I watched both videos all the way through and I'm telling you it was suspenseful to me to watch and listen to you explain explain everything word for word. I'm learning a lot from your videos but i know I have a long way to go. I'm 67 now and I don't know how long my mind will hold out but I'm going to try an keep it going for awhile. Please continue with your teachings. I remember all the schooling I went through in the Air Force and Now your tutoring has brought back all the memories. I've got a whole list of things I need to get but in general, I have a few of the items I need. It'll take me 3 or 4 months to gather up testing stuff. I'm actually thrilled and my mind seems to be ticking better. Thank you for all the instructions on all of your videos.
Firstly a quick Thank You for your service. That out of the way, Hope you're still doing well this last couple of years & I'm sure keeping the mind active with things that challenge it is the key to making it last as long as the body can. I'm only 40 and lots still to learn, but it's almost as if you can feel the grey cells go to sleep if they're not used enough! Good health, 73s out
living in Kenya I had a problem on buffer board due to voltage spike. ordered a new board and replaced only to find 2 black horizontal lines across screen,watched 12voltvids and problem solved with buffer connectors not seating correctly,many thanks to the video and Samsutech Corporation Kenya for your prompt service,Asante Sana!
Just an update, as of Feb 24, 2021 this TV is still working, cracked screen and all. It has some really nice screen burn now doe to the local TV station with their logo on the screen. I watch the news on this set every morning, and the morning news runs the 3/4 format with a colorfull advertising graphics and ticker on the bottom that has totally burned the screen, so they show up on everything else, but it was a free TV, that cost me 25.00 to get going. I will run it till it pops.
great videos mate.You are a great source of information and you keep your explanations and way of fault finding very easy to follow and understand.i enjoy watching your videos.keep them coming👍
Alex Alvarez Believe it or not this is only the 3rd plasma I have repaired.The first was a bad bootstrap capacitor in the soft start for the power supply, the second was the LG 42 with the 2 caps in the power supply, I was given that set the same day as this one, and this one had an actual problem.I did take a factory training course that Sony put on 15 years ago when I was working at a Sony authorized service center, but never got to put the training into practice, and back in the day, any board failure was only serviceable by buying a new plasma panel, and the Y and X sustain boards.The buffer chips were on the glass for both the A board (address) and the Y sustain. I have a few more sitting here that I am going to tackle and get them going. I really like the picture of the Plasma sets, and this one looks fantastic. The crack isn't even noticeable from a distance.
That was good that you showed the symptom when the connector caused that picture problem at the top of the screen. I would never have guessed that. I was thinking initially that you had another bad board, as my set did the same thing, and the tech that fixed it replaced the entire board.Now I think it might have been just a bad connection.
Thanks, I did all you said to here and everything is functioning properly. I also watched many of your other videos looking for help on why my plasma samsung turns off and on randomly. I found out it is a heat issue. With the back off of the tv it runs fine and only shut off once within an hour and came back on fine. I put the back, back on and it turns off within 10-15 minutes and gets worse as time goes on. I've tested it many times both ways i just explained and get the same results every time. Do I have a heat sink issue?
Great deduction on resolving this issue; it is to bad the manufacture does not listen to the general population. With all the cover ups in other products it makes me wonder if they knew they had a problem with the design. Additional protection in the buffer board and control board may have saved the plasma screen from being damaged. "Great video and very informative"
The bad display under means one of those spider IC on the buffer board is bad. If the symptoms appear down the screen, it means the spider Ic by the down side is bad. The position of the screen problem correspond with those spider IC POSITIONS. THANK
Hello 12voltvids, thanks for all this sharing. I have exactly the same pcb and the Tcon with green light. If the TV is hot and we switch off it, it won't turn on immediately, until we wait 24 minutes. During this time, the green LED flashes very slowly (1 per 5s) and after 25 minutes, and many on off on off, the green blinks one time per seconde. Apparently, the frequency of this blink indicate a failure coming from another pcb? Thanks
Question: Panasonic TH-50PZ80E It's not turning on. After blinking green, it goes to a blinking red light.It still 'clicks' nicely as it's always been doing, so it seems very healthy, and there's never been any issue with the image. It just doesn't turn on. For a while, it helped to hold a remote button pressed to help it 'wake'. But it worked less and less. As if it gradually struggled to be turned on. Any ideas on this is greatly appreciated. (A local tv rep. guy diagnosed it as being 'something' with the main board.) But he didn't say what. I think he wasn't able to diagnose it as it is many small components.
