Dude straight up man! Such straight to the point. Like he stabs you with strong points picks out on the what if this or that and he’s like I got that covered for you doubtful minds. So many facts!🎉
@@freedomworx It honestly reminds me of the golden age of Discovery Channel when they had shows like Mythbusters. Those shows got so many people into doing proper science with writing results and minimizing variables. You have them to thank for how people pick on your variable control.
@@ruediix it’s a good point. Everyone who ever watched Mythbusters or a Gale Banks RU-vid video, is now a licensed Professional Engineer or applied physicist 😂
@@freedomworx love you technical skills and your humour. The bit that really got me was :where’s my balls?there they are!I had to borrow them off my wife.!😂
Had an old beat up and battered maverick back in the 80's. The engine was completely worn out and burned/leaked more oil than the exxon valdez. I used to drain 5 gallons at a time of waste oil out of the tank at work and carry it around for use in that old maverick. That waste tank had a mixture of used motor oil, auto trans fluid, gear oil, brake fluid etc etc....you name it and it was probably in there. I ran that old worn out maverick for several years entirely on what came out of that waste tank. Never had a single mechanical engine failure and the old gal was still running when i sold it after 350 thousand miles. Sometimes you gotta' do what you gotta' do to keep things rolling down the road a bit longer. That old maverick was a prime example of use what you can afford and hope it works out, fortunately it did
I had a 77 Chevrolet Vega that leaked & used oil & I did the same thing using used oil and kept 2 spare gallon milk jugs in the back of the car to add oil to the engine once it got low on oil and the oil light coming on . I bought that car for 50.00 & had it for 6 months as my daily driver and it was the GT model with the hatch back but the interior was like brand new but I had a friend who asked me if I could take him to North mpls to go get his tool box from his ex girlfriends place which we did & this tool box filled the entire back of the car up to a point that hatch almost couldn't close lol so we take off heading back to East Bethel MN where we lived at the time & were cruising down 94 & all of a sudden the car felt unstable at the rear when taking corners so we get back to his place he unloads the tool box I go home and look under the car & one of the control arms had rotted through on the body and broke off where the mount was on the body so not worth fixing it . I ended up calling a local scrap yard and I knew one of the counter people that was a brother of a high school friend of mine and asked him how much for the car minus the Saginaw 4 SPD trans and he told me 100.00 cash so I pulled the trans out of it and towed the car to the bone yard and got paid for it lol selling it for more that what I paid for it plus keeping the transmission out of it that eventually went into a 70 Elcamino I had that I was going to do a swap from a automatic to a 4 SPD manual. Now that I think of it I don't think the bone yard by me now in Wisconsin where I live now would pay that much for a mid sized car hardly especially if you cut the cats off of it because scrap iron is so low now so for me getting that 100.00 way back then for a crappy rusted out Vega was a damn good price 😂.
Man I had a 89 mustang lx 5.0 convertible and used to do this at a harley shop, man that was a bunch of different shit, sometimes smells like sulfur and knew it probably wasn't good but never had any problems
I think they intentionally made the SAE gear oil numbers double engine oil values so they were not easily mixed up. Aircraft engine oils are also double.
Exactly The AeroShell 100 is the same viscosity as a SAE50 car oil Aeroshell 80 is SAE 40. But gear oil is by ISO. SAE 50 equals an ISO 220. The double numbers comes from the fact the Gear oils viscosity ate given at 40C and in car engine oils the straight viscosity is given at 100C. Now multigrade Gear oils are a different methodology.
I had a 250 I-6 Chevy in a '63 wagon, It had been owned since new by a taxi driver who drove it back and forth, repeatedly, every year to Florida from Missouri.. The rest of the time, he was using it as a taxi.. When he gave it to me, it had 350,000 miles on it, and he showed me the records. The heads had never been off, and the motor was working hard to make 75 psi in 5 cylinders and 95 in one. In the summer, it would start and run just fine, though it was pretty gutless and to say it smoked was understating things a bit. Being broke didn't leave me any choices,(this was 1985), so I pulled the pan and filter and refilled with 2 qts of Harley Davidson 80-90, a qt. of Motor Honey and topped off with SAE 50. That pulled the pressure up and got it humming. It felt brand new until things heated up and thinned things out a bit but it was still a lot better than when I got it. When I sold it, I included the log book and told them what I had done, didn't BS the fella none. That money got me to Fla. where I got decent work.
