Doing the exact same thing. Bout a million other things I need to be doing this morning, but it's gonna wait until I get done with this video. Because evil garden Gnomes.
This looks like exactly the same problem I had when I was racing offroad karts in the 90's. The engine locator/adjuster mount vibrated loose, allowed the engine to move a little forward and torn through a belt. A few belts later we looked into it and it had ever so slightly warped both pulleys. We did the same thing as your shim by tightening the adjuster past its normal location thinking it would help and all it did was rip them up faster from higher tension. The problem was where the pulleys had warped they were allowing slight over extension and the result was exactly what you have there. It happened a couple more times on new pulleys after a while without the adjuster going out so we ended up bonding a loop of old drainpipe to the inner of the pulley. Just wide enough that the pulley could still go through its full extension but high enough that the belt couldn't fall into it anymore. It worked and we never had an issue from it again.
That was torcher.... at the end of the show,why isn't this stuff softening up? Where's the milk? Still sitting on the counter. when the scout master forgot the milk on a camping trip. Wee all chewed our mouths bloody on the captain crunch. The trips was the only time most of us got factory sweetened cereal
Jimbo, for future reference, paint the header wrap after install with high temp paint for headers etc. The company that manufacturers the wrap i have used in the past "DEI" makes stuff to do this on their wrap. Makes handling a breeze, and keeps those silly little fibers from angrily stabbing you a million times. Soaks it up though, so be prepared to really lay it on. Smokes like hell when you start it up the first time too, definitely do that outside. 😂
So with exhaust wrap get some high temp exhaust paint and really hammer the wrap in paint. Do this 2 or 3 times and it helps a ton with the fiber dust and second it helps the wrap from asorbing water. I do this on all my mini bike builds i do and it makes a HUGE difference. And cvt belts need to be heat cycled and broken in
I've been there! I had a manual transmission with a slow oil leak. Refilling it was a bear and I put it off for too long. It locked up at 100km/h on the highway. Thankfully it was a rear wheel drive, so the skid was very straight, but I needed a change of pants afterwards.
It would be both a logical and entertaining choice to improve the transmission system. If nothing else, even when this system "works" it is a MAJOR factor in how slow this car is. The shift times are like 1-2 seconds long and the main reason behind always starting in like third gear. No matter how much power you coax out of these little tiny engines this is always going to be a massive limiting factor that is only going to get worse and cause more issues down the line.
Has anyone ever told you you sound like Ray Magliozzi aka Clack from Car talk? I think that's what drew me in at first. I loved that show and being from the east coast, specifically Massachusetts, I grew up with them and miss it very much since Tom aka Click passed in 2014.
Just a small suggestion ... perhaps set up a cheap backup style camera pointing at the CVT pulley and belt so you can have a small monitor up on the dash that allows you to keep an eye on that.
Maybe im wrong. But Im not sure everyone can appreciate the hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars all of this custom design and fabrication work eats up. Love your narration and that you answer any questions I may have. And the fact that nearly every part is either a one off or super modified. Thanks for what you do as this goes much farther than the obvious. You are pushing physics and explaining engineering in such a cool and entertaining way. Just thanks for everything and please dont get frustrated and stop. Thats my biggest fear. Cheers
Although it was a different application, I remember fighting a similar problem with the belt riding too high in the drive pulley, even though the distance between the pulley centerlines was exactly where it was supposed to be. Alas, it was a LONG time ago, and I can't remember how I solved the problem! I'm going to go nuts trying to remember! Good video!
This was stated previously from someone else, but your driven and slave pulleys are not in alignment, which is a big factor in how long the belt lasts and the efficiency of the power transfer. Great videos and I appreciate your content!
That Future Jimbo guy seems like he knows what he is talking about. You should probably consult him more often. He probably would have warned against donuts on dirt. It was an epic burnout though.
Well at least you didn't have a long walk or have to hire a tow truck and you figured out what was wrong which is a good thing Thanks for the video Jim
Just wanted to let you know that I appreciate what you're doing with this channel. While I probably won't be doing anything like what you're doing, I feel like I'm learning something along the way, and I am quite entertained by it all. Keep doing weird things!
Love when you show the process of making parts or tearing them apart. I'm glad this episode was full of that! Also never expected the gnomes to return!
No pressure,! You fabricate stuff, sometimes it works right away, sometimes it doesn't. And then you take it apart, learn more about how it works, and you fix it. And we learn, too. Looking forward to next week's adventure.
