Great video, excellent the way it was explained it answered a few questions about rebuilding the power steering gear on my 71 chev c10. Thanks much. Best video out there.
I'm a new Technician at a Chevy dealership and I just wanted you to know, thank you I learned a lot from the knowledge you shared concerning the steering gear box. Don't stop and keep doing more of these.
Oh man thanks for the Video! Your trick of the 5/16 hose wrapped 3 times in electrical tape worked perfectly! Plus removing the inspection cover to see ball bearing alternating in grey and silver really helped. I’ve rebuild the power steering box on 81 K5 Blazer years ago doing the method of feeding balls one by one around the worm gear and ended up damaging the worm gear tip and having to replace entire box! Packing bearings around housing first and feeding worm gear is a way better method.
Hey thanks!! I'm glad my tom foolery paid off for someone, even if it was on a crappy old video camera that sounded like you were on the deck of a creaky ship at sea.
I've watched your video several times and memorized each step, of course, without the ball bearing re-install. Im at the point where I can do a lot of this, just by watching it so many times. Now I'm ready to do mine. Appreciate the upload.
Thanks for the video. My '89 burban spilled its guts the night before a fishing trip. You know I was heated. Anyways thanks for being thorough and detailed. That's soo important. I started watching another guy and he was a wreck. So great job.
i used a peice of 1/2 cpvc and it worked perfect with no grease, you did a great job on the videos. I'm restoring a 85 442, and i find all your videos informative thanks and keep up the good work.
Excellent series!! Clear and concise. I couldn't get rack piston's Teflon seal into bore. Slipped a piece of 0.002" shim stock between bore and piston and it pulled in without any hang up. Also, I used transmission assembly goo to hold balls in place without need for tape wrapped hose or anything else. As I said, Hutch's video is great and I post only in case someone else runs into the same situation with rack piston. Thanks for making the video.
This is an awesome explanation and detailed video. In all honesty I will have my gear box rebuilt, but this arms me with questions I will have for the company rebuilding the unit. At least they won't BS me when I ask for their rebuilding procedure. I had my PS pump rebuilt and it still leaks. Thanks, keep up the good work.
is not about rebuilding the gearbox anybody can rebuild a gearbox.....the problem would be that t works how it should to work...there an amount of pressure per gallon that the gearbox should resist and the valve should work correctly and make sure the valve does not turn by it self on the truck....there is more key factors that u left ...but i give u my fully respect of going up there and posting this video!!
Just did the exact same thing. Guy at auto parts store said I couldnt do it.That pissed me off, just cause I a girl dont mean Im not skilled. Nobody works on my badass ride except me.Thanks hutchhipert for showing some tips. My dad told me when I was a kid,"TomiAnn.if you cant fix it it probably cant be fixed" ,I believed him
@@hutchhiperf I DID SOMETHING WRONG! hellllppppppp! well I was testing it out ,ya know turning back and forth, felt great then all a sudden it didnt, get out to inspect and DARNT oil everywhere and pitman arm thing a bop shaft races everything fell out, what happened, well ya I didnt do it right ha ha ha
@@gottagoat Not sure, but it will have to come back out to see. As long as nothing broke beyond repair, you're only into it for the price of a rebuild kit.
@@hutchhiperf yeah I got the exact same kit as you for 60$, no big deal, the big deal is I missed a day now maybe two not driving my car.Its what makes my heart continue to beat. A 1973 Pontiac Sports Coupe LeMans GTO, I just completed the Edelbroke Total Power Package RPM alumnium racing heads matching cam intake and my new AVS2 carb has only been on 4 days ,its the newest top of the line carb by Edelbroke , sooooo badass. I might have gotten a little excited about getting done with this and had to of missed a snapring, thats the only thing I had doughts about and that diagram was aweful and I dont know how you put that big ring in with fingers,must have strong fingers, I didnt have left over parts so maybe it just not setted well, we;ll see, come sunrise Im on it, thanks again for your videoes
@@gottagoat Since the brakes and steering are very much safety issues if done wrong, it may be worth farming it out to someone who's rebuilt a bunch before. Good luck.