Gordon Freeman My wife is very happy with the new TV in the bedroom.She said she might actually enjoy watching tv in bed how.Went from a 27 to a 51.The TV was free, and 35.00 for a used board, including shipping and receiving fees at the ups station.
Great video! I learned a lot from this - thanks for producing this. I have a question, I have a 55" inch plasma, guts look very similar to what you have here as a sample. I have vertical lines - you stated that vertical lines indicate a bad panel, and it is shot - is this for every single case of these? Line started as a dim white/mulitcollored strip then it just turned black. At times, now, one entire half becomes full of white bars - flickering on and off.
Hi i have a samsung pn50c450b1d 50" plasma and it has vertical solid black lines. Id say about the exact same size as the bottom ribbon cables. Can u please tell me if it is bad panel or bad board? Thank u for ur time in advance.
Wait a minute! I have seen both of your videos about this TV set! In the end what was causing that wrong ¨heart beat¨ meaning the that the green led of the logic board was blinking 5 seconds on, 2 seconds off...WAS NOT the failure of the buffer board (although wrong also) BUT the ¨little IC¨ you discovered on the back of the Y-sus board ! I understand it so from this video because from the other one you let us to understand that that wrong heart beat was because of the buffer board failure only !Is it correct ?
Amazing stuff! Thanks for sharing, and I am sure you are right with regards to the crack! This sort of problem with Plasmas is why I prefer LCD or LED TVs.
GadgetUK164 I'll still take a Plasma over an LCD or LED TV any day. You are talking apples with oranges when comparing the picture.Sure on bright scenes LCD looks fine, but for subtitle pictures the plasma wins hands down. OLED is the future, once they get the price down.
+pico 740 Well, the new OLED do, they blow them away, but the price also blows them away. I was looking at a 65" 4K OLED. It was only 10 grand!Until the price of 4K OLED drops, I will keep watching my Plasma sets. I have enough of them around here to keep me in plasma quality until the OLED become affordable.
@@12voltvids I have to say.. when I saw in the previous video.. that you removed the silicone from the solder paths in bad buffer IC of the replacement board 🙂...... I thought you were going to take off the hot air solder station .. and replace the bad IC .. with one of the working ones from the original board 🤔....
Parts were obtained from shopjimmy.com this is not an endorsement, and they are not paying me a penny for the plug. The first board received was defective, but they did make good on the warranty, and because the board was under 25.00 did not even require the return of the defective board. Their customer service was wonderful, and the replacement board was shipped out the day I contacted them, no questions asked. Other suppliers I have used, whom will remain nameless have not had such good customer service. trying to warranty a part and having them say it was blown up by improper installation is the norm with some suppliers, even though they were selling counterfeit parts in the first place.
+12voltvids Shopjimmy is a good parts source and they stand behind their parts.I have been using Shopjimmy for 3 years now and have not been disappointed.I am sure they will make it right.90 day warranties on all their parts.
I got a new SD lower half buffer board on the way. Mine is intermintant on lower half of tv. Sooooo i revived a video card by bakeing it Is it a short or will it kill it. Its i termitand and i hand reseated all robbons on the left side and the board connect slot
I got a tv similar to this one when it turns it immediately switches off. I change all of the boards except the power board but still nothing. When i disconnect the small connector from the power board to the tcon board it stays on but nothing on the screen but shuts down after about a minute... could it be a bad power board
Hi, I have a 43" plasma pn43d430. The pixelation shown on the lower portion of the screen in this video is what I have on my whole screen. I checked the buffer board as you did and did not find any shorts along the pins. Any ideas what else I should test? Thanks.
It will be a bad buffer board. If the buffer chip shorts you will be able to measure it. The original buffer board was blown, and shorted which shut the power supply down. I ordered a used board, and this was the result. No shorts, but one chip was not functional. When I put my finger on each chip one by one, all of them were warm except for the bottom chip as it had failed, in an open state.If you get horizontal distortion line this on a plasma, it will always be one of the Y buffer chips. If the distortion was in the vertical direction, then it is one of the address drivers, which is part of the panel, and thus can not be repaired.I have another panel that was given to me with a single green line about 2/3 across the screen. I gave it to my kids for video games. Now the phosphor is burning on that stuck on green subpixel so the bright green line is fading quickly and is no longer noticeable.
