I used Rustoleum yellow on my 1960 Ford pickup about 11 years ago. No clear. The yellow has not faded, dulled yes, but the color is good. Rustoleum orange faded to pink quickly. I used red, orange and yellow flames on my 1939 Ford truck and the orange completely faded away.
It's booming. I'm betting 100k subscribers are just around the corner. If someone wanted to learn how to fix up their Rusted Rides this is the channel to follow.
There’s tons of tractor paint videos on here. I just redone a 1981 c10 short bed 355 sbc cammed engine for my first ever full restore hell first ever anything with a car or truck. I use to pay for it and not want to do it. But the c10 brought it out of me somehow and how I done it in 90 days top to bottom was you tube lol. I mixed some rusoleum tractor paints to get an almost charcoal gray using the Massey gray and some rust oleum black n whites I had here at home. Didn’t let it flash anywhere near the 12 hours as I read in many post I’d be redoing it all if I went longer. But most vids said 30 min between coats and 1 hour after 3rd go ahead and start clear . Worked out great for me hardly any wet sanding at all. No Runs at all and painted it with Lvlp gun of Amazon and a 12 gallon compressor bahaha. In my front yard even. It’s been 1.5 years now and she still shining great. Actually showed her a few times and have had many questions as to which high end custom shop painted it lol. Actually enjoyed it and will be glad to get to do some more. Except the wife said as much time and money I spent in 90 days if I done it again I better do an rv because I wasn’t coming back home lol. I did paint it two times though because the first time something weird happened. Idk what ya call it but after spraying my color and clear, maybe 26 hours later the whole damn truck changed colors drastically lightened up. Idk if it were my hardener or time of day I painted or maybe even clearing to quickly ? Be glad to know the answer if anyone may have ideas lol . But good intel here with these guys except I’m from Alabama and yall talk weird lmao
A good quality clear-coat and adding hardener to both is really the key to making an alkyd enamel (Rustoleum) paint job hold up. Of course, your climate, how you store your car, and how you use your car will effect how long your paint job will last. Alkyd paints don’t have the UV protection that higher end, modern automotive paints offer. A good clear will somewhat make up for that, however. The bigger issue is that a gallon of Rustoleum isn’t significantly cheaper than the cost of some of the more common, older automotive paint lines available out there and, once you add in the price of hardener and clear that you need to strengthen up the Rustoleum to match the quality of a basic automotive paint, your only real savings might just be measured in convenience (buying your paint at your local hardware or big box store at 9:00 pm on Saturday night) rather than dollars. Rustoleum is likely as good as if not better than some of the cheaper automotive paints (like the quart cans available off the shelve at the box auto parts store) but definitely won’t flow, lay out, or last as well as some high end 2k paints. I say, as long as you at least add tractor paint hardener to alkyd, you’ll come out with some reasonably durable paint. If you only thin it and spray it with no hardener, it will take too long to dry, be too soft once it dries, and really won’t hold up well in “real world” environments so I wouldn’t bother using it unless you really just want some short term color and don’t care about much else.
I used to buy this paint through the Mack Trucks parts department. It was made by Kirker. Was really cheap and held up pretty good. Now all the auto paints I price are crazy expensive. Last time I bought a gallon of Rustoleum it was under 40 bucks
Solid advice. Thank you for putting the pieces together clearly. I am happy to see chemistry in action. Well done. I am saving this lovely information to use on my 86' F-150 project.
I've used the tremclad on an older mazda that the paint was peeling i fixed some rust and fine lined it and left the old top silver and the lower half where it was peeling and had rust i did a black. And yes i did use hardener on it worked like a charm. Like the chanel and the content from your neighbor in Winnipeg😁👍
That's great! Good way of saving money! We've been planning on doing a Mazda on the channel actually. A few things to do first but we really want to try working on a rotary. Tha KS for watching and commenting! 🇨🇦👍
Should caution people that if the clear isn’t shot within that twelve hour window, y’all be waiting like a month for the enamel to fully cure, or “lifting” will result.
I had an old high school locker that I bought and painted with Tremclad about 6 years ago. I stopped using it in the garage and gave it to a friend. It's sits mounted to the underside of a welding truck exposed to the elements, road grime and salt for 4 years now in Alberta for at least 4 years and it still looks like the day I painted it. I didn't even bother with clear since it was gonna be in my garage. Plus it was red, one of the fadiest and likely to oxidise colours there is.
Very impressive! if you know how quick car bodies are rusted here in Alberta due to the absurd amount of salt they put on winter streeets. Not driven during winter is usually top selling over mileage.