Oh that awesome sinking feeling of knowing somethings wrong and you're doing everything you can reasonably do to try to get it back home before it all falls apart. Really gets the adrenaline going. Had that happen more times than I care on the various shitboxes i've had over the years.
Hey a fellow shitboxer with high optimism haha I once lost an alternator on my way to work. I was driving down the highway at 70mph when my radio quit, then my tachometer, then my speedometer. I shut everything off and drove quickly but gingerly and made it literally barely in the driveway at work when it finally ran low on voltage and shut off 😂 Luckily I was able to order an alternator and replace it right at work on my lunch, and drive home. Shitbox, the most fun and stress you'll ever know when it comes to vehicles 😂
I had a similar thing happen on a interstate when one of the pulleys seize up and chew up a belt about 3 miles out from work one day. managed to not over heat and the battery had barely enough juice to coast into work.
I drove 20 miles in the middle of winter to the nearest pizza place in my shitbox. Left it running, as you do at -20C/-4F. Came out to find the entire radiator spilled out on the ground. I made my way back home at 90kph / 55mph. That was a chilly ride with no heater. I managed to make it all the way home and there was no apparent damage to the engine. That little Datsun inline 4 took went through a ton of abuse and just wouldn't die.
Yepper you broke the rubber band. On my project I'm using a centrifugal clutch which requires gearing more specific towards your speed/ torque requirements. I've went the torque converter way and as your finding out was problematic with the vehicle weight. Converting to a snow mobile type torque convertor would probably take the load better but space is a premium..
Ready to give up on the torque converters? Try a multi v belt pulley arrangement with movable idler belt tensioner for clutching and overall gear reduction? That way you could use the car gearbox as intended and possibly a bit more efficient power transfer.
Just in case you didn't already know, adding the shim to correct the center to center distance will effectively increase your starting ratio in the CVT system because when the drive or primary clutch engages, it will take up the slack or deflection in the belt and run it up the sheaves. Less deflection means that it won't ride up quite as high in the primary clutch and give a (typically) more favorable starting ratio. And of course this can possibly affect the outcome of your tests... probably not too much though.
Yeah, a little folding e-bike that fits int he trunk or the back seat (so you don't add any drag or have to bolt anything on). That could pull your fat right out of the fire. :)
My dad carries an electric scooter in his suburban because he likes to drive notoriously unreliable vehicles and never put gas in them 😂 the number of times he's used that scooter I couldn't tell ya, but it's comical cause he's 61 😂😂😂😂
Thank you for another great video. Thank you for investing all of the time you do. I'm certain the time it takes to work on and test drive these vehicles while doing your best to film it in constantly changing conditions really adds up. And then all of the editing.. You guys really do a good job.
Italy belts I've noticed that some industrial equipment / parts come from China through Italy. Also, Comet isn't going to make their own belts, they are going to contract with companies like Gates / Dayco / Bando Comparing the marking fonts might pin down who makes it.
Like Jimbo said, nearly everything that comes from the Jungle Site is suspect; and that's mainly because the majority of items sold there are from Jhina, and EVERYTHING that comes from Jhina is suspect. The Jhinese wouldn't think twice about making a poor-quality belt and stamping "Made in Italy" on it. Shady is their Industry Standard.
having worked with export items in the past, relabelling and repackaging can sometimes cost more than the part itself, and thus the biggest "cost" is in whatever country does that, which means you are legally allowed to label as manufactured in that country. So buy parts from China for $2 and spend $3 packaging in Italy, and sell in USA at $50 labelled as Made in Italy.
@@johnfunk4313 I once visited a " factory " in the USA to look at a chain conveyor ( like a SF street car where a cable under ground pulls the car ) They were putting 2 pre made assemblies onto a pre made main assembly then installing another pre made part over the first 2. The item was filled with oil then packaged. These non US parts are now considered " made in the USA " or at minimum, " Assembled in the USA with imported parts " These items were destined for use in an assembly plant where US and import content % is officially listed.
@bobroberts2371 @johnfunk4313 As disturbing as that is - and as a patriotic American, I find it VERY disturbing - what I find even more frightening is the fact that American beef cattle (and likely poultry and pork as well) are being slaughtered here in the U.S., then shipped to China for processing, then shipped back here, and then ultimately packaged as "Fresh USA Beef". Having our immoral enemies processing our FOOD is terrifying on its own; but even if we naively believe they're not doing anything shady to our meat, just the fact that the raw meat is crossing the Pacific TWICE, in containers of questionable sterility, and then being sold as "fresh", is a huge issue to me. This info comes directly from cattle ranchers, who aren't happy about it, but don't have any control over it, because the USDA and FDA don't find anything wrong with it.