okay so i just watched this video, so I have a plasma here and it has a stripe going vertically through the picture it's black. So is the plasma panel broke or the y-buffer board. I didn't quite get that in your explanation. thank you
Vertical lines (either black, red green or blue) is mostly always the panel. How a plasma works is the panel is pumped, or charged by the Xmain (or Zsus on lg, SS on panasonic) The X main, is connected to all the main electrodes that run across the screen starting on the left side (looking from the front, the right side looking from the back) The Y buffer board connect to the individual electrodes that run also across the front of the screen in a horizontal plane between the common main electrodes. Of the screen is a 1080 set, there will be 1080 main electrodes all connected together, and 1080 "Y" buffered electrodes that sit between the common electrodes. As the TV scans top to bottom, a discharge voltage is applied to each of the Y buffered electrodes line by line top to bottom. The potantial difference is not great enough to ionize the gas to produce plasma. On the back side of the panel there are the address electrodes.These sit behind the red green and blue sub pixels, and when a specific line wants to turn on a pixel, a pulse is fired up the address electrode which cases the gas between the common electrode and the buffered electrode that is selected to strike. Once the gas strikes plasma is produced along with UV light and that in turn excites the phosphor in the sub pixel and it glows. Once the cell strikes it continues for the remainder of the sub frame (usually 1/600 of a second) untill theXmain initializes a stop pulse that kills all the panel, resets it, and prepares it for the next sub field. The vertical address electrodes are driven by chips that are hot bonded onto the flexible tabs on the bottom, or top, or both sides of the panel depending on the design. If one of these chips fails, you get a vertical line. If a buffer chip fails you get a horizontal like.
I have a question I hope you can answer. I have this TV it's 3d, and before the picture stopped working I can't get the tv to come on there were vertical lines on the right side which is the Y side of the TV. I was thinking it's the Y Board and maybe the Y Mainboard can you help?
Revelation Video Productions I have a D550 as well in my shop, that is the same set but the 1080, 3D version that a co worker brought me. On this one the Y sustain board was failed. There are components that are blown to pieces. I should do a video to show this set. At this time it hasn't been decided if it will be repaired. If it was my set I would probably look for a used Y sustain board while keeping in mind that the Y sustain could have blown the buffer board. But the owner of it is sitting on the fence as to what he wants to do with it. so it is sitting in the corner of my storage unit. Typically when a buffer board goes south it causes horizontal lines in the picture as the y buffer is what switches the individual rows of pixels on as you can see demonstrated in this video. The bottom 1/4 of the screen is missing/scrambled..Vertical lines on the other hand is most likely the actual panel that is bad.The control board passes the Y axis control signals to the y sustain board, and the y buffer board for the timing through t he y sustain board. The X axis (or vertical timing) is passed directly to the A board, which is the long one that runs along the bottom of the set. As you will notice the A board has no active components, it is just an interface for the flexable ribbon connectors on the bottom edge of the panel. The A drive ICs are mounted on this flexable ribbon connector which is part of the panel.If you want to see these look at my Plasma tear down where had one with a cracked screen that I dissected the screen.
you kind of lost me the panel looks fine I'll have to watch the whole video to understand more I was watching right before I had to leave for work so I was rushed earlier
Revelation Video Productions Plasma panels have 3 drive signals.A set of horizontal electrodes connected to the Y buffer board. These handle the switching from 1 row to the next during the scan from top to bottom. Current is supplied to the Y buffer from the Y sustain board. The common horizontal electrodes that are spaced between each of the electrodes going to the Y buffer go to the PCB on the right side of the chassis (looking from the rear) Samsung calls this the X main, and LG refers to this as the Z sustain.The 3rd set of electrodes run up and down, and these have their own drive IC as part of the glass panel. This is known as the A or Address driver.The address drivers scan left to right as the Y buffers are scanning top to bottom. To turn the pixel on, a pulse from the Y sustain board triggers the pixel at exactly the right time, and the pixel remains lit until the X main (Z sustain) fires a pulse that extinguishes all the pixels and then the process is started again.If the Y buffer fails, you will get a symptom like seen in this video. Lines in the pix that go horizontally, or missing lines, or stuck on lines that go left to right.If one of the chips on the A driver goes bad you will hev lines that run top to bottom or missing lines (black).These chips are part of the glass panel and can not be replaced. So if one of the address drivers is blown the entire panel is done.
Great video... I have a question.. I have a Samsung 2012 plasma 60 inch. Alll my voltages are good but cycling on and off... main board issue you think?
I have a PN50D400 but the back looks just like yours, the difference is mine won't start and the green light is not blinking like yours, mine goes on, blinks a couple times, than is 5 heart beats and than goes off for a few seconds, starts again with 2 fast blinks than the 5 and off again, do you think it might be the Plasma buffer too? I fist started watching some videos about the clicking sound and no power, they all talk about the capacitors going bad, but mine look good.
