Having never serviced a generator before i found your how to video very helpful and i now feel much more confident in the upcoming project. Thanks for sharing this information.
Thank you for having these videos!! I've watched both clanging the oil in the engine and this one. Feeling confident I'll be able to complete both on my own after these videos!
This worked beautifully and I wouldn't have had the confidence to try it without your video. Thank you! Thank you! Even a girl can do it. LOL! The hardest part was getting the bolt unscrewed to drain the oil and getting the spark plug boot off. Tip: The socket has to go pretty far up in the opening to grab the spark plug. I'll now be tuning my generator every year. Thanks again.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen with the help of a gasoline container, a piece of hose and 12v battery, I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, then it was ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for 120v electricity but not before flipping the AC circuit switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to be able to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the refrigerator for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!
So I'm guessing i have to do this eventually. Hmmmm -- so wallyworld gave me a freebie today - its a small thingamajig but it works. (the tools sprocket t n tubes ) lol the paper flew in the wind -- as I was looking I'm such a clutz. So I did check air filter still white so I don't need it, but maybe the sparkplug - what color is it supposed to be before I change it lol - not mechanically inclined at all but not paying an RV mechanic $250 to do this. I can do it. Hahaha wish me luck!!!
Mine had 200 hours on it when I bought it, I’m not sure if it had been changed before but I changed it anyways. I would say an oil and air filter change every year and a the spark plug every other?
Question; I’m doing all the general maintenance because my generator won’t start, so I’m starting with that. With that being said, can I change the oil without the oil being hot?
Myks Garage thanks for the reply. Quick question . You put alittle over 1 1/2 quarts of oil . Or alittle under.. I believe you said alittle over? Just confirming. Thanks
@@Myksgarage lol... Never mind, 13 16th and 5/8 are definitely different and I just couldn't figure it out.Because 13 16th is definitely what you need.Thanks a lot
@@happycampa1 Well, that makes no sense. What if the plug is dropped and the gap closes? Now what? How does one check the gap on a used plug? It serves no purpose to hide the gap setting in some secret code that nobody knows. Mine is part number Onan #167-0275 and the plug number is Champion RN14YC. So tell me, what is the gap? I have looked in the owners manual, the installation manual and the service manual and no where do they tell the spark plug gap. I have never seen this with any engine. I have read, unofficially, that a number at the end of Champions plug number is the preset gap though I can't find this on Champions website. For example a RN14YC4 meaning .040, but who knows this? Mine don't have a suffix number and are at .025 out of the box, on the one I checked. The 14 is the temperature, the higher the number the hotter it is, and the "C" means a copper electrode. No mention of the meaning of the "Y".
Actually there is a fuel filter on these onan 4000 generators. It is located on the inlet side of the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located behind the generator control module under the inlet cooling fan.
Yes they are pre-gapped. You can always change the gap yourself if you need it different. The specific code on the spark plug for your specific application should be gapped appropriately. If they don't make the plug with the gap you need, you adjust it. Look it up.
