Oil based paint requires patience and takes a long time to dry but once fully cured it is super strong. The more coats, the better the finish. 2 coats will give you semi gloss, 10 coats and sanding between every few coats will give you a near mirror shine.
That color looks really good on that vehicle. Great choice! I just wish you'd taken a little more care with the masking (painting the body color over the keyholes and emblems really brought down the look) and spent that last $10 in the budget to get some black to add some contrast on the bumpers to really make it look sharp.
Fully agree! Great colour choice, great paint-work. Further prepping might have made a big difference too I would assume. Longer sanding, a little Bondi, taking out side markers and trim, unbolting the hood, covering key holes as Cory said and some black spray paint for minor details.
Nice job. I had never painted a car or body parts in 30 years and at least 25 cars I've owned. This past week I painted my teenage son's Impreza in an open carport on gravel and dirt ground. I figured out what works for my area (western Colorado). I did 5 and 7 light to medium-wet coats on a whole car, over 4 sessions without fail. Apply and let dry for 15 (minimum) to 20 (maximum) minutes between coats and it works fine for the paints I used. You should spray two small test areas with all environmental/time factors the same before the actual project. For example, if you have an area to spray that takes 10 minutes to paint it, wait and warm-up/shake your next can(s) for 5 minutes and start the next coat. That's a total of 15 minutes. I know up to 20 minutes is also good. But 40 minutes was too long because that induced chemical reactions and severe wrinkling. I painted in the same order/pattern each time I sprayed a section. I had zero runs, spray errors, or reaction defects. The original paint condition was below average. No body rust, but 50% of clear coat was gone and hunter green was faded and rock chips galore. Below is the weather, process and paint I used. 1. Up to 3-mph occasional breeze is okay, anything faster or constant is to be avoided. Clear skies, for light, preferred. 20% to 40% humidity. Temperature between 50F and 72F while spraying. Warmed spray cans in hot water in a bucket. Shake them as much as possible. Paints used on sides, nose and rear (3 sections): -- Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Gloss Navy Blue 2X Paint + Primer: 1 medium-wet coat. -- Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Enamel Gloss Navy Blue: 2 medium-wet coats. -- Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Enamel Crystal Clear coat: 2 light coats + 2 medium-wet coats. I think a 5th coat could be applied with no problems. Paints used on hood, roof and hatchback (1 section): -- Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Gloss Black 2X Paint + Primer: 2 coats. -- Rust-Oleum Universal Hammered Black: 3 coats (4th coat optional). ***Color dries gloss dark grey with blackish specs, not solid black. 2. Sanded car with 100 and 150 grit dry paper by hand, with a scrubby dish sponge as the pad to fold the paper around. First, I sanded high defect/damaged spots...double their original size. Then I sanded vertically and again horizontally (cross hatched) the whole car. 3. From this point forward you must walk carefully to protect from dirt contamination...do not drag or scuff the ground. Wet the surrounding area to help keep dust out of air. Douse car with hot water and wipe down with rags. Let air dry 30 minutes. Check that all areas are smooth/scuffed well...touch up as needed. Wash with hot water+dish soap and rags/sponge. Rinse well. Dry with microfiber. Air dry 15 minutes. Tape up as necessary. 10 to 15 minutes before paint spraying use a microfiber cloth and lighter fluid or mineral spirits (same thing) to wipe down the section to be painted. Immediately before painting wipe all surface with a tack cloth. As you're spraying move slowly and don't scuff the ground. 4. Even in the open air you will want to use a painting respirator, but at minimum cover nose and mouth with thick damp cloth or N95/N100 face mask. Clear, tight fitting safety eye glasses work best...the larger goggles reflect light and make wet paint difficult to see clearly. I had to go without eye cover and just squinted my eyes when the paint spray was thick, because goggles distorted the light. 5. It will take these paint formulas 3+ hours to dry to firm finger touch so leave it alone for 5 hours. I let it dry 24 hours in the carport and then put it in the Sunlight for 2 more days before driving. At 25 to 30 days I'll polish and wax it. If you want to see pics drop me your email and I'll send you a couple.
I've painted 2 cars with Rustoleum and they came out fine. I would have used all of the paint and added some hardener, as the oil based paint stays soft for quite a long time. Maybe it won't matter so much on a vehicle that is off road regularly, but with the extra coats and hardener you can wet sand and buff it for a decent shine. But it has no UV protection so you'll need to wax it occasionally.