That is blinking out fault codes. 2 blinks plus 5 blinks means that there are likely 2 faults detected. If you google your model you should be able to find meaning of the 2 different codes. The set is going into shutdown, and it generally means a failure on either the xmain, ysustain, or y buffer.Try disconnecting power from the xmain and see if the code changes. If not try disconnecting power from the ysustain and see.I don't know if you saw part1 or not, but I show how I found the bad buffer chip measuring it with a meter for shorts.
This is the same exact model TV that I have I have a whole bunch of vertical line going all the way across the tv is it possible that it may be the buffer or something else?
Thank you for this detailed video. I do have a Samsung pn59d550c1f that blows the 10A fuse on the power supply board when the main board is connected to that power supply. When the main board is disconnected the fuse remains OK. Does this mean that the main board is bad? Thanks
@12voltvids I have to say.. when I saw in the previous video.. that you removed the silicone from the solder paths in bad buffer IC of the replacement board 🙂...... I thought you were going to take off the hot air solder station .. and replace the bad IC .. with one of the working ones from the original board 🤔....
Thanks for the educational video. Sadly, I could not rescue mine. Two of the edge connectors that mate with glass (y buffer board side) got stressed out somehow fractured then the holes got burned away by arcing current too far deep into the glass do anything with it. Shame on Samsung and poor design!
Hi. I have Samsung plazma, that i got free and no working. Syptoms were clicking about 4 times, like trying to reload, then going to lock. Took apart, found that middle logic board disconnecting from power lets start tv, but without picture, ordered replacement but to early, later found that disconnecting X Buffer lets start aswell and even with connected logic board. Then found, that looks like main board been pushed to close to X Buffer and found dark component (from sparking) on X Buffer.Looks like was shortcut. So belive X Buffer need to replace. But what can be burned on X Buffer? Dark is around metal wire, maybe fuse etc, which looks like square bridge.
I have a 2014 Samsung Plasma TV (PN51F5500) that has developed a one pixel wide solid steady green vertical line that goes from top to bottom on the right side of my screen. It does not flicker and it's there no matter the input, coax, hdmi, etc. I've done a bunch of troubleshooting from voltage checks, to putting pressure or wiggling on the screen flex cables, to inspecting and cleaning board to board ribbon cables, and nothing shows problems or makes any difference to the screen, except for one thing. When it comes to the two ribbon cables that go from the tcon board to the bottom buffer boards, if I disconnect the left side ribbon cable, so only the right side of the screen gets image, then the vertical line becomes a solid steady blue instead of green. Then when I reconnect the left cable and disconnect the right cable, so only the left side of the screen has image, instead of it being a flawless picture, it has four vertical lines in the picture. Three of those lines are only one pixel wide, and the fourth looks to be two or three pixels wide. The wider line is a purply/black color, two are black, and one is green. Those four vertical lines are closer to the center of the screen and are all spaced about an inch or two apart, but are not equally spaced. When I reconnect the right cable (so both tcon ribbon cables are connected), everything goes back to as it was before disconnecting any cables, with the screen being flawless except for that thin green vertical line on the right side of the screen. I should also mention that about a week ago the tv did a firmware update (2230->2240). I didn't notice any problems between then and now, other than maybe what I would call a bit of slow motion here and there when specifically playing PS4 games, but that very well may be due to just the console and not the tv. I did speak to Samsung about this and they say there's no problem with the firmware and that's definitely not the problem. They also confirmed that the firmware can only be updated and never reverted for some reason. If I assumed there's not possibly a bug in the updated firmware, then it would seem to me that the likely cause is either tied to the screen itself (including the chips on the directly soldered flex cables) or some fault with the main processor board (because the tcon is built into it on this tv). If it were the processor board, then it would cover both a potential hardware or firmware problem with it. I'd buy another processor board but even at used prices they are expensive enough that I don't want to waste that kind of money if it's not the problem, but I do want to keep the plasma going if possible. I'm curious as to what you think? I know a solid steady colored line typically means a screen issue, but I can get the line color to change by disconnecting one ribbon cable, plus the opposite side of the screen shows lines as well with the other ribbon cable disconnected. It makes me question whether or not it is the screen that is actually the problem.
