wall with nothing holding it on you can see. 5 sides should match as grain is considered. That means I need to make the frt also.
During the Green Chef ad I noticed you show your kid how to hold the zucchini so they don't chop their fingers off. Yay for you! I had to learn from TV how to hold and cut food correctly/safely.
👍I LOVE it. This summer, my health declined, but with cooler weather & a new Kreg Foreman on the way I plan to get building this Fall. My tools are kept inside and carried outside when I build. Not enough good health days have been lining up with good weather days. So, we plan to make room inside for smaller projects before winter. I will need dust solutions. I think your cabinet performed great. Still, I'm not surprised you are striving for perfection; you always share your oops & needed improvements with your audience. I see suggestions in the comments, so, I guess those folks agree that dust collection could be better... Well, I must be easier to please, I was very impressed! The top was spotless and only a teeny bit of saw dust down below. I have a Woodcraft 50 or so miles away and your cut-list looks like much can be broken down in store from economic plywood. Those repeat grain patterned boards can be bothersome, but it looks awesome the way you matched it up on the drawers! I WILL watch your follow up video. But then I am headed to your website to buy these cabinet plans. ~♿Lisa🔨 PS- a question: have you ever cut the grooves for your drawer bottoms into longer boards, before cross cutting it into sides, front & back? I'll be using a hand held router w/straight edge & hoping to save some effort? I've never seen this done on YT; so I'm worried there's a reason for that, a problem I haven't thought of? Thanks.
On the acrylic door add a little metal rectangle to top and bottom, then a magnetic stop at each point. Solves the issues and looks better than the wood scrap stops.
Nice design! I made my router table out of MDF. For the dust collection, I went through a couple of revs but settled on a cool design. I made the cabinet space below the router with a sloped bottom made out of 1/4" melamine. Then I put the dust port at the bottom end of the slope. Now the dust just slides down to the port. I also made the door seal tight so the vacuum pulls more air around the bit and router. Really enjoy you channel - lots of good jigs and techniques.
Suggest moving the suction outlet to the bottom of the router bay so that you can suck out the heavy (gravity) particles which will form at the bottom. Nice router table - keep up the good work
Tamar, I think you are on the right path with your acrylic door. Try inverting it 180, so the top is the bottom, then those slats may create a more updraft airflow toward your collector.
I'm absolutely loving your videos. I'm just looking into starting this hobby; I don't even have a circular saw and I'm learning so much. This is really cool
Really like your color scheme - black carcass and unpainted "draw" fronts. Also really like your groove-and-dado-trapped "draw" bottoms with pocket-hole joinery - that combination is a favorite technique of mine as well for shop fixtures including similarly trapped cabinet backs. Even the shorter "draw" back - just like traditional "draw" construction with a solid wood bottom and dovetails to join the sides and back. My shop (garage) lights dim when I start up my tablesaw; my practice is to only run the table saw with the lights off on that circuit, meaning in daylight with my garage door open. Here in the Houston TX area I can usually get away with that year-round. Really nice build and very helpful to a wanna-be-weekend-warrior like me.
