Rustoleum Rock Solid Floor Coating Review 

Floor isn’t prepped at all. How’s it supposed to bond and cure evenly

The result looks pretty good...props to the guy who did the job since he was the only one video working 👍

Your floor prep is lacking...don't blame the product

I appreciate the video, and the challenges you faced. IMHO, many of the issues you experienced (and others I've seen and read) are related to the prep when it comes to existing shop concrete. Prep really needs to go to actually grinding the concrete. I'm about to do my daughters garage (new house), so back reviewing experiences of others. My own experience has been with my new home (3 years ago) and applied immediately upon moving in (new concrete about 8 weeks aged from being laid). Took great care cleaning and etching with the components in the kit(s). Mine was a 3 car garage, so used 2 - 2 1/2 car kits, per issues I saw in the comments about coverage. Also bought additional flakes for the same reason. Used quality brushes and rollers and took extra care mixing the pouches based on comments but still experiences some minor discoloration. Would highly recommend using the flakes as they cover any imperfections. Experience has been positive over the 3 years, mostly still looks good, except for the front part(South facing) of the garage that get exposed to sunlight when the doors are open. You'll see that they warn of UV on the box so pay attention and keep the sunlight off the epoxy as best you can.

I did my floor and came out awesome..it’s all about the floor prep.

Good too see Dana white doing a review.

The issue was your prep. Rock solid requires pretty much a perfect surface area to work on. It's always not like latex paint where you can just put more layers on and fix it, unfortunately.

Reminds me of dad constantly saying “measure twice, cut once”. Great video. I learned to spend extra time prepping. Tape off baseboards or include a way to get close to baseboards. Perhaps paint baseboard in area first. Measure off with chalk recommended 4x6 size to paint incrementally. Great video.

It's the product. I had the same issue. I purchase two pack since there was a deal. The first batch rolled on like crap. It took 6 month for it to fully cure. I even waited almost a month before walking on it because it was still tacky. I gave up as I needed my garage back. So now I have section with dirt epoxy. The second batch came out perfect. Dont bothered reaching out to manufacturers because you will not hear back from them.

Preparation is the key to the final work's product. Seems like these guys did not remove all the adhesive off the floor prior to putting on the epoxy coating. Not only that, they plan on using both epoxy packs. Why not mix both together. You'll get a much more uniform mixture. This way there won't be any color variations when applying it on the garage floor. That's my 2 cent.

Hi guys! Your video is awesome! It's videos like this that make a regular person like me better at things we wanna do ourselves. Please do not be discouraged. I, for one, loved it. I will not let your garage floor sacrifice be in vain lol. I will learn from you. Thank you for posting :)

Thanks for sharing this video and results from your experience. I am going to do my garage floor, I was looking into this product. I am now looking into other options. I will add that my next door neighbor had his done, it turned out crappy. But I thought it was because of how he put it down and who he had do it. Guess it is the product.

Mixing wasn’t right The floor was still not clean enough. Grinding the floor would give excellent finish.

You should have rented a floor grinder from home depot. The acid etch will not remove the black adhesive you still have left on the floor. It may look good now, but will eventually fail due to adhesion.

Thanks for doing this, I'm getting ready to do my 2.5 garage and I have not found what I want yet

Guys, I wasn't surprised about the result that you got. I was really going to be kicking myself if it had gone very well. The reason being that the amount of prep work that i have done to get my floor ready, I would have said that was waste of time but I kind of see the reason why the prep work is very very important. Hope you do a better job next time.

I just diamond ground my garage floor , etched it and pressure washed everything. Waiting one week to paint and will follow instructions!

You guys are funny. You wing it without reading instructions, but as long as you like it. Great video fellows!

cheers for the video guys, i guess the main thing is to take more time with preparation, really helpful for me with my domestic garage project, thank you

This is probably one of the best videos out there. I appreciate the fact that you guys are normal like me and the process you stepped though helped me with what I may have missed or missing as I start my own project. So kudos to a real video where us regular joe's don't have all the knowledge, fancy diamond grinders and equipment.

