Saxophone Repair Topic: Old-Style Conn Saxophone Octave Mechanism 

Just came back to watch this to make sure I was doing it right, thanks past Matt

I have a 1919 alto on bench today that has been chewed up pretty bad...I am so glad you posted this video, it put me on the right track in reshaping and fixing the mechanism properly. I can't thank you enough!

Yup yup! Exactly how the octave mechanism on my Pan American 64M alto (built 1931) works. Very cool explanation, and helpful even for the non-technician player. Thanks.

Always loved that time in the Conn history. Those horns are awesome.

Want to thank you for this video. Seems Conn used this same mechanism on the Pan American alto, of which I have a Continental Colonial stencil version, with the exact configuration of levers and hinges. Mine was bent from shipping, so it is nice to see how a properly working mechanism behaves.

Got a very messed up and neglected Pan American 52m Tenor (1928), pretty interesting to see how some stuff works!

Matt, First thanks for the return of a phone call regarding the issue of a wobbly microtuner on my 1937 6M. It's going off to Carlo C. for repair. I'm going through the learning curve right now of making a transition from my Yani 901 alto to the 6M. So far pretty good but one issue I have is getting accustomed to the difference in the octave key and its relatively small thumb rest (compared to the Yani) and the different shape of the octave keys between the two. I'm finding it much harder on my thumb because of the relatively small area of the Conn thumb "button" compared to the much larger Yani rest - the left thumb feels a lot more pressure with the Conn. One result of this is that I am "nicking" the edge of the 6M octave key while playing, opening the body octave pip. The thought I had was perhaps increasing spring strength on the spring which maintains pressure of the body octave pad may help. Do you have any thoughts on that? Does it sound rational? Love the 6M tone and want to master this transition but this one issue has me a bit baffled.

Thanks so much Matt. I have watched many of your videos. This one is of particular interest because I just bought a 92M Cavalier (Pan American) ((Conn ?)) that has this exact mechanism. The horn is in exceptional condition and I am going to overhaul it. Your video efforts are entertaining (breathless ranting) and extremely informtive. Thanks again.

Yes! Right there (15:25). I had lost the material in between the foot of the banana-shaped lever from the octave key and the extra (short) rod from the rocker key (New Wonder Artist 1928 "Silver/Gold bell). Hence my neck octave pad stayed open when going from second register to the first. Great to be able to fix this -hummm...more or less. ;-).. Thanks Matt!!

Great Video Matt! I've had my shop open for a bit more than a year and I have seen two New Wonder II in for repair. The first was from a school, so they didn't want to spend a lot, but the second is a sentimental horn and I'm doing a full overhaul. Great information. Thanks a BUNCH!

Had a Holton bari three pip and it was great. I have mon-keyed with this Conn style and I have been lucky and have had good results. Very nice job on the horn by the way. What a beauty.

Thanks a lot Matt for this video and all the other one! Very pro and useful.

Matt this has been very good for me, i own 2 pre 1970 Conns one of which is a 1917 Wonder Improved model, i needed some of this info when it came time to overhaul.

Hi Matt, Firstable a very very big thanks for all the usefull knowledge you share with us. I have a Conn tenor. NW S2 that I'm dealing with overhauling it. It's in very good shape and doesn't seem to have been played a lot. But, having sated that

I have a York alto that I think is a Buescher stencil. It has a very similar octave mechanism but a bit different. It's a little bit backwards compared to the Conn version, the G key arm sits on top of the body octave arm and pushes up on the neck octave arm to keep it closed. I'm not sure the year of my horn (1920's I think, it does not have a front high F key)

in alto sax, if we press which keys together with the octave key, the octave crook key does not go up?

I once saw a York tenor with 3 pips.

The Octave button is not working,,,, what can i do?

Last reppading seems poor to me.. So i 'm wondering a lot about corcks thickness and height of pad cups related and equally about the thickness needed for adjustment material. I' ve noticed you used very thin pieces of corcks on key foots. Could you help me please. Ty Matt and please go on Paul Maris France

Matt On of the Screws located at the top of My Alto Sax snaped off. Half the screww is still in the hole. This screw used to tighten the Top part of the Sax up. What shoul i do? It still works fine i just dont know what to do. As its Not Mine But the Music Club's. HELP PLEASE!

What kind of adjustment materials do you use when you need something firm or Teflon coated? I've got cork, but my Conns have some kind of paper thin black slip material that I'm trying to find a replacement for.

Matt, how exactly do you establish the thickness of the material on the feet? With cork it easy, you sand it in place, but how do you do it with the non cork material on the feet?? What's the best procedure to follow?

I am purchase by Alto saxophone c.g. conn high pitch who sale

Hi, Have Yanigasava have this type of mecanism also? //JohnnyDBergh