Awesome video Sir ! Really useful and simple to follow. I too have a Samsung plasma tv PS43D450A2 model with horizontal black lines in the middle part of the screen. Quite similar to problem discussed by Andre Aguiar. The voltages on all test points of the power supply, y-main board test points read fine. But when i test the voltages across the resistors on the Y-buffer board, i found that the voltage is fluctuating between 45V and 30V. It keeps dancing up and down on all the resistors across the y-buffer board. I felt the ICs on the board with my fingers and they were all warm. Nothing too hot or cold. Is this a voltage regulation issue from the y-main board or a y-buffer board issue? Little confusion here ;-) The heart beat on the logic board is good. I have tried re-seating the flex cables on the y -buffer too. The only thing bothering me is the fluctuation in voltage across the resistors on the y-buffer board. Could it be bad capacitors on y-main board? But the test point voltages on the y-main read ok. So the confusion haha. Any feedback will be really helpful. Thanks n regards
The buffer board can cause the voltage to jump. Disconnect the buffer board from the y sus board, then measure the voltage across the ysus. If you get 55v and something within 205 and above, then it means the ysus is good, probably the buffer board cause the voltage to drop. I usually measure the VS, VA on ysus, once those voltages are present, I know my ysus is good. On your case, I think your ysus is good
hey really good videos...I now know a friends buffer board is done - specifically the same bottom one like yours. and there's also a black dot like yours, looking like a point of impact. One thing different though - There is 1 totally black section going vertical from bottom to top , just near that black dot I mentioned. Maybe about a 1/8 vertical section.....what would he need to replace to take care of the vertical issues???
Vertical issues are almost always the panel. The address ICs that drive the panel in the vertical axis are part of the panel, on the flexable tabs and they can not be replaced.
Hi 12voltsvids I love your videos I am new at this just trying to learn what could cause a 50 inch plasma to shut itself down after 5mins of turning it on could this be dry soldering any response will be helpful thanks
+SHARABSERVICES If it is a Panasonic, check the screws that hold the Y sustain, and scan sustain boards to the chassis. They are known for coming loose. For that matter this affects Samsung and LG sets too. If not loose grounds, check for cracked solder.Some Samsung sets use a grey heat sync material sandwiched between the board and the chassis to keep the solder connections on the IGBT and diodes on the sustain boards cool. Earlier sets did not use this heat sync material, and may suffer heat fractures. I would suspect loose grounding screws first, especially if it is a Panasonic. I have a video dealing with this specific fault, and the final outcome of running it until it pops. Panasonic have a repair kit to deal with this and that includes new screws with lock washers.
Awesome Video. I have the exact same TV. Came home, and on bottom left of the screen there was a crack due to my toddler chucking a toy at it. Now, the exact screen issue that you had, I have now. Would you suggest for me to purchase the same buffer board to recoup the picture? Thanks ahead of time. Great video.
+Camryn Hernandez That will fix it for sure.The set I have was given to me. The people that gave it to me had it given to them, and they were assured that it worked and when they plugged it in, it was dead so they gave it to me. Shorted buffer chip. Ordered a new buffer board, and got this symptom. Contacted the vendor, and they shipped a replacement. Working great now that tiny crack I don't see, and it is definitely an internal crack, which I do not think came from an impact as if the outer glass was broken, the gas would have leaked out and the TV would be toast. 10 months later the TV looks great, except for the GLOBAL NEWS logo burned into the bottom of the screen as that is all I use the TV for in my bedroom. Watching the news on as I get ready for work, and they have a bright obnoxious logo on the bottom of the screen.
Hi There, I have a pn50c450 50" Samsung TV set, looks extremely similar to the one in your video. It wans't powering up (no samsung tune, etc). Found a shorted IGBT on X-Sust board, fixed it, but in the mean time something happened that I don't even have a heartbeat in my logic board at all, no VS, no Va...what could it be? Who switches VS_ON on/off? Logic or main board? ANy help would be appreciate!
The logic board controls the power supply. It runs self diagnostics on both the Y sustain, and X main board and if no faults detected, turns on the VS and VA power supplies. Check your Xmain and Ysustain boards for any shorted diodes, IGBTs and poor solder connections.
12voltvids I had already repaired a shorted IGBT on my X, but when I went to put this board back, nothing in the TV worked. I eveb disconnected all X and Y boards and still get no heartbeat on Logic B, no Vs, no Va...only the startup chime...sounds like the main is still alive but the Logic is fried?
Also I am concerned about what cause the Logic B (if that's the case) to go bad, because while I was testing everything else until I found the Vs shorted to GND in the X board, everything else was running fine, like I was getting a 1Hz heartbeat in the Logic B (when X board was out), I was getting Vs and Va correctly, etc...but when I took the X board out to replace the IGBT and put it back, no heartbeat, no Vs, no Ve...Im afraid to replace my logic board and then find that it breaks again for something else that Im missing, any clue what Im doing wrong? Thank you!
