Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
You are an absolute blessing to the small engine repair community. This is information everyone needs to hear as well as act on. Your videos are spectacular. Keep up the great work and best wishes for your continued success!
I purchased a JD S170, the first thing I did when the S170 needed its first oil change I purchased the retrofit kit to remove the easy change system to standard spin on filter, with regard to oil filters, every filter manufacturer can gross reference the the JD filter number to their filter number. Personally I use the Wix oil filters.
Check your local auto parts store for filters. Oil, air and fuel. Most stores carry that stuff for cheap. I know. I worked at O O O'REILLY for a few years and sold a lot of filters for mowers. Changed my quick change oilfilter out on my JD mower and use a common filter for about $8.
I understand the manufacturers stance on not releasing diagnostic information to a point. They have millions tied up in developing these electronic controls and need to recoup their costs. The automotive industry went through this a number of years ago with the introduction of electronic engine management. Eventually the government mandated the release of diagnostic information after 1 year. This got simplified a bit with the introduction of OBD2, as codes are for specific issues applicable across car lines. There are some manufacturer or model specific codes allowed, but information must be released after 1 year. Aftermarket data readers need annual upgrades at the mechanics cost.
@@daledavies2334 The latest is subscriptions. Many and more of the manufacturers all of the time are charging monthly or yearly subscriptions for convenience features like remote start, GPS, Apple car play, heated seats, heated steering wheels, ETC. It's maddening, you pay extra for a car because it has all of these features and them after a year they will no longer work unless you pony up.
@@rodzimmerman1979Maddening to say the least. Corporate thievery of the public. The rich get richer and the poor get poorer. Well they don't make much on me. Driving a 2000 now and working to fix it up a bit. Parts and time are cheap compared to the interest on a new one. I can see pay for Sirius radio, but heated seats or power steering. Sorry big dudes, I keep my money. When the big wheels pull that, it is time to play dog and firehydrant on their leg. Let them go broke. If everyone quits dancing to their tune, they have no income.
@@daledavies2334 Ever car owner needs to buy a OBD2 scan tool. Even if they have no mechanical skills they need to know what the trouble code is, before they take the car to a professional shop for repairs.
I use $3.97 Motorcraft 910-S oil filters on my Kohler, Kawasaki and Briggs zero turn and lawn tractor engines. The engines always outlive the mower so they must work great.
James you are a wise man. FL 910S or any 3614 or equivalent works great in place of the always more expensive OPE filter. Just need to make sure room permits for the slightly taller 3614 filter.
John Deere is very "proud" of their products.. My dealer wanted $100.00 pick-up/delivery fee, $110.00/hour to change the transmission drive belt that they said took "at least" 2 hours to change.. So I'm into these people for $320.00 and they haven't even replaced any parts yet... I ordered the belt from Amazon, drove my tractor down the street to my neighbor that does lawn mower repair. We dropped the deck, winched up the front end, pulled the pulleys, changed the belt and I was back home 25 minutes later... he charged me $25...
John deere's quality is going down the tube, have a deere riding mower, less than 200 hours on it and the paint on the deck and tractor is peeling off in big sheets, ended up pulling off the deck, sandblasting it and painted deck with POR 15 and then several coats of chassis black paint, replaced all deck hardware/spindles/blades
Why would you need to replace all hardware and spindles after only 200 hours. Makes no sense. Your problem is the paint, not the parts. If paint peels on deck just brush some boiled linseed oil on it and the rust will stop in its tracks. After season over, put a coat of oil on the underside and there will be no rust. Paint not good at stopping rust. Store in a dry place with a concrete floor. Paint is mostly cosmetic, but it should not be peeling. Bad paint job or poor prep at factory. I have a Cub Cadet 2022 model with 1056 hours and the same deck and spindles, except idlers have been changed. Deck in good condition. Use the oils on metal. Paint will not stop certain places where it will rust, oil WILL.