Hey man that was an awesome video!!! This is my favorite channel!Watching you limp the car back with the car back and finally having it quit takes me back to my teen age years and driving and Olds diesel on the back roads of Mississippi!!! Got in shape pretty fast with all the walking I did and no cell phones! lol. Have you considered a belt temp gauge? They make them for the belt driven CVT side by sides so you can get out of the throttle before you over heat the belt or if your tuning the cvt system it will help as well. Also how about putting a tach pickup on you driven pulley and then feed the engine rpm and the driven pulley rpm into an Arduino and have it set up to display the current pulley ratio as well, this way with the belt temp gauge incorperated you get an idea of your slippage that is occuring. It would also be cool if you could incorperate and belt tach to count the number of belt revolutions and tie that into your arduino and that way you could calculate ratio and slippage using all three sensors. Love the channel. Now I need to go put a turbo on my Kubota garden tractor and straight stack it out the hood! lol! Looking forward to your next video!
Interesing delve into the drive issues you've been experiencing. Good stuff to know when I do this to my cars. HA. No, I'll let you do that. I don't have an old Renault to use.
I enjoyed the thorough diagnosis of the clutch issues. Even though it's another delay in getting to test the things we want to test, it's still a valuable lesson for all of us to see how these things work at a deeper level. Entertaining and informative as always Jimbo!
Thanks for another amazing Sunday morning..❤ you inspired me to start doing car stuff on RU-vid i went from 200 to 600 subscribers in about a week racing on the nurburgring.
Hello ! I must say! Your video format spot on. The style and pre and post explanations are very good. Other channels are missing this ! Very enjoyable to watch and the “flow” is good. Just thought you should know. Oh ya the content is awesome to !! 👍👍👍😎
It would seem that the engine and CVT have been infected with "Because French" disease, where things fail for no reason other than Because French... :P
I know with my golf cart, if I don't buy genuine belts, they slip and get chewed up fast in the cvt clutch. I also increased spring pressure to deal with extra power from a rebuilt/built motor.
Make sure that those gnomes are happy! You're gonna need them to work on that CVT! The way that CVT's work is a mix of black magic and voodoo, take it from one who have worked on them for years 🤯 The belt does not just need to be the right length and width, also the angle on the sides needs to match the angles on the pullies. A belt that rides a bit high can also be fixed by putting a spacer on the driving pulley, so it can't go all the way in. The lack of gearing down, when lifting on the gas, can be fixed with a tighter spring on one end and/or a looser one at the other, but it's a fine balance between gearing down and up at the right revs, and a few good prayers and offerings to the gnomes will not hurt the process.
With almost no relevance to the renault, lightly watered down dish soap or laundry detergent makes an excellent improvised cutting and drilling lube. No worse for smoke than WD but it definitely lets you know when you're pushing too hard. 😉 Man, I've stopped buying critical parts from Amazon altogether. Too many fraud parts, even when you do your due diligence and investigate the seller with everything available. Not too hard to stamp a clone part with a label I guess, but it still bothers me to no end how many sellers get away with it.
I can't see a pair of 28mm flat slide carbs making any performance improvement, as with a 36mm CV carb, I would say that the engine is more limited by the cylinder head breathing, valve sizes and cam profile along with maybe the compression ratio too. If it can't safely rev to well over 4500 rpm or more, then it'd be no use making it better breathing. I really think that the biggest performance gain would be to get rid of the CVT, and adapt the engine output shaft to take a thrust bearing and bell housing adapter plate. The weak link will be eliminated then and you could start playing with tuning or a supercharger etc.
I can’t believe I haven’t thought of this yet but it is perfect for the channel do a rip from 0 to whatever you can get starting in first than in second and so on???? People will have a better understanding of the cvt
Wow, those pointy headed shop gremlins again, time to set out traps, I’ve heard a set of new spanners with some oil on them is a great way to attract them. 🤔
Yes sir, the k type thermocouples should work just fine with a single O2. That is how I set up my race motorcycles (just have 4 of them). However, once everything is set, you just ignore the readings anyway 😁