+Fer Cava If you watch the first one that is what I assumed, but that wasn't the case. I believe what happened is there was a fault with solder on the interface IC on the Y sustain board that pass the signal from the logic board to the buffer IC. I believe that during a scan a fractured connection caused a spike of noise that triggered the buffer chip to file and latch at the wrong time destroying the IC, and at the same time dumping a huge amount of current through the panel, that caused a heat crack on the internal structure. The panel never lost it's gas and yes the TV works fine now, I watch it every day. The new board was either bad, or the same fault caused it to also blow the same chip, but not in a short circuit as the first one did. That's what caused the scrambled picture. Before I put in the second board I gave the drive ICs on the bottom of the ySUS board a good look with the microscope, and there was a noticeable crack around a few of the pins. These ICs were under a piece of yellow translucent tape. After soldering the new buffer went in, and the set started as normal..
Clearly you know how to replace a ribbon cable, but the lesson here for me is that sometimes, for whatever reason, the connection isn't made and you have problems. I never would have guessed that reseating the ribbon cable would get the missing picture back. But it did. Well done. Regards, Tom
THOMMGB More than likely oxidation on the contacts on the connectors. Reseating them completed the connection. Strange symptom though, lines in the picture.
hi sir , I have same model TV ,in my set audio is working fine but No video ,Hart beet LED seems OK ,I replaced Yboard , Xmain board and main board as advices by a local technician .problem remain same ,when turn on TV i can see very light grains in screen but no video ,please help me to find issue ...
I have a 50" vizio plasma. a big area about 1/3 of the screen is black. The tv works great the green light flashing normal. The problem is it is vertical and I saw you said if there were vertical lines it is most likely the panel but this is a large area not lines and I just want to make sure its toast before I dispose of it. Or if this could be something else besides the panel. Thank you for your help.
If the area is large in the vertical plane, then a good chance that it is one of the buffer boards that runs along the bottom or top of the panel to interface the driver chips. If it is the width of a driver chip, it is possible the chip, or interface board. If the vertical section that is bad is less than the width of one of the tabs, then it is either the chip (on the glass) or the panel. Either way the chip on glass (mounted on the tabs) can not be replaced. Large area though is probably not the panel.
Yes I am fully aware of the CPR compression rate, I am certified in first aid, and yet when I happened upon a motorcycle accident recently I wasn't able to actually put it into practice. I saw a young woman take a corner too fast, hit the curb and get slam dunked on the pavement. Rider survived, and I was more concerned in not moving the patient, and like everyone else there waited for the paramedics to cart her away to the hospital. The heartbeat flash on the data board in about 1/2 the rate.
my only question is does the screen now have to be replaced or will that crack in the screen will it make it do that all over again I have the same exact TV with the same exact problem I haven't looked at the screen though to see if the screen is cracked or not I'm just wondering if you have to replace the screen and is it worth it and is it possible thank you for your videos very much enjoy them
Mine is still working fine almost 2 years later. I watch the morning news every day on it while I get ready for work. Yes I can see the crack if I go up to the set, but at a normal viewing distance it is not visible.
Might be one of the edge connectors on the bottom of the panel if it has any, but more likely it is the panel. The vertical registers (drive ICs) that trigger the discharge are part of the flex board that is unfortunately part of the panel itself. If an IC fails you get a bertical white or black bar (depending on how it failed) about 1" wide, or single row of red, green, blue or black. I have one that my daughter uses for gaming. It started out with a single green line, now it had about 8 on various colors in different places of the screen. Panel slowing dying.
hi I got a Samsung S50HW-YB03 tv it powers on just the screen light no picture at all sometimes it will show video 2 then flash off agian then starts popping loud through speakers I've replaced the x sustain as board had a Crack in it all voltage reads true on power supply per scale on back of tv logic flashes power supply lights up as well. then does a power on screen lights up no picture at all then powers off then turn on agian and begins power cycling with a loud pop through speakers then power cycles agian.any ideas thanks in advance.
So it seems that the bottom IC in those buffer boards are a common fault in this model, since your original buffer board and the first one Shopjimmy sent you were bad.
+Run for life Usually it is the top one, due to heat as heat rises, but in this case the botton buffer was bad. The original one was shorted, and the first replacement just didn't work at all. TV is still going fine now, watch it every day for 1 hour.
I have the same model tv I just have green and red discoloration on the screen can you help me out on what capacitors it could be I don't see any swollen
I was given one of these TVs that is like new from the group home my wife works at.One of the residents threw a remote at it and put like one of those cracks you have on the one you are repairing.The picture went completely out and now just the sound works,I hoping its just the buffer board or one of the other boards that can be replaced since I have no $ in it as of yet.