I had a feeling you were down to earth and I definitely didn't miss on this assumption. Thanks for keeping it real and saving our bacon. You are cool. Nice to see side by side comparison. I will keep this in mind next time I need to do maintenance on my jds. I hope you and yours are doing well and that you have a most wonderful day 😊!
It’s the same for cars. Price out the OEM part numbers vs aftermarket on air and oil filters or even suspension parts. I’ve purchased axle shafts for a third of the price of OEM that’s the exact same part the car was built with. Heck the cabin filter most MFGs use for your HVAC ventilation filter are sold at Autozone as STP for $15-20, and OEM cost can be $75-100!! And it’s the same exact filter, even has the exact same production codes stamped on them!!
Needed a cable for my John Deere snow plow. Went to the local dealer, they look it up, it was 98$. I went to a local Walmart, and bought a set of universal bicycle cables, was 14$. Dave. Fredericksburg, VA.
My Poppa always said John Deere Green paint means more money !! Working on those John Deere Green combines meant that they wanted to see RED BLOOD !! He would say "Green paint, loves Red Blood !!" 😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
it bears mentioning that unless you plan on doing all your own work on your small engine equipment, buying your equipment from your local small engine shop will usually get you a better grade of equipment than buying from the big box store will, AND when you bring it in for service, the mechanic will have a personal interest in making sure you get good service. my parents' business wasn't a small engine business, but they had a sign every independent business competing with big box stores should have: "If you didn't buy it from us, why is it our problem?"
The running joke about John Deere garden tractor hoods is that they are made of green potato chips and egg shells. That's why they are so fragile and break so easy. They also cost hundreds of dollars to replace.
A FRAM PH 3614 oil filter has a 3/4 thread and the same gasket dimension as the factory B/S oil filter for my 30 hp big block. Also fits a lot of Kawasaki's and Kohler's and there only $4.00 or so at Walmart!
@@notajp Fram makes several price lines, the cheap ones are just that, the upscale lines are competitive qualitywise with other brands, some of which are actually made by Fram.
Haha! I was at Lowe’s today and stopped by the mower aisle to pick up the filters and oil for my John Deere. I saw those exact filters and prices. What a freakin’ joke! So, I picked up the Briggs filters and oil and saved a bunch. Thanks, Chickanic! Great stuff!
@@HittWorks Good to know. I tried to stay with the engine-specific oil as much as possible in my outdoor equipment for warranty purposes, but I'm always open to expanding my choices.
my dad has a honda generator, and when he bought it they told him the engine was a 2 cylinder version of a Honda car engine, so all the internal parts were interchangeable.
When buying automotive parts there is frequently a cross-reference book to get the equivalent part from a different manufacturer. I suspect in these cases, the only thing different is the paint & label. However, is there a cross-reference book?
We find the same thing in the engine driven welding world. The engine is always made by someone else and you are better off going with the engine OEM part rather than the welder OEM. It costs money to buy from the engine OEM and rebrand it with your (Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, ETC) own logo. Great Video and very cool find on the Skulls.
In my experience, it's Home Depot and Lowes that create all that extra cost with huge markups, not the OEMs. HD thinks their shelf space has value and the prices reflect it. You should see the markups they put on fertilizer.
These commentary videos are very helpful. I watched your last one on premixed fuels (like I used) and immediately thought of my Craftsman string trimmer that would run on choke only last year. I had cleaned the carb already so I hung it up for the winter figuring this year I would drag it out and go through it again. After hearing your comments about canned premixes, I changed the gas out for my own mix using non-ethanol fuel and 2 cycle oil. I usually had to use the power starter on it, but just for kicks I used the rope pull. It coughed on the first pull, started on the 2nd pull, and idled just fine! After it warmed up, I fine-tuned the high and low settings and now it runs like new! I also paid $12 for an Echo trimmer at an auction that said it runs rough. I poured out the old blue gas (Ah ha) and put in my own mix. Started on the second pull and no fuel adjustments needed! Wow! Thanks so much
Thanks for the tips and information Bree. Right now my JD is under its 4 year warranty so I buy everything at the dealership. A big plus is that I get to look at the new stuff while I'm there. I enjoy looking at the Toro and Stihl that they sell. I haven't bought a Stihl chainsaw because I have 3 Echo saws that run great! Go Echo!!