It's the two part clear I know I've painted both ways before. Without the two part clear coat it will hold dirt in the paint and paint will rub off with alcohol
Love your channel. It’s just a matter of time and your channel will blow up with subscribers. It’s one of the most real channels out there. There are tons of channels on RU-vid with guys rebuilding cars with the best of equipment and parts where money is no object. You guys rebuild them with basic tools that most people already have and in a cluttered small shop, not an expensive dream shop. I loved how cam said he wasn’t spending $600 a piece for the charger rocker panels and built them out of old metal shelving. Now that’s craftsmanship. My only gripe with your channel is that I’m all caught up with the videos and I have to wait till you make more. lol awesome job. Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much for such a nice comment! We have been very surprised and happy with how fast our channel has grown. We hope it continues, it would be nice to be able to spend more time on the channel and upload more! Thanks again and we will try to keep the videos coming!
They’re Canadian you tit. I hate when people say stuff like faking an accent. If it’s really coming out of your mouth it’s not fake. There is no such thing as a fake accent. The way you talk is how you talk. You can talk any way you want.
The only reason y’all only have 7k subscribers is because people haven’t caught on yet and RU-vid hasn’t given you any push. This channel will blow up at some point. The quality of your videos and content is too good for it not to. Just keep doing what y’all do, it is just a matter of time!
Looks great, I once painted my old Ford Topaz with Tremclad & it lasted longer & better then I thought it would. Did you say that at 10K you'd mail each subscriber a peace of cake? Good, I love cake!
whats the difference between a $300 paint job & $3,000 paint job ???.....museum muscle cars are probably going to get a $3,000 paint job !! .... everything else can get a $300 paint job !!
You really need to discuss what weather it is subjected to and how it is stored when not in use. Im sure its a different story with 30+C days beating down on it, even with the clear being auto grade
We have +30 degrees Celsius in the summer and - 20 Celsius in the winter. Stored outside buy not on the road in the winter...the car sees the same weather, not garage kept and definitely on the road in the winter, but it was just don't this past February.
@@RustedRides I will try to remember - it will be sometime next year. I plan on using the smoke grey with the Van Sickle urethane hardener for gloss and durability
I just got a black Corolla (toyota 203 sadly, not the plain 202) from Virginia. Paint is shot but car is rust free. I’m debating whether to sell cheaper cause of that or try this. Or just use thinned and hardened implement paint with no clear. What do you guys think of implement paint? Ps I’m going to try to make that Autofest. Maybe in the 50 Chevy but probly in something JDM instead
If you are just planning on selling it, you could skip the clear as it will look good at sale time. But might feel bad if it fades fast for the buyer? It's also a good opportunity just to try it out doing it with clear. Chance to practice so when you end up doing something you are keeping then you've already tried it. Even if you don't do a great job, it will look better than the car does now if you are saying the paint is shot. That's awesome you are planning on coming to Autofest, we are really looking forward to it!
@@RustedRides Yikes I would feel bad if it faded so scratch that. I am going to see if I can find some super cheap single stage 202. I cant imagine its too expensive, and I bet a gallon would cover a corolla that's already black.... so I am really hoping to make that. Wondering if I can squeeze in a family camping trip - have been wanting to check out the peninsula between Huron and the GB. From google maps street view thing it looks like of like the southern shores of Superior, which is amazing. Either way, Lord willing I make it, I will be sure to say hello if I see you guys
Right on! 🇨🇦. Ya we have had good luck and results using this method. The clearcoat we used is called "Rouge". Should be able to get it at a paint and body supply shop. We get ours at Baseline Fender and Supply in Sutton
@Rustedrides fellow Canadian, and Ontarian. Niagara Region. I will be doing my best to make it to Autofest. Hope to see you guys there. I came across your channel, and im glad i did. I recently had bodywork done to my 2005 Escalade ESV. It was not a great experience at all. Ripped off is an understatement! I don't have the experience to attempt myself. But if you guys would be up for the job, i would definitely pay. Aside from that, i love watching your channel, and i am happy that you guys, are starting to get the recognition you deserve! Keep up the great work. Sincerely, Mike.
That's great👍🇨🇦. It would be awesome to see you there! We actually just did work on a pearl white ESV. Sorry to hear it wasn't a good experience though. It is expensive paint that's for sure. Thanks for watching Mike, and hope to see you at Autofest and can chat more!
I did an old weekend-beater BMW project car, with rusto satin white, primer keeps it hanging. I did this for protection while rebuilding, it looks OEM artic white. nobody can tell the difference. Prep is crucial. Touch up a breeze. No toxic chemicals unless you use hardners.