+bubb062 If the front glass broken and the gas has vented it is shot. The one I have, and I watch it every day the Crack is on the internal cell layer, the front a rear sealing panes are intact. You can check the buffer chips for shorts the buffer board was cheap enough. I still have the board that is dead for the bottom 1/4 screen you can have for the cost of postage for testing.
My then 2011 top of the range LG Plasma TV finally failed yesterday (nearly 13 years daily operation). I want to try to fix it. Here are the symptoms: about four days ago the TV just switched itself off. When I turned it on there was no screen. I tried to get it going but I could not. The red light near the switch would turn to blue and the noise of switching on was still there (and the noise of switching off). Then I switched the TV from the socket (from the plug) and waited say one hour. Then it would work but after a while switch itself off. Yesterday it worked all day and then suddenly at night it switched itself off. No effort at getting it to go back on gave results. I remember we switched it off for an hour from the socket (from the plug on the wall) and then it came back but only for 5 minutes and switched itself off. So we played some card games to pass the time last night. This morning at 7 am I went down and switched the plug and then it went on and I was watching TV as normal. Then after 5 minutes or so it cut out again and I could not bring it back. What do you think is the problem?
Probably loose ground screws on the board, or cracked solder connection on one of the box capacitors on the power board or blown electrolytic caps on the power board.
Good video, info !! Thanks! So, was the only reason a bad buffer board,....cost by what, external hit??? What else you really found, couple bad connections?? By the way, how much was that bufferboard?? Is it remanufactured?? Thanks, youtheman =) The supplier was OK, sent you another one, but....not very trustworthy??? Right?/
The fault was a blown buffer board, bottom chip failed. Caused a hot spot and cracked the screen internally. TV is still working fine, have it in my bedroom, and watch it every day. The root cause, bad solder on the address driver chips on the back side of the y-sustain. I am not so sure that the first buffer board received was bad, it may have blown when I first fired it up, as I hadn't found the cold solder on the Y sustain chips yet as they were covered with a yellow tape, or the first board was bad. I bought the board from Shopjimmy, and they just sent me a replacement as soon as I notified them that it was bad, no questions asked. The board was only 15.00. They are all used boards pulled from recycled sets, so I am sure they deal with a few bad ones.I have dealt with SJ on 2 other occasions to order parts kits to repair 2 other plasma, and they have always given me great service, and I wouldn't hesitate to purchase from them again.
Interesting how screen took hit but no damage to glass, son has a pn50c450DXZA, his son threw toy and cracked screen, small 1 inch star. TV continued to work for 4 to 6 weeks, then nothing, no light, no sound except for samsung theme when turned on. ?1, Could it take that long for plasma gas to escape rendering set future boat anchor, or best guess, worth throwing any money in it, perhaps a Y buffer board as was in your case. Said he could live with small obstruction like your result. Good job and determination on fixing your issue. Best regards.
+cudaviper At first I thought that the cause of the crack was impact, but after doing a little research, I discovered that it is wide spread, and in the case of the one I have (which works fine now, it is in my bedroom) I think the problem started as a broken connection on one of the buffer line decoder chips. These would be 2 small chips on the Y sustain board (shown in part 2 of the video) which caused loss of scan drive to the Y buffer, causing the buffer to latch, overload and short. During this time, a full panel discharge is occurring at this latched line which produced a tremendous amount of internal heat between the front and rear panels (and in the phosphor cells that hold the gas and phosphor) and then the set shut down, removing the heat and causing a stress fracture as the hot spot of glass rapidly cooled. That is my theory of what happened, as I have read of many accounts of people watching the set, seeing a bright flash, and hearing a crack, and once they inspected the screen was cracked internal.
+12voltvids So whats your opinion on the sons tv given the limited info. Plasma leaked over time, finally shutting it down, anyway to check that? or perhaps the Y buffer as in your case. thank you for taking the time to respond, can definitely tell you are devoted to the TV repair thing, inside and out. Plus ending up with a almost free tv never sucks..ha.
+cudaviper I doubt the xeon and neon gas has leaked out.The glass panel itself has a laminate coating on it as well.You would need to check your voltages. Plasma TVs are very well protected because the power supply is a high voltage, high current device. If the control board detects any fault on any of the systain or buffer boards it will shut the set down, and not allow any operation. So you will need to break out the meter and see if voltages are there. Samsung did have many problems with capacitors and solder connections.