You are correct. Evidently John Deere thinks very highly of those parts since they price them so high or maybe that green and yellow paint is so expensive that they are trying to recoup the cost.
I bet if you price those parts at an actual dealership they are cheaper then the box store prices. I am a former JD tech, it's been a few years but maintenance parts for the 100 series mowers used to be cheaper at the dealership then the farm and home stores or box stores. I'm not saying hard parts were cheap though, they never are at big green.
OEM "name brand" prices always blow my mind. Many moons ago, I ran the shop for a Western Auto. They used to be about customer service and competitive pricing. But, whenever I needed to purchase a part we didn't stock, I had to mark up That part 300% !!! Always hated that. Thank you for the very helpful info, your videos are really good !
You can't really blame JD for that GY20577 oil filter pricing. That is a Lowe's and Home Depot issue. They have always been crazy on filter and oil prices. The JD OEM retail dealer price for that GY20577 oil filter is $8.94. So the rule of thumb for these items is get them from your local dealer or from a reputable small engine shop like yours. The big box stores are screwing folks big time on these maintenance parts prices. As for that Easy Change system. You can covert that back to a regular spin-on filter for around $12 and be a hero with the customer. It will result in more complete oil changes as well. :-)
@@stephenbierlein2517 I have three JD tractors and agree. But... things like oil and filters are surprisingly cost competitive with the other offerings. Heck, even their OEM "tractor" battery prices aren't that bad considering finding equivalent CCA rated batteries in those sizes can be difficult.
Actually, JD is responsible for the pricing. The retailer whether it be the big box store or an independent dealer or repair facility. The big box or smaller independent facilities buy the necessary OEM parts from JD. The retail facility has a mark-up. JD will charge the facility for those parts whether it be an air filter, oil filter, or fuel filter. I am the lucky guy you have asked to do the said repair. I get the parts from the factory. JD has charged me $100.00 for the parts. I have my parts and go to work. The repair has taken place and I spent $100.00 for parts. I need to invoice the parts. I paid $100.00 to JD. I have overhead for labor, fixed overhead like power, water, waste, rent, and insurance. I have labor and bulk oil, transmission fluid and so forth. Standard markup is usually in the neighborhood of 35%-45%. I was using approximate prices to lay it on the table.
I am glad you mentioned this. The big box stores seem to be high on parts, I just thought maybe it was just where I live. They must make a ton on these parts. They wanted like 8 bucks for a snowblower spark plug I got at the auto parts store for 3. My Toro mower’s spark plug does not seem to have a cross reference so I am stuck with the Kohler branded plug. Also the Toro mower I purchased was actually cheaper at my local independent dealer than HD was selling it for. Not much cheaper but I would rather support my local shop if I could help it. I guess they bank on convenience (my local shop is has limited hours) and people not actually shopping around.
I have a LA111 JD mower. The OEM starter solenoid lasted 8 years. I got a generic solenoid that was physically the same as the original. It was a cheap Chinese solenoid that lasted 2 years before the contacts burnt out. I get the next one from a mower shop and it is the same cheap Chinese solenoid and it lasted 2 years. It had the same stamped number on it. I am on solenoid number 4 and I bought it from the JD dealership for twice what the cheap Chinese solenoid cost. It was in a JD box and had a JD sticker with the part number on it. I pealed the sticker off and it is the same cheap Chinese solenoid as it had the same printed part number on it as my bad one.
I did a deck rebuild on a husqvarna 46 in rider and used all aftermarket parts. Everything fit perfectly and did great except the belt. It was ablade and belt pkg deal and the belt ran one cutting and was smoking before I finished. It was more rubber band than belting material. There's no way to tell online if you are getting a quality belt so heads up on that one.
