I love your attitude, and I don't have a ryker yet but like watching you work on your own and doing it in front of the camera so we can see so when I do get mine I have some ideas😎
Thank you for buying made in the USA products The men and women at Yokohama surely appreciate your purchase you are helping the local Economy here in West Point Mississippi……. We have lost so many jobs to Mexico thank you for supporting us here in Mississippi. Love from Mississippi USA 🇺🇸
Smart move to use the floor jack to avoid sideways downward pressure on that nut. I was glad the nut didn't break free when you had that rachet at 11:00 and pushing it away from you, you were headed for a tumble and some scrapes from the jack and the floor!! I also like that you were in no hurry and reasoned your way through things. Enjoyed the video!! Thank you!!
Thanks for the feedback! I'm sure that there are other ways to do the wheel removal on the Ryker, but I was trying to do it somewhat quickly and with the tools that I had available to me. I enjoy wrenching on my machines... it's cathartic and fulfilling most of the time... as long as I don't break anything or lose any skin in the process! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks, really enjoyed the video. Been thinking of getting one of these, being a retired tool and die maker, blow out the holes before re tapping and always use cutting oil even to clean out the threads. It will make the job much easier.
Did you really need to remove the disk for mounting and balancing? Maybe it would not fit the mounting machine, but the balancing might have been easier and would have included the disk mass in the balance.
a 1/2" breaker bar is sufficient for that torque spec. I used one from Harbor Freight for a crank bolt with similar torque specs. I'm a big guy so it doesn't take much for me to "break" stuff lol. It was a fun adventure though..I would like to use that tire on my spyder, just needs to be a little wider.
Lower the Yoko rear pressure to 24 or so. This is what we run them at on the Spyder and the Ryker is even lighter load. Just stay above about 18 to keep out side wall flex in the corners. The tire should last 18k or so, or at least that is what they average on the Spyders. What do you plan to use for the fronts? Sorry to see you went through all the trouble to get your tire changed. Too bad we are booked up a couple of weeks out or I would have done it for you in less than an hour. Just for future reference, there is no need to remove the brake rotor to change the tire. It was obvious the kid putting your tire on at Discount did not know how to use the machine. I winced when he went at your wheel with the tire iron to pry the bead over. He really needs some training. Enjoy your new found traction.
Thanks for the tip, James! You are busy for a reason... good mechanics and techs are always busy! 👍👍 I'll lower the pressure to ~24-28 PSI and see how it feels. The front tires are still a Kenda-only affair, so I'm headed up to Broadway Powersports in Tyler, TX for a new set of normal Kenda's (not the all-season tread) and an alignment check-up. We are headed to OK and AR after that for a few days of motocamping and riding! Cheers! 😉👍 ‐‐QM
The frustrations of the first 20 minutes or so ... we all have had days when nothing seems to want work out. Always reassuring to know I am not singled out to be cursed and that other people have similar days, lol. I don't have a Ryker but love the problem solving, on the hoof, so to speak.
Advice for next time, use thread cleaner tap not thread tap. Not much damage this time, & was able to torque down, but don't make a habit out of it. A simple cut in the threads of a bolt at a slight angle will clean threads without damage to wheel.
Thx for the feedback and the tip! That is an important distinction... thread chasing tap vs cutting tap. The tap that I used this time was indeed a cutting tap because I didn't have a chaser in 10x1.5mm pitch. I've always had good luck with cutting taps as long as I work slowly and clean the tap's lands frequently. It's important with either kind of tap to start it slow to ensure that you're in the existing threads and not cutting fresh ones. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I would wire brush the bolts and then get a little tiny wire brush that fits the bolt holes and very gently very gently clean them up. 👍🏻✨Thank you for your video😎
For 3/4” drive I would think Tractor Supply, Farm & Fleet or something similar might have a better selection than automotive supply stores. As a former mechanic who would come across corrosion frozen wheel lugs I would use a 3/4” socket to 1/2” adaptor to a extended length breaker bar with a 6 foot pipe as a cheater bar to break loose stubborn fasteners. Even with the long pipe length you really needed to put everything you have into it and sometimes a friend also to break them loose. High torque on a ratchet is dangerous.
Absolutely! I will have enough miles on it after this trip to make an educated opinion. I plan to do a ride report and a status update on my Ryker's handling issues. My fingers are crossed... hopefully the new front tires and alignment will cure the rapid darting from side to side. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I don't know of anyone other than Can Am shop employees that think highly of the crappy Kenda tires. .My first set were bald at 17,000 miles on my F3 limited. especially the rear one.