Hi! i'm Truong from Viet Nam, do you have a drawn about this?( autocad file ). adress : hovinhtruongql@gmail.com ; thank you so much! Sorry for my bad english
Hi! i'm Truong from Viet Nam, do you have a drawn about this?( autocad file ). adress : hovinhtruongql@gmail.com ; thank you so much! Sorry for my bad english
You should check for your specific vehicle. If it"s a Saginaw 800 like what came in the 80's G-Body's it should have two seals. It would be single lip seal then washer then double lip seal then washer then snap ring. Unless the bearing wasn't pressed all the way in, they should both fit. Video 4 shows them being installed and how the bearing should look fully installed. Best of luck. Hutch
Actually quite easy. With everything installed, have the front tires off the ground (jack stands). With the fluid level at cold, start up the car and turn the wheel lock to lock several times. All the air will bleed back into the P/S pump reservoir. Check level again, and then later when hot. Easy.
And a note for the Scout II owners, our boxes have 2 sector shaft bearings P/N BH-2020. As for the ball bearings for worm gear, yes only 22 balls. 11 silver and 11 gray.
graet job realy , sadly we dont have the repair kit in egypt but i copied what u did and it helped alot in placing back the ball bearing , damn its pain in the ass
I've always used petroleum jelly on bearings in these even when rebuilding a Trans for the lil ball bearings in the valve body a lil coat of petroleum jelly(aka vasoline) an it holds them in place an the additives in Trans fluid an power steering fluid will break the petroleum down an after a couple hundred miles for my own sake I just pump the reservoir empty an refill with new fluid just for lil added measure same with a Trans I simply do a fluid filter change after a couple hundred miles to clean out any new break in shavings these are fairly simple things to rebuild longs you've got some mechanical sense an obviously some patients as them bearings can cause ya to wanna throw the thing.
Very true. Since it was my first I thought that part would give me a headache. Worked first time. My plan is to do a P/S flush after the install. Unfortunately as you can see by the other videos, I'm prob a long way off from that.
Now I see why most of these Remans cost $200 and have massive play, because nobody probably put in enough fuck as this guy did! Rack and pinion for life after my experiences!
He did :-) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UJ-89YhvAXU.html He (I mean I) just did it first because he didn't know it was going to leak like crazy.
Hi there! Thanks for the video! Can you tell me what size is the final o-ring that you put on the end cap? Would it, by any chance, be the same as the ones used on the power steering pump?
HHP - Great set of instructional videos. I rebuilt my Jeep psg, and it felt like total success, but I'm having a problem getting the adjuster nut to tighten. It will tighten, but it has not drawn in far enough to hold the shaft, so what initially felt like a smooth operating worm gear, piston and shaft develops looseness and binding. I have 2/3ds of my threads still outside the housing. Looking for a spanner wrench. Any other thoughts???
If I understand you right, you're talking about the adjuster plug that has the stub shaft sticking out of it. That should bottom out (22 ft Lbs) and them backed off 1/2 inch on housing.
as you put the valve assembly in the housing which includes the spiral worm gear and the adjuster plug that a spanner wrench would fit into.....the tension or preload that you are applying with a spanner wrench is really just swishing the oring between the assembly and the worm gear piece and also the oring between the adjustster plug and the cast iron gear housing right? makes me more hesitant to crank the adjuster plug down very tight b/c I'm afraid or damaging those two orings your thoughts?
wtf!! you quit midstream and dont have another vidoe??? where is the final assembly. You done an excellant job right up until now, why are you leaving us hanging?
As a professional steering technician with many years experience I will give you credit for even getting it together. I don't mean to show disrespect to you for your efforts but I wouldn't sleep well tonight if I didn't say, "Rebuilding a steering gear is something best left to a professional!" I have done countless "box" repairs. (Where the customer brings the thing in a million pieces in a box because he can't get it together) Worse yet I have fixed some very dangerous situations caused by back yard mechanics messing with their Steering system. I'm all for DIY but be very careful with your steering. This thing steers your car. It is life and death stuff. So you saved $100 on a OH gear. What is your life worth? (or someone else's) It's scary work for me to do, and I'm a professional! (Most shops will only replace a gear these days because liability for rebuilding it wrong is too great)My 2 cents. let the slings and arrows fly...
+Bertsblurts No slings or arrows. I was a line tech for many years, and I know what your saying. I plan to take it to a local rebuilder to put it on their pump system and run a full lock to lock test for function. I would recommend that to anyone. Good point sir.