I must have lucked out! I have a discount warehouse that buys closeouts and overstocks. You have to search for the parts but, got JD oil filters for 5 bucks and air filters for $10. When they have them, I buy 3 or 4 and use them later. I also got a $90 JD Cover for $20. Sounds like your prices are very competitive too! Enjoy the channel and the content! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for your bringing the OEM versus aftermarket pricing situation to the forefront. I guess that is just the way big business works. As for the skull art I will leave that up to you to put on your Corvette hood!!!
Anything with a John Deere sticker on it is priced 2x or more higher than it should be. Mower, edger, tractor, you name it. I don't get why people are so swayed by a brand name. Is it the infamous Snap-On fever?
I love my Deere LA115, but not enough to buy "OEM" parts for it! I discovered that the same FRAM oil filter I use on my truck ($9.00) fits Martha, My Deere, perfectly! I save on other perfectly good parts, too, but that one stands out! Thanks for the video!
@@petebusch9069 I have no problem with FRAM filters. I buy what is available at reasonable price. If I had said I use QUAKER STATE filters, somebody *ELSE* would have shat on my comment. Can't please everyone.
I keep wondering why anyone buys a John Deere in the first place? You get an overpriced piece of equipment that has a plastic hood that is broken in a couple of weeks.........
I own an older John Deere 125 automatic dual briggs and Stratton engine. I believe in using OEM parts and just bought a kit from JD for changing the oil, fuel filter, air filter, 2 qts of oil and two spark plugs. I think it was about $60. I have bought blades, concave washers for blades, nuts, pins, mulch kit, etc from the JD dealer, But after watching this video, I would like to start buying parts from you in the future. I am. going to check your online site and look for you on FB. I took my JD deck off, sanded and painted the rusted areas, put new labels on, new blades, belts, pins and it was all because of this JD deck video you put out. Thanks so much. Janet from Chicago
Thanks Bre!!! Very timely rant, (completely justified) JD Easychange is a total ripoff. Not only is it a cumulative oil change over time, but they are charging (in Canada) $90 for 1/2 quart of oil and a filter. They did sell a kit a while ago to retrofit a spin on filter, and an oil drain tube, but that's no longer available. Thanks for the tip on manufacturers!!! I'll be looking up my engine on Kohler to retrofit my JD.
You don't need the JD kit to convert from EZ Change. It's just a pipe (AM131611) and nipple (MIU13767) and of course the filter (AM125424). Amazon has a complete conversion kit with filter for $24. Kits are still available from various on-line JD parts suppliers.
Great video, thanks! Wish you’d gotten more into belts. I find Amazon is a crapshoot. Ordered deck and trans drive belts for my D130; both were described as OEM and photos showed OEM in green & yellow sleeves. Deck belt WAS really OEM and came from Hartville Hardware 👍 yay! Trans drive belt was Bait & Switch, a black rubbery no-name with the part number and no John Deere marking, no sleeve, from Global Parts 👎. With the labor that goes into changing the trans drive belt on a D130, I will NOT install a belt made of cheapest chinesium and have to do it over in a couple of months. I’m fine with non-OEM if I can count on quality.
What blew my mind was the carburetor solenoid. I believe the JD branded part was about $70 or so. When it died, I replaced it with a part from Amazon for $10-12. It has lasted longer than the factory original.
How does saving a ton of money by not buying John Deere parts turn into animal skulls during your video? I am not interested in animal skulls or horns. You should rename it and spend less time in front of the camera.
You're absolutely correct about oil, filters and belts, but do NOT get after market drag links or sector gears! They are usually junk and break/wear down easily! I speak from experience! Great video!
"Why are John Deere mowers painted green?" That is the color of money. I agree with everything you say with a slight exception. Marbain steel blades a far better than the run of the mill blades.