We ran rural route newspapers back in the early 90s. About 210 miles a day. Those cars would burn out there rings within 3 months. We dump the thicks gear oil in them it smoke like crazy for about 100 miles. After about 200 miles we drain the gear oil and fill it full oil it last another 3 months.
If i dont fill it on my dmax ute the oil light stays on for an unsettling amount of time But if i fill it. Well it unfills when its turned on its side. I always do it on EJ
Gear oil and motor oil use different ratings. 80w90/75w90gear oil is the same viscosity as sae40 to sae50 motor oil at temp. 75w140 will be around sae60 motor oil at temp. Edit:"I need to watch more than half way through before I comment".
@@jlsrr2577when I took my Honda manual trans oil out of Civic and replaced it with 75w90 from Motul, it acted way slower and more protective. Yes the Honda fluid is lite but I no likey!!
@@freedomworx I guess it's 100% true because they still feed the algorithm 🤔Just as we usually wish actors to "break a leg" I suppose I should wish you to be hated 😅
12:50 Conversely, if during said zombie apocalypse you lose the gear oil out of a differential or other driveline module, you can use an SAE 60 or 20W-50 to get you home safely.
@@freedomworx ha!! I did it... bonehead me checked the diff oil and left the plug out.. nicel ong roadtrip... I sort of smelled that warm geary oil smell but you know I just cvhecked it.. i musta got some on the exhaust.. an amazing amount of gear oil spreays out the plug.. enough it was really really low when i stopped noticing a smoke cloud in the headlights behind me way down the road.. poured some 15W40 rotella diesel oil in (its an IH diesel if it aint leakin its empty so always carry engine oil).. and drove on.. after a few hundred miles I got to my desitnation and next day changed out the oil for gear oil again.. 7 years later.. same rear diff and no issues.. P.S. amazingly the plug was stil;l laying up in the indent on the frame where i had left it.. now THAT was luck
Richard did multiple dyno runs with all different oil weights. The trend was that thin oil provided less drag on the crank to make more horsepower. In his test 20-50 made the most power because piston ring seal with thick oil made more power and over came crank splash
As an upstart auto fart in about 1966 an old man with a model T and was it a Ford A was changing oil. It dangled like mamas dipetydoo. He told me whenever she gets to a smokin just up the oil tenerso. He was putting in 50 weight! Lol. My engines never blow either. 20w50 max in big engines. With 300,000 or so. I go 10w40 in 200,000 mile rigs. My lil sissypoo just got 5w30 syn with sooty exhaust at 33,000 miles on 0w20 from stealership. A few thousand miles and tail pipe is silver shiny now! Lucas gas conditioner in also! Mileage went up 3.5 mpg! Try it kidderz! Lol
Back in the early 90s I got ahold of a 2.8 v6 fiero that had some very evident low end knock. I ran 80/90 gear oil to quiet the knock and drove it this way for 3 years.
Did that with old Austin mini in 80's , rumbling crank and oil light on at idle ,sounded great with really thick gear oil from work , oil light stayed off ran it all summer
The guy who built the gearbox on my race car recommends 10w40 and the owners manual says 75w80. Never understood why but now I do. It’s similar when cold but thinner (and therefore there will be less losses) when warm. Changing it every few races means was strongly suggested too.
A fairly common thing for enthusiasts of old 2 stroke motorcycles like myself is to run 75w90 gear oil in the gearbox as opposed to the motor oil that's typically specified. It's understood to be better suited for both the gears and the clutches, but you can't typically get away with that on 4 strokes, where the gearbox and clutch usually share the oil with the engine.
From working on my '98 Jeep XJ, it's stuck in my head that 75w-85/90 is ~10W-30 (viscosity, not chemistry). This entire video reinforces that. Awesome.
It might not be such a good idea with newer engines but old ones nearing the end of their service life tend to not have any issues with it. I've run many with gear oil and it worked well.
Heads up: pointing your IR thermometer at the graduated cylinders didn't tell you the oil temperature, it told you the glass temperature. Glass is transparent to visible light, but the overwhelming majority of glasses and glass-alikes (acrylic, plexi, etc.) are opaque to infrared. Now, since both the glass and oil were likely in the same room overnight, you did get an accurate reading of the temperature of the oil, but only by chance.
Great explanation of why gear lube smells so bad! I first started using gear lube in about 1987, in outboard boat motors, and always wondered why it smells so different (and nauseating), compared to motor oil. Thanks!