The Ryker is a fun beast, but it definitely has its quirks. Tire changes are an ordeal because Can-Am dealers won't (can't) use tires that aren't officially approved by Can-Am, and automotive dealers won't touch the bike with a 10-foot cattle prod. So, you're stuck removing the wheels and taking them into a tire shop as a carry-in item. On the positive side... this Yokohama tire sticks like glue compared to the original Kenda Flinstone rock-o-death that came as original equipment. The old tire would spin up at 40 mph on dry pavement and could easily break traction on wet pavement at 65+ mph... not good. The Yoko will only break loose when you want it to: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M6EvOtVK1Lw.html . 😉👍 --QM
I had an issue with Discount Tire....They had a Complete bird over the fact that My Winter 14" Altimax Arctic Tires (same OD) are mounted on Toyota Echo wheels *without* TPMS sensors for My Toyota Yaris that came with 15" tires and TPMS... Needless to say I drove 10 miles away to the other DT and told them they are going on a 2003 Echo...and no problem. (And this was 100% carry in!) - Now since then I have befriended the guy at the much more local Auto/4WD shop...and he doesn't care what I bring him...LOL
🤣 So, where were you? I called all my friends to help me and sweat in the heat, but nobody offered assistance! Unfortunately, it's easier to see potential issues after the fact. The mounting surface had a few thin spots of thread-locking agent, but those spots were thin enough that I couldn't snag a fingernail. I rode the Ryker for ~6K miles after this swap, and the rotor worked fine... no vibration or warping. --QM
I am looking to change my back tire on my rally Riker 900Was wondering is that the only tire that will fit looking for some tire options maybe a more aggressive off
Great video, I will also be getting this tire from my Ryker rally. Make sure you check your tire size carefully because the other 2 Ryker models have 16” tires on the rear. At least the ones that I have seen.
Thank for the feedback! The Rally models have the 15" rear wheel and the non-Rally (900ACE & 600ACE) have the 16" wheels. All models have 16" front wheels, so the tires are interchangeable. I swapped the all-season front tires on my Rally for the non-Rally standard treads; the normal street tires seem to help a bit with cornering grip and they're a bit more resistant to following rain grooves. Cheers! 👍 --QM
If you plan on doing any serious work on motorcycles in your garage, may I suggest that you buy a decent compressor and air tools, especially a ½" air impact.
Hey chief, contact Chris Caliente on RU-vid and let him know that you have "double dark sided" your Ryker! He'll be interested in knowing more about it from you! I watch his videos all the time and have commented a few times as well. You did great work to resolve a serious problem of "junk" products on your machine-Chris would like to hear about it I'm sure! Doug🏍️👍🤓
Ryde RTL myself, Change oil, change rear Kenda repeat. Changed to ecsta car tire. For first 250 mi. slide ways and needs scuffed. Then all good. BRP dealer will not mount. Sling shot dealers have the equipment, know how. Removal and installation, belt adjustment $130.. Ryde safe.
Howdy, Dennis! Sorry for the late reply... I just saw your message today. Our local dealers around here don't seem to want to mess with anything that isn't "factory-approved", so we have to shop around or do it ourselves. Congrats on your RT-L... those are nice! I have considered moving over to a F3-S, but I don't really want a larger, heavier bike. If I could ever solve my alignment & handling issues on my Rally, then I'd be tickled pink with my Ryker. Until then, it's a Love-Hate relationship... I love to twist the wrist and roast the tire, but I hate the wandering at speed. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Nice vid! I've switched to Lexivon for all my tools from now on after being SUPER impressed with their quality. As for tires, I'm going to bend in ear over at Continental Tire for having them make some fronts. The Extreme Contact Sport would be a nice setup all the way around. And given the negative weight vs a car, I would recommend trying a lower PSI.
I have a couple of Ryker videos in the editing queue right now from the trip that followed this video. I have about 2000 miles (3200 km) on the Yokohama tire now, and it has performed very well... no slippage in dry or wet conditions, so the traction is much better than the Kenda. It's much more difficult to spin the rear tire now. After 2000 miles, the Yokohama doesn't show any appreciable wear even with hard riding and intentional burn-outs. Cheers! 👍 --QM
If you end up getting near Omaha, AR, stop in at my place Ozark View RV Park. I'm a Rally owner and found your videos tonight when researching windshields. Have a fun trip!
