You didn't have to reprogram the rack and pinion electronics after replacement? Cus I want to do job too but worried about the reprogram shit that the company selling part says needs to be done
I found that the most common problem is the outside ujoint of the steering shaft binding from rust! before they go bad penetrating oil soaking fixes them. the shaft is 2 to 3 hundred dollars new so I have been able to buy a short half inside portion of a shaft used from a cobalt and take the joint out and replace it even in my chevy HHR for around $20 used junk yard! a little heat and a hammer gets it replaced!! also the very easy to replace electric motor also binds!!! almost never the rack!! and also the steering gear the motor is attached to can be a problem but disconnecting portions of the steering can help you diagnose witch part is actually causing the problem!!,,,,,, just a bit of info for your readers! I am a 44 year mechanic so maybe my advice can help!!
rick the shaft your talking about with the ujoints you can buy online for much cheaper so there's no need going to the junkyard now. Only if you find a good one and got some time to go.
What's the test for checking the steering gear vs. steering shaft like in this video? I need to know before throwing parts at something that may not even be worth fixing. Steering gear is hard plastic against what looks like a worm gear.
It looks hard work rather have. A guy like you do it you know what your doing great daily vids wish you had longer the good people like you vids are short. Thank for all the vids
My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Ion and she just had a baby. She called me today told me that her power steering light came on while taking her new born baby to the doctor. She had to pull her car on the side of the highway. I pray she takes care of this problem very soon.
The steering rack and shaft need to be replaced. If you notice that your steering is a lose wheel. Your steering should be tight and firm as you drive. And if your driving at a fast speed. You constantly have to hold the wheel tight and correct your steering to avoid drifting left or right. This is signs if a failing sterling rack or shaft. Or a broken or worn stabilizer bar or sway bar
I think Chevy Cobalt in Chevy ion in the Pontiac G5 is one of the easiest steering rack and steering shafts changed as far as I'm concerned only a couple hour job at the most especially if you got a car left about two hours flat in my driveway on jack stands
That is a similar problem to what a recent recall fixed on the Ford Escapes. In the cold or randomly you could potentially lose steering briefly but still dangerous. Fords have problems they also have a lot of recalls recently.
Think i Gotta do this now.. too on my 06 pontiac pursuit gt sedan.... just changed the bad struts... but sounds are still there in the upper steering wheel... think my i-shalft might be ok but will see after the steering column... these cars are garbage but once cheaply fixed... they run good for a good while.
Gotta drop the subframe to get it out in the 2001ish Wbody buick/pontiac/chevy sedans just did -steering rack reman from Detroit Axle -ps flush -all brakes rotors -brake flush -wheel bearing hub ass -All struts/springs -control arm bushing -outer tie rods -alignment on my damn regal ..
What does that play in the intermediate steering shaft feel like. A lot of Cobalt's are having trouble with a plastic gear in the main column where the power steering is.. Is there a test to know the difference?
My car will no longer turn. Right but turns left, the steering wheel is very loose when turning right and won't turn the wheels. I think it's the rack and pinion I removed the stearing shaft and that seems fine... Any opinions on why this is happening?
I have to ask do you need to have rack and pinion that you replaced reprogrammed after replacement like you did..cus I want to change mine out but some say something has to be programmed but I don't see why?
Any chance you can let me know those torque specs? I need em for inner and outer tie rod, as well as intermediate shaft. Am not replacing the rack. I would be greatly appreciative
I have a 2007 Saturn Ion & im getting noise from the steering that I can hear inside the vehicle thats coming from under the steering wheel. Would that be the steering shaft?
Anyone done this on a Cobalt and had trouble getting the rack to clear the transmission mount?? Realllly don't want to drop the sub frame but it almost seems impossible without doing so..
They usually go together. If you are due for a u joint you’re due for an electric steering motor as well. The bearings wear in them and they start to bind. Always around the same mileage as the u joint. Might as well save yourself doing the job twice and do them at the same time
Good point Tyler Christianson, I was wondering why he had to replace the rack also. He never explained what was wrong with it. I guess just replacing the u-joint wouldn't have made him enough money..
Screamin Eagle because they’re easy to do.. take the tire off and do them when necessary. Have you ever heard the saying don’t fix it if it isn’t broken ? Lol
Moparman58 so not true.. mine has seen the ditch enough times and it still runs like a top. Original clutch. 239,000 km and all it has had is a radiator and front bumper due to my stupidity and an electric steering motor/intermediate shaft. Did I mention it hit the ditch at 160km/hr? I skid 125ft. The tires were flat spotted. This car saved my life. I gladly bailed it out from the impound. I would buy another Ion without a second thought. The 2.2 ecotec with the 5MT transmissions are near unbreakable. Cheap to repair none the less. A walk in the park to work on as well. Just my two cents..