Love your explanations. Any chance of going over those 'tuner chip' mods? Or other power adding things like 'performance' enhancing air filters. Also I found a Donaldson filter would fit my jeep and it's supposed to be a lifetime filter. Thought you might like that one.
I’ve got some performance stuff coming up. I’ll say this about performance air filters. Unless you are making big power, in most cases, you are just letting my contaminants through the filter without realizing any performance gain. Especially is diesel applications, the factory air filter will filter better and flow more than enough to make more horsepower than the other fueling and air components can support.
I own a 1998 Dodge 2500 with the 24 valve Cummins diesel, and the NVG-4500 5 speed manual transmission. This transmission requires a very specific lubricant, Castrol Syntorq 75W85 GL4, probably the same or very similar to what you used in this video. I was very surprised at how thin this product was, because in the older Ford pickups I owned in the 1970's and 80's, with the Borg-Warner T-18, the oil used was 90W-140 (also used in most outboard boat motor lower ends), and that lube pours like molasses. But the Syntorque does it's job: I've towed an 8,500 pound boat and trailer almost 10,000 miles on several long road trips, and the transmission still works like new at 106,000 miles. The reason that newer vehicles with manual transmissions use the thin oil, is that it produces less fuel-robbing friction, and it has special additives that greatly increase it's ability to pull heat away from the gears and synchronizers, and transfer that heat to the atmosphere through the case (especially with aluminum transmission housings). This is especially a valuable feature in heavy-duty truck transmissions, where internal heating while towing heavy trailers can be a problem.
And you for sure fill the filter before installing. If it happens to be an up and down facing filter then you'd be crazy not to. And I'm with you on the smell of rear end lube 😅 I did NOT know that they used different scales!
The viscosity rates are different between gear and engine oil ,but gear oil has additives for high load and shearing while engine oil has more detergents and acid neutralizers for the combustion gasses,
You should apply for a science grant from the U.S. Government. Now that would be funny! P.S. Try some aviation oil. Maybe it will make you go faster and do the Dukes of Hazard thing better.
The bypass valve in the oil pump will limit the pressure, also I had an early Chevy 283 that was extremely loose/worn that I used 90 weight gear oil to get any oil pressure, worked alright
It will limit the oil pressure if it get high enough (Generally 55-70 PSI in a SBC). It didn't get high enough to have an effect on this test. The 75W-85 I put in the engine was actually thinner than the 20W-50 that was in the engine. The pressure was actually lower.
Watching this video just waiting to jump all over you .. but you covered it all and got it right. As for prefill or not - I doubt anyone will ever agree, and either way, the difference over a few hundred thousand miles with a million variables between drivers would never result in anything possible to test in a lab. My rule is that if the filter is vertical, prefill .. if it's horizontal .. then just pour a half quart in the damned garden first off and save the hassle. Even a fresh rebuild will have enough assembly lube .. although I always was one for (on old school plants) making a tool from a dead distributor to spin up the oil pump before initial fire.
Very good demonstration! I kept imagining I was smelling gear oil while watching this... no lie! It's one of those odors you just can't not recall when you think about it. One more interesting thing about the dinosaur butt extreme pressure additives in GL-5 (and maybe other) gear oils is this. They are engineered to protect against rolling friction such as gear teeth in mesh, or ball and roller bearings. They can cause rapid chemical wear to things which encounter sliding friction, such as camshaft lobes and followers. The engine bearings have a hydrodynamic film which separates the bearings and journals so that should be fine. But I would be concerned about GL5 additives in a flat-tappet cam engine. I haven't seen damaged engine parts from this happening so I don't want to speculate. I have, however, seen the brass worm teeth disappear in an electric motor gear reducer because of using GL-5 where a different lubricant was specified.
Yeah, it's certainly not ideal in an engine. I took it out of the engine immediately after shooting the video. It does have a flat tappet cam in it. I have to use a GL-4 in the SM465 trans in this truck. Those old synchros don't like the sulfur. 👍
I'd also worry about the extreme pressure additives in gear oil reacting with the different metals used in engine bearings. I know the additives used to meet the GL5 spec can damage the yellow metals used in transmission sychro rings, which is important knowledge when filling manual transmission in older vehicles (I like Red Line manual transmission fluid if anyone needs a suggestion).