Sorry for the late reply... I'm just getting back to the editing station after my last couple of road trips. We got frozen and blown out on our last trip up to Arkansas a couple of weeks ago... that cold front wasn't playing games! We ended packing it in and heading back toward Texarkana on Saturday afternoon to avoid the freeze that was headed down on Sunday. 🤣 I'll try to get that ride series edited and posted soon. I'll try to remember to send you a note the next time that we're up there (probably early next spring), and maybe we can stop by your RV park. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Hey Quasi, How are the tires holding up? They're car tires? I want to put a car tire on rear but car shops says they don't recommend it because the Kenda is made Flat not round like cars. Kenda is very expensive in California. $210
The new Yokohama on the rear is doing very well. It has a TON more traction than the original Kenda tire did, and it's wearing very well over the past 2500-3000 miles... still looks new. The front tires were replaced with the street-tread Kenda's from the non-Rally Ryker (no alternative fitments yet). They haven't fared so well because of a dealer error when they reset my alignment at +2.5" toe-OUT instead of -0.25" toe-IN... the inner edges of the front tires are already worn down to near the wear bars. So, I'll be replacing them again very soon. The alignment error has been remedied now (after 1500+ miles of being incorrect), so the next set of front tires should wear better. As for the Kenda tires on the Ryker and their classification... that's a strange issue. The Kenda tires have a "MC" rating, but they are very much automotive-style tires. The tire carcass is square-sided like an automotive tire, and the tread pattern and wear face are automotive all the way. I think the "MC" rating is just for insurance and DOT certification purposes. Can-Am Spyders have used automotive tires for years, and this exact Yokohama rear tire is a standard fitment for the older Spyder SE5 and other models. I've seen a few other owners' pictures on Instagram and Facebook showing other brands of rear tires on their Rykers, so it appears that I'm not the only one that doesn't like the Kenda's performance. If you decide to change over to a different tire and NOT do it with a Can-Am dealer, then you will certainly need to purchase the 65mm socket to remove the rear wheel... tire shops probably won't have that tool available. You might need to remove your rear wheel and/or the brake caliper as well... it just depends on the shop and how flexible they are regarding the Ryker. Good luck with your tire upgrade! 😉👍 --QM
Yo I tried a different cheaper tire, since I've only been getting 4k out if everything I've tried so far. If it lasts 4k I'll be sticking with it, it seems to have better grip as well. It's the: "Zeetex HP1000 Performance Tire 205/55R15 88V" I'll try to remember to post an update if you are interested.
Thanks for the info! Let us know how it does over the long haul. I'll be interested to see how long this Yokohama lasts... it still looks new after 3500+ miles. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I feel your pain I ran into the same thing with Discount Tire . They would sell me the tire but would not take the wheel off WTF and for them it would have been so easy to do
Yep! Sorry to hear about that... it's all about liability. The Yokohama is wearing very well on the back of my Rally so far. I have ~3K miles on it and it still looks nearly new. Unfortunately, my Ryker is down for a while until I rebuild my front-right suspension. I'll be sure to post some videos on that saga as it unfolds. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback! The Yokohama rear tire has about 3500 miles on it now, and it still looks and performs like brand new! I'm very impressed with the wet and dry grip of the Yokohama vs the original Kenda all-season tire that came on the Rally edition. I was able to spin the Kenda on dry pavement at 35-40 mph just by whacking the throttle open. I was even able to fishtail the Ryker at 65 mph on the freeway over wet pavement with the old Kenda tire... it was that slippery! The Yokohama will still break loose from a stop sometimes, but it's much more planted and it won't break free above 20 mph unless rounding a corner or a wet spot at high throttle. The difference is really night and day between the two tires. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Glad u got it taken care of the same day. Just a drawn out race to the finish at 4:30. Let us know how the tire works out. At the end of your video, it looks promising. So u think when the dealership change ur tire, do u think they clean out ur bolt holes if it was tough like urs was to put in? I doubt it.
Yeah, I just made it into their door at 4:58pm and they locked the lobby door behind me! I doubt that most dealer service centers would take the time to chase those threads. They would probably just power the bolts back in there and leave the problem for the next guy... just kicking the can down the road. James Thorne left a comment advising that it's not necessary to remove the brake rotor before balancing the wheel. So other Ryker owners might not face that issue if their tire shops have different balancing equipment (or better skillsets). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback! I wish that the floorjack's handle was removable, but it's fixed to the jack itself. My bigger problem was the offset from the rear wheel... I needed an extension to get a straight shot at the wheel nut. This hack worked out, and I'll be repeating the process again soon with my front wheels. I'll be pulling the front wheels to replace the tires and to install some aftermarket progressive turn signals. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I'm very interested to hear how you like the elka setup. I put the bajaron swaybar and endlinks on our Rykers and I can't say enough good things about them. They made such a difference in how the things behaved that I would recommend them to anyone with a Ryker as must do modifcation.
I've heard very good things about the BajaRon sway bar and end links... those might be next on my list of upgrades. I installed the stiffer BRP sway bar within 2 weeks of buying the bike, and it made a world of difference in front-end stability. The OEM end links seem to be the weak link (pun intended) in that solution, so I'll replace those first before going to a different bar. I'm hoping that a new set of street tires on the front (not the all-season variety) and a factory-zero re-alignment fixes my Ryker's handling issues. If I can get rid of the rapid darting from side to side, then I'll be happy. 😉👍 --QM
I don't agree with the darkside thing - it's an RT so car tire is just standard. DS is what the 2 wheeler call it. Hopefully you run the correct (low) pressure as most seem to be determined to shorten the tire life by way overinflating. 15psi front 20 rear is a good start. You should get 40k out of the tires if inflated correctly. Yes a 4 foot breaker bar is a sad reality of the "good and tight" mechanics.36 on the rear? wow way way too much drop to 20 or buy more tires
The Kenda tires on the Ryker have a "MC" classification on the sidewalls, so it's still technically a darkside conversion. 😉 Several of the Spyders have been fitted with this size Yokohama for many years, so this is nothing new in that respect. However, Cam-Am doesn't approve of anything other than the factory-spec Kenda tires for the Ryker... and those leave a lot to be desired in terms of traction and overall performance. The tire pressures specified by Can-Am for the Ryker are 20 PSI for the front amd 28 PSI for the rear. I've been running mine at 20/26 with good results so far. --QM
@@QuasiMotard As an engineer I design reverse trikes and over 13 years have seen a lot of misinformation on tires and pressures. On the RT and F3 12.5 to 17psi is recommended for the front and 28 for the rear. I don't know why BRP would recommend 20/28 for the Ryker as it is a lighter version and one would expect less pressure like 14/22 or in that line. This is why I cringe at the term Darkside as it will in general lead to misinformation and a bunch "feels like" engineering. I know extreme rear tire wear on all spyders running 28 on the rear is common and it's all center wear which says a lot about what is wrong. 45-50k is normal for all the trikes I design but I setup the specs. Just sharing my expert advise, you can do as you wish. No big deal.
