Savage 62F cleaning, disassembly and assembly 

Great to hear you got it working! Thank you for watching!

Lol, just take your time with it and it will give you many more years of use and enjoyment. Thanks for watching!

Glad to help and thanks for watching!

I love to hear that I helped you out! Hopefully it will give you many more years of reliable service. Thanks for watching!

Awesome! It is a fun little rifle and it's not too pricey. You're welcome and thanks for watching!

Thanks! I really appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching too!

Right on! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching too!

.22 is pretty dirty ammo. I hope the cleaning fixes your issue but sometimes it's just the ammo itself. Have fun at the range, be safe and thanks for watching!

You're welcome, glad I could help! Thank you for watching!

I almost bought another one just because of the price! They are pretty good little plinkers!

Certainly not the easiest but not the most difficult either. Thank you for watching!

Could be a good winter project! Thank you for watching!

Glad I could help, thanks for watching!

Thank you for taking the time to watch it!

They are good rifles, especially for the price! Thanks for watching!

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview What was really interesting today is that I shot the Savage .22 LR after shooting my Aero Precision AR10 M5. Talk about Big Brother Little Brother .....

@@pauldonovan5653 I have an Aero Precision AR10 M5, yeah, BIG brother Baby brother! Lol.

Chambered in 6.5 Creedmore.

Mine is .308

You're welcome!

Thank you! I wish this thing was a little easier to clean but I'm not going to complain.......too much!

That's wonderful! So glad I could help and thank you for subscribing!

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching too!

You're very welcome!

I believe there were a few companies manufacturing these throughout the years.

Thank you for Watching! Hope you subscribe!

Thank you very much for watching it!

I've has some issues with Winchester ammo in a couple rifles, especially the Rossi Gallery 22 (pump action, go figure). I've always had luck with Remington Thunderbolts. Thanks, have fun, be safe!

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview T Y V M

Awesome, thank you!

I need to get a Marlin 60 and I'd like to get my hands on a 802 plinkster (bolt gun) just for fun!

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview I've been looking for an 802 plinkster. No one carries them up here. One gun shop gave me the gun's UPC and told me to check their web site often to see if one came in.

@@tomstepanowicz6191 I'm looking for the polymer "thumbhole" stock 802. I found one in Louisville, KY once for $119 but it was months before I got back to that store, by then it was gone. I'll find one, someday.

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview the 802 with the thumbhole is the one that has my attention too

Not really, every now and then, one with problems will get through the quality department. Give it another try after the cleaning and see if it improves, if not, you may have to send it back.

You should be able to fire a few hundred rounds before it needs a good cleaning. I don't think I would use WD40 for firearms, it's more of a penetrating oil. I use mostly RemOil, it's formulated for guns. As far as a grease, I use FrogLube, it's both a cleaner and a lubricant and it only takes a very small amount.

Glad you liked it!

I have seen some of that spray used on a rail on a type of milling machine, it changes the tolerance between surfaces. When the body would move, it would scrape the coating off and get between the moving parts and make a mess. the machine had to be taken apart and have it all cleaned out to work properly again. From what I witnessed, I would not use it on firearms.

The plastic snap caps will get deformed over time, you may just need a new one.

It's not the easiest, that's why I did a separate video showing how to take it down. Stay safe as well and thanks for watching!

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview I also have The Savage Mark 2 bolt action rifle and is really easy to clean compare to the 64.i appreciate the work you did on this video to help others thank you again.

@@agustinequihua936 I agree, I have a mark 2 also. Most bolt actions are easy to clean and usually last a long time because when they're easy, it gets done more frequently. I greatly appreciate you watching!

I've been using FrogLube for several years now and have never had any issues with it. Now when I apply it, it's only a very thin film. I think you just gave me an idea for a new video, it is that time of the year! The FireFly is lots of fun!!!

​@@SmallCaliberArmsReview I came across this article tonight and thought you might find it interesting. " Believe it or not, and contrary to what a lot of marketing hype will try to tell you, firearms aren’t generally all that hard on lubricants. They encounter intermittent high loads, interspersed with long periods of inaction. This means that the primary lubrication need isn’t hydrodynamic - it’s boundary. What, then, should we be looking for? " www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

I understand.

It should. Most of the time people don't give them a thorough cleaning until they start having problems with it. Most rimfire firearms will handle a pretty good bit of neglect before issues arise. I don't believe there's any set number of rounds between cleanings and I probably clean mine way more than they need it but always remember that firearms have 2 enemies; Rust and Politicians.

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Thank you for reply. I also own a shotgun, would this same thought apply to it also? Thanks for you time.

@@jojoe2409 Yeah, keep them in great shape and they'll always be ready when you need them. Thank you for watching!

I'm assuming you want to put a muzzle brake or suppressor on it? You would need a barrel for the same gun to swap them or have a qualified gunsmith thread it for you. Thanks for watching!

Make sure there is no ammo in the rifle, check it then check again, then pull the trigger. That's really the only way to "uncharge" it. If you have a snap cap or plastic dummy round, place it in the chamber first, that will minimize any potential damage to the firing pin and chamber edge. It will not cause any problems leaving it in the "charged" state as long as there is no ammunition in the firearm. Not a silly question at all. Thanks for watching!

Some cleaners and plastics don't agree with each other.