Hello, I was wondering if I were to ship you a power supply board, if you can repair at the component level for me? Let me know but I own a Sony LCD (model NSX-32GT1) which is currently experiencing an issue and I didn't necessarily want to part with the tv yet. It currently has a problem where it won't turn on and the standby light flashes two times. I've removed the power supply board hoping to find a bulging capacitor or flash over around any components and I can't seem to find anything to try to resolder. I did a simple troubleshoot with a fluke across some fuses hoping that would be it, and its not. Do you make repairs/troubleshoot at the component level? Buying an entire new board is cost prohibitive, i Can't find a board unless i order direct from Sony's supplier and i'm better off just buying a TV for that price. Its part 1-474-247-11 APS-277/B(CH) APS-277 GE7 Power Supply for NSX-32GT1 Please let me know as ordering a new and entire one is too cost prohibitive, as it would cost as much as just buying a newer 32 model which nowadays are pretty reasonable. My email is urquiza.fabian@gmail.com
nyc2cuse Unfortunately it is not quite as simple as that. The entire set it needed to troubleshoot the problem. Most of these power supplies will not even start without input from the microcontroller.Go look at the first video of this set. Everything initially pointed at a power supply issue, it would try to start and then shut down. The problem, a blown buffer chip. The root cause, a cracked solder connection on the sustain board. Go look at my Sony power supply video. Turned out to be 2 transistors popped and an open fusible resistor. Again the set is needed to check for signals, to see the sequence of shut down. the fact that standby light is blinking 2 times is an indicator of where to look. That is a fault code. the TV is trying to start, and something is shutting it down. Could be a defective inverter for one of the fluorescent tubes, as there will be typically 10 or more fluorescent tubes that light the screen up. All it takes in 1 to go bad and it will shut the set down.I looked up my cheat sheet and 2 blinks of the standby light indicates an over current shut down condition, so the problem is most likely NOT in the power supply, but somewhere else in the set.
I have the same set and am starting to get dead rows of pixels as well. Started off with just 1, then 3 went out together (all in the upper 1/3 of the set) now the most recent dead row is at the bottom 1/3 of the set. I'm suspecting a bad buffer board as well. Nothing else is wrong with the set (I did have the main power board replaced as it received a surge a few years ago). I got this set for free so if a buffer board is going to run me $20 then it sure is better than dropping on a new set.
Yup. Buffer board is cheap. Mine was 15.00. Still going strong. Has a wonderful picture sans the small crack but I don't see that as it is at the bottom, hidden where the station logo usually lives.I got this one for free too, as well as several other plasma sets. One thing for sure plasma sets are generally repairable, LCD sets not so much.
Sadly I replaced the y-buffer board and I have the same dead lines as before. Made absolutely no difference. No new lines and no decrease in lines. Any idea what else it could be? I suspect that it may be bad ribbons?
If the lines are vertical (top to bottom) it is always a panel failure. The A buffer as they call it are internal to the panel, and are chips attached directly to the flexible tabs.Horizontal lines can be a bad buffer, or one of the flexible tabs that connect the panel to the buffer board, or a bad panel. Most of the bad manels I have seen have this problem, a vertical line in the pix. When it has been a buffer board failure it has been exactly as is shown in this video. An entire horizontal band of random noise as is demonstrated in this video @ 9:05. A mis seated connector symptom is shown at 18:50.
12voltvids here is a picture of the lines. These are the same with the old board and new. I suspect it's something else (like the ribbon itself as you said). In that case it may not be worth fixing. goo.gl/photos/8BELuePGppegCR5DA
This one was 15.00 back when i did it. Tv is still working. Just watched the news on it this morning. Totally trashed now as tv station has ads and logos all over the screen during the morning news which is all I basically watch so it had burned badly into the screen after 5 years.
@@12voltvids Model: VM60PHDTV10A Brand: Vizio MPN: 6871QDH124A ... i couldnt find this part anywhere. i have same issue as your video, bottom half has rainbow colors. i suspected its bottom left buffer board. never mind found only one for sale.
Understand that the crack will likely expand due to thermal expansion and contraction and could short again.. best you keep it as u said.. you couldnt sell it that way...
You got that xbmc they got lots of add ons you can watch any thing you want I got it on my pc and tablet how do you like it you do a good job fixing things do you do it for a business if so you must be doing good making good money fixing everybody things
Scott Diburro XBMC is now Kodi, yes it is good for sure. I have it on my HTPC. I use a Raspberry Pi for the photo display.I actually only do the electronics repair now by special request, and as a hobby. I was a diagnostic engineer for over 20 years at a Sony service facility,for over 20 years, but now I am in a totally different business, and do this just to help spread my 20 years of knowledge.