I can't believe so many CanAm owners don't understand that Kenda and Kumho tires ARE CAR TIRES! Kenda are made in Taiwan, Vietnam, China, Germany and USA. Kumho are made in S. Korea, China, Vietnam, and USA. Neither of these companies started in the USA. They are made specifically for Can Am machines (motorcycles). They are flimsy 2-ply CAR tires that will not support the weight of a CAR which is why they have the wording "FOR MOTORCYCLE USE ONLY" molded into the sidewall. AGAIN, the wheels are a "J" type automotive CAR wheels and will not accept motorcycle tires because the beads are different. In other words ... YOU CAN'T PUT MOTORCYCLE TIRES ON A SPYDER OR RYKER. So you think you have done something "Special" by going "Dark Side". All you have done is put a car tire on a car wheel. It's not special and you can't put motorcycle tires on a Spyder or Ryker. They all come with J-Type automotive wheels so the idea that you have gone Dark Side is misleading. It's nothing special. You should learn about your machine so you don't embarrass yourself. TIRES Front tires: (15x5 J-wheel) Yokohama Avid S34FA 175/55R15 Kumho Solus KH17 175/65R15 Continental ContiProContact's 165/60 R15 Federal Formoza FD2 165/55 R15 Federal Formoza AZ01 165/55 15 Vredestein Quatrac 165/60/15 Vredestein Q5's 175/55R-15 Rear tires: (15x7 J-wheel) Kumbo Ecsta 225/50/r15 General Altimax RT 43/(45) 215/60R15 Yokohama Advan Fleva 205/55/15 Vredestein Quatrac 5 205/65R-15 Michelin Cross Climate Riken Raptor HR 215/60/15 Forceum Hena 225/60R15 Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 All-Season Radial Tire - 205/50R15 8 One other point to consider: The stock size is 225/50-15. Some folks like the 215/60-15 size better, since it makes the speedometer read a bit more accurately. Others like the 205/60-15 since it is the same overall height at the OEM. 🕷😎
Wow... take a breath! Do you feel better now? 😳 Nothing you ranted about discredits or discounts the facts of what I did with MY BIKE! I have spoken many times at length in other vlogs about these tires being automotive tires regardless of the "motorcycle" labels on the sidewalls. Installing an automotive tire on a motorcycle/scooter is the de facto definition of "going darkside." The crappy Kenda tires on this Ryker were an outright safety hazard because of their terrible traction on wet pavement. Unfortunately, authorized Can-Am dealers and service centers are NOT PERMITTED to install alternate tire brands on these machines, so I needed to think outside the box. I've owned 120+ motorcycles and scooters over the decades, including several Suzuki Burgmans and Honda SilverWings, and I've covered 2M+ miles... that's a LOT of tire changes. During that time, I've tried the "darkside" route on my scooters with varying levels of "success." Overall, it wasn't a great idea, and I reverted to proper motorcycle/scooter tires after a few thousand miles. So, next time you want to sh*t on someone else's work and experience, perhaps you should BUY YOUR OWN MACHINE, create a RU-vid channel, and make a video about YOUR experience! 🤣👎 --QM
I considered the tapered thread scenario and examined the bolts carefully before proceeding. The factory put so much thread locking compound in the bolt holes that it was necessary to clean them before reinstalling the bolts. Before cleaning them out, I was using over 40 lb-ft of torque just to start the bolts into the holes. That would have completely skewed the installation torque, and it probably would have galled/stripped the threads beyond repair. My preferred Ryker alignment shop ( www.thornolis.com ) advised that the wheel can be mounted on most balancing machines without removing the brake rotor... apparently, he does it all the time. It would be a lot simpler in the future to find a tire shop that can do the procedure without pulling the rotor. 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback, Eric! This tire replacement was a first-time, long-winded saga for me. I thought that it might be useful for any other Ryker owners if they decided to go over to the "dark side". Cheers! 👍 --QM
Yep, I noticed that. He probably thought better about that foolishness when he saw the .45 on my right hip. There are plenty of clueless, arrogant drivers in Houston. It's a daily challenge to get from point A to B in one piece around here. I had several more incidents that same day that were worse, including another genius in a Ford F250 diesel that came flying around from behind me (rolling coal to smoke me out) and then he locked up his brakes just to turn right into a parking lot in front of me (presumably trying to wreck me and make it look like I rear-ended him). I just edited them out of my vlog... DELETED! I'm considering moving out of Houston... maybe to another state (or country)... it's just becoming too aggressive and unfriendly down here. 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard that’s what Scotty Kilmer did! His channel has over a million subscribers. 😁👍 I’m in Fredericksburg TX. I have a 900 ace. Come visit sometime.🙂