Really, every time you fire a semi auto firearm, it is automatically cocked and ready to fire again. If there are no more rounds in the gun, it will not fire. I read through the manual and I couldn't find anywhere it mentions "decocking" except for the disassembly procedure: "TO DISASSEMBLE THE ACTION ALWAYS KEEP THE MUZZLE POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION. A LOADED GUN HAS NO PLACE IN OR NEAR A VEHICLE OR BUILDING. • Suggested tools for general maintenance and cleaning: padded vise, Phillips screwdriver, 7/16” box end or socket wrench, 9/64” Allan wrench. 1. With one hand prepared to catch the removable magazine, push the latch at the front of the magazine forward, ejecting the magazine into your hand. 2. Placing one hand over the ejection port, slowly pull the cocking handle fully to the rear. 3. Let the cocking handle come forward slowly and push the handle into the counter bore (see FIGURE 4), locking the bolt open, and extract the live cartridge from the chamber (if there is one). 4. Look and feel to be sure there are no cartridges in the chamber. 5. Move the safety forward to the OFF SAFE [READY TO FIRE] position. 6. Pull the trigger to disengage the hammer from the sear. 7. Remove the stock assembly screw, and lift the action and barrel from the stock." This was copied and pasted from the Savage owners manual available on line. Generally, once you are done firing and you have verified there is no ammunition in the firearm, the manual recommends putting the safety in the "On Safe" position. I have heard of people doing different procedures like pulling the bolt back just far enough to allow the trigger to be pulled but not letting the firing pin to hit the breech, but this procedure is NOT mentioned in the manual. I hope this helps and thank you for watching!

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Thank you and have a great day :)

I believe I misspoke during disassembly, I would have to get mine out again to refresh my memory.

Same! are you missing the whole ejector as well?

I didn't even know they made stainless steel "Snap Caps"! I would say no, a "Snap Cap" is supposed to provide a cushion between the firing pin and the edge of the chamber, much like the brass of the rimfire ammo does. A stainless steel dummy round may protect the chamber edge but I think it may be hard on the firing pin. Firing pins are usually made of a hardened steel so they can withstand thousands of impacts on the primers.

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Thank you

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview I posted a review of these snap caps on my channel and I gave your channel a shout :)

@@gamer6550 Awesome! I'll go check out your video!

Rem-oil

Unless specifically noted in the manual, I would avoid dry firing any rimfire firearm, the only place i could find reference to dry firing the 62/64/954 is during disassembly, to disengage the hammer from the sear. If you just wanted to do some practice "dry firing" there are plastic "dummy rounds" or "snap caps" available that are supposed to prevent damage to rimfire firearms. Be safe, have fun and thanks for asking and watching!

At a minimum you need to verify there are no barrel obstructions. I would recommend picking up a bore snake or a cleaning rod of some sort and making sure there is no debris from the factory in the barrel and action. It will probably have enough factory oil left in it to run for a while. They rarely have anything in them but it's just good practice to verify, even a small metal chip from machining can cause big problems. Thanks for watching.

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Thanks for the fast reply have a great day

@@gamer6550 you're welcome.

You can, I just wanted to show a detailed strip and clean. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching!

One of the great firearms debates! I have some that have been loaded for years, fully loaded. Usually heat and rust are the biggest culprits of the magazine springs. Think of all the other springs around you, that are not unloaded when not in use. Automobile springs, various switches, breakers, all the other springs in the workings of your firearm. I can not say with 100% certainty but I do not fear one going bad because it's left loaded.

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview Im a creature of habit and learned long ago not to leave loaded and I typically shot a hell of alot more back then. Not so much now. So I definitely appreciate the feedback. Thanks brother. Love the channel!

Thank you!

No problem

There's some price gouging going on out there! 62/64, tomato/tomahto, Lol Thanks for watching!

Bought one at Bass Pro last week for $129 took to the range yesterday put about 150 rounds through it with no problems.

I believe I only used two different sizes, a 5/32" and a 1/4". Those may be different depending on when yours were made. Thanks for watching!

@@SmallCaliberArmsReview you're right, i checked and I have the same sizes you have 👍

Glad it helped and thanks for watching!

Congratulations! It's a really nice rifle and the design has been around for a long time, take good care of it, be safe and have fun!

Not sure what ring you're talking about. The design may have changed over time, these rifles have been around for a while.

The bolt action ring that hold the springs in place. I figured it out, it broke off an its stuck in the back reciever.

@@johnnygutierrez3719 well that's a bummer!

Thanks!

Both the rear and front sights are mounted on the barrel so there is no chance to miss align them unless you bump or damage them. The lug that holds the barrel on, really has no play in it at all so even if the barrel was able to be rotated 360 deg. the sights would always show the same as when it was sighted in.

​@@SmallCaliberArmsReviewI see what you are saying however if the barrel is 75 degrees left to the receiver the sights will still be aligned but not straight to the receiver. for example the stamp that says savage may not read straight because it twisted a certain way. i aligned it as straight as i could to the receiver. in short the sights are aligned together but maybe a fraction off of being aligned to the receiver..i have it looking nice and straight everything in good, just a little sketched that i dont have it perfectly straight, but maybe it never was anyway. gonna shoot it tomorrow. Thanks for the video man, helped me just go for it,

Un pequeño ajuste de las miras puede ser de gran ayuda. ¡Gracias por ver!

It's not the easiest and it's a very old design. It's not necessary to take it down this far for every cleaning, sometimes just a boresnake down the barrel is enough to keep it running. I recently saw an ad for these at $89??? I cant remember where but that's a bargain even if it is a little complicated.

I apologize, it's really tough to do detailed assembly videos that people actually want to watch. Working with a camera between me and the firearm, trying to keep everything in focus and in frame. Doing it solo also presents problems too. If the 62 is not torn down any further than what I did in the video, it's not too hard to figure out. If you lost that spring behind the ejector, check with Numrich, they have tons of parts for all sorts of older firearms. You may also be able to contact Savage for some of the small parts and they may offer the best deal. Again, I apologize for the quality and lack of detail in the video.