Guys...the floor looks nice enough. Glad u guys saved some money and got the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I wouldn't worry about the color differences and the imperfections. I mean, it's a garage.

Great video for the typical guy. Please do a follow up every year for a while. Everyone wants to know how this will wear out over time.

Thanks for ur honesty. Peace brother!

It's pretty incredible how well that product covered that highly questionable surface! During the into when you were showing the floor after having taken up the carpet and removed the the adhesive, I was thinking that you might be heading for some trouble. Overall, your floor looks so much better after applying the product. I think the inconsistency with the color and the curing, are both issues that resulted from not having mixed up the product thoroughly enough. By this time, you guys have probably addressed the trouble spots and applied a second coat. I'll bet your floor looks great, now.

I REALLY appreciate the fact that you showed that it didn't work quite as well as you were hoping. Do you have a followup video, from say 2 months later to show how it is holding up (as well as to see if Rustoleum had any advice for you)?

I just used it. 1. I sanded down the old 5 year old Rustoleum Epoxy Shield ( which was never primed and the concrete sucked up the paint.) . 2.This time I Cleaned the floor. 3. *Primed with Rustoleum Recoat Primer. 4. Recoated with Rustoleum RockSolid . Came out Perfect..... Remember FLOOR PREP IS MOST IMPORTANT.....As far as being still tacky you probally did't mix well enough is my guess.

Thanks for the honest feedback. I think when I do this I will allow like 2 weeks to dry before setting a single footprint in it. No reason to rush it especially if it can cause those issues you showed.

My dad had his garage floor done in 2008. Had it washed/degreased,, then filled and ground down entire garage like 1/8” , then applied two coats of epoxy. Has held up so far since. And still no flaking. Just had the same thing done. Think it would help a lot if it was ground down during prep.

So I have used this before on a new garage floor and old floor. I found on the new floor it worked beautifuly. However on the old floor to get the same results you have to grind the top layer of concrete off prior to etching. Hope that helps. Keep up the great work guys! Love the channel!

Thanks Guys. Very fair review and great video. Old floors with a lot of adhesive, suck.

Don't "Dry" roll the coating, that "whooshing" of the roller means it's dry, and all you are doing is picking up the paint you just put down. pour the first ribbon "straight" 4-6 inches wide 2 feet from the wall. Not (4 feet from it 2 inches wide in a "S" pattern). You have to step the coating across the floor, not "pull" it. Also, I have found that strong acid washes will weaken the top layer of the concrete, causing it to flake off over time. So, I have used a very good concrete primer like Perma-Crete by PPG after a thorough cleaning. It is a tintable primer (that you can have tinted to match your coating). It will seal in any imperfections that could bleed back through the coating at a later date, and also promote excellent adhesion.

I'll be interested to see how this holds up. I've been thinking about doing this myself, and if this stuff ends up working out I might give it a shot.

I haven't done my garage yet, so not speaking from experience. However, based on videos I have seen a diamond grind of the floor instead of the etch might have turn out better results. Especially since the carpet removal left adhesive on the floor. Thanks for the video though. The more info I have on the product will help me.

Re colour variations.. I have noticed that unlike with paint, there is only very small window of time to do a touch up with the roller. If you don’t touch up within just a few minutes after application in an area, you can get that variation in colour and the touch up will be obvious.

I hired someone to epoxy my garage floor. They steered me away from the newer 'rocksolid' version of Rustoleum to the EpoxyShield. Apparently there were several runs of this Rocksolid product that had issues(according to the manufacterer). The Epoxyshield went on great and is holding up great after a few years.

Thanks for the heads up!

I have done a lot of garages with epoxy shield and never had any problem, color and dry time wise, durability I’m not sure if you will keep car parked long period may peel off.