The Yokohama tire is MUCH better than the original Kenda, in my opinion. My Rally had the all-season Kenda tire, and that thing was just marginal on dry pavement, and downright scary on wet pavement. The Yokohama has fantastic grip on dry and wet roads, so I definitely recommend it. I recently took my Ryker out on ice and snow, and the Yokohama sucked on that... absolutely zero grip... but that's a rare situation that I'll probably never encounter again here in southern Texas. My alignment issue was a different situation. The dealer where I had the new Kenda front tires installed also did a laser alignment on my Ryker. I think the tech was new or completely piss drunk because my bike was set with 2.5" of toe-OUT... it should have been 0.25-0.50" toe-IN. I had the bike realigned by a local shop and it's handling much better now. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@dustynmontague7557 Yes, the Yokohama still does well in grass and light gravel. I've ridden about 2500 miles on the Yokohama so far, and it has performed flawlessly except for the ice/snow trial. 👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback! The Elka suspension that I have on my Ryker is aftermarket directly from Elka Suspension in Canada. You can check out Elka's offerings for the Ryker here: us.elkasuspension.com/?s=ryker&post_type=product . Lamonster Garage also stocks/resells Elka suspension: www.lamonstergarage.com/elka-shocks-2/ . Can-Am/BRP does sell FOX shocks as accessories for all of the Ryker models, but I don't have any experience with those units. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Yes, there is a local dealer where I purchased my Ryker, but they can't install tires that aren't factory approved. That means Kenda is the only option, and I didn't want another one of those. This was a painful process, but the Yokohama is a much better tire and has a lot more grip for the Ryker's light back end. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Got ya. My Spyder is a 2021 I just bought last November, it only has 3000 miles on it so far. I’m in Chicagoland so no ridding during the winter. Can’t wait for spring to warm things up a bit! 🥶🥶🥶
I don't have any power upgrades in the bike now. I tried a RPS PowerKit3, but I reverted to stock. I'm not a heavy rider so maybe I just don't have enough weight to plant the rear tire. My Ryker has always been prone to spinning the Kenda rear tire on all surfaces, and especially on wet pavement. The new Yokohama has a lot more grip, so I really have to try to spin it now. 😉👍 --QM
Great video. I am thinking of buying the new PPA wheels for my Rally so I am seeking out a tire. By the way, what camera are you using on the bike? Great video and audio quality.
Thanks for the feedback, Jim! I've looked at the PPA wheels, but I don't know if I want to dump too much extra $$$ into my Ryker right now. I'm planning to completely rebuild my front suspension (e.g., new upper & lower control arms on both sides, new steering knuckles, ball joints, etc) so I can PERMANANTLY cure my alignment/handling problems. It's still giving me fits, so the only recourse now is to start hitting it with the big hammer and replacing parts. The camera that I use for most of my videos is the GoPro Hero 7 Black. That is mounted in a Ulanzi vlogging case and attached to the helmet with a MotoRadds chin mount. The microphone is from a Cardo Scala G9 bluetooth headset and it's plugged into the GoPro audio adapter. The combo works well and I just got lucky with the audio quality from that mic. You can watch a quick video here with my helmet setup if you're interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D_lbmLdenHU.html . Cheers! 👍 --QM
That is the RiderScan blindspot mirror. I've been using these for about 10 years or so, and they are a great safety aid in traffic. I was probably the first Ryker owner to show that on the windshield, and it's the most common question that I receive. You can watch my install video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gNQ-TtpdmeM.html , and you can find the product links in the video description. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I've been running my rear tire at about 26 PSI and it seems to handle it very well. I'm up to about 3500 miles on the rear so far, and it still looks like new. 👍 --QM
This tire is FANTASTIC on the Ryker Rally. I haven't experienced any VSS faults or other issues at all since installing it. This size of automotive tire is very common on some of the older Can-Am Spyders, so I knew it was a safe bet. The original Kenda all-season tire was terribly slippery even on dry pavement. I could spin up the rear tire anywhere below 45 MPH on dry pavement, and it would easily lose traction at 60+ MPH on wet pavement. The Yokohama sticks like glue, either wet or dry. I have over 4K miles on the Yokohama now and it still looks and performs like new. I typically run the rear tire pressure at 28-30 PSI for highway use (lower rolling resistance), and I'll occasionally drop it to 24-26 PSI for riding around town (softer to absorb bumps and more compliant ride). Can-Am recommends 28 PSI for the original Kenda tire, so this falls in line with factory specs. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Howdy! That's the MadStad Engineering adjustable windscreen: madstad.com/products/can-am-ryker-2019 . I installed the 18" version, but I think the 20" would have worked better for my situation. I discussed the fitment in this vlog: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1uzBj_NlMME.html I added a RiderScan Blindspot Mirror: amzn.to/3nJjXLp . If that one is out of stock, then there are several knock-offs that are cheaper and seem to work almost as well ( amzn.to/49WKaNu ). You can search Amazon or Ebay for "parabolic blindspot mirror" to find alternatives. This parabolic mirror really helps situational awareness in traffic because you can see 180° behind you. There is a learning curve to use it properly because the image is distorted by the mirror's convex shape, but it becomes second nature after a few hours of riding. It's very rare for me to be caught off-guard with a cager hiding in my blind spot while I'm riding with one of these mirrors. