Run with choke or it dies 

You are welcome!

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Glad to help

Great news. Thanks for letting everyone know it worked for you

Awesome..

That's awesome! Glad you found that video and glad it helped you out! It's amazing how some of these videos help so many people

Let us know how it works out!

Sounds great! Be sure to take a minute and post back so others can know the outcome!

@@AtlastaFarM hey, well I took the carburetor apart, after I tried your tip. Someone had it apart and broke the venture, and the spring is missing off the float. They were running it with no filter in the fuel system anywhere..carb was full of, dirt, water, and rust. It's a true testament how dependable these little tractors are that it ran at all. I am purchasing a new carburetor..

HAHA.. Might be surprised how often we deal with that.

@@AtlastaFarM put the new carb on with a in-line fuel filter, I have a new sediment bowl ordered also but couldn't wait to try the carb. Fired right up and runs good.

HAHA Definitely not expecting the "celebrity" status! Thanks for the awesome remarks! We do have quite a few episodes in progress that will answer a lot of those questions you asked. They were scheduled to be done a long time ago, unfortunately things have been happening to delay us one after the other. With all the ridiculous things that have happened, the joke around here has been that we should just turn this into a reality show! LOL Six months of on and off phone service and internet problems, hurricanes, rain for 40 days and nights and on and on...

Did it work?

@@AtlastaFarM I will get back with you as soon as I get the new spark plugs. Should be in any day. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for your help!

When this happens... try immediately removing the fuel tank cap.. pay attention to any sounds like pressure relieving or suction sounds like opening a soft drink.. Even if you dont hear any of these noises.. try to restart with the cap removed . Also pay attention to the fuel level in the sediment bowl assembly. It is very possible that the nut is too tight.. especially on newer replacement bowls. People will over tighten them to stop a slow drip at the bowl.. and that will actually deform the assembly where it will not flow at full volume. If the second issue is the problem ,, the fix is to replace the gasket in the bowl assembly with a CORK version!! Either make your own from cork sheets or can be ordered pre-made through amazon etc..

Sounds like restricted fuel flow

1 and 1/2 turns is the initial setting. If you need to adjust beyond that I would recommend one half turn then test. It really depends on how long your screw is to how far you can turn it out I would say if you go more than three full turns past the initial 1.5 setting then there may be another underlying issue.

@@AtlastaFarM gotcha. Yea i was just using that as an example. But I've been leary to go even to 2 full turns out. But I'm thinking it's definitely needing more fuel since everything else seems to work good under regular use. Thanks

correct. turn the screw until it is seated.. (do not tighten it!!, just until it stops / bottoms out) that is the starting point

From the way you worded the question, I am guessing it DOES fill while Starting the engine? If this is the case then most likely the bowl is too tight. These things are fickle.. it seems putting them too tight not only risks cracking the bowl.. but can also flex or warp the valve body just enough to prevent flow. We have fought this for years.. we loosen the bowl to get flow, but then it leaks... so we gradually tighten it to stop the leak, but then we're back to what you described.. no flow. So what we have found to be the culprit, is the seal. The rubber/viton seals are horrid.. going back to a proper cork or cork/rubber mix seal works outstanding. It does not need to be tight to properly seal, not warping the valve, allowing flow without leaks. You can make your own. sheets of cork material are sold at any auto-parts store. (and its fairly cheap) *** If you go this route, make sure you get thick enough material! Measurements are all over the map, so the easiest example I could give would be material that is near or just over he thickness of two credit cards/id etc. It does not have to be exact! But too thin will not compress enough and too thick may not fit. (about 3mm or 1/8")

M&MS CLASSIC TRACTOR 8

The smaller screw is the "fine adjustment" or Mixture screw. There is no definite set point for all machines as some wear and tear on the carb and engine makes a difference in the final adjustment... but a start point is 1+1/2 turns out

If making the adjustment described in this video did not help.. then I would expect there is a restriction somewhere. Try taking the fuel line loose from the carb and opening the valve. Have a catch can ready for the gas. It should flow like a drunk on dollar draft night.... if it dribbles like an old man then start here..... I would start with the sediment bowl (expecially inside the tank) take a light and look through the filler hole . you should be able to see the tube from the sediment bowl sticking up.. most likely you have something floating around it blocking the flow. Next would be the screen in the sediment bowl itself and the valve. just keep moving down from there. I have seen people add those cheap lawnmower filters in the line, and even brand new ones have been too restrictive. Worst case is a clog in the fuel line, a kink, or the float in the carb is set too low

Also if you have access to an air compressor.... I have used an airgun an blown back through the line (carb end) then checked the flow. Be sure to remove the fuel filler cap for this... or it will pressurize the tank. This helps to diagnose if there is a restriction up top

@@AtlastaFarM ok I did check fuel flow as I didn't know what it should look like it was coming out in a slow stream so I'm gonna replace the fuel filter and see how that does and im gonna say screw it and use gasket maker for the glass bowl as for us and we do have a commercial air compressor but at the main shop on the farm where the tractors not at I may be able to throw the gas air compressor in my truck and bring it but I will try the fuel filter first

A few things can cause this. First would be Spark plugs, and possibly even coil (not very common but can happen) Try 216 Autolite plug with .020 gap. Also make sure your point gap is between .020-.025.