I used the cheaper Rustoleum product (HomeDepot kit) in 2 different homes. The 1st house was new construction, and looked beautiful (no hot tire peel) for 7 years. The 2nd house was almost 40 years old, and started hot tire peel within 4 months. In my experience, if you're not inheriting super-clean concrete, you MUST spend money/time/sweat to clean/prep it for a desirable outcome. (Or pay the extra $ for a pro install/product/warranty.) In short, you pay one way or another.

You should use a concrete grinder to prep the floor before you do your degrease

Prep, Prep, Prep. 1st. It didn't stick to the old adhesive becasue it just can't. It's that simple. 2nd It didn't cure due not being mixed well enough. When you think you have it mixed, mix it again. 3rd. The color was off because al the kits needed to be boxed together before it was applied. By having it professionally installed, you avoid all these issues. Experienced installers will tell you all the same things I have because they've seen it all before.

Most pro videos show that using the burst mix Method is is highly ineffective. They highly suggest throughly mixing via mechanical means with a power drill. I’m guessing the mixing method in this video also contributed to the uneven coloration. Also keep in mind a pro kit will include a primer coat, to even out base color, for a more congruous finish color, as well as sealing the concrete substrate (to prevent off gassing air bubbles in your new epoxy, as part of the chemical reaction, to the chemical bond), to prevent the air bubbles that were evident in this flooring, but not mentioned. A pro kit will have the two part epoxy in clear, with a color additive, pre measured for accurate color. A pro kit will also include a clear top coat. A pro kit will cost 4 to 5 times as much, and it will also look professional when properly completed. Don’t expect to get $3000 results for a few hundred dollars. Pro results cost about 2 times materials. So if you want a $3k floor on a DIY budget, it’ll be $1200-$1500.

This is user error. I have installed this product in dozens of garages without issue. Great video but a few mistakes, 1. Prep is everything with this product. Floor has to be complete sterile and free of debris, the adhesive and pieces of stuff you were picking up during application are going to haunt you. 2. Mixing, the color differences as well as the wet sports are from you not mixing those bags thoroughly. After you break the seal you have to shake those bags for a solid 1-2 minutes. If the ratios of part a and b is correct it won’t cure as you have now found. These floors work and last great but prep and having a knowledge of the materials is key

Nice job Cailou!

I had the same problems you had with color variation and adhesion. I did extensive site preparation and sanding prior to application.

coverage was my biggest issue. Bought the 2 car pack..got about 1.5 out of it. Had to but another pack. Mine was approx 90% dry 12 hrs later, some tacky spots..but not bad.

I have used this product in multiple rooms. you did not prep your surface well. In addition, you did not follow instructions on how to lay the paint. He did not do WN pattern. Very important to keep it even. If the floor underneath is dark you do have to either put a base out on or put it on thicker. I used the black Polycuramine. Works way better. If it did not cure you did not mix it correctly. He did not break up lumps properly before breaking the bag. you have to knead it like dough. Once you break package you do not use a roller to mix, you have to use your hands to make sure you break up all lumps and shake slowly. You got air bubbles too. thats from overstating. Definitely cal Rust-Oleum. They are very helpful.

I have epoxyed 3 shop floors in my day about to do #4 and the last

Curious on the drying issue... did you talk to the company? I just applied the product in my garage and was doing research on when is safe to apply the clear coat... also the clear coat says 3 days, but if the other layer didn't dry, then I'm hesitant on when would be the best to drive on my garage... thanks!! great review btw :)

Appreciate the video! It helped me in what NOT to do! Fortunately i only have a 2 car garage. what i did first was to use a strong degreaser on my bare concrete floor. Second was too do an acid etching on the floor so as to have the surface slightly roughed up and a surface for the product to actually bite into and bond with the floor. I gave the product almost 5 days to completely dry and cure. 3 months later no hot tire pick-up, no pealing, NO ISSUES! I believe your lack of preparing the surface, is your issues.

Good job guys. I wouldn’t worry about the small imperfection, obviously the more coats the better to get a nice even flat surface. I always tell my self that the prep has to be done perfectly so that the epoxy can last it’s time and Obviously look great. Thank you for the info on the product it was very helpful.