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Just to make your ride and your video a bit more enjoyable. Before you leave home on your ride remember people will make mistakes. Be patient with them. I see motorcycle riders all the time flipping the bird because someone else made a mistake. To improve your videos. Some of us watch videos and don't uphold that type of stuff. You've got a good video very informative. don't blow it with a short temper👍 I ride as well I know how it is sometimes you do all you can to do to make your ride right and safe, but someone will always not be paying attention and pull in front of you or pull over on you. I understand but, if you don't expect this to happen you better leave that pretty bike at home.👂but if you do expect this to happen. you won't get too Aggravated about it. All I care about is a good clean video have a great evening 👍
I haven't made a follow-up video yet about the Yokohama rear tire, but it's still going strong! I have ~3500 miles on it so far, and it still looks and performs like new. I'm sure that I'll get at least 15-20K miles out of it before it needs replacement. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Thank you for sharing the whole experience of the tyre change with us. I saw you had RideOn tyre sealent in your previous tyre. What is your experience regarding the RideOn product. Are you going to use it in your new Yokohoma tyre, too?
I have been using Ride-On for 10+ years, and I have only good experience with it! I have only seen it do its magic twice in all of those years , but those events prevented me from sitting on the side of the road with a flat tire. I have five fresh 8-ounce bottles of Ride-On with me now, so I will be refilling the tires tomorrow after the dealer service! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks for the valuable and prompt reply. I have a Ryker 600 and was thinking of using Ride-On in case there was a flat tyre due to a nail or something like that, it sure is going to be a big hazzle. Your video showed it clearly as the regular tyre repair shops were not equipped to do the repair & declined even to touch the wheel. Bottom line: I am going to apply Ride-On to all 3 wheels of my Ryker.
Yep, all good here... thx for checking in! I haven't had time to edit and post the ride report or the trip series yet, but I'll try to get a few videos out this week. The Arkansas ride was a cold one, and we ended up cutting it short because of the cold, rainy weather. The cold front that moved through Arkansas into Texas was no joke... 30-degree temps and 40+ MPH winds up in the mountains! So, we whimped out and headed back to Texarkana on Saturday afternoon, then completed the trip back to Houston on Sunday morning. I just returned today from another Ryker trip to the Texas Twisted Sisters in the hill country. I'll get those ride report vlogs out ASAP! 😉👍 --QM
I replaced the original all-season Kendas with the normal Kendas from the non-Rally Rykers. Unfortunately, we don't have any other options right now for the front tires. Kenda makes this proprietary size (145/60-R16) for Can-Am/BRP specifically for the Ryker. Hopefully other manufacturers will start making tires in that size so we have an upgrade option. The only good news is that these normal street tread Kendas don't seem to track rain grooves as badly as the all-season tread did. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Yes, the Can-Am dealers can install new tires, but they can only use the factory-approved Kenda tires. I didn't like the Kenda rear tire because the compound was hard and slippery... terrible wet traction. 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback and for watching the video! If you don't have a Ryker, then some of the challenges of Can-Am ownership might be a surprise to you... nothing is simple where maintenance is concerned on these machines. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The Yokohama is a radial tire, so I presume that it has steel cores/belts. The Ryker's tires are automotive-type tires even if their sidewalls show an "MC" rating. They don't have a round carcass and don't need variable load angles like a traditional motorcycle tire... it's just straight up and down like an automotive wheel. 👍 --QM
A local Spyder shop (James Thorne, thornolis.com) advised me that most shops should be able to balance the wheel without removing the brake rotor. Another Ryker owner in Oklahoma had their tire done at DiscountTire.com, and he told me that they also had to remove the rotor... so maybe it's just their Hunter balancer machines? Removing the rotor wasn't that difficult, but the thread locker was a real mess to clean up. Cheers! 👍 --QM
how much more grip does that tyre offer?..ive the standard tyres on my UK ryker rallye and it will do 60 in 4.5 seconds but the 1st 20 feet is wheelspin....is it worth the change?
