www.vwvintageparts.com/ Here is the website for eddy and daves garage. Eddy can give you package deals on most brands of parts. He also Se habla Espanol.
dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you are bored like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my brother lately :)
Mike, Your approach to your VW refurbishments is refreshing and very PRAGMATIC. Your 67 Westy is not overdone/over the top, yet it is FANTASTIC. Anyone with some basic skills and desire can do what you’ve done and not go broke to build their dream vehicle by following your wisdom here. Your bus is beautiful, and if I hadn’t seen the video, I wouldn’t have ever guessed that it was left for dead. It simply looks like it’s been driven and enjoyed, and in a garage it’s entire life. It doesn’t look “over restored” ( like some 100K plus shop build) yet it is TOP NOTCH. I don’t know how else to explain it, but you did an amazing job. I’d kill to be a passenger for the day, much less own it. I appreciate you sharing all of your wisdom and skills with us !!! Stay safe!
Mike, I really enjoy watching your bodywork and painting videos. Lots of great information that I've found very helpful. Thanks and please keep them coming
I will try to get my daughter to put some photos of the front floor I made with the Maytag sides. and the battery trays I made out of the S.S. gas grill lids. it was only 400 series but it will not rust as fast as steel. There is a salvage yard here that sells stuff back to you for 20 cents a pound and when they buy it from you they pay 2 bucks per hundred pounds. What I got once was a back board for a futon it had no rust and was 20 g. and it bended nice I made the under windshield insert. When I did that the one they sold was just about 3/4 inch down the roll . I made it almost to the bottom of the roll. now they make a nice one that goes all the way to the bottom and goes 4 inch up the side post-its nice.
I bought that windshield piece since it looks difficult... rear corners used to be 29 dollars CIP1...you are so right about NOT using the whole repair panel... look you got all the metal in hand...another way to get this done in 4 months...my schedule gets killed wiating for parts from CALI or Canada or ....time to check out Eddy and Dave...thanks
Another great video. I have to replace my rear fender panels because someone cut them before I was born to put big tyres in the back. I was going to cold weld (3M epoxy) them in so I don't have to take out my entire camper interior.
Agreed !!! Most things can be made. Then again - one consider the skill level one is at also. I know I can made various parts myself. Now the window seal edges - I would buy - cause I know when i got ready to install windows - it dont fit right or wind leaks - I would be soooo pissed at myself. But then I can be hard on myself when it comes to mistakes. All in all - very good video. Well covered details !!!
It took me a long time to decide what to do with rust jacking and holes in the rocker panel on my project. Opened rocker up and it’s worse inside than outside. Was thinking about fixing holes, remove heavy rust and painting it with Por15 inside? No patch panels available and sandblasting not really an option
There have never been more repair panel options. Search KlassicFab.com and ClassicSteelBody.com . Not saying it is cheap, but a HUGE amount of metal is available. Things we could only have dreamed of 10/20 or 30 years ago!
SingleCab Steve I agree except my project is a 2003 mercury marauder. I watch this channel cause Mike’s got the experience I don’t have and I learn something every time I watch
choosing your battles?. I know exactly what you mean. I try to avoid removing complete sections that require accuracy and precision. An example would be the top hat floor supports because the cable and shift tubes run through them. That's why its best to replace only the ends that are rotten. Nice vids by the way.
yea he need sthem too ha ha. and he didnt buy it. He just got done off camera cutting another one up and he was pretty burned out. He might still buy that one. we were talking about it.
Of course the other issue is how well the panels fit. I am sure you have experienced the crappy fit issue. You could make all the panels if you have the facilities and skills to do it. How much time and money you put into a project like these is always going to be very personal, which is why a lot of projects don't get finished. Having good metal to weld to is better than trying to weld to old metal.
Hey Mike. I’ll be getting back to my bus this summer. I’ll need to replace the floor and some floor supports. About like this one. I’m wondering if you think it’s necessary to add bracing to prevent warping?
Not usually unless the a pillars have a total disconnect. If somewhere is going to have a disconnect you should brace. typically there is a section of the inner front valance that is still connected to the rest of the body. I usually cut away sections and replace sections so I dont ever have a total disconnect. So like if you cut away seat stands front floors inner valance all 3 layers and front floors you might need to brace. Just remember to leave the heat tube in place and cut that piece behind it out for the front floors. Cut the new floor and work around that heat tube and leave it in place. otherwise you will have lots of problems trying to reinstall that heat tube. If you can save the doglegs....new ones are thinner shape not so great. Buy the lower section if that is all you need
OMG they are super high dollar. I used to build them in the 90s. Back then a Crappy Repop fender was $900 Needed 100 hours of hammer work....Budget builds. was in for a shock. He thought he was buying new fenders. I was commenting Be nice to those because once you see how much they are you will be fixing the ones you have.
