Very similar! I also did a repair on an AW15 which is older but similar(stuck fan). The Sanyo used a lot of Sony parts, so I wonder what the relationship was between them on projectors? Just take your time and be sure to not use any solvent on the optics. Be extra careful(even just dont touch ) the LCD area. The polarizer panels will be quite old and ready to be damaged. Merely touching them with a cloth is enough to damage them. those are the panels right before the LCDs. A gentle vacuuming and a dusting with a soft dry brush should be sufficient. Sony builds really solid gear in my opinion.
Hello FixitFrank, the video cleaning was very interesting. I'll keep the video close when I will clean my Z4. I have a question thought. The Z4 I have is having a lamp problem. I have bought a new lamp. It worked properly for 6 hours and then every five minutes or so, the front panel close and the power and lamp replace lights flashes. I've checked the heat of the room (heatwave in Canada) and the fixation of the lamp. No result. Should I clean the air socket? Is the temperature or humidity could be a problem? Thanks.
I'd start with the bulb. But it depends on the warning. If you are getting a "lamp life expired" you wil need to reset that in the menu, but if its a flashing LED for lamp failure, then a new bulb should solve it. Good luck!
Hi , firstly I would like to thank you for sharing this very didactic video. I don't have proper screwdriver in order to take out the optical module. Can you inform what model you did? I am from Brazil and we use millimeters tools here. That's a lot.
No worries. I only use metric as well. I only use sae for driving. I don't recall the screw size but elektrotanya.com had the service manual for free. It will be listed in there.
I'm trying to do the reset described in this post below, but I can't find the "small black thermal switch". Can you help me? thank you so much! *Process:* Remove the six screws (three underneath and three on the back) marked with an arrow. take note of one of the ones on the back as it is different to the other five. Turn the projector the correct way up and lift off the lid, Disconnect the cable from the control panel to the main circuit board and note where it came from. Towards the back left of the unit there is a small black thermal switch above where the lamp sits. It has a white central button. Get a pen or something else with a sharp tip and press the white central part, it clicks back in it means that it had tripped.
back right corner above the lamp assembly. The switch housing is black, but the button is white in the center. Go to 3:45 and look at the bottom right corner of the screen. You will see the 2 wires going to the thermal cutout.
Hi, I'm going to get the same projector used. But the fans not working so the device shuts down to protect it self. Any obvious reasons why the fan is not spinning ?
It depends. If it is only one fan not spinning, it may just be a bad fan. They do fail as they are not super well made. Figure new they are a few dollars so they can fail. However, I would be careful with buying a Z4 this old. The LCD panels have a piece of filter called a polarizer that does wear out from age. You get a yellowish picture or a colored blob in the picture which is not really worth fixing. LCD projectors in general last about 7-10 years(some older, some younger) but when a polarizer fails, the unit is not cost effective to repair. If you can get your money back if it has this issue( or its really cheap) then it is good. The Z4 itself was a great projector. I used to have one that I loved. In short, if it only has one fan that is bad, I would read the part# off it, and order the same fan. Don't use a substitute because the status wire may be a specific type for that projector. Computer fans tend to be different than projector fans most of the time.
Is there a way to test the bulb to see if it is OK? I am understanding there is no conductivity from the two leads of the bulb... Do you know how to test the bulb?
Unfortunately not really. I go by visual indicators sometimes. Also, if its physically old, even if the lamp hours are low, it can go bad. I look for white deposits inside the arc tube on the side that would be facing down while in use. If the inside of the arc tube is cloudy, cracked, distended or discolored, that is a good indicator. If they the arc tube is clear and clean, and shows no physical signs of damage it might be okay. One way that kind of works is using any low current high voltage power supply to see if you can strike an arc inside the arc tube. Its not a definite sign that the bulb is good but it will show if the gas is still inside and if the arc points can conduct. I've used old plasma ball flyback power supplies and those "stun gun" transformers from ebay and they will give you kind of an idea. Otherwise using a compatible ballast is the only 100% reliable way to check.
Hello,I got a Sanyo Z2 projector , recently just take out from box for test , but it look like only screen center can on focus , left and right are out of focus , i had been over couple years did not use it , any idea what happen for this issue or i can cleaning myself like your video.Thanks
Interesting video, I have a Z5 and some time ago (first lamp of two) it developed a sort of pink hue on the left third of the screen..this is on a white image and I have simply put up with it but know I will do as you have done...tell me is there anything else I can do with it whilst in bits..what about the light pathway, its exposed to the elements and must need some maintenance ...the general image seems dull now and putting it on full makes little impact, the new lamp has but 150 hrs on it, images are uniform, screen is wall mounted and only 80 inch....kind regards.
The Z5 is about identical to the Z4 for the most part. The LCD panels are different if I recall but the rest is the same. As long as you don't have a failing polarizer, a quick cleaning like I did here should help. You may even get away with blowing some air into the lcd area without removing anything. Less is more here. Optics can be moved easily and are hard to get back into place. Aside from the LCD area, you may want to blow out the prism area near the iris. Otherwise that is about all you can do. If the polarizer is the issue, they are replaceable but since the projector is older, I would not bother with repair since the cost would be higher than its worth.
@@FixitFrank Hi Frank and thanks for your reply...I took it to bits the same night that I wrote to you (couldn't wait!) the whole light pathway came under close inspection...all mirrors, lenses etc came out...noticed that they seemed to be coated with a fine foggy mist, I'm told that that comes from the plastic getting hot and fumes coming off not unlike the car inside windows, they were cleaned to perfection including the panel block (gently) it all went together very well and was immediately pressed into service......The quality was astounding except for one new issue.....a red/pink cast the full width of the bottom of the screen about an inch up you can't see it when a film is on and only on a white background.....stripped, checked again but still there......rest of the screen is spot on. Regards
Hello, These are arc lamps, the specs are not quite that simple. Ignition voltage is usually 3KV-5KV, run voltage is roughly 80-120. 145W lamp rating, so figure 50milliamp ignition current, then increased to 1-1.5amps during run voltage. You need to drive these with a 145W AC ballast. They cannot be powered directly due to the need to manage the arc.
@@aliksoglu Its not worth it. I have tried and LED's wont work. They are the wrong color(CRI) and making it project properly will cost far more than a new lamp. You need to somehow fool the projector into thinking it has a lamp or ballast and its just not worth it. I get emails on this every few months and no one is ever successful. Its just not that easy or cost effective.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for sharing information with me. Finally, what brand and code do I need to call to buy a caseless bulb, mine is broken and the texts are faded.
gotcha, I can help there. Its actually pretty easy to find and should be pretty inexpensive. If you look on the side of the bulb, you will see a philips listing. If you look up that it should lead you to the bare lamp. You can use either a philips or Osram 200-220W E19.5 reflector lamp. The e19.5 is the reflector shape which is the more important part. Any wattage from 190-220W is safe to use as long as its an E19.5 reflector. for example. www.aliexpress.com/item/32840039609.html