I think the Yokohama is worth the change, but only if you mostly ride in warmer weather. The Yoko does well in both the dry and the wet, but it's rubbish on snow or ice! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TtCWNgmjhtA.html 👍 --QM
How many miles on the tire? I was getting a lot of wheelspin at first on my rally. I now have 1800 miles on it and getting the rear wheel to spin is actually kinda hard now. It bites compared to when I first got it. It really digs in.
Not yet. As far as I know, the Kenda tires are the only brand that will fit the Ryker's rims and don't require fender modifications for clearance. 👍 --QM
No, but that could be an option. I was advised by another Rally owner in Oklahoma that Discount Tire took care of his Ryker, so that was my first stop. I was advised by James Thorne (Thornolis.com) that it should be possible to balance the tire without removing the brake rotor, so I'll try that next time. 👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback! I'll be posting a ride report and tire review soon. The ride series will take a while longer to edit and post... I'm still working on stuff from July! 🤣 --QM
Did I miss something? Since when is Yokohama superior to anything? I had one set on an Impala SS and would NEVER own those cheap Japanese tires again for anything. A friend crashed his bike because those tires wouldn't stick to black ice when my Continentals went right around it. Like I said, did I miss something?
So far, the Yokohama has drastically better performance than the OEM Kenda all-season tire that came on my Ryker Rally. The Kenda was very traction-limited on dry pavement and downright scary on wet pavement. I was able to spin the Kenda anywhere below 40 MPH on dry roads and it would easily break loose at 60 MPH on wet concrete highways in Houston. If I have any similar traction or stability issues with the Yokohama, then I'll search for another high-performance automotive street radial... Continental, Dunlop, etc. The tire choices are somewhat limited in 205/55-R15, and the Ryker has very little clearance for anything wider or taller. --QM
@@QuasiMotard better performance meaning what? I never said the Kenda tire is any good. Where did you get that idea? I didn't say it was bad either. My set are great. But I will stand by what I said about Yokohama's. I'd go without before I'd buy Yokohama's, or Goodyear or Cooper anything for that matter. You must have not understood me. Just remember, the more plastic in the tire the longer they last. And the longer they last the less grip on the road they have. That's rule one of motorcycle and car tires. Maybe not so important with cars, but life and death on a motorcycle. Even if it is a Can Am. I use Continental tires exclusively for my bikes and cars and never had a problem with any of them. The bike tires do wear out quick however. Right now, I do have a pair of Michelin's on my Goldwing. I couldn't get Continental or Dunlap's at the time for it. Either one is good for bikes. The Michelin's are doing well. I fully understand the issues with trying to get Can Am tires at all. I'm not there yet, but when I am, worse comes to worse, I'll have to go back to stock. I'm not having any issues but I ride a big RT Limited and don't ride like a maniac. I've ridden motorcycles for over 45 years, coast to coast six times. Maniac just isn't worth it. Tire Rack does have a good looking Dunlop for the back: www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+DZ102&partnum=055VR5DZ102&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes And CARID.com has a Federal (corvette tire) for the front: www.carid.com/tires/165-55-r15/ But remember, these are for a Spider R/T and are car tires. But this is where I would have started.
@@dannysdailys You seem to be looking for an argument for unknown reasons. I didn't imply that you said anything of any sort... I simply replied back to your comment with MY personal reasons for changing away from the OEM tire and my impressions of it so far. If you have watched any of my other Ryker videos, I've always mentioned that the Kenda all-season rear tire was traction-limited for my riding needs. The Ryker is very different animal than the Sypder F3 or RT... it is much lighter, and I'm not a heavy rider. So the rear tire has always been very easy to break loose at any speed on my Ryker, particularly while cornering or on wet pavement. I have already encountered dozens of similar surfaces with the Yokohama over the past 1500 miles and it hasn't broken traction when the Kenda would have been spinning/sliding. I have also changed the front tires to the normal street tread Kendas instead if the all-season variety. The block spacing or tread pattern caused very erratic behavior over Houston's grooved concrete highways. The upgraded combination of the "normal" Kendas on the front and the Yokohama on the rear has nearly eliminated that behavior. My Ryker still tends to follow some grooved pavement and feel unsettled, but now it's about on-par with other vehicles. --QM