I started being a mechanic in 1968 when I was a kid😅 I've got a 2000 Buick where's the 3.8 it has digital gauge monitors it gets 65 lb oil pressure with 1040 because it's got a 160,000 Mi on it I wanted to protect the engine I switched to 10:30 because of friction and I wanted mileage I pumped up the tires to 40 lbs I now get 45 lb of pressure when it's cold and I get 40 down the highway it lost 20 lb pressure changing oil to a thinner oil but it got 65 lbs with 1040 with 160,000 Mi it runs like a new car
Currently have gear oil in my 87 camry as engine oil.....😂 I would be worried but she leaks so much out it'll work itself out. I got this car when i was 14, I'm 30 now. She also runs just fine on bar and chain oil. No crazy blow by or anything, but again this thing leaks so much oil out it's hard to say anything. 😂
@@freedomworx would love to see y'all guys do a collab but peg would have to wear a horse head and aVe would only show his hands and have a McMaster Carr book over his face😂
Gear oil used back in the days of the Ford model T was 500 weight. The stuff was like heavy soap or heary grease. That would damage the engine for sure. Nice video Fella too. vf
My honda roto tiller craves 10w30 or 30 weight oil in engine and transgagetry! Whodah thot??? Used to be 75 gear oil in 1970. And 30/40 sae in engine then too. Gunna miss dinobuttz!
Very nice --- I was in lubrication business for years >>>and did not know > never sold auto motive oil ever ;-0 Greetings from Australia -Thank you (in metric) Cheers (imperial)
Ive had my 68 ford pickup 352 fe engine ..im always asked what oil do you run i say..o i l.....ive got 400 000 miles on it owned it forty years .even canola oil french fry grease ..its got a leak anyway..love the video
I don't think running it for such a small period will trash the engine. Running it longer would be required to show why you don't want to do this unless you went with a thicker gear oil. Gear oil behaves differently under the extreme high heat inside of an engine rather than in the gear chambers it's designed to run in. Obviously, this means it will not behave as the manufacturer intended. Add to that the different contaminates it faces, it clearly isn't fully compatible. It is interesting to see the results, and shows that the lowest thickness gear oil is much thinner than you would expect. p.s. You might want to do some rust treatment on that undercarriage to halt that rust pitting. Someone needs to invent a nice rust dissolving primer and a paired heavy enamel for that. It would likely double the life span of mufflers and such, while making the main undercarriage and frame last 10 times as long. For people that like shiny they should make one that can go over plating (chrome, nickle or otherwise.)
All your videos are awesome, you should really make more of them / put them out on a more regular basis. Oh, and do a build series on Cummins swapping the Excursion. …
I appreciate the kind words. I wish I had more time to do more videos. But between my day job and family, I’m stretched pretty thin. I’m actually about to start a 12 valve build and put it in my Service Truck for Drag and Drive events. Already have a stack of parts, so stay tuned 👍
Over time the blow-by and positive crank-case ventilation allows a little bit of oil into the combustion chamber and then (burnt) into the exhaust. The additives in the gearbox oil are likely to prematurely age the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter in the exhaust system of a recent car. These are expensive to replace.
@1:24 was feeling uncomfortable while yous talking a boot, that butt stuff while holding that thing. Gave me flash backs to when my doctor performed a prostate exam using a dental tool that looked just like that.
I had a car BURN ALOT OF OIL so I add gear lub , the great thing it did anyone tail gating just rev up engine big puff smoke & never tail-gated me again LOL
That's what I did to just get us buy...??? Rodge was on my Rupp, his foot got caught on a footpeg 🤔 and he did this Cirle Dace in the Middle of the Road... 🤔
Yup. Some years of 80s and 90s honda even specify using engine oil for the manual transmission. Do not do this, it will halve the life of your trans, but will get you home.
From experience…….if you run the gear oil in engine all summer, when you pull the pan you will find what looks like ball bearings in it. The sulfur begins to separate from the oil and they form into little balls……and yes the filter will be full of sludge.
As you said at 13:18 i am curios how long a engine will last if you didnt torque the heads down properly as in not specific pattern and just hit em with the old ugga dugga
I had an old 4.3 V6 that I would run four quarts of 20w50, and one quart of 85w140 just so it would have 5lbs of oil pressure at idle. It eventually got to where I ran two quarts of gear oil before I finally replaced the engine. Also had a slant six that was pretty much the same way. I had run both engines like that for several years, never had any issues with them. Other than being old, worn out engines that didn't make any power or oil pressure, that is.