Think your on the right track however try this before going further!! .... Start the tractor and let it idle... while running, disconnect the battery by removing a cable(doesnt matter which one) If the tractor shuts off then do this next.... Same as before but running at about half throttle, then disconnect battery. If it shuts down then you have charging issue. Either Alt/Gen (most likely regulator). Whats happening is your ignition is draining the battery. Once is too weak to make coil spark, the tractor shuts down.. but the battery is still good enough to recover on its own. Also make sure your polarity is right!! 6volt (+ goes to chassis ground) 12v (- to ground) and at ignition coil, 6v(+side to distributor) 12 (-side to distributor)

Oh ok, well the battery problem may be the issue then because its a very week battery that was in this tractor for many years, i rescued this tractor, it sat nearly 40+ yrs without being run or just started and i got it running but the tractor will crank a very short time before its dead and i have to charge the battery, so could it just be a dead battery ? it doesnt take much to get started but if i do have trouble the battery is dead in just 20-30 seconds of constant cranking.

It was an old battery to begin with but good enough to start the tractor

ok so to figure out which model by engine.... look on the left side (left as sitting in seat). Near the bottom of the engine block where it meats the oil pan... you will see some large raised letters and numbers cast into the block. They will start with the letter "Z". If it says Z120 then TO20... if says Z129 then TO30. Whichever model it is wont matter for your issue though. Sounds like a base timing issue. Adjusted through the distributor. Two ways the distributor is locked into position.. Most common is a band using a slotted screw. loosen this screw only enough to where you can turn the distributor by hand.... next with the engine running at about half throttle.. gradually turn the distributor until the engine seems to speed up and start to sputter. When you hit that point turn the distributor back the opposite way until it just stops sputtering and tighten the slotted screw down. This will be setting you timing at max advance for your power band and is the best setting for mid to high RPM requirements especially for PTO work. There is a method for more low end or low rpm power for more stationary equipment like saws etc. This would be the first setting to make. If it does not work, let us know and we will move to the next item

@@AtlastaFarM Wow all this time i thought i had a To20 but the engine says z129 lol just replaced my carb and it idles way to fast with it idk how to adjust carb

@@hectorgarza228 If idle is the only issue then turn screw located on throttle lever. Counter clockwise for slower. (screw is ON the lever NOT the two in the body of the carb!) The screw may be a slotted screw, but sometimes it could be a wingnut... either way, counter clockwise to slow idle

@@AtlastaFarM thanks for the reply but i just realized i think its the governor i disconnected the rod and the idle came right down after having messed with all the other adjustment screws on carb 😕 its my first tractor now i have to adjust governor and carb screws lol

No... Vapor lock is the "Boiling" of the fuel in the line or carburetor bowl.. think old school science class.. like a pressure cooker... as the temperature of the liquid rises-- so does the pressure.. eventually the pressure will be high enough to prevent the liquid from flowing as it should. Older carbureted cars would have this issue in summer days in hot climates sitting at long stoplights or idle long periods.. and would start to run rough or skip etc... would have to turn them off for a while to cool down then they would run correctly again.

@MMSAGRIBUSINESS thanks so much for responding! I posted this video in need of help and a couple ppl suggested my issue is vapor lock. Would you agree? ru-vid.comlzDO5aAWQ34?si=4DQh8ktpq8Fn9jPc

This actually sounds ignition related!! Of course Im not there, so I am going by what I see and hear.. Almost like an ignition coil getting hot and failing.,.. Does this tractor have the big square coil on the front of the engine? or is the distributor on the side of the engine. Also.. will it restart and run after a few minutes or maybe an hour..?? ( run until it huckups again?) and just for giggles... try running without the fuel cap on... just to make sure its not creating a vacuum in the tank .

Sorry for the delay, your comment / question was missed. The other issues are: warped mating surfaces in the carburetor itself (or air leaks in the intake) and a restriction in fuel flow (most commonly at the sediment bowl)

See our video here for the warped carb : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5BowYRFnDcU.html