Yes, I did the front tires and another laser alignment right after this rear tire install. I haven't edited or posted that ride series yet, but I hope to get it out in the next week or so. The new front tires did help traction somewhat and they are more resistant to following rain grooves than the all-season tires that were originally on the Rally. Unfortunately, my Ryker still has an alignment issue... the front tires are already sawtoothed and cupped on the edges ofnthe tread blocks after only ~1000 miles. I've resigned to live with the problem and just not ride it for extended journeys... it's just too exhausting to fight it 99% of the time. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@glend3139 The only tires that will fit the Ryker's front wheels are the 145/60R-16 tires from Kenda. All of the Rykers have 16-inch front wheels, but the Rally edition gets an all-season tread instead of a normal street tread on the non-Rally models. Unfortunately, there are no automotive equivalents available in that size yet that we can use for alternate tires. Can-Am dealers and service centers are only allowed to install the factory-authorized Kenda tires on these bikes, so we have to be creative on our replacement options. The front fenders and related brackets offer very little clearance, so using a larger tire won't work without custom fabrication and other modifications to the bike. So, we're stuck with the Kenda front tres until another manufacturer decides to make something in the 145/60R-16 variety. Cheers! 👍 --QM
The Ryker is realistically a pavement-only bike. I've ridden my Rally on gravel roads a few times, but I wouldn't dare take it "off-road"... that's just inviting disaster. The Rally edition has slightly higher ground clearance than the non-Rally at 4.4" (112mm), but the radiator skims the ground at only ~5.0" (127mm) above rocks, twigs, branches, squirrels, etc. Considering the fact that these machines are ridden on the road 95% of the time, the all-season tires don't make much sense to me... especially considering those tires' limited traction on wet surfaces. --QM
I cleaned out the brake caliper (and fender support) holes with WD-40, then a shot of brake cleaner. I put blue thread locker on the caliper (fender support) bolts to keep things together. I also put some anti-seize on the wheel threads when I put it back together just so it wouldn't be crusty and stuck next time. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Yes, I checked the pads and rotors on all three wheels before that last trip. My rear pads still look nearly new... still over 3/4 of the pad material remaining. 👍 --QM
I need to check my records to be sure, but I'm thinking it is the Zero Gravity touring screen. I'll verify and reply back with the specifics soon! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Howdy, Bud! The screen on the Ryker in this video is the MadStad Engineering adjustable windscreen ( madstad.com/collections/can-am/products/can-am-ryker-2019 ), and it performs MUCH better for coverage and features than the Can-Am accessories. My height is 5'7" (170 cm) and I chose the MadStad 18" screen, but I would recommend the 20" instead for slightly better coverage. MadStad has a measuring recommendation on their site to help find the correct height. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback! I'll be posting a ride report and a tire review soon. The ride series will take a while longer to edit and post... I'm still working on stuff from July! 🤣 --QM
Sorry for the late reply... I'm just back from a road trip and catching up with comments. As @beowulf6240 mentioned, I got mine through SlingMods.com. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard No problem. Knew you were on an adventure in Arkansas. I'm sure you're trying to catch up on rest and everything. Hope you had a good time and glad you made it home safe !
I'm headed up to McKinney tomorrow to stay overnight. I'll be headed over to Tyler Wednesday morning for my 9am Ryker service appointment at Broadway Powersports. We will probably leave Tyler sometime after lunch and head up toward OKC. We will be the Mena, Arkansas area from Thursday until Sunday, and then we'll start back south into Texas. You can message me on Instagram ( instagram.com/QuasiMotard )or by email ( quasimotard@gmail.com ) if you want to try to meet up sometime! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@rykerdave8767 I'll be riding solo tomorrow morning... hammering the super slab from McKinney to Tyler on I-20. I'll be at Broadway Powersports from 9am until noon-ish and then headed up to OKC afterwards... no rush to get there, though. I'll meet with Nick in OKC, then we'll head down to Talimena to meet up with Adrian and we will start the Talimena Drive into Mena, Arkansas. 👍 --QM
@@rykerdave8767 Absolutely! I'm checking the maps now... it looks like Canton is about 2/3 the way to Tyler... about 80 miles from me now. I can stop somewhere in Canton to meet with you around 8am or so... my schedule is open for the day, but I'm trying to be at Broadway PowerSports as close to 9am as possible (to be first in the service queue). Drop me an email at quasimotard@gmail.com or message me on Instagram ( instagram.com/quasimotard @quasimotard ) and we can exchange mobile numbers. 👍 --QM
How so? Can-Am dealers aren't permitted to install "unapproved" tires, so the owner must do the work. Is there an easier way to remove the rear wheel and have a tire shop remount the tire?
My phone mount is a combination of 4 different pieces. The primary mounts are the BRP/Can-Am smartphone holders (one on each side, one for phone and another for GPS). However, I don't use the original RAM X-Grip that comes with that mount. Instead, I have changed to the Quad Lock mount, which uses a phone-specific case and a 1" RAM ball adapter to attach to the original double-socket arm. I have linked the parts below for reference: - Can-Am/BRP Smart Phone Mount: amzn.to/3wpJIE9 - RAM medium double-socket arm: amzn.to/343r09i (can reuse the existing double-socket arm from the BRP kit, but this one is aluminum) - Quad Lock 1" ball adapter mount: amzn.to/3bKTby4 - Quad Lock motorcycle vibration dampener: amzn.to/3vn8hBq I have installed similar setups on all of my bikes, so I can just clip my phone right into the mount without readjusting anything. The 1" RAM ball allows me the flexibility to mount other accessories instead of my phone (e.g., GoPro or GPS) whenever necessary. Cheers! 👍 --QM