I'll never have a garage floor again that isn't top-coated in some way. It just makes such a huge difference. I used polyaspartic urea coating for my current garage and some sort of polyurethane thing in my old garage. Polyurethane is cheap, but stinks for days and wears a lot faster. In my basement utility room, I used the same Rust-Oleum stuff you did. It turned out perfect and has held up fairly well over 8 years, but that floor had never been exposed to any other types of chemicals. As with any painting job, surface prep is 99% of the outcome. FYI - This is not a complaint, but just a friendly observation. Your videos would look 10x more professional if you used a tripod to hold your camera, smartphone, or whatever you film with.

Good demonstration and explanation. I'm trying to decide on what product to buy. Rust-Oleum have another one called Professional that's supposed to be better. I'll look at that one. And thanks for a straight forward video that wasn't tainted with shitty music.

You have to mix each side of the bag separately before you break the seal and mix them. This may explain the tackiness issue.

What do you use for the top coat if you were to use the flakes?

The Rust-Oleum Rocksolid floor coating system did not work for me. Used it two different times, two different projects!

That product never going to dry if you don’t mix well

Man! I would’ve never used that material. But lesson learned. Send me a message we are a Epoxy Distributor out of Mesa, AZ we can help out with any questions other viewers have and guide you through the right direction. Clear Coat The World With Urethane! 😎

Thanks guys! I noticed you taped off each area as you went. Can we do one section per day or even skip a day, and then expect the product to meld seamlessly without an obvious line???? Thanks

I like the video guys but it’s all about prepping the area. It was a piss poor idea applying it without using a HomeDepot Diamabrush, surface prep tool. Hope it holds up ok.

I’m thinking about trying this hopefully it goes well

Just put another coat down and it'll look good

Mix better beat that bag add some flakes too very nice detailed video

If you can hear the roller there isn't enough paint

Appreciate the video fellas. My heart breaks for ya on the outcome but, as always, you'll find a way through. Not to be crappy in any way, but this does make me feel better about paying the $4/ft I did a couple of months back. I would suggest to others that these big box products seem to represent a false economy unless you align your expectations correctly. I've had one of these correctly installed in a prior home and it didn't hold up well at all. The commercial 3-layer coatings are the way to go - I did get quotes for very these basic applications as low as $2.50 thru Thumbtack (in the Phoenix area). While it's not always true that "you get what you pay for", in this case my experience says you do. Chin up lads - you'll figure it out.

Great unbiased review guys. Question... did you guys need to buy anything else but the kit itself, such as the product to clean and etch the floor? If so, what did you use? Thanks!

My OCD would be kicking in over the discoloration too, but it's a shop not a showroom and it will be infinitely nicer to work on either way. I've found Amazon reviews to be pretty worthless myself lol.

Great review dudes!!

I'm surprised you got the results you did, did you read the prep instructions at all??

Thanks for lesson in flooring.... why does everyone seem to tip toe around the numbers? How much was the quote? what is that per square foot? How much is the Rust-Oleum product? Keep up the great work.

Is this stuff low VOC or does it have a lot of odor?

Thanks for this video. I’m doing this tomorrow. I’ve been prepping for two days. I’d sure like to have seen y’all apply the decorative chips. How is the floor holding up?

I have a three car garage, then I may be need two packs, but the many comments about color not matching does bother me. Can I mix two packs together to get consistent color?

How does this stuff hold up to gas, motor oil, floor jack rolling around on it, and also welding ?

You can tell the floor wasn’t floor properly prep, degrease, etch and grinded. I use that product all the time.

Great vid guys

That sucks. I personally reckon those flakes could have helped in covering up the imperfections

with that floor you needed to do a diamond grind.