When I hear that accent I think it’s time to drink beers. Thanks for being my Guinea pig boys. I have been using the rust oleum for 15 years, but never knew how clear would lay on it
@@RustedRides yep, steel. summer use only. hope they last a while - i didn't use a 2K clear - but if not it's ridiculously easy to respray. the paint is called CombiColor here.
The clear coat is what makes them last, so saying its a rustoleum paint job is just click bait. The question is how long will rustoleum paint last WITHOUT clear? I painted my trailer without clear and its badly faded, but the boat painted with same paint but cleared is still shiny.
Calling them a $300 paint job is a little misleading. It would be like saying a job with true professional paint is $500. The cost in skilled labor, knowledge, and experience is the part that keeps cars rusty.
Yes labor and skill is the majority of a professional paint job. This is for diy'ers and people can just put in as much effort as they want in prep. We've done tri-coat paint jobs and the paint alone cost $2000. But the rustoleum and clear and sandpaper and tape and masking paper, under $300 CAD for someone who just wants to spray in their backyard
Those vehicles look great. Im seriously going to try this style paint with hardner and then clear...awesome channel. Can you please also do a in depth video of welding in patch panels above hear wheels on trucks
Just responded to your other comment, but yes we can do a bit more explaining on the patch panels and how we do them. Might be able to do that on the van video actually!
Back in 1981, I recd my grandmas 67 Fury III sedan - white/blue, w/ a 383 4bbl… she had it for 10 yrs, after my uncle recd a new vehicle for his job and passed his prior work vehicle on to her - she lived in NE PA and suffice it to say the active use of road salt was detrimental to her lower quarter panels and doors - however, to me, this was a huge improvement over the 1972 Toyota Corolla station wagon I had inherited from my older sister as she had moved on the university - I did a 2x/yr white gloss rustolium paint job on it - spring after the winter thaw and during thanksgiving break…I was a master of fine arts w/ the bondo, and the gallon of gloss white - I even went all “midnight auto parts” and procured faux wire wheel covers, and always added the dual tape pinstripe (blue) on both sides… this was in Central NYS, from 1981-1985
work great i have paint like 5 or more truck car and a 35 foot bus with this stuff tractor paint and rusto. paint all about the same love the stuff works and last
Oh yes! The clearcoat makes a huge difference. And the amount of prep work really depends on how much time someone wants to put into their project. But it's always good to do a good job with prep
Hey, ya i see what you are saying, but this is more for diy'ers that want to save money and do the job themselves, the materials would coat less than $300 Canadian. If they have the time to put in, it's a viable option
Clearly you have a vested interest in people paying exorbitant rates to cover "warranty" and issues if customers return. This video has nothing to do with your market, this is for people that would never spend that kind of money for manual labor easy jobs
I'd say better. At least around here. Macco has gotten expensive and they don't always put in much time on prep. And depending on it you get the new guy or the guy that's been doing it a while, you get runs and bad orange peel.
We used Nason reducer and proform universal catalyst hardener. We explain a bit more in the pontiac vibe video that we painted blue, might be worth a look if you are thinking about trying it! Thanks for watching and for the comment
@@RustedRides I've done it a bunch of times on work trucks and 10 wheel dumps we used on site jobs. It came out good. But there was a guy here a few years back with a Ford F-1 pickup he restored and he used red rustoleum. It was really nice. He told me he used a hardener, but I forget what he said it was. I right now have 2 trucks here that I painted with rustoleum but without hardener. One in 2009 and another in 2015. So far they both held up. A little dull now, but I think they would buff out fine
Single stage is kit bad but it's still much more expensive than rustoleum and the clear we have used here. Single stage is approximately $185 CAD a quart, vs rustoleum at $30 CAD. Even with the clear, we are still spending less and will get a better glossy wet look
@@jean-phillipegagnon2120 how was this not a good result? What don't you understand about saving a lot of money? You think people want to spend more money than necessary to paint a older vehicle? What makes you think that? How silly of you.
@@jean-phillipegagnon2120 I think that was a typo, I think that meant to say "Single stage isn't bad". They've done a single stage video before, check out some of the other videos!
I really disliked Rustoleum because it takes forever to cure. I've painted many lawn furniture with it, and after 6 months of sitting in the sun, i can still make a easy imprint with my fingernail
Really eh? We haven't had that in our experience. It does take a while to dry that is true, but 6 months? I have had other paint, for my front door to my house, it's been a year and it still feels weird.
I have done both Rustoleum job and had done cheapest macco paint job. I think going the macco route is much better. As long as you go with a solid color
Very viable option. It depends on the maccoas well for how it's going to turn out. Also the cheap macco job up here in Canada isn't cheap anymore. They have raised their prices big time