I totally agree that it,s not a job for the average DIY saturday's mechanics but what I saw in this video is OK and the guy does a very fine job rebuilding the hydraulics of this gearbox. My concern is abour the wear of the piston and sector shaft teeth but there is no safety issue with that
Great video. I followed your videos exactly. (Mine is a 1980 Scout II version). My issue is it works fine for a few minutes then blows the pitman seals and snap ring out the bottom. It happened again after I reseated them. I'm stumped. Any ideas?
clhman I would try a new seal kit (just the pitman seals and snap ring. The two seals are different. When you install them put the snap ring in but not seated in the groove. Push the snap ring in with a screw driver until you hear and see it seat. Make sure it is seated fully all the way around. A few people have had this issue and the snap ring was not seated all the way. That's just me guessing from my chair here. Let me know what happens. Good luck.
I noticed that you didn't mess with the pitman shaft adjuster. If I already disassembled this from the aluminum cover what is your recommendation for getting the adjustment pretty close? I'm thinking turn the adjuster with the allen wrench till it bottoms out and then back off quarter to half a turn??? I have chassis books for my 60 and 66 full size GM's and Chiltons and none tell how to do this.
@@hutchhiperf Thanks. I'll give that a shot. Between the pitman and the rack I can see the polishing of where these guys mesh. Worst case worse case I might be able to get them very close by meshing them without the pitman cover and measuring from the cast iron body to the tip of the adjusting screw. The one with the female allen tip. What do you think? Thanks and God Bless
Need help! Followed your videos, now the car turns to the right by itself. What could be wrong? (i dont mean that the car drifts off to the right, the box automaticly turns all the way to the right!)
Excellent videos. Question...the rack piston plug that gets torqued to 75 ft/lb. You didn't go into detail about how you torqued it. On my box, when I turn the plug with a torque wrench, the whole rack piston turns with it. So, how'd you keep the piston from turning while you torqued it? Thanks!
Sorry about that. Looking back at it I did kind of gloss over that. I may have edited out the explanation by accident. With the Sector Shaft (or Pitman Shaft) installed I was able to slide the Pitman Arm back on temporarily and put that end in my bench vise. With the teeth of the Rack Piston and the Pitman Shaft meshed together you can torque that bolt.
Are the sector shafts interchangeable? I’m attempting to put the Monty Carlo box on my Caprice but the spline pattern is different. I’m thinking I can swap sector shafts. I can’t find a Pitman arm that will work.
Hi I just tried to rebuild the steering gear box andeverything is done, but I realized, that everything is turning very heavy by testing?! Is it usually or something wrong? Sorry for my bad english I'm from Luxemburg.
Did you see Video Part 1 on this? I did it a little out of order. I went to do an adjustment only on the steering gear, and it leaked like crazy when I finished (old seals). I forgot to say "Go back to Vid 1 when completed." Are you rebuilding an 800 like this one?
I bought the full kit for a saginaw steering box and installed it piece by piece with your video. It worked for about 2 months and then blew out all the hydraulic fluid when the cold weather arrived. I suspected the stub shaft oil seal was not far enough onto the stub shaft. Bought a new seal reinstalled it, now the unit will not fill up with fluid from the pump. Do I have to take out the entire worm shaft in order to install the stub shaft as one piece?
Sorry to hear that. I assume the leak was from the stub shaft side. There are a lot of o-rings and seals in there. 6 o-rings on the valve body, 1 on the valve spool (which is tricky to install without cutting the o-ring), and 1 on the worm shaft where it attaches to the valve assembly. Then there's the o-ring and seal on the adjuster plug too. Why it blew out and now won't take fluid is unfortunate. I don't see a way around not taking it back apart. Search the web for your leak issue and see if there is a common cause. Not exactly accurate, but may point to a common failure cause. Let me know what happens.
Yes, it blew out fluid from the stub shaft, I took accurate measurements at the point where the oil seal just below the dust seal makes contact with the stub shaft. If not seeted down far enough this seal will not hold fluid. Looks like it is a problem with the valve section at the stub shaft. The steering fluid is not entering the gear box, so it must be a alignment problem between the worm shaft and stub shaft. Hey your video is excellent, just a small glitch on my part!
thanks. great video instruction. I will be doing to my 98 Ford econoline with power steering box. i have alot of play in the steering and dont really feel like coughin up $230 for a rebuild box. But i wonder if this will solve the play on the rack. i see the rebuild kit only contains gaskets and seal. my box is not leaking or anything just have alot of play. i was thinking about adjusting the hex key but alot of ppl dont reccomend that method instead adjust it from the input shaft where i bottom out the locking thingy and turn a quarter back like you had on your vid i believe its part 3. any suggestions? thanks again for making the video.