I've owned 3 different lawn tractors, including the one I bought new, my X320. All of these tractors have horrible seats that are always easily ripped. Mine X320 is badly torn now. I wish I knew someone who would recover the seat or someone who had a aftermarket seat with some kind of durability.
I purchase my oil filters from the John Deere dealer for the Kowasoki engine and they are around $5. That was last fall. I noticed that they are more than twice the price at the box stores. I like going to the dealer because it’s a small outfit and I think it’s important to support the small businesses. You made great points and totally agree with you.
My 2016 S240 has a Kawasaki FS600V engine, I use only Kawasaki or the John Deere oil filter on it. The Wix equivalent leaks profusely every time. I learned my lesson after I tried the 2nd one. The base is machined wrong and does not seal off, you think it is tight but you start the engine and half the oil is on the deck,belt,clutch and floor before you can shut the engine off.
@@jameslester3861 There has to be something wrong there, someone cross referenced something wrong or some other type of application issue, if the rubber seals aren't the same diameter than it's just plain the wrong filter, in the world of oil filters there's only a few seal diameters that are used, all filters are designed around those standards, matter of fact when someone designs an engine they don't design a filter for it just the same as they don't design a spark plug for it, they use what the industry already makes and is compatible with the ignition system, when they choose a filter when they design an engine they select one according to the capacity needs and select the micron size of contaminates captured by the filter medium according to expected wear, after that they'll determine if one needs an anti bleed down valve according to it's location and position and determine if they feel like it should have a bypass valve in it or not, but irregardless of what size micron medium it has in it and whether or not it will have an anti bleed down valve and bypass valve there's still only a couple of different body sizes and gasket sizes. If the diameter of the rubber gasket is different than the one that came off it's not a "machining error", it's an application error, knowing how oil filters are made and understanding manufacturing processes from having been involved in them it would be impossible for Wix to have accidentally machined the bases incorrectly, if that happened the standard size rubber seals used for the gaskets of them never would have fit on them, once again there's only a few sizes of them used for oil filters. In all the years I've been changing the oil and filters on machines I've only ever a couple of times had that problem and it was because someone behind a counter handed me the wrong filter, after the first time it happened and half the oil pumped out of the engine before I noticed it pouring out I've always checked the gaskets to be sure their diameter matches.
Wish I could find a small engine mechanic like you in my neighborhood. Always appreciate you quick to the point candor. Get it done! Thank you. My John Deere dealer will work with me but communications can be a bit poor. Price- off the charts!
I've discovered your advice to be legitimate since trying a few of the products you recommended in some past videos. Echo Red Armor 2 cycle oil as well as their grease are very good products. I learned the hard way using the dealer recommended Stihl Synthetic "trash" oil. Fortunately I allowed the cylinder and the piston to soak about 2 weeks in Sea Foam and was able to soften the carbon deposits to the point I could safely remove and restored the compression. A product I like that Forestry Supply sells is an awesome, compact chain sharpener to use in the field. I've found that it provides a very precise, sharpe chain in just a few minutes.
Bre, I thoroughly enjoyed the RANT. You weren't "over the top" like some RU-vidrs, but you got the information out to the people. Thank you AGAIN, for saving us Time Money and Frustration. Have a great week, my friend!
I have a Cub Cadet with a B&S engine in , the oil filter I get at the auto parts store, half the price of a B&S oil filter, they cross match it for me , ,
Very nice. Most people don't realize car oil filters are the same as lawn tractor oil filters, it's all about the size of the medium and the capacity of the filter being correct for the motor.
This is why all my tractors are RED. John Deere stuff has always been more expensive than anything else in the field. They did however make an excellent cotton stripper that I pulled behind my International Harvester tractor. In the 1950’s IH made all their own parts and marked them so you could tell but now everything is outsourced.
I needed to replace my worn out blades on my JD mower. I went yo Lowes and even the off brand blades were expansive, your results may vary, but I bought OEM John Deere blades from the JD dealer for about 25% less than the cheapest blades at Lowes. This was 3 or 4 years ago and things could be different now, but its worth shopping around.