Very nice considering what you paid for materials, I love this color! so I decided Im going to paint my tow truck this color too! thank you for making this video
I had an appliance business back in the '80's, and I would use Naphtha to reduce enamel paint when I painted appliances. I got better results than with paint thinner. Often people did not know that I had repainted some of the appliances. Worked well.
I've almost done a Rustoleum job multiple times, but every time I looked into it I figured out that it was worth the extra 60 bucks for a single stage automotive urethane.
Came out looking good. I am doing some project myself. I have a 2000 silverado that was 4 different colors and just wanted her to look a little more respectful. I just plan on driving in the winter to keep salt off my new truck. I prepped yesterday. Taking to car wash this morning getting breakfast and shooting her when i get back. It will be on my channel.
I wonder how it would turn out spraying it outside with a cheap paint gun and small compressor. 🤔 I have access to a paint booth at work but I really want to do everything at home so I don't have to worry about getting it done by a specific time. If I do it at work, then I have from Friday evening to Sunday night to get everything prepped, sprayed, back together and clean up afterwards. I can do it, but I really want to take my time. That way if I find something that I missed, I can repair it and not worry about time. I think I'm gonna paint it one panel at a time since I don't have a garage or big compressor. Remove all the trim, prep the panel and trim for that panel, then paint the body gloss white and the trim gloss black. If I do one panel each weekend, it will take about 3 months to complete. And it'll look strange driving it around until it's done. But I think the finished product will be nice.
Hey! Looks great! How is it holding now after almost 3 years without a clear coat/uv coat? I am wondering if it's the same or might have been better to add clear coat too? Thanks!
Dude! You make it look so easy. I have tried and failed to spray paint with an hlvp gun so many times and it never works. Paint never comes out. Maybe I’m not thinking enough? People just say 10%, but that’s not helpful. What type of consistency do you need!?!? I spray water just fine but the paint - never comes out
That’s pretty cool. I didnt know this was possible. I bought a 2,000$ beater - how much would you charge to paint it the same way? Or, do you recommend me going and buying a compressor, gun, and tools and DIY’ing it.
Question: I am thinking of painting my '48 Chevy w/flat black Rustoleum. I am thinking of using Acetone as reducer but including some hardener so the surface will stand up to rubbing to wash etc. What do you think?? Ratio?? My compressor can't support HVLP so I'm going have to use a siphon gun. Thoughts?? Ken in central oh.
I used some on my RV/bus to find a perfect match on my bay doors. 3 years still shines good. I wouldn't recommend waxing it. But you can use soap to clean it just like any vehicle.. Just prep well before painting and use care during that step or you'll be sure to get flaking.
Nice job! That’s a cheap paint job. I happened to go through Nashville on my way to Pennsylvania from Texas last April. That’s a nice area there. A little off the beaten path too.
Why why why! Excellent color choice. Poor decision to paint it without repairing damaged areas. This has Maaco pray drive through paint written all over it. Lol. "Ma'am just keep driving slowly and try not to breathe the fumes." However I think your purpose was to show what could be done for less than 40 bucks. In that, you excelled. So despite the background tunes and the painting faux pas, I will click that like button. I envy the workshop also. It's like Disneyland for the grown man.
How could i dull the paint so it flat,,,its hard to find fresh camo desert tan paint,,everyone i buy online ends up being old stock and lots of old clumps at bototm of can
@Charlie Smith: if you wanna kill the shine use gunwash when you just finished your final finish coat have a gun loaded with gunwash and while still really wet mist the entire body with it.
You just painted the hood, and what did you do, place a can of paint and a quart of reducer on it! Guess it's OK for the fact it's a cheap job! Personally I've been a bodyman and painter for over 50 years and I would " NEVER" ues cheap paint!!!!
No shit can you buy paint and tape and in the next aile a fucking gun. Makes me glad to be English. In all my life I've never seen a gun in real life, wether in a shop or in someone's house or anywhere. America is a mad place and I'm glad I only need worry about paint runs and not being blasted away by some fucking mad man
Rust-Oleum doesn't require hardener. It sure by the solvents/thinners evaporating. When your are using paints that require hardener, that hardener is actually creating a chemical reaction that causes the paint to catalyze/ start setting up. So, the hardener is needed for certain paints to cure, but you cant just add hardener to any paint in the hopes it will make the paint " harder". Hope that made sense
I can see you don't mess around with a lot of useless stuff. Mix paint/thinner right is the paint gun, no hardener, two coats (plus a little here and there), one quart (assume a little left to paint door jambs, etc, with a brush). Until I saw your video I thought I was the only one painting this way. The thing a lot of people miss is after a week or two nobody will notice the difference between your paint job and the fancy ones.
