It doesn’t hammer the bottom end. The flywheels are bathed in oil and use roller bearings. It says that it’s an S&S shovel. And either way, those early Shovels, ‘66 to ‘69, with the generator case like the Panhead had a total loss oiling system. You won’t get a pound of pressure even idling at 850 rpm when at full operating temperature and using 20w50 oil. You’re better off using a 2 psi idiot light than a gauge so you won’t scare yourself shitless when you see the pressure drop off to nothing, especially if you’re using an aftermarket gauge.
@@Scottwhittysydney 😂🤣👍 You will defiantly save money that way. You "Do" know why the call them HD? It's not because of the name Harley Davidson it is because every time you look at it ... it coasts you a Hundred Dollars.👍
Sheridan Isashitstain what is it then? S&S do performance mods for Harleys, The shovelhead is just a type of engine, often found in Harleys, Not being an enthusiast of this style of bike I’d have to bow to your superior knowledge. So what is it?
The bike is pretty and the engine sound of the horse is the best. I will continue to subscribe to your channel. From South Korean RU-vidr Woongkham.👍👍👍
When I hear this I then spend the next few days pondering building a hard tail shovelhead. Then I remember how comfortable my sport-tourer is and go "nah". Beautiful sounds.
Some older systems were total lose systems and meant to leak. Even the rear chain oiler on shovelheads was total lose system. I built my current shovel 20 years ago and it only leaks from the rocker box's. Took about 8 years for that to start. I don't leak anywhere else, (knock on wood). The key to permanently stopping push rod covers and rocker shaft seals from leaking is to use the blue teflon seals. if you torque everything down correct and have flat gasket surfaces, let it warm up correctly, it should not leak. Use stainless bolts and stainless self locking nuts on your engine mounts, and use torque wrench they wont almost ever come lose. Mine still got same torque 20 years after I built it. Use a luggage scale to check your torque wrench with socket in a vise always before you use it. Don't trust it. Use heli coils in any aluminum case threads, the exaust threads in the head and spark plug threads and put plenty of silicone gasket sealer on bolt going into those threads (except spark plugs) , they won;t come lose or strip out from vibration. DO NOT USE LOCK TITE on those bolts going into aluminum. Use silicone gasket sealer.on the threads. It keep them from backing out from vibration and from stripping threads (Learned that from a very expensive 80yo race engine machinist in the 1980's).. Use anti seize on your sparks plug threads alway's so if you foul a plug and have to change it while its warm, less chance or stripping those threads. If you run Bosch platnum tip plugs, they will last 3 to five times longer. If you have to keep up with newer bike's, raise your gearing and use a case saver on you primary housing where it meets the starter housing. If the new bike's start doing 80mph on highway, don't even try to keep up, save your engine and your wallet. You will catch up later. if you ever take your inner primary off for maintenance, always change your shifter pawl carrier return springs and grease them good with lithium grease...They only cost a couple dollars. they dont break a lot but if they do, you have to take the inner primary off to change them. Don't strip the allen head screws off the pawl carrier. They are stainless and very hard to find at 1 3/8 length in stainless. Make sure you grease the pivot shaft and everything really good with marine grease when you rebuild your swingarm. If swingarm pivot bolt is stuck getting it off from rust because the last guy did'nt grease it right, don';t force it, you will strip out the threads in your frame. cut it off if you have too. New pivot bolt is a lot easier and cheaper to fix than stripping out the threads in you frame.
A hand jammer and suicide clutch.. this is what separates the men from the boys. 214,000 on my ‘52 Panhead in 17 years and never got tired of the rigid frame and jockey shifter. Even with no front brake, sometimes. You do have some busy feet while taking off from a stop while on a hill though.
Sweet! Been considering for a while making a "straight-on-the-frame" saddle a bit like this. Wasn't sure it would look as cool as I thought it would. But it does !
You cen buy or make a pivot for the front of the seat that bolts to the frame with U-bolt and put short springs on the back. Few dollars and you will be very, very thankful you did.
On my 82 shovel, I tuned it so that I could back the idle adjust screw all the way out and hand it to and observer, and the idle would drop to 220 rpm but not die, had and external mounted pump to keep it oiled.