My advice, double the amount of product you buy mix it all in one shot in a bucket for 5 minute at low speed not to insert air bubble into the mix. Let it rest 5 minute. then apply not with a roller but a squeegee. I had never use that particular product but I dit paint industriel floor many time and that's the way we do it. Also by making it thicker it act as a self leveling

I have a new floor and it has been down now for 8 wks did the etching and scrubbed the concrete with a brush and rinsed the floor 7 times let dry for two weeks i had purchased 2 kits 2.5 garage kits followed the instructions to the t i was using the sprinkles and when i put the sprinkles on i got like a fish eye on another section i let dry a little longer and no fish eye you have to work fast because this stuff gets real stickey real fast not real happy with the product i really do not know what i could have done different

Right, prepped the heck on this a couple years it was flaking off

Consider doing a 2nd coat? I've always heard people doing two coats of epoxy -- grant it, I think you have to do it within a certain amount of time of the first coat being applied

Can you guys do an update video on the floor? Would like to know how well it hold up.

Which one is good, rustoleum rock solid or rustoleum epoxy shield

Did you do anything to fix it? Our contractor used same product and has messed up so looking for suggestions on how we can fix the situation of uneven color and uncured epoxy in few spots

Did my floor alone at 61. First color coat was great. Did heavy chips. But I epoxy filled all cracks previously and sanded. Color was even. Had plenty of material. On the clear coat not so good. Tried to do 4 by 4 areas. Roller held alot of material. Tried to lesson at roller pan. Eeeeh! 1 box did between half and 3/4s second box had little left. Sand additive useless. Kept stiring before each 4x4. Goes straight to bottom looks like you have more material than you do. This do to sand at bottom even after stir. Second box added sand a little at a time. Again straight to the bottom. Suggest sprinkling sand on area of tray where you roll the roller so it will pick up before painting. Having to go back to by second kit ended up missing an area near a wall. It all looked wet. Self leveling? Floor not perfectly level tended to puddle in a couple places even after rolling out in w & m pattern. Over all looks good but I am not a pro. Could be better.

The way you rolled the bag with a roller to mix the two compounds is not the proper way to do this; you have to squeeze the bag back and forth with your hands. Then pour the mixture in a bucket and mix it some more with a stick or any other form of mixer. The uneven color and it's being tacky in some areas is the effect of the mixture not properly mixed in the first place.

Need the rented floor grinder. That floor is so not ready for epoxy

Always diamond grind first. the black glue residue is oil based, NOTHING will stick to it. look us up for the next one, our product batches are all the same color and same lot number. we have made a career out of replacing big box epoxy floors.

Can anybody help me with a professional opinion on this? I did my garage floor with sikagard 62. It was a horrendous mess, but seems to have come out really well. It was also a lot more - a ton more-than rust oleum at Home Depot. Was it worth it? Will it last longer? It looks incredible.

You guys prepped the floor?

It’s weird their garage costing doesn’t go as far but the basement stuff it pretty spot on sqft wise

Next time rent a grinder from Sherwin-Williams and use H&C Shieldcrete XL or General Polymers 3746. Involve a local Sherwin Williams rep, they will be a part of your project free. If you cant grind I strongly recommemd two coats of Armorseal RexThane. No mixing and beautiful finish thats easy to redo in the future if you want to.

Grind the concrete next time

Acid etching is the wrong answer. If you just pressure wash and acid etch, the coating just sits on the surface of the concrete. You have to diamond grind to remove surface contaminants and open the pores to allow the coating to wick into the concrete for a better bond.

why did you not use fans to move the air around increasing your drying. Also help with odors.

That tackiness and uneven color means the 3rd bag wasn't mixed well enough.

Yo can you put this outside on driveway? Will it last in the rain?

that floor should have been sanded w/ a diamond blade and all of the crap down to bare concrete. I have never seen any of these turn out well without spending a ton of money and time on prep.

Lol you didnt clean anything what did you expect? Im surprised it came out as good as it did

I want to use this for my basement floor. The floor was painted more than 25 years ago by the prior owner. Do you think this will work for a basement if I grind off the paint first? Thanks!