I just buy Fram. I’ve used the orange, silver, and gold. Many people don’t care and have the funds for the John Deere parts, and they’d never think to cross reference. That’s who these big big stores are going after.
Some say "parts is parts". That may be true in some cases. When it comes to oil filters, two popular companies manufacture their own. Briggs and Kawasaki. The catch though is that some are assembled in other countries but with the same proprietary parts. So you might see a Briggs filter from India or China. Kawi filters may come from Japan or China. Briggs spark plugs are made by Champion. John Deere won't say where their plugs come from. While in my previous job, I learned that many brands come from the same plant/company. Just different labels. Some are the same quality, some may be lesser quality. As Bre said, don't pay for the brand name, and look outside the box. The big box stores that is. Great information.
Oil is oil Air cooled oil 6 bucks a QT I replaced the Plug and pull oil filter JD is using . and went to the 3/4 pipe nipple and a regular oil filter . the plug in filter was 65 dollars , oil change now is under 20 bucks
I've had excellent luck with eBay carburetors. I put one on a Troybuilt Husqvarna Echo and Mtd. I had to tap the hole in one but other than that it was bolt on with no adjustment to run perfectly. The trick is to make sure it's already in the US when you order.
I agree that if the tractor,mower etc is in warranty to buy your parts from the place you purchased it. All the parts I buy for my Kubota are listed under the serial number of my machine and I can get a detailed print out of my purchase history.
As far as oil filters I crossed referenced my oil filter over to a ford Motorcraft for my mower & it's a lot better filter and a lot cheaper. I cut open the Motorcraft and the filter that came on my mower & the Motorcraft is hands down far more superior.
Great tips on mower supplies. Have come across similar pricing differences over the years but more so lately. Not to mention, some parts are order only. Not too many dealers by me which is an issue. Really appreciate the information and honesty!! Thanks again and stay healthy!!! 😀
Australian version - my wife and I go to Bunnings Warehouse (Lowe's Hardware equivalent), I'm in the BBQ section, my wife takes a trolley and goes straight to the gardening department. The international language of shopping.
I would like to see a video on how you find part numbers. I always struggle to identify a part and cross reference them. Just for example. How to identify the carb on your weedeater and look up parts for it and possibly cross reference.
Lawn not quite big enough for lawn tractor but your tips on the lawn mower and weed wacker have saved me time,money, aggravation. I did one of your grins of accomplishment when I fired up my weed wacker after sitting for over half a year 😏👍
My E130 has the easy change system which would cost roughly $70.00 Cdn. I will be converting to a conventional oil change system when it comes time to change oil next spring. The parts needed for converting came to less than $30.00 from my local John Deere dealer and the oil filter will be around $7.00 Cdn. The Fram filter is around $5.00. No more $70.00 partial oil changes.
Great video! I just bought a set of Oregon blades at the local small engine place for my JD D110 (42" deck) for $15 cheaper than the JD ones at Home Depot. Best thing is they are the flat mulching blades instead of the original ones that had that curve (made it really hard to sharpen). Thanks for the videos.
Great video & confirms my purchasing plan of attack. JD “OEM” parts are just jacked up prices for much cheaper equivalent parts out there & just as available. Keep your videos coming. Ps - not sure how your Longhorn Steer skull fits in the chickanic channel, but i used to hang skulls up in my shed & den. Deer skulls too.
Awesome video mate. I was blown away at the prices for even OEM JD parts you showed in comparison to here in OZ. Oil filter, drive belt and idler/tensioner pullies, a spark plug (Koehler Eng.) and a set of blades for my L110 set me back $230 a month ago. Its almost cheaper to just pay a lawn contractor than to buy and maintain a ride on mower nowadays. Id hate to be the guys that need to take them in for servicing at our local dealer with workshop charges at around $125/hr.. I really enjoy your videos so keep them coming.