Roy Arpon Before touching the box get the car up on jack stands in the front. Support it by the frame if you can. Check every inch of the steering linkage. Grab the wheels and move them side to side (as if turning R to L) to check for play or bearing looseness. I will bet the play is in a ball joint or idler arm etc. If you saw in the video, my box was dry until I did those adjustments, and then it leaked all over my bench. Do the adjustments to the box LAST after checking everything else. Good luck.
Thanks for the Reply Hutchhiperf, I checked everything and most of the suspension part came out ok. i adjusted the steering box and now there hardly and play on the steering i ended up turning it half way and it seems like it fixed the problem.
+Mark Pikas Ha Ha You have to go back and look at the first video (part 1). I did the adjustments and then it leaked all over my bench. When done, go back to 1 for the adjustments.
+hutchhiperf lol. I forgot about that. maybe you should annotate the end of this video to that effect. ;-) I just spent the last two weeks trying to find a proper rebuild of my HX (12.7:1 high effort) box in my Trans Am only to find that no one has one (all the part numbers I found that are supposed to be close ratio boxes have turned out to be 15.5:1 or 14:1 boxes and all but one of the rebuilds that I've seen look like complete junk) so I right how have a neat pile of cleaned parts on some blue shop towels waiting for reassembly ;-) so your series has proved entertaining and helpful when I'm sitting still (for the most part you've done it in and easier order and more complete than the others I've seen except for I would have removed the lock nut before pulling the end cap). So far nothing has gone as easy on mine as on yours. Heck I had to destroy the end cap retaining ring to get it out :-\
+hutchhiperf I found a couple of hours to work on it last night, I have all the subassemblies put together, it's just a matter of getting them in the case, and I have a question an a comment: Did you have any leftover parts from the duralast kit? Mine had a 3rd snap ring slightly smaller than the one retaining the seals on the sector shaft end (that one doesn't have me too worried since I'm pretty sure I've read about their being 2 different ones, one bigger and one smaller, so I just matched up mine to the ones in the kit), and 2 o-rings that have me a little concerned that I missed something. One that is close to the same size as the one that goes on the spool valve, and one about that diameter but heavier (I haven't pulled anything out of the steering gear that even looks like that). Secondly in your series when you messed with the spool valve you had some problems with the o-ring being too big and you even commented that you didn't know if it was the o-ring or something else. My spool valve o-ring came off in good shape and I got to compare it and the only one that was close was actually slightly too big. I even tried putting the original back on and it was easy to drop it in. I ended up doing something like you did, I found that when I put some grease in the bore it did slip in without pinching the ring.
I had the same o ring leftover issue. Scared the crap out of me. I counted I think 8 off the drawing and I counted what I took out and it was 8 so I calmed down. Not sure what those were for. Different box perhaps...
THE VIDEO WAS GOOD BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT PART THAT EVEN MANUAL DON'T SPECIFY WHAT BALL GOES FIRST BLACK OR SILVER AND SOME HAVE 24 BALLS.YOU MENTIONED ALTERNATE MANUAL SAYS SAME THING BUT WHAT BALL SHOULD GO FIRST.
@@hutchhiperf THANK YOU! i've started with the black balls and alternated.one last question on the largest teflon seal for gear box ,how do you keep it from expanding?i looked to see if any one made a tool no luck .
@@dong7187 Just wet it well with P/S fluid. I found that if you slide them on very slow and even, once they are in their grooves they shrink back a little.
At 3:30 in the video, I have a question about the worm gear "O"ring. Does it sit on the end or is there a groove? Mine dislodged when I was replacing just the input seal. (not a full rebuild) I stuck it in the piston with grease and re-assembled. Now I am worried as I didn't see a groove for the "O"ring.
It's a recess not a groove. The O-Ring sits in the recess at the top of the steering worm. Here is a great pictorial I referenced when doing mine (as well as the GM shop manual). www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0801-saginaw-steering-box-rebuild/
hutchhiperf I hope the "O"ring seated itself on the worm gear recess. I kind of did this back ass but the steering box seems to be working. Thanks for the link.
Jarrod Barr ive read on the internet if you over thighten the adjustment screw on top of the box it would bind the gear together and eventually break the teeth on the gear.
